Interesting discussion, gents! I own and appreciate each of the scents mentioned in this thread, with the exception of Oriental Lumpur. Upon my first reading and contemplation of this thread I generated the following thoughts:
I agree that Patou Pour Homme is really not well-approximated by either BdP or Heritage; these two wear more warmly on my skin, both slightly more ambery and spicy than Patou PH. I think that both Trussardi Uomo and Monsieur Carven are better approximations of Patou PH, and both Romeo Giglis Sud Est and Nina Riccis Ricci Club might also be close..
I find that Trussardi Uomo has a very similar overall vibe to Patou PH, even if TU is slightly stronger, drier, darker and more floral. While not bone-dry, they are both quite dry, and they share a similar-feeling oakmoss, patchouli, and sandalwood drydown. While it seems nearly every 80's-era men's scent featured these elements in their drydowns, it still amazes me the different effects that were and can be reached.
Monsieur Carven is also quite close in character to Patou PH. They share similar topnotes, with the cinnamon in MC substituting for the pepper in PPH. MC features rose/carnation as its floral elements, versus PPH's use of clary sage to help round out the midnotes. MC also features oakmoss, sandalwood and patchouli in the drydown, and adds a slight touch of vanilla. The overall vibe is perhaps a little bit more different than between PPH and Trussardi - MC warmer, though not as warm as BdP or Heritage.
These were my initial thoughts. But then I got home last night after work and decided to compare and contrast all of these on my actual skin, along with Versailles PH and Jules. I dabbed or sprayed lightly onto a cotton ball and then applied a light, silver dollar-size application of each to varying points on my hands, wrists, and arms. These are my actual resulting impressions.
Patou PH: Ah, I remember thisbeautiful! A citrus, peppery opening with readily apparent oakmoss. Very masculine, and off-dry.
Monsieur Carven: Also a masterpiece. Very nearly the same register as Patou PH; a very similar citric, spicy opening, only with cinnamon versus pepper. Very compelling and arguably a more modern smell than Patou PH. Both are captivating.
Trussardi Uomo: Wow! Against the first two this is nearly bone-dry, Havana-like. Trussardi Uomo does not have the full complement of topnotes like the first two, but what is underneath (in the mid- and basenotes) smells in the same ballpark. Oakmoss and carnation are immediately obvious in this one. Cant get over how dry this one is.
Jules: HmmmI dont have much experience with Jules, even if I have it. It smells quite similar to and, of these first four, closest to Trussardi Uomo. It again doesnt have the full-bodied topnotes of the first two, and it is a little drier than them (though not as dry as the Trussardi). Jules is very much a prototypical 80s power fragrance. Off in the distance a somewhat similar mid- and basenotes profile as the others beckons.
Versailles Pour Homme: Whoa! This is dramatically different than either Patou PH or Monsieur Carven. What makes it very different is the very sharp smell of a urine-like note. Yes, the dreaded urine-like note. What is it? I suspect it may be the pine note mixing with the fruit and/or green notes that are described as contributing to Versailles olfactory pyramid. Or perhaps my recently received, new-old-stock, unused 3.0 oz. bottle has gone off? At any rate, this is the odd-man-out of the seven I am testing, and will remain so throughout this test.
Ricci Club: This is a very nice scent, with a crisp citrus and floral opening. There is also peach in this scent, which lends a slightly sweeter, rounder, softer character to Ricci Club than either Patou PH or Monsieur Carven. Ricci Club is in the same general neighborhood as the others here, but not on the same block.
Romeo Gigli Sud Est: This is another discontinued gem, and it opens with a touch of bergamot amidst the multiple herbs and floral elements. It is quite dry, akin to Jules, and one can also appreciate the potential for a similar drydown to the others.
So, how did these evolve?
After 30 minutes Patou PH and Monsieur Carven are definitely converging, becoming almost one. Monsieur Carven is clearly the most similar to Patou PH from among the six possibilities here. This similarity will persist now all the way to the end, some 6-8 hours later. They are virtually dead ringers, as Id suspected they might.
Versailles PH continued to be noticeably different from its compatriots, though the sharp opening note dissipated and made for a reasonable pleasant drydown. There is little spice apparent in Versailles at this late stage, and this significantly distinguishes it from both Patou PH and Monsieur Carven.
Jules and Trussardi Uomo become nearly one after six hours; each will last another four hours. These are both intense powerhouses, and rank among the most masculine scents from the 80s. That said, I like where they both end up.
Ricci Club dries down slightly more sweet than the rest, and without much spice. It is very pleasant, somewhat fresh when compared against the rest here.
Sud Est, finally, smells pretty similar to Jules and Trussardi Uomo at the six-hour-mark. All are very masculine, with Trussardi the driest and arguably with the most patchouli, Sud Est the muskiest, and Jules the leatheriest.
So, in summary, Monsieur Carven has clearly shown itself (to me) to be closest of those tested to Patou PH. Sadly, both of these are discontinued, along with Sud Est and Versailles PH. So ends my 80s most-like-a-legend comparison test.