MY REVIEW OF CARNAL FLOWER
The latest perfume in the Frederic Malle illustrious stable and what a glorious one this one is!
The title of it alludes to the fact that tuberoses are considered the flowers of "spiritual ruin" and at one point in time were actually thought to provoce an instant orgasm to the fair maidens who might smell them!! Imagine the prudish customs of yesterdays challenged by that thought.....
Conceived by Dominique Ropion , creator of the wonderful Ysatis , the horrifically flamboyant and attention-grabbing - in my humble opinion- Amarige and the controversial Fleur de cassie (no mean feat , that one , yet most people hate it ) it naturally presented an olfactory challenge as tuberose is one of those smells that can be heavenly or hellish , no in-betweens : the orchestration and interpretation is all that matters. A flair for the intense on the recipients' part is also mandatory , it would seem....
Fracas with its sombre and lush contradicting qualities is edged upon the two extremes. Blonde by Versace is its poorer , aspiring imitator with a flamboyant style that is very italian and quite pleasant in calculated moderation. SL 's Tubereuse Criminelle presents a peculiar problem : one has to wait for the crucial first 15 minutes , when the demonic camphor and burnt rubber note subsides , giving reign to the glorious creaminess and softness of the flower. Caron's Tubereuse is very radiant , yet perfume-y although lighter and not suited to today's sensibilities , I find. Carolina Herrera is a bit too operatic , being so much infused with another bombshell : jasmine.
Studying the odor of the real living blossom that is apparently everywhere in California , this quintessentially french company has managed to capture the air of a tropical garden at dusk , full of the breeze and the richness of the dangerously seductive blossoms. Malle himself was encouraging Ropion to go the extra mile , per their official info. Hence the addition of a coconut note( of which I am happily oblivious , as it conjures up vulgar images to my mind because of its overuse in commercialised products ) and salicylates with musk , which add a warm and inviting quality. The camphor note does not make a grand appearence like in Tubereuse Criminelle according to my nose : the composition is therefore less striking , less thought-provoking , but more wearable as a result. Not a jarring note in sight.
The development of the perfume is smooth , without great changes throughout its drydown. The initial opulence remains intact while after some minutes a slightly bitter-sweet , rubbery quality ascends to the surface. It should be advised not to overdo the application because of this element. As it weaves its magic though , it never becomes cloying. The achievement of this has very much impressed me and made me seriously contemplating of purchasing.
A great and future classic tuberose perfume : a great thing.
Notes: bergamot, melon, camphor, tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, orange blossom, coconut, white musk. Â* Â*