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Maitre Perfumer et Gantier - Respect is due

post #1 of 46
9/14/06 at 8:03pm
Thread Starter 
Paul Gs Gendarme thread motivated me to write this, although I had been planning to start this thread for quite some time now.

I feel that theres not a whole lot of discussion on the house Maitre Perfumer et Gantier (MPG) ? With the big three (Creed, L'Artisan, Serge Lutens) dominating the proceedings here at the Basenotes, this house often gets overlooked. I have spent the past two months testing various offerings from this house (via samples and decants) and I am impressed by the general quality and longevity of nearly all of its offerings.

My favorite house is still Creed, but MPG might be its closest competitor. Here are some mini-reviews on a few of its offerings:

1) Santal Noble:
Probably the best known of the MPGs at Basenotes. The coffee and amber notes mix well with the sandalwood, but to my nose, the sandalwood dominates this scent. Longevity and sillage are very high. possibly one of the finest sandalwood based scents ever. While I prefer Creeds Bois De Santal, Santal Noble is great stuff.

2) Ambre Precieux:
I dont like Amber based scents. Unless it is Ambre Precieux. It starts off spicy (some spices + lavendar), and then gradually transforms to a sweet base of amber, vanilla and ambergris. This does for ambre what Original Vetiver, Guerlain Vetiver, and Racine do for Vetiver - make an inviting fragrance around a note which for some reason or the other, the majority of the population may not be enamored with. Long lasting, very unisex, and ultimately satisfying, Ambre Precieux is one of the best amber fragrances around.

3) Fraicheiur Muskissime:
Infact, it seems like the more feminine version of the much lauded Neroli Sauvage, and with better longevity. The berry, jasmine and the blackcurrant lend a dominant sweetness to it, but it never gets cloying because of the lemon and grapefruit notes. The drydown, consisting of sandalwood and musk, blends extremely well with the overall composition - despite the sweet notes, it does smell fresh, and I love the musk in this !

4) Iris Bleu Gris:
The fragrance lures the casual fragrance fan with its green, subdued lemony opening. The middle notes smell sweet for about a minute or so, before one of the most accurate renditions of the iris root reveals itself - the exquisit root then further blends with the base of vetiver, musk and a hint of leather. I think its impressive how MPG have created an iris absolute based fragrance which not only caters to iris lovers, but to any casual fragrance user as well. Is there a better Iris fragrance than Bleu Gris?

5) Racine:
Racine is a fantastic citrusy vetiver fragrance which has an almost perfect vetiver heart note - not overly earthy to scare away people who detest vetiver, and earthy enough to satiate the casual vetiver fan. The hesperidian spicy top notes are marvelous, and the base of patchouli amber and musk brings Racine to near perfection. Some people might draw parallels with Guerlains Vetiver (another excellent creation), but there are differences between the two. I am not a big fan of earthy vetiver, and Racine is right up my alley. Longevity is excellent too (as with nearly all MPGs). I like Guerlains Vetiver a lot, and it also retails for far less than Racine. If you want a masterfully designed vetiver-based fragrance, Racine should be at the top of your "to-try" list.

I still have a few others to try, but so far my experience with this house has been great !

What do other basenoters think ?
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post #2 of 46
9/14/06 at 8:25pm
I own a bottle of Secret Melange, it's fantastic. It's a rather gothic orange and clove scent. The scent of it evokes images of the inside of dracula's castle, decorated in tasteful red and black furnishings and sultry-looking vamps smoking clove cigarettes and sipping brandy.
I haven't had the pleasure of trying MPG's other offerings, but Santal Noble intrigues me the most.
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post #3 of 46
9/14/06 at 8:28pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by knightowl

I own a bottle of Secret Melange, it's fantastic. It's a rather gothic orange and clove scent. The scent of it evokes images of the inside of dracula's castle, decorated in tasteful red and black furnishings and sultry-looking vamps smoking clove cigarettes and sipping brandy.

Is it similar to L'Anarchiste by Caron ?
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post #4 of 46
9/14/06 at 8:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zztopp

Is it similar to L'Anarchiste by Caron ?

L'Anarchiste is lighter and more "metallic", sort of like a CdG scent. Secret Melange is thicker, more oriental in nature.
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post #5 of 46
9/14/06 at 8:52pm
Can't write much now but.... Parfum d'Habit is outstanding. I find it to be one of the most intensely masculine scents there is. Prime juice for the coming months. It's my favorite from the house. Racine is a relatively perfect scent for its type. A rich, dry, earthy vetiver citrus. It satisfies. I prefer it to Guerlain Vetiver. Santal Noble is rich and satisfying but I haven't grown to love it as much as many others have. Hopefully that will change. Route du Vetiver is one of the most intruiging scents I own. A severe and highly diffusive raw vetiver. It's another one that satisfies. For months I had no interest in it but that recently changed. I was sufficiently inspired to write a long review on it not long ago. The bourbon vetiver x black currant x jasmine accord is pungent, tenacious and always compelling.

I'm looking forward to trying more from this house.
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post #6 of 46
9/14/06 at 9:35pm
Their website is really cool. http://www.mpg-paris.com/eng/main.html
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post #7 of 46
9/14/06 at 9:41pm
I'm very impressed with MPG because

a. It makes unambiguously masculine scents rather than androgynous weird niche scents, and
b. It puts those masculine scents in bottles clearly made for male purchasers - there is no unisex bottle conglomeration typical of many other niche players, and
c. Most of the male scents have very good lasting power, the only exception I've found being Racine.

However, one criticism made of the house when I was purchasing and posting about them, I do think has some validity. The comment was made that most of the masculine scents are fairly formal. I think that's true, I'd never really think of wearing them casually or for work.

The other more serious criticism is their bottles. If you throw them in your bag and wander around with them - they will leak.
Renato
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post #8 of 46
9/14/06 at 9:46pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renato


However, one criticism made of the house when I was purchasing and posting about them, I do think has some validity. The comment was made that most of the masculine scents are fairly formal. I think that's true, I'd never really think of wearing them casually or for work.

Renato

Yes thats one of my observations so far also. Most of them are formal serious fragrances.
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post #9 of 46
9/14/06 at 10:17pm
The only MPG that I have smelled is Pour le Jeune Homme, it wasn't bad but it did remind me of Cashmere Bouquet soap with slightly more citrus. I would probably try some of their other scents but I don't think I will be spending $100 a bottle to smell like soap I could get from the drugstore for under a dollar.
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post #10 of 46
9/14/06 at 10:54pm
I've now tried nearly every MPG male scent. I own a bottle of Centaure and a big decant of Santal Noble (thanks to ziffy). A few others are also on the wish list. MPG jostles for position as my favorite house, right there with Lutens. The words that come to mind when describing this house are classy, eccentric, natural, and raw. I think their most famous scents are fairly formal, but there are quite a few casual ones in the mix as well. Just a quick rundown...

Secret Melange: oranges and cloves ablaze, smells almost like burning peat in there; base is heavy on patchouli; very unusual, both dark and fresh

Santal Noble: dark, thick, almost gourmand sandalwood scent; coconut and chocolate notes stand out to my nose; formal but not over the top; not sweet; sublime

Route du Vetiver: the badass among vetiver scents, thick, heavy, deep, strong, great development, blackcurrant note that balances the earthiness very well

Racine: others have said it well - great vetiver and citrus that trumps most others IMO, more natural smelling than Guerlain's, not as wild as Malle's, not as soapy as Creed OV, IMO a fairly casual scent

Parfum d'Habit: lots of patchouli, very manly, a little stinky, strangely, it also reminds me of MPG's George Sand scent, which, perhaps ironically, was made for women

Jardin du Nil: my least favorite, a fruit topnote so ripe it's almost rotten, then patchouli and vetiver; a stinker, but a light one, casual too

Iris Bleue Gris: iris, of course; raw, rooty, dusty iris and woods, pretty casual IMO

Garrigue: raw, dry, woods, herbs, lavender - nice spring/summer scent, also casual, one of the few herbal scents I like, it's almost creamy

Eau des Iles: very similar to L'Artisan's L'Eau du Navigateur, raw, dark and exotic, strong coffee note, lots of woods, not a sweet foody scent, similar also to Parfumerie Generale's Coze, but heavier than that one

Ambre Precieux: Still my favorite ambre scent, woods, amber, nutmeg, a little touch of vanilla, lasts forever, not too sweet, very natural; for what it's worth, the folks at Les Senteurs said the smell of this amber was as close to real ambergris as any other fragrance

Pour le Jeune Homme: Light, vetiver and orange, but still classy, not the fruity/fresh/aquatic thing; casual

Centaure: vetiver, mint, lavender, citrus, woods, blackcurrant, with somewhat heavier basenotes like tobacco, great stuff, summery, outdoorsy scent, masculine, more casual than formal

Fraiche Badiane: Lemon and herbs, something in it reminds me of Loewe Pour Homme, a dark, sweaty quality that hangs in there; and odd scent but not unpleasant, like Secret Melange, it's both dark and fresh
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post #11 of 46
9/14/06 at 11:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by robyogi

Racine: others have said it well - great vetiver and citrus that trumps most others IMO, more natural smelling than Guerlain's, not as wild as Malle's, not as soapy as Creed OV, IMO a fairly casual scent

Iris Bleue Gris: iris, of course; raw, rooty, dusty iris and woods, pretty casual IMO

Garrigue: raw, dry, woods, herbs, lavender - nice spring/summer scent, also casual, one of the few herbal scents I like, it's almost creamy

Centaure: vetiver, mint, lavender, citrus, woods, blackcurrant, with somewhat heavier basenotes like tobacco, great stuff, summery, outdoorsy scent, masculine, more casual than formal

Interesting your perceptions. I'd never have classed these four as casual.
Renato
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post #12 of 46
9/15/06 at 12:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renato

Interesting your perceptions. I'd never have classed these four as casual.
Renato

Something about vetiver and herbs - I just can't see wearing them in formal situations. They always feel casual, outdoorsy. That said, I'm not sure what RdV classifies as...maybe alone in the woods...or maybe it defies classification. Secret Melange is another I find tough to specify a time and place - more of a "whenever you feel like it" scent.
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post #13 of 46
9/15/06 at 12:37am
MPG is my favorite kinda house....
Centaure and Grain de plaisir are by a far degree heads and shoulders beyond alot......when i visited the store in paris...the beautiful...drop dead gorgeous sa spent lots of time showing all...shame i didnt ask about tailleur....lovely place
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post #14 of 46
9/15/06 at 3:58am
MPG has some excellent fragrances by any house's standard: Racine, Secret Melange, Eau des Iles, Garrigue....Yum!
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post #15 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:02am
I adore several of the aforementioned MPG's.....Particularly, Ambre Precieux, Racine, Garrigue and Centaure. No expanasion from me on their attractive qualities is necessary....well said all.......

Just one addition to the AP rundown however. This is one of the best ambers around.... It has a sort of damp wood quality going on in the background. Anyone else have this perception............??

Additionally, although I agree these don't scream for a T-shirt and shorts..... I don't hesitate for a moment wearing Gantiers to the office......I just go with a comparatively more discrete application...............Won't deny myself the pleasure........
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post #16 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:17am
I love Ambre Précieux and Santal Noble but I've never found a women's scent I had liked from this house.
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post #17 of 46
9/15/06 at 11:41am
Santal Noble is one of those widely appreciated fragrances that I don`t "get". I think it is very boring scent. Classy in a way for sure, but still...booooring. It`s too smooth without any edge to it. Smells like a sawdust of mahongy. Conservative and boring.

Parfum d`Habit and especially Route de Vetiver are something totally different : Unique, bold and extremely lively scents. Mature, intelligent, but also eccentric and not that easy. A lot of things are going on, and long duration seems to reveal always something new, hour by hour.

To me Route de Vetiver is the best scent of MPG, and it is a true piece of perfumery art.
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post #18 of 46
9/15/06 at 11:44am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PigeonMurderer

Santal Noble is one of those widely appreciated fragrances that I don`t "get". I think it is very boring scent. Classy in a way for sure, but still...booooring. It`s too smooth without any edge to it. Smells like a sawdust of mahongy. Conservative and boring.

Yes, while I think its great, I dont find it very wearable.
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post #19 of 46
9/15/06 at 11:55am
I can't wear this line because some of the ingredients they use.
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post #20 of 46
9/15/06 at 11:56am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by beachroses

I can't wear this line because some of the ingredients they use.

Would you care to elaborate on that ?
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post #21 of 46
9/15/06 at 12:07pm
I prefer this line over L'Artisan, but that is probably because of two factors: (1) I own one of the MPG and (2) the L'Artisans do not last as long on my skin as do the MPG scents.

There is artistry present that is lacking in many other lines. You may not prefer the scent, but no perfumer is going to be able to either appeal to every nose or find a scent whose composition can last on every skin. Some like sillage and projection, others do not.

I have liked Racine, Iris Blue Gris, and I have a bottle and one-half of Eau Des Iles. I agree that EdI is similar to L'Artisan's Navagatuer, but I got more of a blackberry note and a deeper smoke to the L'Artisan. Had it been not discontinued, or at least easier to obtain in the states, I would probably have one bottle of Eau Des Iles and one of Navagateur.

There are many perfumers that I might like a scent here or there: Divine is but one I can point to. The good thing is finding one that really speaks to you. I have been craving Fumerie Turque lately and it is neat to distinquish the notes in that with Eau Des Iles, especially so when my wife just says each is smoke. I try to explain coffee vs. roses, and it means nothing to her.

Sam
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post #22 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:00pm
Milamber has compared Eau Des Isles to Santos Concentree, which i own, and said he prefers the Santos. Still, i would love to try EDI.
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post #23 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:07pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by knightowl

Milamber has compared Eau Des Isles to Santos Concentree, which i own, and said he prefers the Santos. Still, i would love to try EDI.

Eau Des Isles is one I dont like at all. Too smoky, and too bitter.
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post #24 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by finsfan

I prefer this line over L'Artisan, but that is probably because of two factors: (1) I own one of the MPG and (2) the L'Artisans do not last as long on my skin as do the MPG scents.

The man who started L'Artisan in the 1970s actually left that company and started up Maître. L'Artisan has the same thin, borderline-cheap quality its sister company in Cradle Holdings, Penhaligon's, exhibits. I can't help but wonder what L'Artisan was like before he left because Maître scents have some teeth on them. They are beautiful works, rich and strong, with a real house style and the smell of quality. Like most artisanal houses, Maître seems to have less notes than the big designer scents, which can afford a plethora of new aromachemicals and the attentions of a conglomerate like Firmenich or IFF. But what they do with the relative limitations of artisanal perfumery is skillful, and it enhances the house's old-fashioned characteristics.

I'd love a bottle of Iris Bleu Gris or even Route du Vétiver, but the women's scents like Fraîche Passiflore and Camélia Chinois have the kind of easy luxury to them unparalleled in artisanal perfumery outside Frédéric Malle. Even the scents I dislike (like Baïme) are nonetheless captivating.

Now if they would just do something about those tacky bottlecaps...
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post #25 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:23pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpent

The man who started L'Artisan in the 1970s actually left that company and started up Maître. L'Artisan has the same thin, borderline-cheap quality its sister company in Cradle Holdings, Penhaligon's, exhibits. I can't help but wonder what L'Artisan was like before he left because Maître scents have some teeth on them. They are beautiful works, rich and strong, with a real house style and the smell of quality. Like most artisanal houses, Maître seems to have less notes than the big designer scents, which can afford a plethora of new aromachemicals and the attentions of a conglomerate like Firmenich or IFF. But what they do with the relative limitations of artisanal perfumery is skillful, and it enhances the house's old-fashioned characteristics.

I'd love a bottle of Iris Bleu Gris or even Route du Vétiver, but the women's scents like Fraîche Passiflore and Camélia Chinois have the kind of easy luxury to them unparalleled in artisanal perfumery outside Frédéric Malle. Even the scents I dislike (like Baïme) are nonetheless captivating.

Now if they would just do something about those tacky bottlecaps...

Is that the reason why the 70's L'Artisan fragrances are less watery, more longer lasting, better created and actually somewhat similar to some of the MPG offerings? (ex: Mure et Musc vs. the Muskissime series from MPG)
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post #26 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:26pm
Respect is due to anyone who has the balls to put something out that isnt Aqua Di Gio.
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post #27 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zztopp

Is that the reason why the 70's L'Artisan fragrances are less watery, more longer lasting, better created and actually somewhat similar to some of the MPG offerings? (ex: Mure et Musc vs. the Muskissime series from MPG)

I wouldn't doubt it. Mûre et Musc also doesn't have that "L'Artisan smell" of cleanser and wilted greenery hanging in the background the ones from the 1990s on do.
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post #28 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:29pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrax

Respect is due to anyone who has the balls to put something out that isnt Aqua Di Gio.

Ok then Davidoff gets some respect because of Cool Water
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post #29 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zztopp

Ok then Davidoff gets some respect because of Cool Water

Hell yes they do. Cool Water is a fine scent that has spawned many replicas.
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post #30 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zztopp

Is that the reason why the 70's L'Artisan fragrances are less watery, more longer lasting, better created and actually somewhat similar to some of the MPG offerings? (ex: Mure et Musc vs. the Muskissime series from MPG)

I've always assumed that's the reason. It's why I look at L'Artisan as two houses in one - new and old. (BTW, there was a thread on this a while back...may take some searching to find.) The ones that stand out as near copies are L'Eau du Caporal/Centaure and L'Eau du Navigateur/Eau des Iles. In both cases I think the MPG version is better, longer lasting, more complex.
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post #31 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:32pm
Jean Laporte is the founder of L'Artisan and the head of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. Laporte apparently made many of the original L'Artisan creations, including Mûre et Musc. It ran like a true artisanal house, it seems, with one perfumer guiding the house's product.
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post #32 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:34pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by robyogi

I've always assumed that's the reason. It's why I look at L'Artisan as two houses in one - new and old. (BTW, there was a thread on this a while back...may take some searching to find.) The ones that stand out as near copies are L'Eau du Caporal/Centaure and L'Eau du Navigateur/Eau des Iles. In both cases I think the MPG version is better, longer lasting, more complex.

The Laporte and the post-Laporte era's.
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post #33 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpent

Jean Laporte is the founder of L'Artisan and the head of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier.

What about Jean-Paul Millet Lage? Isn't he the head of MPG now?
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post #34 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by knightowl

What about Jean-Paul Millet Lage? Isn't he the head of MPG now?

Hmm, maybe. I don't follow Maître too closely. But it was begun by Laporte, and many of its primary creation's are Laporte's.
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post #35 of 46
9/15/06 at 9:43pm
I'm seeing Lage listed as co-founder of the house.
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post #36 of 46
9/20/06 at 8:42am
My personal favorites in this line are George Sand, Soir d'Orient and Or des Indes.

About nine months ago I was chatting with a very knowledgeable sales associate at l'Art du Parfum. I was intersted in buying a bottle of Garrigue for my son but they had sold them all out. He let me know that they would no longer be replenshing their supplies of the MPGs that are marketed to men (red-topped caps) because the new head of MPG was reformulating them all and the new versions seemed "watered down". He suggested that when I bought it someplace else, I first check to see when that store obtained it from MPG.

If anyone is able to compare a recently produced bottle to one they had for at least a year, I'd be very interested in reading their impressions of any perceptable difference.
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post #37 of 46
9/20/06 at 8:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by socalwoman

the new head of MPG was reformulating them all and the new versions seemed "watered down".

This wouldn't surprise me. When someone new takes over a company, they just feel the need to put their own stamp on everything, for better or for worse.
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post #38 of 46
9/20/06 at 9:48am
Just a heads up for MPG enthusiasts. There is a seller on ebay now with the option of best offer. You can get any MPG in 3 Oz, 1/2 Oz or sample vial by best offer. I just bought bottles of Santal Noble (how I have waited for this one on ebay), Route de Vetiver, 1/2 Oz of Secret Melange and a sample of Eau des Iles. I submitted the offer and he accepted the next day. Has a few negative feedbacks, but if you read them closely, they were not all that bad and he does not sound like a swindler. Also, when sending me the final invoice, he included his name address and phone number to be reached at in case of any questions. Just do a search on any bottle you're interested and it's easy enough to find.
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post #39 of 46
9/20/06 at 10:27am
I have two MPGs; Santal Noble and Bahiana and love them both. Can someone explain why Bahiana does not show up on MPG's site

Man, if someone see's it on their site, I will be VERY embarrassed as I looked thru it twice .

And yes, the caps suck !


Dan
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post #40 of 46
9/20/06 at 11:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightninrod

I have two MPGs; Santal Noble and Bahiana and love them both. Can someone explain why Bahiana does not show up on MPG's site

Man, if someone see's it on their site, I will be VERY embarrassed as I looked thru it twice .

And yes, the caps suck !


Dan

Sorry to do this to ya, but click on the women's frags link, and it's on the front page as a red box with the words "BAHIANA - New Product." It sits above the links to their other frags (the boxes for each category).
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post #41 of 46
9/20/06 at 11:37am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by markc

Just a heads up for MPG enthusiasts. There is a seller on ebay now with the option of best offer. You can get any MPG in 3 Oz, 1/2 Oz or sample vial by best offer.


I am sorry, I couldnt find this seller. Can you say who this is ?


Also, I recently tried Eau Des Iles ... a strange smokey, bitter coffee bean fragrance with a bit of vetiver in the drydown. Interesting concept, but I dont think I would be wearing this one.
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post #42 of 46
9/20/06 at 2:07pm
What a twit I am! Missed it completely .


Dan
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post #43 of 46
9/20/06 at 2:17pm
How many of you guys have tried Or Des Indes? It`s quite divine, and although it is marketed to women, I find it very masculine (unisex, but more towards masculine side)

In fact, when I first tried this one, it was sort of a blind test without knowing which gender it was meant to...And then when I found out it was women`s, I was completely suprised because I could have sworn it was for men!

It`s amazing and a real treasure for all opoponax lovers! It is extremely honeyed scent with dark, powdery undertones. It`s almost gourmand I`d say, and definitely one of the best female marketed scents I have ever experienced.
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post #44 of 46
9/20/06 at 3:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zztopp

I am sorry, I couldnt find this seller. Can you say who this is ?


Also, I recently tried Eau Des Iles ... a strange smokey, bitter coffee bean fragrance with a bit of vetiver in the drydown. Interesting concept, but I dont think I would be wearing this one.


Seller's store is frenchgiftdirect. I'd post the link buy my home computer is running slooooow. Sorry
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post #45 of 46
9/20/06 at 4:03pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by markc

Seller's store is frenchgiftdirect. I'd post the link buy my home computer is running slooooow. Sorry

Thanks !
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post #46 of 46
9/20/06 at 4:43pm
There was a comparison to MPG and L'Artisan since both houses were the creation of the same person. Does anyone remember my favorite L'Artisan....Incroyable? It was composed of blond tobacco and plum. Anyone know of a similar MPG? I miss Incroyable a lot and think of it often.
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