2006 - Formula with no oakmoss. Only treemoss listed. Citrusy opening note. Dry wood heart is extremely resinous (musty in a pretty, haunting way.) Peach emerges from the wood. In the EDT it is discordant with the wood for awhile and takes longer to focus. In the parfum, it emerges faster and stronger. The peach is dominated by the wood for a relatively long time. Base ends with a delicate, sweet peach which is more aromatic than edible.
1980s - No citrus top notes. Wood is still resinous, but the peach is more well-matched with the wood. The peach emerges faster, stronger, and better in higher concentrations, as it does currently. Smells similar to the current version, but the peach and wood are more mellow and integrated, and it is overall better and less harsh.
1970s - Extremely different. This must be the last time that Mitsouko smelled like Mitsouko. Right from the start, this is a creamy, rich, sweet, round, peach. So deep, so lush, so delicious. The wood is integrated into the peach (not the other way around) and it is mild and hardly noticed. The peach evolves by picking up sweetness and a bit of powder, like a box of expensive, old-fashioned makeup. The base has vanilla. This aroma is lacking in later versions. Together with the fruit, the base ends up smelling like vanilla cake soaked with orange or peach liquour. This fragrance is all about peach, not wood.
And this is the EDC from the 1970s. What paradise must the EDT, EDP, or pure parfum have been?
I can see Mitsouko sitting in front of her vanity, wearing her peach silk kimono. She is not sad and musty. She is smiling and sweet.
Why cannot they make Mitsouko like this again?
I am sorry, but if you haven't smelled this, you have not smelled the real Mitsouko.
I am dismayed. This old formulation is beautiful beyond words.
People, Guerlain has pulled a switcheroo. And it happened after the 1970s. The current changes are bad, but the wost change happened decades ago.