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L'Heure Bleu drydown

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
I´ve been wearing L'Heure Bleu for two days in a row, and having admired it before I am now getting attached to it on a personal level. It should be mentioned that first time I ever smelled it I could not take its sweet powderyness at all, it almost made me nauseated.

Anyway, until now I have been most fascinated by the initial state of L.B., beautiful but far from pretty, with its untransparent boquette, heliotropine, the iris note, spicy pinches of anice and coriander...whatever the full list is they melt toghether in an unmistakable unity. Though feminine, there is a tomboyish element somewhere in there.

This has been the first time I have really thought about the drydown and how the powdery base of vanilla/benzoine slowly takes over the scent. I am wondering though...on several occacions could swear that I smelled patchouli. I think 1912 must be long before the patchouli-era in perfumery (?), so I am wondering what this could be. I some listings I have seen opoponax mentioned, and in others not. Does anyone know if these have anything in common, or what else it could be? It could of course be some combination that has this effect for me.
post #2 of 6
I always thought the Europeans (especially the Britains) were aware of Patchouli way before the 60's revival. I am under the impression t hat patchouli would have been known throughout Europe during the reign of Queen Victoria of Britain (1819 -1901) who was Empress of India for much of her reign.

Patchouli leaves & oils were packed among clothing (especially pashminas) to repel moths and other fabric damaging mites during the long trips from the Indian continent. I am sure patchouli would have featured in some popular perfumes of the time.

Although not listed as a major note, I also agree that patchouli is a significant part of l'Heure Bleue. I find that a 'clean', smooth ( non-dirty / earthy) patchouli, especially combined with oakmoss, provides a velvety warmth which supports and enhances the haunting smoothness of the exotic florals like ylang-ylang, orchid and jasmine.

That's my un-informed take on it anyway...
post #3 of 6
Patchouli is used as an insect repellent and it was introduced into Europe about 1844 when imported shawls were wrapped with it.

But as far as I know there's no patchouli in L'HB, there's vetiver.
post #4 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the replies!

It is interesting that patchouli was/is used for protection of fabrics and shawls, bearing in mind that people sometimes associate the smell with mothballs, attics, old textiles, and even with mould (and I can understand this, there is something reminiscent of mould in patchouli, as there is in mango chutney).

Still, at least patchouli doesn´t seem to be credited in western perfumery until later. Perhaps it had a lower status until the 60´s when there was a castling between cheap and expensive in many areas. But that is just me guessing. I suppose that raw, earthy insence-note I get could be vetiver, especially against the vanilla-benzoine background.

edit: spelling mistakes again.
post #5 of 6
I definitely think that's vetiver. I don't pick up any patchouli at all.
post #6 of 6
I've become ADDICTED to this scent, it's all I want to wear lately!
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