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Agarwood/Aloeswood/Oud/Jinko information

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
post #2 of 17
Thread Starter 
A 60 page .pdf article on the agarwood trade:
http://www.traffic.org/news/agarwood.pdf
post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
Any ideas as to what YSL is using for the agarwood note in M7? I sort of think it would not be real agarwood oil.
post #4 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcampen

Any ideas as to what YSL is using for the agarwood note in M7? I sort of think it would not be real agarwood oil.



"Although synthetic agarwood compounds are used to produce poor-quality fragrances and incense sticks, there are currently no synthetic substitutes for high-grade incense or oil."

Taken from:

http://www.fao.org/documents/show_cd...E/y5360e02.htm
post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 
Still, I have trouble believing that a mass market fragrance is using a material that is so rare and costly. True, some mass marketed perfumes may use small amounts of flower absolutes that are as costly as agarwood oil but the flower absolutes, while costly, are not nearly as rare as agarwood.

Quote:
"Although synthetic agarwood compounds are used to produce poor-quality fragrances and incense sticks, there are currently no synthetic substitutes for high-grade incense or oil."

Yes, but does that really mean that the oudh note in M7 is not synthetic. I don't know what high grade oudh oil smells like. I do really love whatever that basenote is in M7.
post #6 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcampen

Still, I have trouble believing that a mass market fragrance is using a material that is so rare and costly. True, some mass marketed perfumes may use small amounts of flower absolutes that are as costly as agarwood oil but the flower absolutes, while costly, are not nearly as rare as agarwood.

Quote:
"Although synthetic agarwood compounds are used to produce poor-quality fragrances and incense sticks, there are currently no synthetic substitutes for high-grade incense or oil."

Yes, but does that really mean that the oudh note in M7 is not synthetic. I don't know what high grade oudh oil smells like. I do really love whatever that basenote is in M7.


dcampen,

I would have to say that I actually agree with you on all counts. I don't know if you noticed but here's the contact information of the guy who wrote the article:


For more information, please contact:
A.Z.M. Manzoor Rashid, Assistant Professor and M. Qumruzzaman Chowdhury, Lecturer, Department of Forestry, Shahjalal University of Science and Technology, Sylhet-3114, Bangladesh.
E-mail: pollen_for@hotmail.com


If you decide to email him, I sure would be interested if he could tell you definitively that YSL or Guerlain for that matter (in *Habit Rouge EDP*) doesn't use synthetic agarwood.

Have you tried *M7 Fresh*. The agarwood in it is even less harshly medicinal and overwhelming than in the original?

Regards,

scentemental
post #7 of 17
Sorry. Accidental double post.
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Have you tried *M7 Fresh*. The agarwood in it is even less harshly medicinal and overwhelming than in the original?

Sounds lovely, I will have to give it a try. Yes, when I first tried M7 it reminded me of the flavouring in a horrid tasting liquid antibiotic medicine I had to take once when I was very young.

I think the professor's statement -"there are currently no synthetic substitutes for high-grade incense or oil." - leaves considerable wiggle room. It is easy to believe that there are oudh connosieurs who could recognize any synthetic and find it inferior thus supporting the professor's assertion but that would not mean that synthetic materials would not suffice in most other applications. I will have to re-read the section in Emperor of Scent where Turin goes on a search for genuine oudh in shops in India.
post #9 of 17
Thread Starter 
Here is what seems to be an artificial oud said to be from Firmenich:
http://www.perfumersworld.com/prod_s...code_no=Ww7495
post #10 of 17
Thread Starter 
Here is someone selling an agarwood plantation in Thailand. Check out the photos of the trees and production techniques.
http://www.agarwoodsource.com/
post #11 of 17
i have done buisness with this website and had good results for agarwood oil and agarwood chips for burning www.qanaat.netfirms.com unfortunatly the purity cannot be garunteed but the wood for sure was authentic and oil is very nice and extremly strong. they have many quality and many prices from $30 to $100 for 3 grams. so far i have tried 3 differtent qualities and they are worth the money in my opinion. i have a friend who used magnifincense on ebay and he was happy with thier quality. both of these companies are easy to get a hold of and will answer any questions you have. i would not recomend eden botanicals or liberty natural for there qualities are not worth the money as well there agarwood oils do not fit the classic agarwood smell that is well know in the middle east.
post #12 of 17
Hi,
If anyone travels to India or Middle East they can get hold of good quality agarwood from Ajmals. They are the biggest producer of oudh in india. Be careful as there many con artist out there. Couple of methods used is painting the agarwood and also injecting the agarwood with oil so it is heavy. As you probably know that agarwood is heavier than normal wood so it sinks in water.

I can't get hold of it in England because it is a endangered species, and becoming rare. My grandfather was in the perfume trade in India before he sold it and came to England and went into the restaurant business. My mum tell me they used to have massive cases full of the stuff in there house in india, as it came from Assam before. But back then it had very little value, if we had it now we would be mega rich. Anyway that is the way things go.

thanks
shah
post #13 of 17
Hello, I noticed this post about Aloeswood and also noticed someone mentioned www.qanaat.netfirms.com. I can vouch for these guys out of Singapore as top notch with honest personel especially Ham Firl who i do stay in contact with about his stock and his oils. If you happen to want information about any of his Aloeswood oils you can simply email him and he will send you list of what he has in stock and i must say he does have quite a selection of the authentic, pure aloeswood oil from various regions it is collected. They mostly export to the middle east arab perfume houses. From my experience with their aloeswood oils they are all top notch and authentic however they all do smell diffrent according to the region and grades. I also have purchased aloeswood oil from Ajmal perfumes and there quite nice although i am of the assumption they mostly use the top notch aloeswood oils and present them in really nice packages for reselling as there line of perfumes which are diffrent in price from average to highly expensive, once again according to the oil's age and grade. With Ham Firl who is the main dealer I have dealt with from Qanaat.netfirms.com the oils I really like is the Super Super grades from ASSAM or Cambodia which to me are almost identical smelling to Ajmal's single note agarwood perfumes. As far as M7 is concerned, i do happen to own and use this fragrance but i don't really classify this as true aloeswood as i think the agarwood compound in it is more a fixative base to bring out the vetiver and amber accord in that drydown of m7. If M7 were to have the true scent of a pure single note agarwood/aloeswood then i do not beleive western noses would really get it or even like it as they do now. To me M7 and Aloeswood scents are totally two diffrent things.
post #14 of 17
There are some artificial agarwood oils Givaudan has one named Black Agar:
http://ingredients.givaudan.com/appl...7?OpenDocument

Jenny the hobbyperfumer
post #15 of 17
Here is a link to some more info on agarwood from a Japanese Incense point of view.

http://www.oller.net
post #16 of 17
Hi DCampen,
do you have another link with the same info?

Agarwoodsource.com has vanished.

cheers

Agar
post #17 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcampen

Still, I have trouble believing that a mass market fragrance is using a material that is so rare and costly. True, some mass marketed perfumes may use small amounts of flower absolutes that are as costly as agarwood oil but the flower absolutes, while costly, are not nearly as rare as agarwood.


Yes, but does that really mean that the oudh note in M7 is not synthetic. I don't know what high grade oudh oil smells like. I do really love whatever that basenote is in M7.

you can be sure no real agarwood oil is used in any western perfume on the market. al those agarw. smelling fragrances owe their existance to the fact that finally good substitutes are available to the industry. by the way, none of them is 100% synthetic! they are rather compounded specialities of all qualities. in my opinion the best, or the one that resembles most the highest quality of the real thing is clearly firmenich's oud base. with no doubt this is the agarwood material that went into gucci's envy!
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