Thanks for all the advice on violet fragrances. I think after some e-baying, BN decanting and department store browsing I should give a little feedback.
Burberry Touch for Men – I did a test spray of this and did not like it all. I could well be suffering from the British prejudice against Burberry that a number of posters have noted. Whilst some Burberry frags (Brit perhaps) might overcome this prejudice, Touch simply reinforced it. To me, it smelt generic and synthetic. In its defence I only did a card test, I’ll do a skin test at some time, but with low expectations.
Trumper Ajaccio Violets – got a decant and put a little on some paper. It was perfect. A complete summation of what makes violet such an intoxicating, joyful and mysterious scent. I thought I had found my Holy Grail for a summer and holiday scent, but then I tried it on my skin. Previous posts had warned that it was 'fleeting', so I should have known. My skin simply swallowed it. One gulp. Nothing left but an unpleasant powdery note. I could keep it for another try at the height of summer or just soak all my notebooks in it. Initial hopes dashed.
Rykiel pour Homme – ebay bargain. I put it on and it disappeared. I thought I was in Ajjacio Violets territory again, but after a generous re-application it stuck on my skin and very nicely too. The top notes are bright, citrusy and delightful. The drydown is quite light and subtle, but it does keep going. It marries the violet with fruits and dark berries, but it isn’t too sweet. I can’t detect any typical basenotes and it is quite linear. Unisex rather than masculine. This could be a summer favourite.
CSP Bois de Filao – kudos to levente for the tip. It doesn’t appear on any other violet thread and is my current favourite. Seems quite simple – citrusy/peppery short-lived top notes; mid and basenotes of violet, woods and musk, but it does keeps the violet note from the top through to the end without ever losing it, having it dominated by (or dominating) the other notes or falling into sickly-sweetness. Good longevity, very wearable, impressive.
I still need to investigate Grey Flannel (some BN comments have put me off and I don’t know where I can test this in a UK store, but bottles are quite cheap on ebay); Bois de Violette, Serge Lutens; Balmain Jolie Madam (I like the sound of the green/violet combo - so should add Unicorn to the list) and Penhaligon Violetta (next trip to Selfridges).
I’ve just got some Bleecker Street which I believe has a good violet note and I’ve been enjoying the violet/iris heart of GIT.
Violet seems to be a difficult note to capture accurately and (particularly) to sustain - sounds like the perfect subject for a minor obsession
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