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Un Brin de Reglisse by Hermes: the 7th Hermessence

post #1 of 25
10/4/07 at 2:48pm
Thread Starter 
News of the latest Hermessence scent from Hermes has been posted online:

http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scenteds...by_hermes.html

I am extremely excited! I think you all already know that I am fond of Jean Claude Ellena, I own five of the six existing Hermessence fragrances and I like jasmine.

Yay!

Don't mind me...[[[skipping around the room]]]
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post #2 of 25
10/4/07 at 3:14pm
Sounds nice. Love and own Vetiver Tonka, liked Ambre Narguile but decided it was more subtle than I wished, didn't like Osmanthe Yunnan, not tested the rose one yet and need to re-test the other two. Anyway, have you any idea when this will be available Mike?
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post #3 of 25
10/4/07 at 4:46pm
The Hermes boutiques are saying mid to late November.

Chris
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post #4 of 25
10/4/07 at 6:19pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishercb View Post

The Hermes boutiques are saying mid to late November.

Chris

Well, with Tom Ford for Men Extreme and this new Hermessence both coming in November - it should be a quite good smelling month!
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post #5 of 25
10/4/07 at 6:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

News of the latest Hermessence scent from Hermes has been posted online:

http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scenteds...by_hermes.html

I am extremely excited! I think you all already know that I am fond of Jean Claude Ellena, I own five of the six existing Hermessence fragrances and I like jasmine.

Yay!

Don't mind me...[[[skipping around the room]]]

Damn...I don't like lavender or licorice.

What is the jasmin you mentioned referring to?
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post #6 of 25
10/6/07 at 4:33pm
Well guys and gals maybe the dates are different for UK and USA boutiques but today I went into the Manchester (UK) Hermes boutique to give Paprika Brasil another test run and to my surprise there was a bottle of Un Brin de Reglisse in the tester cabinet. They told me it was due out this month and arrived earlier in the week. Naturally it comes in the same style Hermessence bottle but the chosen colour for the labelling for this is a blueish purple (and yes you can get the matching colour leather sleeve). I didn't really want to try it because I'd already doused myself in my SoD Frank 2 BUT I was so excited I just couldn't resist so I gave it a quick whiz. I'm not as poetic and skilled at describing fragrances as some of you great guys and gals here but my initial impression was that it starts out with a blast of bitter licorice and lavender with the licorice more predominant. Then after about 5 or 10 mins the lavender note stands out more and the licorice starts the go more into the background and at this point I'm thinking to myself that its now starting to remind me of the opening of Antiheros by Etat Libre d'Orange (another lavender fragrance) but with a bit of licorice/anise in the mix. I couldn't really pick any other notes. Just like most of this line, on me anyway, it stays very close to the skin and I always think that if these scents were clothes they'd be veils. Longevity was about 5 hrs.

Andy
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post #7 of 25
10/6/07 at 4:41pm
I really don't like licorice, sigh.
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post #8 of 25
10/6/07 at 9:41pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Healer View Post

Well guys and gals maybe the dates are different for UK and USA boutiques but today I went into the Manchester (UK) Hermes boutique to give Paprika Brasil another test run and to my surprise there was a bottle of Un Brin de Reglisse in the tester cabinet.

OMG. Maybe my local Hermes boutique has a tester?!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Andy...
--------------------------------------
What does the name mean, in English?
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post #9 of 25
10/22/07 at 9:22pm
Thread Starter 
The SA at my Hermes boutique in Bal Harbour told me (firmly) that the scent and testers will not be in stock until mid November.

[sigh]

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post #10 of 25
10/22/07 at 9:24pm
Bummer. On the bright side, atleast this thread of yours hasn't been sidetracked with off-topic comments.

Hopefully you can get back to us with impressions soon.
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post #11 of 25
10/22/07 at 10:57pm
Oh, I am looking forward to trying this! I still haven't found a lavender fragrance that I want to add to my permanent collection, and I have tried many. I can't wait to see what Jean Claude Ellena has done with lavender. Apparently, an intense dry lavender is the dominant note, and there is also "a bit of licorice" (a translation of the fragrance name), orange blossom, and hay.
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post #12 of 25
10/23/07 at 9:20am
I'm in London on Thursday - I'll see if they have a sample to take away... They've definitely got it in store - I just called to check.
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post #13 of 25
10/23/07 at 10:13am
I tried this last week at Hermes in Toronto.

Starts off...and stays true to the two ingredients...lavender with a sharp licorice note. I sprayed this on one wrist, and re-tried Paprika Brasil on the other. It didn't develop much at all...started off quite harsh ans strong...and about an hour later, I could just barely detect anything at all! Paprika Brasil, on the other hand, was still going strong when I went to bed.

Essentially...if you like anise/licorice with a lavender base, you'll love it. Otherwise, pass.

Pretty purple hue to the bottle though.
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post #14 of 25
10/23/07 at 4:04pm
I've completely given up on the Hermessence line, now. My main complaint being that they are far too subtle / close to the skin for my liking. For the price that Hermes is charging, I expect more sillage.
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post #15 of 25
10/23/07 at 4:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trebor View Post

I've completely given up on the Hermessence line, now. My main complaint being that they are far too subtle / close to the skin for my liking. For the price that Hermes is charging, I expect more sillage.

I like the fact that they're subtle and stay close...fits in with Hermes' asthetic. I'm confused as to how something that opens with such a pungent smell can fade so quickly?

Now that I think about it though...Poivre Samarcande is really the only one I like or would/have every buy/bought.
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post #16 of 25
10/23/07 at 5:33pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trebor View Post

I've completely given up on the Hermessence line, now. My main complaint being that they are far too subtle / close to the skin for my liking. For the price that Hermes is charging, I expect more sillage.

Hermessence scents (or for that matter Jean Claude Ellena scents) are not for everyone. However, Ambre Narguile, one of the Hermessences is a powerhouse of a fragrance. It has longevity and extremely strong sillage. It's not a scent for everyone, but it is not 'subtle'.
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post #17 of 25
11/18/07 at 11:03pm
What happened to this thread?
What do you think about "Brin de Réglisse"?
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post #18 of 25
11/18/07 at 11:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trebor View Post

I've completely given up on the Hermessence line, now. My main complaint being that they are far too subtle / close to the skin for my liking. For the price that Hermes is charging, I expect more sillage.

Amen.

This scents are like dishwater to me, and I don't care how "well made" they are or how much they use "quality ingredients" or how big a genius JCH is.

Until they make some scents with some balls, my money will go elsewhere.
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post #19 of 25
11/19/07 at 1:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butthead53 View Post

Amen.

Until they make some scents with some balls, my money will go elsewhere.

Right!
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post #20 of 25
11/19/07 at 7:56am
I finally had a chance to test this with a few samples from the Hermès boutique, and while the fragrance itself is beautiful - the lavender and licorice harmonize very attractively - it disappeared on my skin completely in little more than an hour. Repeated testings (spraying, dabbing) had the same result, and I gather from reviews from Leopoldo and Ayala that they had identical reactions. I don't think anyone would argue with Ellena's choice of transparency and subtlety as a valid aesthetic, but Brin de Réglisse, to an even greater degree than a few of the other Hermessences (Paprika Brasil, especially), seems to function more as an abstraction - a perfume Gedanken, to borrow a useful term from philosophy/physics - than as something that is actually meant to be worn. Especially disappointing because, as everyone seems to agree, it'd be a wonderful frag, otherwise.
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post #21 of 25
11/19/07 at 12:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morgan Creek View Post

... - a perfume Gedanken, to borrow a useful term from philosophy/physics - than something that is actually meant to be worn...

like that one
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post #22 of 25
11/19/07 at 12:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morgan Creek View Post

I don't think anyone would argue with Ellena's choice of transparency and subtlety as a valid aesthetic, but Brin de [/SIZE][SIZE=-1]Réglisse, to an even greater degree than a few of the other Hermessences (Paprika Brasil, especially), seem to function more as an abstraction - a perfume Gedanken, to borrow a useful term from philosophy/physics - than something that is actually meant to be worn.

Danke schön! I had the same experience with Ambre Narguilé.
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post #23 of 25
11/19/07 at 9:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

Danke schön! I had the same experience with Ambre Narguilé.

?!! Do you mean it doesn't last an all?
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post #24 of 25
11/19/07 at 9:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by msi_21 View Post

?!! Do you mean it doesn't last an all?

No, it lasts for awhile. But, I think the point is, due to its high price tag, one could only wish that it was more of a finished product, in the sense that it addresses longevity and sillage, rather than just smelling good in the immediate moment.
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post #25 of 25
11/19/07 at 10:11pm

Perfumer Bernard Chant created very successful and much admired and much copied fragrances such as Cabochard (1959), Aromatics Elixir (1972), Aramis (1965), Devin (1978), and in conjunction with Estee Lauder put American fragrances on the map with their much higher concentration of perfume oils than European competitors, which in the 1970s and 1980s forced French perfumers to produce stronger formulations, Opium being a case in point with its 19% concentration of parfum oils for the Eau de Toilette version, which is higher than most of today's Eaux de Parfum.

Here's Chant's opening statement when he addressed the British Society of Perfumers in 1983: "I think we perfumers have a real responsibility to help our industry grow by giving the public the fragrances that make new statements, that have good diffusion and that last a long time."

I think in the context of the discussion of Ellena's fragrances thus far, I would have to agree with most posters and with Chant.

Vétiver Tonka out of all the Hermèssence line has, for me at least, the best projection and the best duration.

scentemental
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