Another men's chypre that I'm wild about -- if not overapplied. Sprayed on the chest, under shirt or sweater, and lightly at each wrist, it's breathtaking, I think -- a very inviting, snuggly, scent. Here are some comments gleaned from prior threads:
Like an old friend back in the fold. -- Yvan, 1/21/2005
Going down the street in a leather jacket, kicking fallen leaves in autumn chill, right, that's Grey Flannel to me. -- Russlan, 7/23/2004
I don't think I would wear it unless I was going out on a date with an ugly girl who I never wanted to see again. -- Cookesoul, 1/12/2005
I find it rather unique and consider it best suited for rainy days. -- Narcus, 6/29/2005
That scent is almost unique!!! -- Moonfish, 8/5/2005
This baby is a winner. -- DustB, 8/22/2005
And then there's The Odor's comprehensive review of it:
Now the Tribute.
17.03.04 (Wednesday)
SOTD: Grey Flannel, Geoffrey Beene, 1976 (it is the same year FiFi Award winner).
"Gender marketed" of the fragrance: male
THE ITEM INFO
Concentration: Eau de Toilette
Form/package: 120ml (4.0 fl.oz.) retail bottle, spray.
Where purchased: retail, small local fragrance shop in Moscow, Russia.
Price paid: $17.3
THE SMELL
The scent starts out with transparent, fresh, cold and sharp citrus-flowery-green accord. The cold green is provided by galbanum, I think. Citrus notes are very lively and sparkling but they move a bit "backwards" after a 5-10 minutes after the application.
Heart note brings out a variety of restrained flowery notes with some tart undertone. I'm not that erudite about flowers but these also have the green quality, and I can feel a clean watery violet note in there, along with bitter undertone of mimosa. The heart note accord is more warm and welcoming than the top one. Has some "metallic" undertone to it.
The base note is even warm and reveals green mossy and warm woody undertones. Some light sweetness appears no earlier that almost on the fadeout.
The whole scent character is kinda "floral chypre" (not sure if there is such a category). It is something behind floral woody scents, like, say, Fahrenheit, and regular chypres (that seem sharp-citrus at first and then soften to mossy, woody and sweet tones).
As for "linearity", I can say that the scent has a perfect green floral "line" that goes its way from icy cold to warm-hearted and understanding. I mean the scent does change while you're wearing it, but that change is around some steady "core".
THE FEEL
My overall feel of the scent is very formal and restrained, kinda out-of-body, always keeping some distance. Has some etiquette to it. It seems like it is freezing the wearer at first but then softens and warms up gradually. Though, on some shiny warm day of spring it could be nice and cozy scent. Diplomatic to the last stitch of the suit and a shoe-shine.
THE SIMILARITY
I don't know for sure but top accord of the scent reminds me of Eau de Campagne Sisley and somewhat of Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte. No other similarities come to mind. Can't say it by myself, but I also heard that it's somewhat similar to Chanel Cristalle.
THE IMAGE
It is like a time-compressed seasons change. At first, you were walking in the winter forest on a frosty day towards its border. In half an hour, when you stopped on the border, the whole snow have Êmelted away, trees have started to bud and birds have been singing around there. Later, when you went to the field, the sun have been shining brightly onto the field covered with spring flowers, and a warm comfortable and pleasant scent was rising from the heated ground. The embodiment of grey and green.
THE USE
Personal experience with the scent: worn about 15ml (0.5 fl.oz.)
Average duration: 10-12 hrs
The scent fits good the colder season and some days of spring and fall. Would be excessively sharp for higher temps of summertime.
I prefer to wear this to the office, it's a winner of my can't-go-wrong scents, really. Sometimes it feels good to me with a casual wear, there's some romantic about it too (much deeper inside).
I'd advise to apply it gently 'cause greater amounts can cause one a headache hands down.
I had headaches of it constantly for the first 10 wears (even out of 1-2 spritzes). Then I put it aside for some time, and after a two or three months I sampled it again and started to like it a lot. Now I wear 4 spritzes that usually are applied directly on skin.
THE MULTIGENDER CAPABILITY
I think it's quite wearable for women 'cause mainly the scent is composed of floral notes. Heard some women wear it successfully and with great pleasure. I'd love to smell Grey Flannel on a woman.
THE VERDICT
In spite of its "core" it is quite a complex scent. Now came the Spring and I hope Grey Flannel would show some new undertones to me. I love it so much!
I think it's a gentleman's must-have. It's a Bvlgari PH's grandfather, much more knowledgeable and wise, very hale and hearty, still can pick up a girl.
Pros: one of the best men's florals; you can't go wrong with that (if applied moderately).
Cons: quite sharp and strong at first; needs some "getting-used-to" period.
THE PACKAGE
The remarkable one! It is one of the most elegant packages I ever seen with fragrances - simple dark green bottle with a black cap and a label in some old style. It is packed in a dark grey bag of soft flannel with a nice lace.
------ made with Comprehensive Fragrance Review Pattern ------------
Regards, Odor.
