>>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

I plan to wear three chypres today. First Montana Parfum de Peau, a strong scent which has always been described as an 'avant garde' chypre since its creation in the mid eighties. Second Chanel No.19, one of my favourite scents, the 'middleweight' of the three. Finally Narciso Rodriguez For Her, the most modern and softest chypre of my choices. Would never have guessed it was a chypre without reading the info on Basenotes.

Montana Parfum de Peau on my wrist 12.35 am. Originally fell in love with and bought this floral/chypre twenty years ago and revisited it last year, buying a couple of bottles from ebay. Notes from osMoz are:
Top Notes: peach, blackcurrant, pepper, cardamom.
Middle Notes: ginger , rose, tuberose, carnation.
Base Notes: patchouli, vetiver, civet, castoreum.
I can no longer wear this scent comfortably for a number of reasons: my nose for scents has changed dramatically; my skin chemistry has changed; I was a smoker when I wore it first time around; Parfum de Peau's composition has been altered too, I am sure that it had richer, sweeter top and middle notes all those years ago. I was so disappointed when I received my new bottles. Where once it smelled great when worn with a leather jacket (layering!) now this fragrance turns stale on my skin emitting a scent combo of beer and ashtray! This is not a combination that I crave! I imagine that it is kinder to others.

Today, I'm wearing Aromatics Elixir...though I don't think I'll be wearing it for much longer. It's an extremely strong fragrance - too strong for me...it's giving me a headache!! The notes, according to BN are:
Top Notes: Rose, Chamomile
Middle Notes: Oakmoss, Jasmine, Muguet, Ylang-Ylang
Base Notes: Patchouli, Musk, Amber, Sandalwood

On me, it doesn't give me a nice combo of the florals - all I get is a blend of chamomile & patchouli. I think the latter is what's making it so strong, and what's giving me the headache.

It's a shame - it has the ingredients that sound like a fragrance I would wear, but the strength of the patchouli plus not being able to smell the other flowers (jasmine, rose) is a downer too.

Thanks for giving me the proper opportunity to try this out!! Now I know, that it's not a scent my skin (or my head) loves...I may give my miniature to mum - she loves her floral chypres

My Chypre Day is filled with Chanel's 31, Rue Cambon.

Chypre for today:

Ysatis extrait from Givenchy.

Created in 1984 by Dominique Ropion.

Notes taken from Michael Edwards' book "Perfume legends"
Topnotes: Mandarin, Ylang-Ylang, Orange Blossom
Heartnotes: Jasmine, Tuberose, Rose, Iris
Basenotes: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Musk, Ambergris, Civet, Clove, Vanilla, Bay-rum.

I don't wear this often enough but when I do like today, I see the face of my dear friend. Not very fond of perfumes at first, but over the years starting to sniff my hair and wrists. Buying her first extrait, running with her face glowing of joy for finding such a treasure.
Now she has become a woman with a knowledge and collection worthy of every perfumeforum.
She gave this bottle of Ysatis to me.

Ysatis today for friendship and love.

I have devoted this day; as I did yesterday too; to Rochas Femme edt. (new).
Ordered it unsniffed; based on reviews, I got the impression that this is a love or hate scent...? I definetely don't hate it, but it wasn't instant love either....I feel puzzled by it; trying to figure out this smell, it is so different from the other fragrances I've had during the years.

Couldn't find the olfactory pyramid in the directory; but I know it has cumin; very strong in the beginning. It is supposed to have notes of ripe fruits; plums and peaches...I'm not able to smell the fruit...the same goes for the flower notes. But I'm still a novice in this business -

My overall impression is a dry; warm morning in the wood at springtime.

I learned (am learning) how to layer here on BaseNotes - and consider it an art, like putting together a good meal. Playing with combos of sweet and acrid, fruits and spices, a good cheese and an after dinner cigar sunk deep in an old leather arm chair.

But to me, most Guerlains are complete meals in themselves. Not a stew or potage, but totally satisfying every sensory longing. I almost never layer with them.

Which brings me to my long-neglected companion Mitsouko - brought forth for todays Chypre'n'Speak. I've got the newer EDT which is missing the thrumming undertone of oakmoss (I guess) but is till a marvel of fruits and flowers held together with (I guess) the Bergamot.

It always amazes me how few ingredients are listed for these classics - L'Heure Bleu is another. This what our BN Directory shows:

* Top Notes
* Bergamot, Rose,

Middle Notes
* Jasmin, Spices, Peach,

Base Notes
* Oakmoss, Woody notes

Moondeva put this in the "fruity chypre" class but on me the flowers are more prominent with just a hint of fruit and a jab of spice and a greeny haze over all.

In Mitsouko I glide through the corridors of a private gaming club in Deauville - very discreet, everyone in evening clothes, flirtations so subtle one is not quite sure.....

I was leaning towards two of my chyrpes but when today arrived changed my mind.

Y by YSL in edp and parfum, double blast.

Y to me has always been elegant classy and feminine. Such a great shame YSL decided to discount the parfum and edp. And even the edt is hidden in a drawer unless asked for.

I had a hard time deciding what to wear today because my half of my collection is Chypres. I considered Jolie Madame, Miss Dior, or Mitsouko, because they are so wonderful, and I want to encourage other people to try them if they have not already done so.

However, I decided to choose something new. The reason is this: I will not have to deal with the issue of reformulation. So, I chose Une Folie de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine.

People, if you had problems with Aromatic Elixer, please get a sample of this from Luscious Cargo. It is rose and patchouli in its finest, sweetest, most femininie form. Not harsh at all, like Clinique Aromatics Elixer. Sweeter than L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Rose, because it contains benzoin. More feminine, way less challenging than Montale Black Aoud. So, if you are looking for a rose and patchouli scent, I cannot recommend anything more highly than Une Folie De Rose.

It is a very rosy perfume. The patchouli is lovely, combining with the rose to create a rather orangey aroma. This has a superb spicy rose. A citrusy bergamot opening evolves into lovely jasmine and rose absolute. Tea rose keeps it lively. Spice and a slightly sweet base make it delicious.

Best of all, it was formulated in accordance with all the strict new regulations governing oakmoss, plus (I am happy to report) Les Parfums de Rosine has received the Greenpeace "green light" designation, indicating that this company does not use potentially harmful chemical substances known to accumulate in the body.

It's chypre, it's in its lovely, original formulation, and it's safe. What more could I ask for?

I was sampling Chypre Rouge on one wrist this morning, which gave me the impression of something hot red and rough...like a cinnamon red hot candy without the sweetness.
Surprisingly that has faded and so I decanted some of my vintage Mitsouko into an atomizer and spritzed that on. I got the bottle off ebay , don't know the year, but its engraved with Guerlain and Made in France on the bottom. The juice is dark amber colored and potent.
I get an incensy burnt peach smolder from this. Quite nice and yet "bad" in a good way. This is a fullbodied and dark fragrance. The smoldering quality is what made me add it to my naughty frag list.
Less is more. Too much would asphyxiate me.

Today I am wearing Mitsouko. I don't think I have had this on for months! I'm loving every minute of it. I get warm spicey fruit with a dash of wood on my skin. It also stays very close to the skin on me.

I am not a big fan of chypre as you can see from my drobe...
I picked Y by YSL as my SnS because I adore the mossy drydown of the scent. The opening of Y is very strong. It reminds me of one of those loud attention seeking scent. After the alcohol settled it became an understated scent which is dominated by this subdued fruitty mossy scent. It has a relatively good staying power and lasted about 4 hours on my skin.

(Notes taken from the osMoz site)
Top note : Peach, Aldehydes, Gardenia, Honeysuckle
Middle note : Narcissus, Hyacinth, Rose, Orris
Base note : Patchouli, Vetiver, Civet, Benzoin

I promise I will wear more chypre and learn to love it.

Startinig the day in a beautiful oldie:Sheherazade which is classified as an aldehydic chypre
\t
Top notes:Aldehydes, fruity note, bergamot, rosewood
\t
Heart notes:Rose, carnation, jasmine, ylang-ylang, orris, cassia
\t
Base notes:Vanilla, leather, moss, sandalwood, benzoin, opopnax, oakmoss, civet

Later I'll switch to afternoon power chypre: Paloma Picasso
and go out to dinner inMontana Parfum d'elle:

Top:Bergamot oil, Ginger, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Melon, \t
\t\t
Heart:\tBroom, Hyacinth, Lily of the Valley, Tuberose, Ylang-Ylang, \t
\t\t
Base:Amber, Cedar, Oakmoss, Tobacco, Tonka, Vanilla,

Sometimes I feel alone in my love for this one,but I think its drydown is gorgeous!

Have been in town with DH; and after we were done with our errands, grocery and flower shopping; we stepped into a café to read the papers and relax a bit before going home. When I took of my coat, I noticed a nice floral smell, coming from me. Jasmine...I think. But still no ripe fruit.
I did spray a scarf this morning Quarry, will see how it smells tomorrow then.

I remember Ma griffe - very "sharp" fragrance, but I liked it.

Tomorrow I will wear Cabochard - my first impression of it was that it is an easier fragrance to wear than Femme. But they're both new to me; so I'm not sure yet.

Decided to begin this day dedicated to my absolute FAVOURITE family of scents at the beginning - with the the one that inspired them all.


Top notes: Bergamot oil, Fruit Notes, Lemon, Neroli, Orange
Heart notes: Carnation, Jasmin, Lilac, Orris, Rose, Ylang-Ylang
Base notes: Civet, Labdanum, Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Styrax

I must admit that I am a little flummoxed by this. But there is still great love. I am very blessed to be able to experience this and it helps to understand the thread that runs throughout this complex, diverse family of perfumes. This has also confirmed for me that the current generation / interpretation of the genre of Chypre are far, far off track. New chypres are as much true Chypres as New Labour has to the core values of left wing, liberal Socialism that Old Labour were committed to (for those that know nothing of UK politics this means that there is nothing to link the two factions but the name). When I smell Chypre de Coty on my skin I realise that New Chypres will only ever be woody blends to me - nice but not chypre by any means.

Back to the original: I was flummoxed by this due to the basic fact that it is actually quite different from many of the classic established blends that are readily accepted as chypre, by devoted chypre lovers today. Purplebird7, on her 'Guerlain Mitsouko is Dead' thread made a stunning statement that the actual major adulteration of the Mitsouko formulation happened years ago! Enjoying the delicate beauty of Chypre de Coty as I am today I can truly say that I have to agree.

This is a wonderfully, soft, close to skin scent with the whole is more than it's parts; all the notes melding together seamlessly creating a haunting, mysterious golden melange that haunts well after the scent disappears discreetly from the skin. Susan Irvine describes it as troublant in her Perfume Bible and that is exactly what it is. It becomes one with the wearer, with no discordant notes or edges, quiet, reserved, contemplative, undemanding and yet it commands attention, tantalising holding you hopelessly enthralled without quite knowing why...just knowing that you must know more...
I can understand now why Jean Harlow's husband was so tragically haunted by her scent.

Time may have mellowed and softened my vintage bottle somewhat but the impact is definitely the same. The scent begins brightly but soft like sunshine on the morning of a warm summer's day with the warm classic heart florals adding to the effect of a gentle sun-warmed landscape. The long lasting base is so smooth, creamy and luscious recreating the scent of sunwarmed skin touched with elegance. The overall effect is hazy, dreamy, softly nostalgic like old home movies of summer holidays in the country, except the 'country' is the beautiful island of Cyprus.

Even now I know I have not done justice to this amazing scent - the forerunner of all that I love in scents today. To have some idea of just how unique this beauty smells here is a list of scents that smell similar and evolve in a similar manner when worn (they are not all chypres true or new but they evoke a similar experience):

TBS Chypre
Pierre Cardin Choc EDP
Jean Patou Sublime EDP
Ava Luxe Moss
Guerlain Mitsouko parfum (vintage)
Rochas Femme (vintage)
Dana Raffinee
Spiritual Sky Ambergris + TBS Fuzzy Peach

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Never feel alone again, my dear Zibeline.

I adore this scent, bought blind at the height of a perfume indulgence frenzy, more for the bottle than the scent. Luckily, the scent itself also turns out to be a stunner! I love it and it loves me!

Each time I wear this I fall in love with it, especially with that divinely haunting dry down. I reach for it most in autumn but am happy to wear it all year round. A definite HG scent for me.

It turns into something quite seductive on my skin but never in an overt, predatory manner. Just fresh, warm and irresitible come the base notes. I try not to wear it unless I am prepared to be the focus of attraction for my SO and most of the males in the immediate vicinity!

Have a great evening - but we both already know you will....

Miss Dior (vintage)

I have a sample of the newer Miss Dior as well as a bottle of the vintage EDC and there is a noticeable difference between the two. Ill focus this post on my impressions of the vintage version.

Random images that this scent evokes: a woman, circa 1964, arranging a vase of pale flowers and green leaves that she just gathered from her garden. Theres a watered-down scotch at her side. Shes wearing a tailored dress and her petite leather purse matches her pale yellow pumps. Miss Dior seems calm, introspective and enjoying her time alone.

The vintage Miss Dior is a soft, green, slightly sweet floral with a smooth leather base. Miss Dior is lady-like and calm with a smooth elegance and charm. There is an airiness to Miss Dior. Except for the sharp opening (which fades quickly), no one note dominates this well-modulated scent.

[/SIZE]According to OsMoz: Date of creation
1947

Top note :\tGardenia, Galbanum, Bergamot, Clary Sage
\t
Middle note :\tJasmine, Narcissus, Neroli, Rose

Base note :\tPatchouli, Oakmoss, Labdanum, Sandal

http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/marques...RFUM&LANGUE=en

This is a wonderfully evocative description of vintage formulation Miss Dior and beautifully describes the scent experience of this amazing classic floral-animalic (leather) chypre. Another HG perfume for me. Thank you, BlueIsis.

Notes courtesy of www.scentdirect.com:
Top notes: Aldehyde Accord, Bergamot oil, Clary Sage oil, Galbanum, Gardenia
Heart notes: Carnation, Jasmin, Lily of the Valley, Narcissus, Orris, Rose
Base notes: Amber, Leather, Moss, Patchouli, Sandal, Vetiver

I am also wearing a vintage Miss Dior. I just got it to compare with the recent edt. It is deeper and mellower--no surprise. A unique freshening experience, perfect for this time of year. We just got dumped on with about a foot of snow. All the green rushing through my sinuses is just what I needed. I'm also struck with a rush of nostalgia for the teenage years and 'Jean Nate' Anyone?

I´m wearing YSL Rive Gauche, an old fav of mine. This just must be a chypre! It is really longlasting, applied at 7 in the morging, and now, about 19.30, still smelling divine. I have worn this frag as a signature scent for several years in the late 60´s and early 70´s, and of course I love "my old friend"!

Chanel No.19 edt for me for daytime. It brings no surprise as I have loved it for a good few years now, although No.19 has been neglected recently in favour of my new loves. Sniff'n Speak encourages me to wear it again.
Notes listed on Basenotes are:
Top: Galbanum, bergamot, neroli, hyacinth.
Middle: Rose, Orris, jasmine, narcissus, muguet, ylang ylang.
Base: Musk, sandal, oakmoss, leather and cedarwood.
The topnotes are always very green and 'dry' to me but once the fragrance settles it's wonderful. I don't get any rose from no.19, perhaps it is stronger in the edp? Narcissus, muguet and ylang ylang come to the fore and they don't fade on my skin, instead blending with a base of musk, oakmoss and leather. I can't pick out sandal (wood?) or cedarwood either. Fresh and bright, like the new spring, I hope it always smells as good on me as it does today.

Zibeline, I was going to wear Narciso Rodriguez For Her tonight as my third chypre but I will wear Montana Parfum d'Elle instead to be twinned with you. Haven't worn this one for ages.

I admit, I'm not a huge fan of the Chypre genre. I have very few in my wardrobe. I'm wearing Agent Provocateur today, probably not the truest form of Chypre since there is not oakmoss in the notes. AP is my dear friend, Lisa's almost holy grail ... sadly, on my skin today, it is not wearing well. It has the distinct odor of perm solution.

Top Notes: Saffron, Coriander
Middle Notes: Moroccan Rose, Jasmin, Magnolia, Ylang Ylang, White Gardenia
Base Notes: Vetiver, Amber, Musk

I think I will change into Dioressence a little later, stay tuned ...

As I said on the SoTD thread, I couldn't decide between two scents for today's Sniff & Speak, a new love and an old favorite, so I've decided to cheat and wear both, the first as my SoTD, the second as my SoTE. Will post my thoughts on the first, Guerlain's Bois d'Armenie now, and will speak more to Givenchy's Ystatis later, after it's had its way with me!!

Although listed as a "sophisticated, woody oriental" on OzMoz, I believe the combination of wood and patchouli bump it into the "chypre" category. Also, I remember reading something about parfumer Annick Menard using other ingredients in Bois d'Armenie to substitute for the now-outlawed oakmoss.

Top note : Frankincense, Iris, Pink Pepper

Middle note : Gaiac Wood, (Saintwood), Benzoin, Coriander

Base note : Patchouli, Copahu Balm, Musk


My goodness, I love this fragrance. I've historically had a tempestuous relationship with the house of Guerlain... And think I tempted fate by buying this one blind as one of my last hurrahs before buying a new van, which put me in an unwilling state of fragrance fiscal austerity... Bought BdA after reading the description and finally finding ONE other Guerlain that I sprayed in Boston's Filene's Basement (Champs Elysees) that didn't morph into overwhelming jasmine/tuberose on me. JaimeB on the men's side was a huge help in finding Bois d'Armenie in the states. To my knowledge, available only one place on each coast in the US: at Neiman's in San Francisco and at Bergdorf's in New York. Suffice it to say that I hope to own some Champs Elysees at some point, but in Bois d'Armenie, I believe I have found MY Guerlain (note to Guerlain fans: I have samples of others and my "Guerlainade-phobia" notwithstanding, plan to jump into the Guerlain Week with both feet, so STAY TUNED! )

Anyhow, on my skin, Bois d'Armenie opens with dark woods on a sweet patchouli/musk base, with light whiffs of incense and spice. Elegant, gorgeous. Not for really hot weather, I think, but for autumn through the first spring flowerings, I think this fragrance is WONDERFUL. It is marketed as a men's scent, which I think is a mistake. To my nose, this is a unisex scent, and I highly recommend it to my fellow wood-note-loving women!

As it dries down, I actually end up pulling some vanilla/tonka notes from this one, although neither's listed. The woods fade, and the base mellows into the most comforting deepness. Still, while intense, it's not heavy. And for those of you who have smelled the room-freshening incense paper on which the scent is based, I think it's a successful version of this for the skin.

like lievje, today i'm in 31 rue cambon, a "new chypre."

my best guess at the notes:

top: bergamot, pepper?
mid: iris, carnation?, incense?
bottom: patchouli?, amber?

it's a little powdery, something i don't typically enjoy, but this smells so refined, so elegant, so RICH. it's rather complex, and it's well blended. i'm finding it very difficult to describe actually. it very much evokes PERFUME; it doesn't smell like food, or flowers, or animals...it smells like perfume. it reminds me, a little, of parfum sacre - i get the same kind of vibe from it. edit: also, like femme, it has a "womanly" smell. maybe there is some cumin?

this is beautiful, and i suspect that those who don't like chypres would like this. time to go put on my corset.

I've been a Mitsouko user for over 20 years, but my love affair with this perfume is waning.

Instead, I've chosen to experiement with Chypre Rouge.

Top note: Thyme, Pine Needles

Middle note: Honey, Beeswax, Jasmine, Fruit Gums

Base note: Patchouli, Moss, Amber, Musks, Vanilla

Some people talk about this scent as having a strong note of candied fruits or pecans, but for me, it is entirely different.
The opening notes of thyme and pine are disconcertingly savoury. Below that is only the faintest hint of anything floral before you hit dirt - the damp, mulchy smell of soil.

It is not a feminine scent, nor an easy scent to wear, but when I applied it I could not stop sniffing my wrist. Even though I ended up buying Ambre Sultan after my first visit to the Lutens counter, this scent haunted me so much I had to return the following weekend and add this, too, to my collection. I wouldn't wear this to seduce, or to party, but for myself.

I do think this would be a good antidote to cat spraying, however!

Montana Parfum d'Elle for evening scent to twin with Zibeline. This has been in my wardrobe for almost a year but has rarely been worn. Notes are:
Top: melon, lemon, mandarin, lime.
Middle: ginger, rosewood, hyacinth, tuberose.
Base: Oakmoss, tonka, vanilla, tobacco.
Very difficult to describe Parfum d'Elle because it is not like anything else in my wardrobe. Development on my skin goes from citrus - floral then ginger kicks in. Drydown is quite complex as melon, lemon, hyacinth and tuberose (subdued here) are warmed by ginger above a mossy vanilla base. It smells quite 'continental' to me and I think a hot climate would perhaps bring out the best in Parfum d'Elle. There is something about this scent which reminds me of showergels and soaps I have bought and used when on holiday in Spain. I don't love Parfum d'Elle but I might take it on holiday with me!

Beautiful.
That is a perfect description of old-school Chypres.
Then you understand the point I was making about Mitsouko. Thank you.
I could not have explained it better. This is how the "old" chypes were different from the current ones.

Creamy, smooth base--yes, yes, a thousand times yes.
Soft, with notes melded together, a golden melange, gentle and sun-warmed. Righto!
The current emphasis seems to be on "stand-out" notes--sour, salty, woody, bitter--that are juxtaposed with the sweetness rather than blended into it.
For example, Narciso Rodrigues for Her EDP has a vetiver peach.
Une Folie de Rose has a patchouli rose.
Agent Provocateur has a vetiver rose.

The old ones were calmer somehow.
The fruits were at least golden, and at most creamy.
And the bases ended up sweet, I tell you.
I think this genre would have more fans if they went back to the roots and started emphasizing that characteristic again.

As for me, I like woodiness, so I will continue to wear the current Chypres. But I like creaminess and sweetness, too.
And I will say this: It takes alot more talent to come up with a chypre that ends up gentle and sun-warmed, rather than an attention-getting mix of clashing notes.

I might reveal my bourgeois roots here, but I'm going to say this anyway:
In the end, a perfume should be pretty.
And art should be beautiful.

Well I started the day like Moondeva with Chypre de Coty. I am not at all sure how old my one is; probably 1950s or '60s or so, and who knows whether it in any way resembles its ancestor.

To me, the mark of a chypre is in it's texture; I sort of get a cross-wiring in the brain between scent and texture, and therefore to me chypres have a pile, like velvet or corduroy - I can sort of run the er, fingers of my nose through it! I get the same effect from pure oakmoss extracts. The pile of Chypre is quite crude; it is not smooth, but more ragged and chunky. Wearing it, I get the occasional utterly sublime whiff; next time I wear this I am going to do what is recommended on the box; just spray/splash it all over my body before dressing! It really begs to be treated like this rather than worn in localised spritzes. It is the scent spiraling off my warm body that is so enchanting, rather than the smell of Chypre, which is not so outstanding in itself. It isn't listed in the notes, but I swear I can smell lavender in this one; in fact if I had to sum Chypre up, I would say that it is the chypre'd version of a classic eau de Cologne. The charm is in the contrasts between its notes, not in their seamless blending.

Later I tried some Y, again a vintage, just to make clear to myself the difference. However, whichever, it seems that today is one of those days when Y vanishes on me; gorgeous for an hour or so and then, just when the fruits are settling in, -nothing. Since on other days it remains loud and clear (and with a deep velvet-smooth pile!) for hours, I hesitated to spray any more in case unawares I knocked out all and sundry at the supermarket.

Finally this evening I am wearing Perles de Lalique, because I couldn't find La Perla which I had meant to use. I really rate this, and although it quite clearly has less oakmoss than either Chypre or Y, it has all the hallmarks of a chypre; texture (it sort of makes me want to bite it!), and that changeability as different aspects come to the fore, although it does eventually settle rather quietly into a woody rose.

The Agent Provocateur didn't work out so well today, so now I'm wearing Dioressence. (still not a "true" Chypre, is it? )

I bought my bottle on ebay, so I'm not sure how old it is, but it is the old style of bottle. It is EDT. I keep hearing how the newer version is just a shadow of the vintage, I'm pretty sure that mine is vintage ...

Here are the notes according to OsMoz (slightly different than BN directory):
Top note : Aldehydes, Green Note, Orange, Bergamot
Middle note : Carnation, Geranium, Rose, Cinnamom
Base note : Benzoin, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Vanilla

This is a Chypre that oriental-loving girls like me can like. Dioressence walks both sides of the street. A touch soapy at first, a bit powdery a little later. There is a distinct spiciness to Dioressence, but is it more the cinnamon or the carnation? It does not have a heavy floral feel to me. The drydown is softened by the vanilla and benzoin, but it doesn't become overly sweet, in fact there is something a little masculine to it. This has some BIG sillage, especially in the first few hours of wearing.

I'll try that! I don't have too many chypres....I could try Spring Rain, it gives me a chpyre feel.

The magic trick to the chypres may actually be the animalic notes (castoreum, civet) in the base of the blend... To your cat it probably smells like a bigger and badder tom cat is in town. Cats also prefer a 'clean' area to go toilet in so the animalic elements along with the moss probably smells like the area has already been 'used' and therefore is no longer attractive / suitable.

This really is a great fragrance and I enjoyed wearing it today! With a montana scent you can be sure that you won't be scent twins with half the women in the room...but it's nice having a scent twin today that appreciates it. I'm quite surprised that it has survived.

As promised, putting in for my SoTE: Givency's Ysatis..

This is one of those "surprise" gut-instinct scents for me... Sprayed it on in a department store a few years ago, wandered around for 20 minutes and came back and bought a bottle. Later discovered that it contains BOTH of my "dreaded" notes: jasmine and tuberose, though not in high enough quantities (or perhaps with enough other notes I adore) to make this one of my favorite fragrances ever. For me, it is more sweet spicy than woody, and deeply, deeply satisfying:

Top note : Mandarin, Galbanum, Rosewood, Coconut

Middle note : Tuberose, Jasmine, Narcissus, Carnation

Base note : Patchouli, Sandal, Castoreum, Civet

In my community, there is a ceremony that separates the sabbath from the rest of the week, and it incorporates all of the senses: the sound of song, the sight of a candle flame dancing in the evening shadows; the feel of the flame's warmth; the taste of sweet wine or juice; and the smell of sweet spices to make the whole experience more pleasant... Tonight, I offered my Ysatis-drenched wrist to several friends who weren't close enough to the "standard spices" (usually cinnamon and cloves, sometimes with vanilla bean) for a good sniff... And they all said it was perfect.

I have to admit that after today's epiphany with Chypre de Coty, I now view chypre formulations in three major tiers:

Classic (true) Chypres
These are the golden, sun-drenched nostalgic beauties of yesteryear including the original formulations of many great Chypres and many long departed beauties. These must include oakmoss, labdanum (amber), patchouli and citrus to be labelled as such.
Typical Classic (true) Chypres include: Chypre de Coty, The Body Shop Chypre, Guerlain Mitsouko (vintage), Jean Patou Colony, Rochas Femme (vintage), Gres Cabochard (vintage), Pierre Cardin Choc EDP

Traditional Chypres
These are the distinctive drier, mossier chypres that many of us have considered true chypres as they have been the only ones widely available in our lifetimes. These include the quiet reformulations of many great Chypres. Traditional Chypres hark back to the 1940s and the last heyday of chypres throughout the 80s and early 1990s. To be labelled as Traditional Chypres these must include (oak)moss and patchouli but citrus and labdanum (amber) were optional.
Typical Traditional Chypres include: Chanel Cristalle, Dior Diorella, Guerlain Mitsouko EDT, Rochas Femme, Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum, Gres Cabochard, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Fendi Donna, Parlux Animale For Her, Ungaro Diva


New Chypres
These are the rather controversial future of the label chypre. These may be classified as Chypres but they have very little in common with the Classic or Traditional Chypre. New Chypres are a modern development to convey gravitas and legitimacy to a range of scents that have nothing much incommon with the heart of this scent family except by name. The New Chypre genre of scents is still very much in its fledgling stages so there is much confusion as to what actually constitutes a New Chypre. To be labelled as New Chypre these must include patchouli but citrus and labdanum (amber) are optional, (oak / tree ) moss is not allowed. The green, earthy 'tang' of the moss is now sometimes provided by vetiver or iris.
Typical New Chypres include: Dior Miss Dior Cherie (Fruity Floral), Narciso Rodriguez Narciso Rodriguez For Her (Woody / Floral Musk), Chanel 31 Rue Cambon (Aldehydic Floral), Chanel Coco Mademoiselle (Rich Floral), Guerlain Bois d'Armenie (Spicy Wood), Agent Provocateur By Agent Provocateur (Green Spicy Floral)

This confirms for me that the only way I am going to continue to enjoy chypre perfumes as I understand them is to buy vintage / old stock, buy from independent perfumers (AL,DSH, AM, etc) or create my own. So be it, because there is no way that the non-moss blends that are being released under the banner of New Chypre are an acceptable substitute for those true Chypre lovers, like myself, who have known and loved the Classic & Traditional Chypres that have gone before...

Today I wore Montale's Chypre Vanille. It was heavenly when I first applied it, but the drydown smelled a little weird on my skin after about 30 minutes. the sillage/longevity was also not very good, so I must not have applied enough. After a few hours I decided to go with Musc Ravageur for a parfum touch-up. Tomorrow will be more Montale!

I indulged myself and wore two other Chypres today.

Ava Luxe Moss EDP

This is a wonderful little delight and a wonderful example of a better modern take on the Classic (true) Chypre theme. Much brighter and rawer than the mellow ancestor I wore earlier, this is still a wonderfully evocative scent of the past. The rawness may be due to the fact that the oakmoss has not had a chance to mellow over time and have that priceless synergy occur that gives many great chypres their unmistakable luxe patina. Or may be the oakmoss used is synthetic. I think actually that it might be the ommission of civet (as found in the original Chypre de Coty) that causes it to sit prettily upon the skin rather than meld with it. The ambergris gives it a wonderful powdery vintage feel but ultimately there is something strangely soulless about this scent for me...
I fear it may be that my senses were prejudiced by the sublime experience I had earlier with Chypre de Coty. Coupled with the fact that it's bright optimism and effervescent puts me in mind of summer days (I believe that may be the perfect time to wear it), means that I shall reserve judgement until I have worn it a few more times. Especially without the huge example of Chypre de Coty to follow.

Parlux Animale For Women
Top note: Bergamot oil, Coriander, Green Note, Hyacinth, Rosewood
Heart notes: Carnation, Honey, Jasmin, Lily of the Valley, Orris, Rose, Ylang-Ylang
Base notes: Castoreum, Cistus oil, Civet, Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Vetiver

This is a great chypre blend create in the image of a typical late 80's chypre floral-animalic blend. Animale For Women is a Traditional Chypre which I found to be very reminiscent of Jacomo Parfum Rare, Balenciaga Rumba and Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum. Luckily it is much sheerer and less potent then most of these, making it much 'easier' to wear. A great one to have in the collection. I would / will definitely wear again but sadly its very wearability is its downfall. When craving a green, mossy, floral-animalic chypre there are many more distinctive, unique more memorable scents that I would find myself reaching for...

Want the whole truth? If there were nothing else but chypres, I would be just fine! There are so many of them to choose from, and I feel blessed that their coolness likes my warm skin. Sometimes I do not feel like I am worth wearing them, because they are much much better than, say, my shoes, or my hairdo, or my jewelry. In other words, I understand that often times I am not put together enough to pull them off, but they intrigue me to no end by their assertiveness and self-sufficience. They whisper and never yell (well, sometimes they do, but on the positive note, it is brief), they are honest and never beat around the bush, they are unpredictable and capricious, they can be distant and demanding in an opulent sort of way... They smell of earth and woods, and flowers/fruit is just a cherry on the topping.

Have been chypre-ing for the whole week, and for our SnS was debating between the two of my all-time favorites: Coriandre and Paloma. I refuse to be without either one, but this time Paloma Picasso won! In the course of about 13 years I tried it in EdT, EdP and perfume. Right now I have it in perfume (Taolady sent it to me!) and EdT, and I started the day with perfume and added some EdT right before going to work, so Shy and Shades could probably smell me where they live! It starts sharp with smokey and dark bergamot, penetrating hyacinth and a bit of coriandre. Its sharpness feels almost like broken glass/mirror pieces, with their "Look! Do not touch us!" straightforwardness. After about 30 minutes this coolness morphs into huge thorns crowning the most smoldering red rose one can ever imagine, opening up its petals one by one, and showing its astoundingly sensual heart, while ylang-ylang and dryest woods form just a nice vulnerable but solid frame. There is also animalic theme going on, and this combo of civet, castoreum, moss, honey (especially in perfume!) and tobacco is the most puzzling! On a rare occasion I can barely stand it, and have to simply put up with them because I know and like the fact that the ROSE is there and should be emerging any time now, but most times it is pure delight and today was not an exception. The longevity is superb -- days, not hours -- and the price is rather cheap, especially for the EdT at Marshall's (was it 24.99 for 50ml or so?), which is not a very good sign by itself: it is going away from the department stores. Paloma is not for everybody, but if there is love -- it is an on-going affair, including all senses and brain.

Random thought of the day: if I am ever going to buy a hat, which color should it be, red or black? I need a pair of gloves, too!

First, an apology is in order for never having visited the Women's forum, but I have to admit, my visit is somewhat happenstance. In my desire for better understanding, I did a search for several fragrance categories, while not exactly what I was looking for, much of what I am looking for is contained within this thread. I'll be sure to visit more often as the "Which frag makes chicks horny" and "What are you favorite top 50" threads get a bit tiring.

Back on topic...Coincidentally, I actually did wear a Chypre today...I think. Kiton Men, oak moss throughout, but blended nicely with black pepper and some middle floral notes. In the same vain as GIT, but quite a bit less harsh or sharp making Kiton Men...wearable.

I followed moondeva's suggestion and wore Maxim's Pour Homme last night.

Top notes - bergamot, lavender
Middle notes - cedar, sandalwood, floral notes (jasmin?)
Base notes - patchouli, moss, musk

Clary sage is not listed in the pyramid, but I get it strongly in the first few hours. It's not generally a favourite note but its vegetal savouriness works well here.

Overall, the opening is very heady and a bit overpowering. The sharpness of the headnotes soon overlaps with the spicy cedary notes, these are rounded out by the santal and florals. In the basenotes the dominant note is the accord of patchouli and moss. It is complex and has an interesting 'narrative arc'. The drydown is wonderful and reminds me of Chanel Pour Monsieur - in fact Maxim's could be it's louche, Gitane-smoking, jazz-club-frequenting Parisian cousin.

Hi CuyahogaJoe and michaeld39! Thanks for stopping by.
We do this on the first Saturday of every month. It lets us talk about our favorite fragrances in each olfactive group and also about the entire genre. We are glad that you included some men's fragrances in the discussion.
......

You know, Chypres are a fascinating subject, and a group of perfumes that I cannot live without.
Amid the reformulations and changing definitions of the genre, I am happy that so many knowledgeable people are here making suggestions about which way to go. Thanks, Moondeva, for your insight. This Sniff and Speak was especially interesting to me.

Twolf, I had to laugh in agreement with your statement about your attire being undeserving of your fragrance. That is "me" every day. I smell expensive. But I look like (um...) black jeans and a t-shirt.
I sure hope no one ever messes with my Paloma Picasso. If they ever reformulate that one, I will scream. The honey, the tobacco, the rose and hyacinth. The castoreum.
It screams for awhile. My skin conquors it. And then it purrs for hours.

Better late than never, eh?

Finally got down to wearing Mitsouko and it's great. I don't know whether my Mitsouko EdP is old stock or not, I got it in a swap a couple of years ago. Whatever version it is, it smells gorgeous: warm, sunny peach (more like dried peach than fresh fruit) lurking from the murky depths of vetiver...

As Tigrushka, better late than never. I couldn't miss the chypre sniff 'n speak.

During the day on Saturday, I wore a new chypre favorite - Eau Suave by Parfum D'Empire (2005), inspired by Empress Josephine of France. I generally never set out looking for chypres, but they always find me, which was the case with Eau Suave. After trying a free sample of this, I actually thought it was masculine, and was surprised to see it was feminine, and a chypre. This is a new-type chypre, though I'm not sure what the earthy bottom notes are coming from. Though I haven't seen leather listed as an ingredient, this becomes a dry rose leather on me, and is cerebral and sensual. Since leather is a sub-category of the chypre genre, it's not surprising I would smell leather in this. I noticed some reviews commented or objected to its fruity quality, but I didn't pick that up on my skin.
The ingredient list:
Top note: Coriander; Saffron; Fruity, Spicy and Tea Roses
Middle note: Honeyed Apricot; Peach; Raspberry; Pepper
Base note: Vanilla; White MusK; Wood notes (Cypress)

In the evening, I wore my favorite true chypre (by moondeva's category), Profumo by Acqua Di Parma, created in 1939. This is in the tradition of the warmer, fuller, rounder early chypres having a prominent floral heart, and mildly sweet, mossy floral drydown. I think this one is a class act, and each time I wear it Profumo smells different, which is probably because of it's library of notes. It's description states it contains over 300 ingredients.

The most I could find in the way of an ingredient list was:
Top - bergamot, bitter orange, petitgrain, lavender, sage
Heart - honeysuckle, neroli, jasmine, ylang-ylang, iris, rose, cinnamon, clove, cardamom
Base - amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, frankincense, cedar.

Profumo carries the stamp of the early chypres, and possesses a certain intelligence and largeness of character. It is full, rich, deep, refined yet large. Its drydown doesn't border on woody as many do today. It is, well, a chypre drydown. It also carries another stamp of its time - aldehydes - and brings to mind other great aldehydics of that era. Sometimes I love that aldehydic sillage, and sometimes can't wear it at all because it makes me sneeze too much. When I can wear it well, Profumo is magnificent. When I can't deal with the aldehydes it becomes too much. Fortunately, Saturday evening it was a pleasure to wear and fitting next to the slight smokiness of a wood fire.