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Iris scents: why so difficult??

post #1 of 6
7/7/06 at 6:17pm
Thread Starter 
I have a few iris centered fragrances in my vast arsenal, but none, and I mean NONE of them really and truly capture the scent of an iris in bloom. It is one of the most ethereal and lovely spring-blooming flowers around, but all I ever get in an iris fragrance is the smell of roots, dirt, crushed plant stems, and sometimes, mustiness. Why is it so hard to do this? I've tried all the more "good" ones in hopes of finding one I truly liked, but unfortunately, none really fill the bill. It's rather the same way with vetiver, with whom I have an ongoing love/hate relationship. If there's anyone knowledgeable in the botanical sciences, I would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks!
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post #2 of 6
7/7/06 at 8:08pm
Dreamer by Versace has a lovely Iris note. Have you tried it? I'd be curious about your thoughts with Dreamer. Good luck man.
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post #3 of 6
7/7/06 at 8:43pm
Iris flowers do not yield any satisfying extract. The oil (from Iris Germanica, Iris Pallida, Iris Florentina, also known as orris in English) is actually made from the rhizomes (roots) of the plant in a very painstaking process of peeling, drying, milling and then steam distillation. One of the most expensive ingredients (140 Euros per milliliter) and thus synthetic in all but the most luxurious frags. It is natural and quite distinct in Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon's, next to the overwhelming rose, but the actual smell of orris is of violet. So if you smell Iris in anything that would be an imitation anyway.
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post #4 of 6
7/8/06 at 5:19am
Primavera, known for a superb quality concerning essential oils have Iris (95%) in their range. 1ml for 139.00 Euros. 100ml price then 13900 Euros or 177794 US Dollar. Oh my dear, hope it doesn't stink ....

http://www.primavera-life.de/lshop,s...che--iris,.htm
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post #5 of 6
7/8/06 at 7:53am
Maybe because an Iris in bloom is odorless???
That would not make an interesting scent.
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post #6 of 6
7/8/06 at 8:55am
Another Iris fan here! Yep, the smell of iris (the flower) is the hardest and ephemeral to capture! That's why it's extracted from the roots actually. However some scents still use the so precious natural essential oil where many other use synthetic ones. For example Chanel still uses natural oil or loading the "powderful" No. 19 which is wonderful! Another good one imo is Hermes Hiris which is more buttery but absolutely fascinating... If you want more a soliflore juice, I suggest you to try teh SMN iris and CittÃ* di Kyoto which have both strong natural iris presence!
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