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chandler burr's latest perfume article on guerlain

post #1 of 15
2/24/07 at 7:15pm
Thread Starter 
"Mitsouko is a thing of subtle silk opulence: strength and balance and twilight. I imagine that in the Chinese opium dens, just as the opium eaters begin to lose consciousness, they perceive a similarly magical smell drifting from their pipes. If Mitsouko is not five stars, no perfume is."

in ny times "t" magazine fashion section: i'd post the link, but basenotes just won't let me.
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post #2 of 15
2/24/07 at 7:37pm
Welcome frelkins! !! :bounce:

I think BN will let me - try this:http://www.nytimes.com/2007/02/25/st...cent.text.html
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post #3 of 15
2/24/07 at 8:23pm
Beautifully written, as always. He is so much better at expressing my complete dislike of Insolence, and my love of Mitsouko (and L'Heure Bleue in passing during his discussion of L'Instant). In fact, he's made me want to sniff L'Instant, one I've always passed on up until now, because I only want to smell the "good" Guerlains.

That said, it's a sad story he's outlining, isn't it? **heavy sigh**

Thanks for posting the link!
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post #4 of 15
2/24/07 at 8:33pm
"Its chairman, Bernard Arnault, understands that of all the LVMH brands, only Guerlain can combat Chanel" ..... right..

Looks like Chanel is making somewhat of a comeback (fingers crossed) while its big rival is dying a slow painful death..
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post #5 of 15
2/25/07 at 1:06am
Chandler has been sniffing too long.

Sorry but L'Instant is nothing like L'Heure Bleu not even a hint of it. Honey,amber and vanilla. Insolence does have hints of L'Heure in the middle many have commented on this. A few years ago when L'Instant came out there was a surge of honey,amber and vanilla fragrances being launched.
It fit in with that trend and was interchangable with a few others. Insolence was aimed at the young trendy but they find it too old fashioned the violets you know!
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post #6 of 15
2/25/07 at 1:36am
What I have heard from the Guerlian-stores I visit, the best selling Guerlain frag right now is Insolence.
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post #7 of 15
2/25/07 at 4:34am
I tried it yesterday (not on me, but on a testing strip). It smelled like parma violet sweets. I hate violet, so it's definitely not for me.
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post #8 of 15
2/25/07 at 5:27am
Insolence smells horrible, but apart from that, using Hilary Swank to market it was a bad, baaaad move. She is the antithesis of what Guerlain means to me, and as wrong as it is, the marketing of a fragrance does affect its reception. Sad.
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post #9 of 15
2/25/07 at 5:52am
I disagree with him.
See the male forum to read my answer on it, if you'd like to.
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post #10 of 15
2/25/07 at 7:33am
I wish I could go back in time and buy all the old Guerlains as they were when they were new. More than any other house, that is how I feel about Guerlain.
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post #11 of 15
2/25/07 at 9:10am
He sings the praises of Mitsouko, and mentions its oakmoss - but it's not being made with oakmoss anymore. I suppose it was kind of him to not mention that.
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post #12 of 15
2/25/07 at 3:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by purplebird7

I wish I could go back in time and buy all the old Guerlains as they were when they were new. More than any other house, that is how I feel about Guerlain.

Me too! Three, four and five. (And I hope you're not snow-bound there on the open plains....)
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post #13 of 15
2/25/07 at 3:44pm
Yes, I enjoyed this article today , too. You all know of my troubled past with Mitsouko...I have just dabbed the tops of my wrists with my vintage bottle stopper of this classic. Let's see where it takes me tonight.
I do love the bottle. It is engraved on the bottle with the words Guerlain and Made in France, and has that pretty Gendarme hat stopper and the lovely art deco sticker on its face. The liquid is cognac colored, with streaks in it which I originally thought meant it turned bad, but upon reading an article about vintage perfumes, seems to be a sign that it is , well, perfume.
So far, the two light dabs on each wrist are wearing nicely. Perhaps the key is subtle application for me. Have I said this before?
Hell, maybe I WILL jump into the Guerlain week. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, say I!

a bit later and I am feeling rather sexy and smokey with this Miss Mitsouko on my wrists. She has become a dark smolder on my wrists. I have not yet determined if it is the Mitsouko or the vodka with cranberry juice in my hand - I suspect it may be a combo of both! hee hee hee
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post #14 of 15
2/26/07 at 5:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtamara41

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, say I!

ROFL! That's a classic!
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post #15 of 15
2/27/07 at 2:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sherrie11

He sings the praises of Mitsouko, and mentions its oakmoss - but it's not being made with oakmoss anymore. I suppose it was kind of him to not mention that.

If only that was the reason why not........



I am with Donna on this.
L'instant is not reminiscent of Guerlain style, while Insolence is. For better or worse, like it or not (I respect the fact that some do not like the smell of it, however)
And yes, I do detect an element of L'heure Bleue in Insolence; certainly not in L'instant (I don't know how he came up with this!)
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