What are your favorite colognes?

I have a great old bottle of Mitsouko in cologne which is stunning, I bought it on ebay and have been pretty lavish with it these august nights.
I wish I had more of it! and I also wish cologne was more readily available in the scents I love..used to be, but I'm showing my age here

One of my Top Fives is a 'female' cologne; the absolutely wonderful L'Air du Desert Marocain

Dan

Santa Maria Novella do an amazing collection of
wonderful colognes including the eponymous
Eau de Cologne de SMN. It is very refreshing
with bergamot and other herbal notes. My friends
daughter bought a Rose scented one whilst we were in
Florence, but they do loads such as Mimosa, Verbena,
Orange Blossom, Peau d'Espagne, Magnolia,Freesia
etc.- all with very high standards of preparation and
quality ingredients.Cost is around 40 euros a bottle (100ml)

I guess when I think of cologne I think of something like Jean Naté- which is quite lovely but very fleeting on me- so fleeting I don't tend to wear it.

It seems most of my favorite colognes are from the Etro line: Ambra, Gomma, Messe de Minuit, Patchouly and Sandalo. Strangely none of them would be considered "traditional" by cologne standards I guess- no refreshing lemons or citrus notes throughout and while I do wear some of them in the summer, I don't care for Messe de Minuit in the summer at all- it really is more of a winter time fragrance for me. I'm not exactly sure why Etro calls them colognes either. Colognes to me usually add a burst of fragrance and then fade pretty quickly leaving just a lingering of scent on the skin. All the Etros last a while on me, so I'm not sure the concentration is lacking here.

Another cologne that I dearly enjoy is Té by Creative Universe. This one does have refreshing, clean notes- a splash of citrus and then tea notes that stay awhile. It's only very slightly floral and hardly sweet at all.

I also have some Shalimar in an Eau de Cologne. I find it really interesting in that it has a spicy/citrus opening but then quickly fades to soft powdery notes. It's almost as if the heart notes are completely missing and the robust vanilla dryout of the other concentrations has been toned down. It's very pretty but not very long lasting on me.

As far as what I personally look for in colognes, I can't say that it's anything in particular, mostly because I don't court them outright. If I come across a fragrance that I enjoy wearing and it happens to be a cologne concentration, so be it. Otherwise the title is mostly arbitrary I think (unless I'm specifically looking for a parfum concentration of something- then it becomes pretty important.)

Angelique sous le pluie by Frederic Malle.