I'm sure there is a topic of this somewhere (or an article to which can be linked), but I was just curious how a particular "nose" is chosen for a scent or company? Or, more specifically, what the process is whereby a particular nose makes a scent for that company or house (not the process of MAKING the scent, but before that... how he/she is CHOSEN to make that scent).
I'm sure that there are all sorts of stipulations set by clients, but is it something like the process where an actor is chosen for a film? Is there a list of top choices and they get to "try out?" Or, is it maybe like book publishing, where a nose makes a scent and sends it around to many different houses hoping that one of them will pick it up and sell it?
For example, when creating a scent for Dior Homme's boutique line, did Annick Menardo have to compete with others to have Bois d'argent chosen (did Jean-Claude Ellena also submit something?), or was Menardo hand picked beforehand to create a scent according to a certain rubric? And, if so, why him over somebody like Olivia Giacobetti, who also makes some very good stuff? Who's to say that given a similar rubric, Giacobetti, Polges, or Ellena could have made a "better" Bois d'argent (if that makes sense)? And, finally, like book publishing or (sometimes) acting, does a nose get a percentage of the sales of the fragrances he/she makes... i.e. Does Ellena make 2% off of each bottle sold of Bigarade Concentree or Jardin sur le Nil?
I'm just curious and thought it might make for an interesting discussion (and a diversion from the ubiquitous "Make me Recomendations!!!" threads) , because we always talk about how a particular nose created YYY scent for XXX house, but I've never heard anybody talk about how that relationship comes about or really what that relationship entails.
I'm sure that there are all sorts of stipulations set by clients, but is it something like the process where an actor is chosen for a film? Is there a list of top choices and they get to "try out?" Or, is it maybe like book publishing, where a nose makes a scent and sends it around to many different houses hoping that one of them will pick it up and sell it?
For example, when creating a scent for Dior Homme's boutique line, did Annick Menardo have to compete with others to have Bois d'argent chosen (did Jean-Claude Ellena also submit something?), or was Menardo hand picked beforehand to create a scent according to a certain rubric? And, if so, why him over somebody like Olivia Giacobetti, who also makes some very good stuff? Who's to say that given a similar rubric, Giacobetti, Polges, or Ellena could have made a "better" Bois d'argent (if that makes sense)? And, finally, like book publishing or (sometimes) acting, does a nose get a percentage of the sales of the fragrances he/she makes... i.e. Does Ellena make 2% off of each bottle sold of Bigarade Concentree or Jardin sur le Nil?
I'm just curious and thought it might make for an interesting discussion (and a diversion from the ubiquitous "Make me Recomendations!!!" threads) , because we always talk about how a particular nose created YYY scent for XXX house, but I've never heard anybody talk about how that relationship comes about or really what that relationship entails.





