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Luca Turin (radio interviews recorded recently)

post #1 of 9
11/11/07 at 5:12pm
Thread Starter 
my web journeys brought me here. to a 2 week old NYC NPR piece with Luca Turin.

NPR has made listening a lot easier than before. The audio track is embedded in the page here and ther's a link to a European brodcast below that.

http://salonaesthetica.com/2007/10/2...-turin-speaks/

hope it works for you. I can give Mac tips and maybe PC users can help PC users.
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post #2 of 9
11/12/07 at 2:14am
Thanks these were two great interviews. Very interesting indeed!
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post #3 of 9
11/12/07 at 3:57am
Thank you Frederick ! That whole Aesthetica site is interesting, and I wouldn't be surprised if we didn't know the owner ! ?
Somebody must have posted the NY Radio podcast recently. I had listened to it once before. On Deutsche Welle: and if it were only about this piece of information - no expert or perfume critic has ever mentioned, that the three Chanel 5 versions are actually three different compositions - not simply one formula in different concentrations ! That puts my mind at peace, because I think I have always smelled something like that in perfumes by Lanvin, Rochas and Guerlain. (Oh, to imagine a perfume version of Kouros...!!)
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post #4 of 9
11/12/07 at 8:43am
Thanks for posting!

I love listening to and reading Luca Turin. So much sense and rationality!
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post #5 of 9
11/12/07 at 9:23am
Thread Starter 
Eluard, Narcus and Hirch. You're quite welcome. Always a pleasure to bring something satisfying to the communities attention. Glad you enjoyed it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narcus View Post

(Oh, to imagine a perfume version of Kouros...!!)

If I was a betting man I'd bet that scentemental has a bottle
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post #6 of 9
11/12/07 at 9:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredricktoo View Post

Eluard, Narcus and Hirch. You're quite welcome. Always a pleasure to bring something satisfying to the communities attention. Glad you enjoyed it.
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If I was a betting man I'd bet that scentemental has a bottle

Actually, I don't have a bottle of Kouros parfum--I am working on it, though--but I do have a bottle of the original Kouros spin off, Kouros Eau de Sport (1986).

About the significantly different formulations of the parfum, edt, and edp versions of No. 5: for anyone familiar with Chanel's women's perfumes, it would have been no surprise at all to hear that they are different formulations. That's always been the case with Chanels and with most EDTs, EDPs, and parfums, and it's frequently mentioned or alluded to in perfume books and perfume histories. Furthermore, there are always technical issues involved when you move up in concentration. It's not simply a matter of bumping up the levels of perfume oils, as most people imagine, especially for complexly formulated fragrances such as Chanels. Such differences between Chanel versions have always been part of the discussion on the women's board. I think what really surprises most people is how wide the variance can be between different versions of a synonymously named fragrance.

Thanks for the link fredricktoo. Turin is always compelling whatever he speaks on or writes about. I enjoyed it very much.

scentemental

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post #7 of 9
11/12/07 at 10:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by scentemental View Post

That's always been the case with Chanels and with most EDTs, EDPs, and parfums, and it's frequently mentioned or alluded to in perfume books and perfume histories. Furthermore, there are always technical issues involved when you move up in concentration. It's not simply a matter of bumping up the levels of perfume oils, as most people imagine, especially for complexly formulated fragrances such as Chanels.

I suspected as much, when I started to really focus my attention on a scents different variations - it's nice to read someone confirming this.

Perhaps the same holds true for some of the 'newer' marketing ideas that scents have now: a regular scent and then a little later an Extreme scent (or an oil). Same concept as edt, edp, parfum - just a different marketing angle, but both with entirely different formulations.

Another thing that has come to mind when I think of formulations from the same fragrance: whenever I read about a new scent coming out with a Summer version, or a limited edition version I always wonder if the nose who created the scent perhaps in production came up with more than one formula and the company who was releasing the scent liked all three, chose the best one to be released as the Regular version and then kept the other two formulations for later versions.
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post #8 of 9
11/12/07 at 11:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by narcus View Post

That whole Aesthetica site is interesting...

Thank you, sweetheart!


Quote:
Originally Posted by narcus View Post

...and I wouldn't be surprised if we didn't know the owner ! ?

*wink*
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post #9 of 9
11/15/07 at 6:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MiaKulpa View Post

Thank you, sweetheart!
*wink*

*wink back*: what a pleasant surprise, Miakulpa! I didn't realize that Aesthetica is your baby. The site is a joy to look at, congratulations!

To me the comments on Chanel No.5 are the real issue in the second interview. "I don’t think most people are aware of the fact that the three different concentrations, so called, of Chanel 5, namely parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de parfum are actually three different compositions. This is the kind of stuff that you figure out if you do it systematically rather than simply smelling this and smelling that."
Once more it points to a major malaise with many (not all) traditional French brands demounting themselves! While others may have barely 'alluded' to that, Turin is the only one who uses clear language. He has been critical of 'modern' versions released by Coty and Guerlain before, and I guess it was time to also comment on the most prominent Chanel earlier this year: Turin, May 07, Zurich: Chanel No.5 duftete falsch (smelled wrong).
Quote:
Originally Posted by narcus View Post

If you thought there is only one Chanel No 5....
Luca Turin in Folio - May 2007
Reviewer Heaven
http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/21b625ad-...54cff6a1e.aspx


Excerpt : “After checking with the Chanel engine room, I finally understood that all the while No. 5 was actually three different perfumes:
- The Parfum is the 1921 original, and smells fresh as paint and unchanged from day 1.
- The Eau de Toilette is what I thought No. 5 was, all soft and peachy, a fifties mom in a fur coat coming to tuck you in bed before going to the theatre.
- The Eau de Parfum is, in my opinion, an eighties lapse of judgment.”
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