This thread usually comes out in autumn when the chypres start their siren song, but I admire someone who wants to talk chypre in the spring
The thing I appreciate about classic chypres besides the general fragrance is their unique drydown. It's a deep dryish oakmoss/vetiver or patchouli/submerged floral affair.
one chypre I wear mainly in the spring and summer - Comme Une Evidence
by Yves Rocher, a lily-of-the-valley fragrance.
Favorite classic chypres:Profumo
by Acqua Di Parma - Don't even try to sample this until autumn. It needs cool weather. When it works it's sublime.Fendi
- I just tried it in the parfum two months ago, and found it to be exquisite at that formulation, everything a chypre lover likes. I found it to be just a little too ashy in the other formulationsBandit
- Grrrr. Oh yeah. Me bad. Not sexy, just bad. Sexy is a collateral thing with this fragrance.Jolie Madame
- the grand dame. Absolutely classic.Mitsouko
- wonderful, evocative.Black Aoud
- this is listed as a chypre because of the moss.
Fresh Chypres:Eau Dynamisante
Treatment Fragrance - so fresh, natural, invigorating. I use it a lot.Eau De Soir
I have a problem with the term 'new chypre' and ultimately don't consider them authentic chypres, as I feel oakmoss is the defining ingredient, absolutely indispensable. I suppose in the evolution away from the classic chypre the powers to be needed a hook to hang their revisionist concepts on, though 'Neo-chypre' might have been a better term. That being said, there are many of them I like. But they don't have the same feel, and they don't have as distinctive a drydown. They really are closer in quality to what?... the woody oriental? than the classic chypres.
Favorite new Chypres:Agent Provocateur
- sexy, rosy, spicyOpone
- Rose, wood, equatorial spice and heat
Djuna - you're correct. Leather is a subcategory of chypre, but they are so distinctive that if the leather predominates, they're usually called leathers instead of leather chypres. Leather chypres are ones in which leather is a component.