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Guerlain Héritage Eau de Parfum: A Review

post #1 of 24
10/12/07 at 3:05pm
Thread Starter 
Just arrived in the mail today. (I couldn't wait to open the package!) It's not available in the States (at least not yet), and more's the pity.

Not surprisingly, it's darker and somewhat sweeter than Héritage edt. The patchouli is not as pronounced, but there is a strong civet or civet-like note which I don't recall in the edt version -- something animalic and dark. It dries down beautifully, though -- don't expect lingering civet lurking all day.

Lovely frag here -- wears very close to the skin, though, and this surprised me. I was expecting a total sillage monster after the edt (which is already loud and wonderful on me). But this was not the case with the edp. The longevity is incredible, granted, but don't expect to buy it and walk around in a cloud of Héritage as so many of us do with the edt.

I really like the edp so far, but I'm going to give it another full day of wearing before I render my final verdict and see if it makes its way into my "pantheon" or not. (Héritage edt is already there -- at the very least, perhaps the two might end up standing neck to neck there.)
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post #2 of 24
10/12/07 at 3:22pm
I tried the EdP of Habit Rouge in Paris and it fits the same description. I could kick myself for not buying it at Duty Free. I think they clip away the top notes and build up the base for the EdP versions. They are wonderful.
Enjoy!
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post #3 of 24
10/12/07 at 3:31pm
I've had the same experience with L'Instant Extreme. On me it feels very subtle with no major sillage. However, when my BF wears it, I can smell it miles away at late afternoon. Also, I wore it and friends of mine were going crazy about this nice perfume I wore, even though I couldn't smell a thing I'm curious to know what makes you say it wears close to the skin - is it your assessment, or from others?
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post #4 of 24
10/12/07 at 3:41pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jellybean1973 View Post

I've had the same experience with L'Instant Extreme. On me it feels very subtle with no major sillage. However, when my BF wears it, I can smell it miles away at late afternoon. Also, I wore it and friends of mine were going crazy about this nice perfume I wore, even though I couldn't smell a thing I'm curious to know what makes you say it wears close to the skin - is it your assessment, or from others?

Another personal favorite there. I bought a bottle by fluke on eBay, and then suddenly the vendor realized that he'd f*cked up big time. Wish I could get another bottle, as I'm having to nurse this one now. But no, it (the L'Instant edp) is VERY strong on me in terms of both sillage and longevity alike, whereas (again) the edp version of Heritage wears much closer to my skin. (Proviso here: I've yet to wear it in a large group of people.)

A simple question: WHY DOESN'T GUERLAIN OFFER ALL OF ITS EDPs FOR SALE IN THE STATES?

Also, I'd like to know when the hell I can at least TRY Chamade pour Homme without having to spend a fortune to get a bottle in from Paris. (Even the English retailer I've used is out now, and has been for months.)
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post #5 of 24
10/12/07 at 5:58pm
So, like Habit Rouge, is the original concentration the definitive version? What say you tvlampboy ?
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post #6 of 24
10/12/07 at 6:09pm
I received my Heritage EDP in the mail today (thanks, IV). It walked up the steps to my pantheon of scents, kicked out the weak-ass shit that was there, grabbed the remote and made itself at home on the recliner.

This one is here to stay, even if I have to go to Paris for a replacement. I love it.
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post #7 of 24
10/12/07 at 6:10pm
Thread Starter 
I'd say it's the definitive formula, but we patchouli pigs will probably lean toward the edt for that alone -- so perhaps I'm prejudiced.
Factor in the high cost and the difficulty of obtaining the edp here in the States, and it's even harder to say.

I'm by no means sorry to have spent the money, mind you -- it's just that I got rid of my edt this past week on my sales thread and am now going to have to get more of it.

I'll probably end up saving the edp for formal events and meeting with clients. For the day-to-day side of my work, I'll likely go with the edt.

It's funny, as I far prefer the Opium pour Homme edp, and also the L'Instant edp (although the latter is VERY sweet, VERY Oriental, and QUITE romantic/not appropriate for office wear often.) I can't say that I prefer the edt to the edp version with the Heritage, though -- it's just that they're horses of two different colors in terms of a) sillage and b) patchouli content.

*******
JUST ADDED SERGE LUTENS' DAIM BLOND AND CARTIER'S PASHA TO MY SALES THREAD -- CHECK IT OUT:
http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=200065
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post #8 of 24
10/13/07 at 12:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by zztopp View Post

So, like Habit Rouge, is the original concentration the definitive version?

Habit Rouge EdP is a totally new, and much later, reformulation (probably not made by Jean Paul Guerlain, the creator) of the original scent, while Héritage EdP is 'just' a more concentrated version of the EdT, made from the outset by Jean Paul Guerlain.
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post #9 of 24
10/13/07 at 4:45am
Thread Starter 
Mr. Guerlain:
Am I correct in assuming that there's a heavy dose of civet here that's not in the original, or is it just that it's now concentrated?
Or is there no civet there at all, and I'm just going nuts?
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post #10 of 24
10/13/07 at 5:07am
I love Heritage edp. It's more smooth and solid than the edt.
I get no civet though. What I do smell when I just sprayed it on , is a heavy dose of lavender and pepper....I think. Than the lavender note goes away and the rest of the notes set in.
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post #11 of 24
10/13/07 at 5:10am
Thread Starter 
I must be going mad, then, as I get less vanilla and then something very deep and animalic, almost fecal. I had assumed it could only be civet.

Don't misunderstand me -- I like civet in its place (e.g., the old Gentleman, Ungaro II etc.). And I like this note here, as well.
I just don't remember detecting it in the original.
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post #12 of 24
10/13/07 at 6:08am
Here is an thread with some useful info:

http://community.basenotes.net/showt...light=heritage

I remember another one prior to that but I can't find it now

It may be that the "civet" is actually moss??

edit: here is a good one http://community.basenotes.net/showt...t=heritage+edp

still not the one I'm remembering though.
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post #13 of 24
10/13/07 at 7:16am
****
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post #14 of 24
10/13/07 at 10:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvlampboy View Post

Just arrived in the mail today. (I couldn't wait to open the package!) It's not available in the States (at least not yet), and more's the pity.


A very minor correction: the EDP is no longer available in the US. It was available many moons ago at Neiman Marcus, where my bottle was purchased. It came in a very handsome gold colored "sleeve" container. The bottle containing the juice could be replaced when the juice ran out. I have no idea if the current bottle available overseas fits in the old sleeve container, but would be interested in finding out.
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post #15 of 24
10/13/07 at 10:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by scentemental View Post

****


I hate it when you do that
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post #16 of 24
10/13/07 at 10:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by levente View Post

A very minor correction: the EDP is no longer available in the US. It was available many moons ago at Neiman Marcus, where my bottle was purchased. It came in a very handsome gold colored "sleeve" container. The bottle containing the juice could be replaced when the juice ran out. I have no idea if the current bottle available overseas fits in the old sleeve container, but would be interested in finding out.

Now, the edp bottle comes in a regular shape 75 ml bottle ,as shown in this pic.
http://www.douglas.de/DGCatProductPa...oduct_Id=28810

I guess this wont fit into the'92 version ,gold holder.
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post #17 of 24
10/13/07 at 11:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post

I hate it when you do that

Sorry about that hirch_duckfinder. I posted my SOTD on this thread by accident.

Let me contribute to this thread then as a way of apologizing.

The new bottle will not fit into the original refill holder.

The original refill juice is superior (not by much, but it is superior) to the non-refill current bottle whose juice has undergone some reformulation.

scentemental
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post #18 of 24
10/13/07 at 1:12pm
Eric and scentemental,

Thanks for your responses, even if yours, scentemental, was only as an apology for deleting your prior thread
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post #19 of 24
10/13/07 at 2:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by scentemental View Post

Sorry about that hirch_duckfinder. I posted my SOTD on this thread by accident.

Let me contribute to this thread then as a way of apologizing.

The new bottle will not fit into the original refill holder.

The original refill juice is superior (not by much, but it is superior) to the non-refill current bottle whose juice has undergone some reformulation.

scentemental


Thanks scentemental. . I had just referenced one of your threads and another where you had a significant input so I wondered if you had commented on that and then changed your mind or something.

Do you know when the reform took place?
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post #20 of 24
10/13/07 at 3:07pm
I was kinda expecting someone would mention and compare the old versus to the new version, etc.. Anteus, Obsesion,..hell why not Heritage.
In case of Obsession it may be true,
BUT in this case I have to say, I have some left of the old Heritage edp version, and compared it side by side with my brand new edp version bottle. And , sorry, but no, to me there are no differences. In fact, if I had to choose, I'd choose my new version bottle since it smells more intense , and newer, than my old bottle.

Just my impression ofcourse.
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post #21 of 24
10/13/07 at 7:00pm

I have an unused, vintage Héritage refill bottle, which I just sprayed for the first time today and just discovered for the first time today when I saw this thread that there is a noticeable difference between the vintage and the reformulated version. The reformulation, as is the case with most Guerlains, is well done and carefully done, and while the qualitative difference between the two fragrances is not pronounced, the reformulated version is not as same as the original. It never is.

The vintage Héritage is more natural smelling, richer, smoother, with the animalic component less prominent and more fully integrated into the overall accord, and the drydown is brighter and softer. I suspect this is the case because like a lot of the Guerlains, the reformulation was tweaked to take into account the new safety concerns over various ingredients as well as costs. (Turin has posted on this feature of Guerlain fragrances.) The "intensity" of the reformulation that you draw attention to is, to my nose, the function of aroma chemicals substitutions of older more natural ingredients. I am sure the Oakmoss/Treemoss balance has been tweaked in the newer version. To my nose, it makes the reformulation a little more jagged, less jaunty, slightly unbalanced. It also sounds like your vintage bottle of Héritage has lost its luster because mine certainly has it and has it in abundance.

To my nose, the vintage version Héritage is different and is superior, but, hey, that's just my impression, of course.

For those who are interested in differences in formulation, I am working on a detailed comparison of a number of fragrances and the differences between the vintage versions and the updated reformulated versions. Stay tuned.

Fragrances include the following:

 Cacharel Pour L’Homme
Caron The Third Man
Cartier Must de Cartier EDT
Cartier Santos de Cartier
Cartier Santos de Cartier Concentrée
Chanel Égoïste
Chanel No. 19 EDT
Czech & Speake Cuba
Czech & Speake No. 88
Dior Jules
Guerlain Derby
Guerlain Habit Rouge EDC
Guerlain Habit Rouge EDT
Guerlain Héritage
Guerlain Vetiver EDT
Hermès Bel Ami
L’Occitane Neroli EDP
L’Occitane Vétyver
 Molyneux Captain Molyneux
Nina Ricci Signoricci
Nina Ricci Signoricci 2
Nino Cerruti Pour Homme
Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui
Rochas Eau de Rochas Pour Homme
Ungaro Pour L’Homme III
Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme

scentemental

P.S. Hirch_duckfinder, I have no idea when the reformulation occurred. I suspect sometime in the last 5 to 7 years, but that's just a guess. Classic Guerlain fragrances tend to have a very anfractuous history.
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post #22 of 24
10/13/07 at 11:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by scentemental View Post

Dior Jules

The allegedly discontinued Jules was even reformulated? Not even the new one was a success?
I haven't heard that... What a great scent.
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post #23 of 24
10/14/07 at 12:42am
About the refill and the gold sleeve: It DOES fit still! I just bought the gold sleeve on Ebay and my new bottle of EdP fits perfect. http://a618.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...682595a6b1.jpg It is exactly the same bottle, although it doesn't say 'refill' on the bottom.

About civet: I'm very sure that there's not civet in this one. It's not listed anywhere and I can't trace it with my nose, old or new. Maybe the tonka bean gives this impression?
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post #24 of 24
10/14/07 at 5:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by scentemental View Post


I have an unused, vintage Héritage refill bottle, which I just sprayed for the first time today and just discovered for the first time today when I saw this thread that there is a noticeable difference between the vintage and the reformulated version. The reformulation, as is the case with most Guerlains, is well done and carefully done, and while the qualitative difference between the two fragrances is not pronounced, the reformulated version is not as same as the original. It never is.

The vintage Héritage is more natural smelling, richer, smoother, with the animalic component less prominent and more fully integrated into the overall accord, and the drydown is brighter and softer. I suspect this is the case because like a lot of the Guerlains, the reformulation was tweaked to take into account the new safety concerns over various ingredients as well as costs. (Turin has posted on this feature of Guerlain fragrances.) The "intensity" of the reformulation that you draw attention to is, to my nose, the function of aroma chemicals substitutions of older more natural ingredients. I am sure the Oakmoss/Treemoss balance has been tweaked in the newer version. To my nose, it makes the reformulation a little more jagged, less jaunty, slightly unbalanced. It also sounds like your vintage bottle of Héritage has lost its luster because mine certainly has it and has it in abundance.

To my nose, the vintage version Héritage is different and is superior, but, hey, that's just my impression, of course.

For those who are interested in differences in formulation, I am working on a detailed comparison of a number of fragrances and the differences between the vintage versions and the updated reformulated versions. Stay tuned.

Fragrances include the following:

 Cacharel Pour LHomme
Caron The Third Man
Cartier Must de Cartier EDT
Cartier Santos de Cartier
Cartier Santos de Cartier Concentrée
Chanel Égoïste
Chanel No. 19 EDT
 Dior Jules
Guerlain Derby
Guerlain Habit Rouge EDC
Guerlain Habit Rouge EDT
Guerlain Héritage
Guerlain Vetiver EDT
Hermès Bel Ami
LOccitane Neroli EDP
LOccitane Vétyver
 Molyneux Captain Molyneux
Nina Ricci Signoricci
Nina Ricci Signoricci 2
Nino Cerruti Pour Homme
Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui
Rochas Eau de Rochas Pour Homme
Ungaro Pour LHomme III
Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme

scentemental

P.S. Hirch_duckfinder, I have no idea when the reformulation occurred. I suspect sometime in the last 5 to 7 years, but that's just a guess. Classic Guerlain fragrances tend to have a very anfractuous history.

I'll look forward to your views on these two,in particular.


I'm speculating that I have a"newer" bottle of Heritage EDP,"more jagged, less jaunty",sounds familiar,particulary in the opening. I find the opening harsh,a little unpleasant,even.
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