Fragrance and Cultural Variability

I do think that scents, well, European ones, are closely linked to our mixed weather and clearly felt seasonal changes. I always hear that Arabic and eastern scent cultures are very different, and that Japanese fragrances are best not noticed by others, etc. Your example AdG - I share your doubts, and believe it is a very fine cologne, made for Italians and northern Europe primarily. The whole Milano fashion line seems to go along better with European than, say, east coast US preferences.

But you crack me up with your ideas about Guerlain's Vetiver. Vetiver is a sun loving grass, the sparkling bottle, to my eyes is clear as daylight. Death and corruption? I find it just a bit cool in the original sense. Unless it's warm weather, I do not like to wear it. I now put it to hibernation, and it goes down to a dark cellar room. On this one you outdo 'The Perfume' fantasies of Süskind, my friend! (No pun intended, just a different view)

No pun intended, but European Urinal cakes do not reek of Kouros, and campus dude jokes about Kouros simply do not exist in Europe. The average European guy also does not care about scent ratings or trends. Europe is the opposite of a streamlined cultural universe. That is completely different in North America, where only a few languages are alive, and education systems vary half as much. It's almost been a shock to see a French Perfumer using English perfume names, like 'Rose Petals' and 'Black' Aoud. His Arabian connections may be at the root of this.

Excellent question, Eluard! I believe there are indeed differences in preference that are culturally determined, just like there are regional fashions and particular trends through time. I find it very difficult to pin-point them, so I won't go into that. I would just add that those cultural preferences are not written in stone - they change constantly. But there's another interesting development going on as well.

What we see nowadays is 1) an increase in the variation of the perfume spectrum - with unconventional fragrances such as Dior L'Homme that push the envelope in terms of tradition - and 2) that people have more choice in (and access to) perfumes than ever before, regardless of where they live. However, I have the impression that cross-cultural preferences are actually converging. In other words, there are still cultural differences between Milan and Buenos Aires and Hong Kong, but they are rapidly becoming smaller. People all over the world have access to the same magazines, the same movies, the same food. Something similar is going on in perfumery. Think of the international Sephora concept; think of the global advertisement campaigns by LVMH, the Gucci Group, and others. If a big brand launches a new perfume, they want it to be a worldwide success. They don't sit and wait for the next Shalimar to be created almost by accident, they just ask the people what they like most. And when the marketeers' target is the largest common denominator, consumers end up with more and more of the same. Despite the fact that they have actually more to choose from.

Well, I know that, in fashion at least, trends tend to hit Europe at least a year before they cross the Atantic. Whatever style is big over there usually reaches New York and LA at least a year later, and the rest of the states gradually follow. I wonder if Europe went through an aquatic phase before the US caught the bug.

I know that they have adopted orientals over there (ie the prevalance of Le Male), and now of course they are making a comeback in the US, while the fresh fad is starting to dwindle. If leathers are the new fragrance trend in Europe, perhaps our SAs in America will be hawking leathers in about 5 years, and we'll all be whining about how we're sick of leather here on BN.