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Moving in with Frédéric Malle's Noir Epices...

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
I am currently discovering Noir Epices by Michel Roudnitska for Editions de Parfum Frédéric Malle, and the least I can say is that I am amazed by that fragrance. I have a few questions about it though, addressed to those who wear it on a regular basis :

- Would you agree it is a little bit reminiscent of older feminine Guerlain fragrances (such as the beautiful Mitsouko and Vol de Nuit), but in a terrific modern way ?

- Under what circumstances do you like to wear it ?

- How do you find it different from other scents you are used to wearing ?...

All remarks welcome !
post #2 of 6
This is the first fragrance I 'tested' at the Malle boutique in Paris ( Rue de Grenelle ). Each time I wear it, it brings me back to that place. The impact of this scent is immediate and uncompromising. The top citrusy-orange note is evident but then it is very well balanced with the rose and geranium. It''s the spices in the middle notes that quickly reveals itself and hangs on to the drydown of patchouli, and sandalwood. I am wearing it today ( in 85 degrees ) heat and I've already received several compliments. Previously, I thought this would be an ideal 'winter' or cold weather fragrance, but I"m enjoying it in warmer months. I think it really brings out the fantastic composition.

Not sure if it reminds me of Guerlain's Mitsouko. Noir Epices does not remind me of 'cyphere' scents evident in the Guerlain classic.

Today is actually the first time I am wearing it in the daytime on a hot day. It will not be my last. I'm really getting used to this fragrance. I 'tested' Noir Epices on my left arm and Idole de Lubin on my right arm last night. Although there are similarities, Idole reveals that rummy sweetness that Noir Epices does not have. They are similar, but different enough for me to warrant the purchase. I"m glad you started out this thread because this is simply a good fragrance to have in everyone's wardrobe:-) I agree, it's truly an amazing fragrance. Catherine Deneuve knows a good scent, for sure. Yet I find this masculine enough.
post #3 of 6
I may not be able to fully answer your questions relating to Noir Epices, but will be glad to tell how I got into the habit of wearing it. From the whole edition I had considered four colognes, perfumes in my view. I kind of like difficult, but otherwise pleasing scents, and that usually starts with a shock! NE was number 4 and very much like not for me at the start of it! The way I was introduced to the edition, it never occured to me that Musk Ravageur, my No.1 of those and NE could be considered anything but masculine, but obviously they are. I grew out of MR in a period of twelve months and began liking Noir Epices in that process more and more. If you compare just these two, I find NE easier in the summer, and more versatile than MR which is more suited for the special evening and night. MR is for the heart and soul, NE inspires your mind, another homme sage, so to speak. I have not found a specific occasion for NE. It gives me strength and accompanies doing buisiness sometimes (use very discretely, just noticebale maybe for yourself). It is wonderful for a wedding, I would imagine, but I did not attend any recently. And in between: anything is possible, I would think. Apply more or less of it, as you feel fit. It has obviously good sillage too.

Whenever metallic notes are discussed, I first think of NE, not just in its top notes! 'Bright and shiny', I would offer in addition to Manderleys immediate & uncompromising. The name, I feel, is a bit misleading. I find NE neither dark, nor very spicy. But maybe Villoresi has irrevocably shaped my ideas of spice and herbs. Mitsouko? Thats so rich in fruit and flowers (I detect more than have been published), that the overall impression is completely different, I think. Its red velvet seductive quality is close to that of MR. NE is maybe sexy, not very erotic though. I love it for its lack of sweetness. But the devil lures on the bottom of the bottle, be assured! A city guy, alone in a coffee shop, under Edzard Harper neon light - that's NE for me!
post #4 of 6
NE took a wearing or two for me to really fall for it. Now, it's possibly my favorite from the amazing Malle collection. I have come to love the lack of sweetness (which seems to be available in abundance everywhere else). While the topnotes somehow remind me of a metal fist (don't ask - I can't explain where that one's coming from), as it dries down I find it softening greatly. When I first started trying it out, I thought it couldn't be anything but masculine. Now, I can see how the right woman could wear NE with great success. I agree with Narcus - I don't find this dark, or all that spicy - at least in the way I have come to think of spice. When I wear it, I feel more creative, edgier, maybe even a bit weird.

I wear it any time I feel like it. It seems to smell very different on cold versus warm days, where the warm weather brings out certain notes that the cold weather stifles. I'm not sure which way I like it better. I recently took a chance and wore it on a flight. I didn't feel at all uncomfortable with it on, and didn't seem to be getting any evil stares or comments about it. In contrast, I am sure that if I had worn MR, I would have felt uncomfortable. I think MR's sillage is much stronger. For this reason, I too find NE more versatile than MR, which I feel I can only wear when I go out at night and have to compete with other frags and cigarette smoke. NE, I can wear any time.
post #5 of 6
I tested Noir Epices for the first time a week ago. It struck me as something very special. It manages to be spicy and like velvet at the same time. Sort of classy and refined, but without being boring and stuffy. And not a clone of anything else I've tried.
post #6 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thank you guys for your precise remarks !
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