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Rochas' Brave New World
Rochas is currently on the high road to success. Since the beginning of the autumn season, Rochas has been inundating the marketplace with new entries. First there was Energy Pure, the new skin care line, then came the relaunch of the 7 carresses of Femme bath and body range. Then on 17 October came the official opening of the Marcel Rochas for Men boutique on the Avenue George V in Paris. This shop is like no other: it concerns itself with absolutely everything for men -- not only clothes, but books, furniture and office accessories. What you find there is a total masculine identity with the image and the class of the celebrated couturier...but the main event to accompany the opening was the launch of Globe, Rochas' new fragrance for men.
A great deal of work was undertaken by the Rochas team to conceive the project: with Anne Boutigny at the head, Jean Claude Ellena of Givaudan to conceive the fragrance and Pochet to create the flacon (which was designed by Rochas). It took one year to bring all the vital elements together and when they did, they launched the fragrance without the usual Press extravaganza.
The Globe man, as defined by Rochas, is a warm man who loves life, is interested in everything and looks at life from a "simultaneously poetic, deep and aware point of view". To reinforce this image, the Rochas team recreated his universe by transforming one of its offices on the avenue Francois 1er into an apartment designed specifically for the Globe man. The luxurious and warm decor portrayed a warm and generous man. A mappamondi hung on the wall along with a large mural of the female shape, emphasizing its rounded curves. Everything there echoed the image of "round and global": a crystal ball, a set of petanque boules, a bowl of fruit, a globe.
The Globe fragrance is just as original. Rochas has used new and forgotten essences to create the fragrance such as bolto, a medicinal plant, which lends a certain freshness to the top note, along with mandarin and galbanum. Absinthe and mate highlight the heart notes accompanied by basil, rose and geranium. There is a new note in the base notes too--rhubarb--which has never been used before. It is blended with amber, vetiver and incense.
The bottle is another innovation. It is spherical and its continents and lines of longitude and latitude are etched onto the frosted glass. The word Globe does not appear on the bottle, only the name Rochas (and in very small letters). The Globe range comprises: metal & glass 100ml flacon, FF310 and glass 100ml flacon, FF155.
The same subtle discretion is used in the advertising campaign (by the Succes Slad agency) where only a man's hand holding a flacon of Globe is shown.
There is no doubt that the launch of Globe is a true challenge for Rochas. The company is counting on the new fragrance to take it back into a leading position in the international men's fragrance market, 20 years after the celebrated launch of Moustache in 1949. It is true that Rochas introduced Macassar in 1979, but Rochas now judges this fragrance as "too modern for its time". Currently men's fragrance only accounts for 3 per cent of Rochas' total turnover--a bias which Laurent Normand, managing director, is hoping to correct. To achieve an estimated 15 per cent turnover objective in men's fragrance, Rochas has invested more than FF20 million in Globe with a media budget of FF10 million. Globe is forecast to make FF25 million over the next two months and to achieve a 1991 total turnover statistic of FF35 million.
Globe rolled out primarily in 1,800 outlets throughout France and Belgium. Other European market introductions will follow in 1991.