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In Praise of Overlooked Scents

post #1 of 25
9/12/05 at 9:31pm
Thread Starter 
There are two things in this hobby that bring me great joy--tracking down a rare/discontinued bottle, and falling in love with fragrances that are not much discussed here.

I've long touted my "gang of three" overlooked scents: Open, Carven PH and Worth PH. Lately I've seen more and more posts about Carven, which is great news. This is a great smelling scent at an inexpensive price that should be in every frag lover's wardrobe. IMO.

Since discovering those three, I have found Iceberg Twice (I'm telling you guys, it's amazing) and Fendi Life Essence. Every time the Fendi is mentioned, the usual comments go like this..."it's ok, but there are better woods out there..." but not to me! This one is far from the pure cedar of say, Higher, or the pencil shavings associated with Gucci PH. It's woodsy but it also has a delectable sweet note(s) that don't make those around you think you just harvested the back 40.

Now my two new discoveries....Balencegia PH and Smalto. Balencegia (thanks Marlen!) is warm, sweet, honeyish but still masculine. It reminds me SOMEWHAT (please don't start) of orientals like Ho Hang/Ho Hang Club/Lapidus PH. I see in the directory that it's discontinued, so I don't know if it's hard to find, but it's worth the effort. Smalto (just "Smalto," as there are several) is a rich oriental that smells great, has good longetivity and is quite unique, with some very different notes in it. If I had to compare it to anything, I would say Xeyrus, but I think it's far better.

Finally two more. Chaleur d'Animale pour Homme. If they were trying to create a sexy fragrance, they succeeded. Finally, "R" by Revillon. Great scent and highly unusual, but longetivity is only average.

Any comments on these? And what's your favorite ignored gem? This thread's been done before, but it's still fun.
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post #2 of 25
9/12/05 at 10:36pm
I'm sorry that I can't commented on the ones above beacause I've never smelt them before, but I can tell you my favorite ignored gem. It probably would have to be Versus Uomo(1991) by Versace. To me this is probably the best Versace fragrance out there and far better then Dreamer. A true pity it's no longer made but at least in my lifetime there still be bottles to be bought. It doesn't really smell that great, but for some reason I just love it. It kind of has this dark mysterious allure to it that you just can't get enough of and this very addictive. I would describe it as being very dark yet somewhat fresh at the same time due to the citrus note. Its a very rebellious scent for the youngster and ideal of the outcast who lurks in the shadows and secertly hates society. I think it was a true materpiece in perfume history, but I know there be people how would disagree. I think one of the problems with it was that smelt way ahead of this time. I have a small sample vial of this stuff, but I can't wait to get the full bottle soon.
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post #3 of 25
9/12/05 at 11:38pm
Over the years, I've consistently been one of the few to praise Fendi Life Essence here. Only Gucci Pour Homme seems woodier to me. I don't know that it's overlooked though, most people seem to have looked at it, and rejected it for reasons I can't quite fathom.

The one scent that I feel is definitely overlooked is Versace Green Jeans. I was not a fan of it, and thought it smelled pretty average on paper. So I ignored it for years. But when I finally wore it, I thought it was something special.
Renato
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post #4 of 25
9/13/05 at 12:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nsamadi

I'm sorry that I can't commented on the ones above beacause I've never smelt them before, but I can tell you my favorite ignored gem. It probably would have to be Versus Uomo(1991) by Versace. To me this is probably the best Versace fragrance out there and far better then Dreamer. A true pity it's no longer made but at least in my lifetime there still be bottles to be bought. It doesn't really smell that great, but for some reason I just love it. It kind of has this dark mysterious allure to it that you just can't get enough of and this very addictive. I would describe it as being very dark yet somewhat fresh at the same time due to the citrus note. Its a very rebellious scent for the youngster and ideal of the outcast who lurks in the shadows and secertly hates society. I think it was a true materpiece in perfume history, but I know there be people how would disagree. I think one of the problems with it was that smelt way ahead of this time. I have a small sample vial of this stuff, but I can't wait to get the full bottle soon.


Wow, this is also one that will be in my top 5 forever! I bought one bottle around 1995 and it's still half-full. And not because I don't like it but because I know it'll be a black day when I use the last of this juice :-(
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post #5 of 25
9/13/05 at 12:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renato

Over the years, I've consistently been one of the few to praise Fendi Life Essence here. Only Gucci Pour Homme seems woodier to me. I don't know that it's overlooked though, most people seem to have looked at it, and rejected it for reasons I can't quite fathom.

The one scent that I feel is definitely overlooked is Versace Green Jeans. I was not a fan of it, and thought it smelled pretty average on paper. So I ignored it for years. But when I finally wore it, I thought it was something special.
Renato

I think someone also compared Life Essence to Oscar for Men, while similar, Life Essence is very simplified compared to Oscar, and that is perhaps the reason why people tend to just walk on by with this frag. It's rather linear also, so I guess it falls in the same style as Jardin sur Le Nil--as Life essence is to wood, Le Nil is to citrus. It also came out during a time when people were in an "active" frame of mind and light, sporty and aquatic was in full force.

As for Green Jeans, it took me aback, it was VERY Green, and when it first came out, it was quite a hard thing to understand for me. I thought it was a vulgar scent, like someone taking a fresh heap of cut grass and smearing it to my face. All perhaps because I put too much, you definitely leave a trail with this one. I think they did it right when they came out with Jeans Couture, young, fresh, green, and very refined compared to Green Jeans.
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post #6 of 25
9/13/05 at 12:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by iMaverick

[quote author=Renato link=1126585878/0#2 date=1126593511]Over the years, I've consistently been one of the few to praise Fendi Life Essence here. Only Gucci Pour Homme seems woodier to me. I don't know that it's overlooked though, most people seem to have looked at it, and rejected it for reasons I can't quite fathom.

The one scent that I feel is definitely overlooked is Versace Green Jeans. I was not a fan of it, and thought it smelled pretty average on paper. So I ignored it for years. But when I finally wore it, I thought it was something special.
Renato

I think someone also compared Life Essence to Oscar for Men, while similar, Life Essence is very simplified compared to Oscar, and that is perhaps the reason why people tend to just walk on by with this frag. Â*It's rather linear also, so I guess it falls in the same style as Jardin sur Le Nil--as Life essence is to wood, Le Nil is to citrus. Â*It also came out during a time when people were in an "active" frame of mind and light, sporty and aquatic was in full force.

[/quote]

Oscar for Men is a peppery scent that has nothing in common with Life Essence. Perhaps you mean Oscar Pour Lui - which I've only smelled once, but from memory was pretty woody - but I didn't like it all that much.
Renato
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post #7 of 25
9/13/05 at 3:11am
As far as overlooked scents go, I think Alfred Sung Paradise is a fantastic summer fragrance. Green, light, original, relaxing, long-lasting. Top: papaya, melon, ginger, jasmine. Heart: lavender, rose, other florals with a kick. Heart: patchouli, wood, musk.
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post #8 of 25
9/13/05 at 5:38am
Romeo Gigli Uomo & Sud Est are both overlooked scents, I regard them both as work of arts!

I'm sure misterbowles has got my back?
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post #9 of 25
9/13/05 at 6:49am
I'll second Carven Homme. This one seems to be building a following, but I still think it qualifies as overlooked. A very rich oriental, but very wearable and not overly sweet or cloying; I put it at the same level as Heritage or Egoiste, and above Gucci Envy.

I have a sample of Open (thanks Ballardbeau), but haven't formed more than a positive initial impression yet.

Most of the fragrances in my collection, I learned about from Basenotes, so they've all received at least some positive attention here.

--Steve
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post #10 of 25
9/13/05 at 7:00am
Two of my favourites are Moustache by Rochas (1949) a rather rustic aromatic scent that contains somewhat clashing notes of rare fruits and pine. Hardly ever mentioned here.

Also Lancome Balafre (1967) which is only now available from the Lancome Institute. It is a warm woody, leathery fragrance which, like Moustache takes some getting used to.

I also love Carven Homme and am thankful I stumbled upon it in a little out-of-the-way shop as you never see it here in England.

Trot
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post #11 of 25
9/13/05 at 8:16am
Is the "Smalto" to which you refer the one that comes in the purple marbled box and has a dark opaque bottle? If so, it was basically my signature scent back in the late 80's-early 90's.

I recently bought another bottle, but it smells a bit different than I remember it. More earthy and with a sourish note. Maybe it's because the frag was discontinued years ago and it's been sitting around, or perhaps I just remember it differently. In either event, it's a bit disappointing.

- Brad
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post #12 of 25
9/13/05 at 8:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ballardbeau

Chaleur d'Animale pour Homme. If they were trying to create a sexy fragrance, they succeeded.

Chaleur was one of the first scents I bought when I started to really investigate the world of fragrances. I picked it up fairly cheaply at a Perfumania five or six years ago. It has a great green leaf accord opening, which is what caught my attention. It dries down like a sweeter oriental. As I wore it more, though, I found the drydown increasingly powdery and less interesting. I ended up swapping it. Still, it's a good scent, and is pretty inexpensive. The packaging and name is a bit tacky, though.

Cheers!
Bob
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post #13 of 25
9/13/05 at 9:00am
Thread Starter 
[quote author=Renato link=1126585878/0#2 date=1126593511]Over the years, I've consistently been one of the few to praise Fendi Life Essence here. Only Gucci Pour Homme seems woodier to me. I don't know that it's overlooked though, most people seem to have looked at it, and rejected it for reasons I can't quite fathom.

YAY!! Another fan of Life Essence! And I thought I was alone!

I too am baffled why this one isn't recognized for the really terrific scent it is. I like Envy but I prefer Life Essence. Gucci can be overpowering and somewhat stifling--one too many squirts and you've crossed the line between being great smelling and being the cologne guy. For me it is a winter scent only.

LE is far more versatile. It is equally at home on a night on the town or waxing your car on a Saturday afternoon.
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post #14 of 25
9/13/05 at 9:23am
Ballardbeau, are you sure you mean Dior Higher when you refer to "pure cedar" in your post? Did you mean Gucci Rush?

If the Smalto you're talking about is the one in the flat, oval bottle, I love that stuff. It's on my swap list, but I'm actually glad no one has taken it yet. I may just decide to keep it. It's got a smooth masculine scent that reminds me a lot of Havana Reserva.

Fendi Life Essence reminded me of Essenza di Zegna's distant cousin. I need to revisit this one. I gave my bottle away to my uncle.

Other overlooked gems? I nominate Chaumet Homme, Calvin, Nicole Miller, and Rochas Lui.
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post #15 of 25
9/13/05 at 9:57am
Quote:
Balencegia (thanks Marlen!) is warm, sweet, honeyish but still masculine. It reminds me SOMEWHAT (please don't start) of orientals like Ho Hang/Ho Hang Club/Lapidus PH. I see in the directory that it's discontinued, so I don't know if it's hard to find, but it's worth the effort.

I really like Lapidus PH and I was just recently looking for Ballenciaga PH but the Ballenciaga seems to be only available in miniatures these days.

I was so unimpressed with the recent version of Carven Vetiver that I had not been considering any other Carven's but the Carven Homme does seem interesting.
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post #16 of 25
9/13/05 at 11:56am
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I may have gotten Higher and Rush confused. I remember one being very wody/cedary.

I know the Smalto you guys mentioned, but the one I'm talkng about is just called "Smalto." The Directory has a picture and a description. It is spicy, masculine quite unique with good longetivity; most definitely worth
checking out.

The one in the small, oval, dark bottle is a winnder also. I wore it for years. Didn't replace it, but have really good memories of it.
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post #17 of 25
9/13/05 at 1:06pm
Three Overlooked Scents

Eucris - Geo F Trumper
Cafe pour Homme - Cofinlux (an extremely inexpensive favorite)
Tabac - Mauer & Wirtz (anything from this house)

Griff
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post #18 of 25
9/13/05 at 1:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renato

[quote author=iMaverick link=1126585878/0#4 date=1126595070][quote author=Renato link=1126585878/0#2 date=1126593511]Over the years, I've consistently been one of the few to praise Fendi Life Essence here. Only Gucci Pour Homme seems woodier to me. I don't know that it's overlooked though, most people seem to have looked at it, and rejected it for reasons I can't quite fathom.

The one scent that I feel is definitely overlooked is Versace Green Jeans. I was not a fan of it, and thought it smelled pretty average on paper. So I ignored it for years. But when I finally wore it, I thought it was something special.
Renato

I think someone also compared Life Essence to Oscar for Men, while similar, Life Essence is very simplified compared to Oscar, and that is perhaps the reason why people tend to just walk on by with this frag. It's rather linear also, so I guess it falls in the same style as Jardin sur Le Nil--as Life essence is to wood, Le Nil is to citrus. It also came out during a time when people were in an "active" frame of mind and light, sporty and aquatic was in full force.

[/quote]

Oscar for Men is a peppery scent that has nothing in common with Life Essence. Perhaps you mean Oscar Pour Lui - which I've only smelled once, but from memory was pretty woody - but I didn't like it all that much.
Renato[/quote]
No, it's not Pour Lui, it was one of the first "designer" scents I've tried and used, albeit I might have been too young when I used it, I was just saying that someone compared the two frags being similar. However, I can agree what they smell when the two come in mind...despite Oscar's peppery, spicy nature, there is a definite vein of wood and quite possibly vetiver that also seems evident in Life Essence. That's where they make the connection. I only meant on touching the simple, rather linear composition of Life Essence in comparison to the more complex nature of Oscar and their focus on the wood note.
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post #19 of 25
9/13/05 at 1:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renato

Over the years, I've consistently been one of the few to praise Fendi Life Essence here. Only Gucci Pour Homme seems woodier to me. I don't know that it's overlooked though, most people seem to have looked at it, and rejected it for reasons I can't quite fathom.

The one scent that I feel is definitely overlooked is Versace Green Jeans. I was not a fan of it, and thought it smelled pretty average on paper. So I ignored it for years. But when I finally wore it, I thought it was something special.
Renato

I used to love fendi life essence and have gotten many compliments on it. Then, it started getting too sweet for my tastes and the mall where I got it no longer carried it.
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post #20 of 25
9/13/05 at 1:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trotsky

Two of my favourites are Moustache by Rochas (1949) a rather rustic aromatic scent that contains somewhat clashing notes of rare fruits and pine. Â*Hardly ever mentioned here.

Also Lancome Balafre (1967) which is only now available from the Lancome Institute. Â*It is a warm woody, leathery fragrance which, like Moustache takes some getting used to.

I also love Carven Homme and am thankful I stumbled upon it in a little out-of-the-way shop as you never see it here in England.

Trot

Yes balafre what a beautifull scent very raw style compared to our 2005 tommy boy/tommy girl !!!

laurent
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post #21 of 25
11/9/05 at 2:43pm
Essence of Jerusalem. Completely unprecedented and no one even knows about it.
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post #22 of 25
11/9/05 at 3:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcampen

Quote:
Balencegia (thanks Marlen!) is warm, sweet, honeyish but still masculine. It reminds me SOMEWHAT (please don't start) of orientals like Ho Hang/Ho Hang Club/Lapidus PH. I see in the directory that it's discontinued, so I don't know if it's hard to find, but it's worth the effort.

I really like Lapidus PH and I was just recently looking for Ballenciaga PH but the Ballenciaga seems to be only available in miniatures these days.

Balenciaga was a bitch to track down. A few months ago I finally found a store that had one bottle left. It had no box and I still paid $95 for it. It's a nice scent but I wish it had an atomizer. I believe it was only made in splash bottles.
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post #23 of 25
11/9/05 at 4:44pm
I'm new at this, but I think a fragrance that is overlooked here in this forum is Givenchy Blue label. Â*I get quite a few compliments with it, but I don't see it mentioned here very often. Â*Also, Zirh is nice, but rarely mentioned. Â*I wonder why???
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post #24 of 25
11/9/05 at 5:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by teflondog

Balenciaga was a bitch to track down. A few months ago I finally found a store that had one bottle left. It had no box and I still paid $95 for it. It's a nice scent but I wish it had an atomizer. I believe it was only made in splash bottles.


I can confirm it was also available in spray bottles. I used to have one. teflondog, you paid a pretty good price for what is a very rare fragrance.

I love it, and I wish I could find a bottle for a decent price. I might just bite the bullet and buy one for around what you paid. It's that good.

/me
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post #25 of 25
11/9/05 at 8:47pm
yeah I feel ya on the smalto,long time favorite line
shhhhh it's a secret,lol,my kingdom for a bottle of
molto smalto,like to try that one.
I have been really intrigued about life essence,
compared to issey miyake?tried on the miyake
smelled like a furniture polish,did a houdini after an
hour,is life essence better?
have to give the carven a try too.
peace
R-
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