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Turned Lutens?!

post #1 of 11
12/8/06 at 11:00pm
Thread Starter 
This is a desperate wail. Why ,oh why is this happening? For the second time a bottle of Datura Noir (export line) has developed a top note of burning rubber!

They were bought in different shops so I suppose I can't say they are both selling old stock. At both times only a small part of the juice had been used, so 'too much air in the bottle' is also not really an explanation. I admit: I don't use DN every day, but these bottles were each bought less than a year ago.

After the second bottle 'changed', I went to the shop to try the tester: same rubber top note. But the small spray sample I tried there was lovely. SA and I were both baffled. So it is also not my skinchemistry.

I never ever had trouble with any Lutens before, neither from the exclusive line nor the export line.
But...I have had funny experiences with Mandorlo di Sicilia (AdP) and Heliotrope (Etro). Both developed after a short while a note that is best described as 'burning leaves'.

So, is the almond note responsible for this? And if so: why is SL's Rahat Loukoum not having the same trouble?

An explanation would be greatly appreciated
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post #2 of 11
12/8/06 at 11:27pm
That's really interesting. I haven't ever owned a bottle of DN (samples only), and yet I can somehow see where what you report might occur. Am familiar with the other two, but perhaps haven't had them long enough (actually I swapped the Etro away) to run into it.

I will note that there is a tendency to rubberiness in all three of them, and yet not in the Rahat. Perhaps my rubber is your burning leaves.

The only scent that has ever changed on me is Ce Soir ou Jamais. This got extremely and potently wine-like, which is a facet of the fragrance in its pristine condition, so maybe it is some intensification of certain notes that is to blame.
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post #3 of 11
12/9/06 at 5:49am
If it has an open top, you may be introducing minute quantities of something on your skin, which is reacting with a component in the fragrance.

I've come across this phenomenon--not all fragrances seem to be so reactive, however--and for this reason only test from bottles that have a spray cap, to ensure I'm getting a relible "read" of the scent.

If the bottle has a spray top, a component of the fragrance may be sensitive to light/heat.
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post #4 of 11
12/9/06 at 6:12am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mysteriousmongoose

If it has an open top, you may be introducing minute quantities of something on your skin, which is reacting with a component in the fragrance.

I've come across this phenomenon--not all fragrances seem to be so reactive, however--and for this reason only test from bottles that have a spray cap, to ensure I'm getting a relible "read" of the scent.

If the bottle has a spray top, a component of the fragrance may be sensitive to light/heat.

The bottle came with a seperate spray (including a cap) with I screwed on immediately. I have four Lutens' scents in this type of bottle and none has reacted the way Datura Noir does. And I store all of my bottles in closed cabinets. In fact, all my Lutens' scents, including the bell jars, are stored in the same cabinet, so the condition in which they are kept is the same. Every one is fine, except the DN (twice). That is why I am so puzzled. I decant the bell jars in purse sprays and even those are in splendid condition.
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post #5 of 11
12/9/06 at 7:11am
That's peculiar, Riannon and I'm sorry it spoils such a beautiful tropical wonder. I own all three you mention and just sprayed Datura Noir on the back of my hand with the firm intention to detect a burning rubber note...none! My bottle is something less than one year old and stored away from light but not necessarily from slight temp changes.
To me DN smells more like soft doll's head, if I have to name something related with rubber.
I normally don't get burning leaves from Heliotrope or MdS either
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post #6 of 11
12/9/06 at 7:57am
Have you tried it on a paper strip? On anyone else? Maybe your chemistry has changed (your interaction with fragrance/your response)? I've never had this happen, but it sounds horribly frustrating.
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post #7 of 11
12/9/06 at 8:28am
I just wore Daruta Noir a few days ago, my bottle is about 4-5 months old (or that's how long I've had it). No rubber on me... but then again I wear Bvlgari Black and don't get rubber even from that one. It's possible that it could be chemistry after all. Although, your experience with the sample vs. full bottle is puzzling.
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post #8 of 11
12/9/06 at 8:51am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mysteriousmongoose

Have you tried it on a paper strip? On anyone else? Maybe your chemistry has changed (your interaction with fragrance/your response)? I've never had this happen, but it sounds horribly frustrating.

I tried it on a paper strip, I tried it on DH: same result. Topnote has turned into 'rubber'. Thank goodness that the heart and base notes are still alright. But that first whiff is not exactly nice.

And it can not be my bodychemistry because this is the second time it happens. First bottle got that funny smell, so I used the rest in the bath. I bought a new bottle :ah, there was that great top note again.... and then a month or two later....rubber!
And I tried it summer and winter, after eating all kinds of food, only to discover what exactly was going on.

As it is not a change of bodychemistry, then it must be the scent itself. Maybe there has been a batch where something did go wrong without anyone noticing it. An instability in the notes, maybe?
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post #9 of 11
12/9/06 at 10:20am
How frustrating! I sprayed mine on my arm immediately after reading the post, and it still smells like it did the day I bought it. To my nose, the interplay of bitter almond and tonka comes off as artificial since I have never smelled that same scent combo in nature. It is the similiar for me to the bitter almond/vanilla of Hypnotic Poison which I believe has been called the playdough note in a recent thread. In DN this accord comes off crisp and sharp. In HP it strikes me as soft and flowing.

I used to have a pair of rubber soled sandals that were vanilla scented.

I don't know. I'm rambling like a lunatic.

You should try Tuberose Criminelle.
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post #10 of 11
12/9/06 at 10:35am
This must have to do with differences in how we smell, in other words, physiology, because when I first tried my Datura Noir sample, and when I spritzed from a different bottle in a store, both times I got the rubber note! These were very fresh samples, straight from Paris. I guess some of us, the unfortunate minority, process something in this scent as rubber. Too bad, but you're definitely not crazy!
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post #11 of 11
12/10/06 at 5:19am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elf

I guess some of us, the unfortunate minority, process something in this scent as rubber. Too bad, but you're definitely not crazy!

Right, that is quite a relief There is still hope for me, scentwise spoken, that is.
Dear ladies, thank you for your answers and eh...Shycat....where exactly did you buy those "rubber soled sandals that were vanilla scented"??
Fragranced catfeet, how yummie!
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