New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Parure

post #1 of 33
11/12/07 at 11:40am
Thread Starter 
The perfume goddess smiled on me today.

Got home from work and a package was waiting on the porch. I had searched the net for quite a while - hoping to snag a bottle of Parure EdT, and managed to land a tester. Ordered it along with a re-up of my Jardins de Bagatelle which is almost empty - and then after ordering - happened to read several threads here relating to a company called 1st perfume.

Oh my. I almost wept. Had I lost my money - would it ever arrive? Am I a complete idjit?
Sigh. I resigned myself to be the latest in a line of vics. Parure mania had me in its grips and I didn't think to check to see what other folks experiences had been. Too late, I regretted my impulse.

But someone up there takes care of fools and perfume addicts. She (Parure) is here and I am sitting here typing in a soft haze of plum rose jasmine oakmoss scent. I have no clue why some critics have called it "musty". It is warm, soft, rich and comforting, like a velvet bathrobe.

O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!
Reply
Reply

Features on Basenotes

Petals Falling From The Sky - A Report From The Cote d'Azur's Bataille De Fleurs
Greatest Hits: Annick Menardo
Basenotes Reader Awards 2013 - Finalists Announced.
post #2 of 33
11/12/07 at 11:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post

The perfume goddess smiled on me today.

Got home from work and a package was waiting on the porch. I had searched the net for quite a while - hoping to snag a bottle of Parure EdT, and managed to land a tester. Ordered it along with a re-up of my Jardins de Bagatelle which is almost empty - and then after ordering - happened to read several threads here relating to a company called 1st perfume.

Oh my. I almost wept. Had I lost my money - would it ever arrive? Am I a complete idjit?
Sigh. I resigned myself to be the latest in a line of vics. Parure mania had me in its grips and I didn't think to check to see what other folks experiences had been. Too late, I regretted my impulse.

But someone up there takes care of fools and perfume addicts. She (Parure) is here and I am sitting here typing in a soft haze of plum rose jasmine oakmoss scent. I have no clue why some critics have called it "musty". It is warm, soft, rich and comforting, like a velvet bathrobe.

O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!

Isn't it beautiful? One of the most underrated Guerlain's IMO. I managed to snag a bottle of the parfum extrait on ebay.
Reply
Reply
post #3 of 33
11/12/07 at 11:59am
Celebrate good times, c'mon! [Dances to share in DeeOlive's happiness.]

You moved me to finally lay a good spritz of Parure on my arm (a gift from ComDiva--the Parure, not the arm), and my hypothesis starts hardening into theory: I'm a sour old thing, I am. The Parure smells divine at a distance, but, oh, my bitter, sour skin undermines much.

If not for smelling Kotori's arm in Chicago, I'd never have believed the sugar some can add to a fragrance. And some recent success with musk hinted that my own animal qualities need to be compensated for. This is why frags smell better to me on paper than on my oldie-hide.

Oh, well, I'm the wiser, and you smell divine, Dee!
Reply
Reply
post #4 of 33
11/12/07 at 12:29pm
Thread Starter 
LOL Quarry - Kool and the Gang love that song. Sorry to hear that Parure doesn't work on your body chem - I figured it would be fine on me since L'Heure bleu works so well - and they are sisters - so to speak. I'm an oldie hide (aldehyde?) as well - different strokes for different folks I guess...and yes - today I do smell divine

Thanks for enjoying my enjoyment

SoFresh - would love to compare the parfum with my EdT - heard the plum notes are richer. One day perhaps
Reply
Reply
post #5 of 33
11/12/07 at 1:50pm
I like Parure too. It's a strange scent. Kind of mix between Mitsouko and Chamade. Luca Turin thinks it's too vulgar - together with Nahéma. Well. I like the strange mix of 'dirty' oak moss (the 'musty' part) and bright fruit.

I have vintage EdT and vintage parfum. I should wear the parfum more to be a really serious reviewer of it, but my impression is that among the different Guerlains, it's the one with the least difference between the concentrations (except for intensity of course). But still, as I always find with Guerlain, the perfume-version has heart notes that are simply pumped up, giving a more shiny and bright, and less 'dark'/'dirty'/'musty'/'rooty', impression.

It's totally discontinued, so go hunting!
Reply
Reply
post #6 of 33
11/12/07 at 2:18pm
I smelled the EDT at the Guerlain boutique and it smelled pretty darn close to the parfum I have.
Reply
Reply
post #7 of 33
11/12/07 at 2:30pm
Thread Starter 
Mr Guerlain
I loved your review of Parure; it helped me decide to track it down - so thank you. I will continue to hunt - since I will now have to have a few back-ups for this one prized bottle.
It puzzles me why perfume houses decide to discontinue such beautiful scents - but I guess $$$'s are the bottom line, and Parure is not contemporary, nor as you stated on your website is it "in demand".
Reply
Reply
post #8 of 33
11/12/07 at 2:34pm
^^ What bottle did yours come in?
Reply
Reply
post #9 of 33
11/12/07 at 2:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post

Mr Guerlain
I loved your review of Parure; it helped me decide to track it down - so thank you. I will continue to hunt - since I will now have to have a few back-ups for this one prized bottle.
It puzzles me why perfume houses decide to discontinue such beautiful scents - but I guess $$$'s are the bottom line, and Parure is not contemporary, nor as you stated on your website is it "in demand".

I'm glad I tipped the balance for you there! The Guerlain PR staff told me that they simply must make priorities and that Parure didn't sell much. I think they are quite right that they have a dilemma between keeping the back catalogue and giving space for new interesting stuff (like Spiritueuse Double Vanille!!)

I think it's fair enough, all in all. But we gotta search, Parure is not so easy to find in any version anywhere...
Reply
Reply
post #10 of 33
11/12/07 at 3:47pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofresh View Post

^^ What bottle did yours come in?

this was a tester - so I wouldn't call it a bottle - there are pics of it on the 1st perfume site.

The Jardins de Bagatelle EDP came in the bottle with the square gold cap, exactly like the one I already have.

I did my search - the only two places that seem to have Parure have these testers - and they are the same company, according to the warning posts here. I guess I'll have to pray to the Perfume Goddess and try my luck again.
Reply
Reply
post #11 of 33
11/15/07 at 11:58am
It's interesting how these classic Guerlains (and so many classic frags)create such big reactions - real love and hate stuff. I guess back then they weren't afraid to create fragrances that some people would actively dislike. Were they braver then? Were people's senses of smell more broad? Or have we become weak little kittens, spoiled by decades of toilet cleaner and airfreshener to be unable to accept things that are a little more interesting?
Personally, I'm one of those poor unfortunates who doesn't get on with oakmoss, so Parure absolutely doesn't do it for me and I can only just bear Mitsouko. (I know - heresy!) That's one reason I"m so glad Guerlain keeps its back catalogue open - I have had the opportunity to fall in love with Vol de Nuit, Jicky and L'Heure Bleue and am itching to try Apres L'Ondee as well as Spiriteuse Double Vanilla.
Reply
Reply
post #12 of 33
11/15/07 at 12:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wordbird View Post

It's interesting how these classic Guerlains (and so many classic frags)create such big reactions - real love and hate stuff. I guess back then they weren't afraid to create fragrances that some people would actively dislike. Were they braver then? Were people's senses of smell more broad? Or have we become weak little kittens, spoiled by decades of toilet cleaner and airfreshener to be unable to accept things that are a little more interesting?
Personally, I'm one of those poor unfortunates who doesn't get on with oakmoss, so Parure absolutely doesn't do it for me and I can only just bear Mitsouko. (I know - heresy!) That's one reason I"m so glad Guerlain keeps its back catalogue open - I have had the opportunity to fall in love with Vol de Nuit, Jicky and L'Heure Bleue and am itching to try Apres L'Ondee as well as Spiriteuse Double Vanilla.

I think you're right...I think they had less pressure to create something that would have mass market appeal. I find that the current department store offerings are usually bland, and the niche stuff is almost too daring...like they have something to prove.

Ah well, I guess there are enough releases now to always release something that we'll like...we just have a lot more to weed through now.
Reply
Reply
post #13 of 33
11/15/07 at 3:11pm
Thread Starter 
The only Guerlain I haven't been able to wear is Samsara - though I loved it on my mom. Am having fun exploring others though. Wordbird - I too am itching to try Apres L'Ondee - have not heard of Spiriteuse Double Vanilla - but will read up on it and try to get a sample.

Though I heard complaints about the reformulation of Champs Elysées (I have the 1996 one) I like it - it is lighter than L'Heure Bleu; on me the melon and peach notes are refreshing - I can't tease out the anise. Would love to compare it to the original.
Reply
Reply
post #14 of 33
11/15/07 at 3:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post

The only Guerlain I haven't been able to wear is Samsara - though I loved it on my mom. Am having fun exploring others though. Wordbird - I too am itching to try Apres L'Ondee - have not heard of Spiriteuse Double Vanilla - but will read up on it and try to get a sample.

Though I heard complaints about the reformulation of Champs Elysées (I have the 1996 one) I like it - it is lighter than L'Heure Bleu; on me the melon and peach notes are refreshing - I can't tease out the anise. Would love to compare it to the original.

Apres l'Ondee is quite beautiful...violets & iris...very cool & damp smelling. I'd love to get my hands on some of the extrait...its currently on available in EDT in the bee bottle. The topnotes I find a bit strange, but overall its quite beautiful.
Reply
Reply
post #15 of 33
11/15/07 at 4:04pm
Thread Starter 
What is strange about the topnotes Sofresh?
ozMoz says they are : Lemon, Bergamot, Neroli, Blackcurrant (sounds interesting)
Middle note : Carnation, Violet, Mimosa, Sandalwood
Base note : Vanilla, Benzoin, Iris roots, Heliotrope
Reply
Reply
post #16 of 33
11/15/07 at 5:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post

What is strange about the topnotes Sofresh?
ozMoz says they are : Lemon, Bergamot, Neroli, Blackcurrant (sounds interesting)
Middle note : Carnation, Violet, Mimosa, Sandalwood
Base note : Vanilla, Benzoin, Iris roots, Heliotrope

Isn't it funny how notes can differ depending on the source?

From Guerlain's website:

head note : aniseed note, cassia note
heart notes : violet, carnation
base notes : iris, vanilla notes

Your topnotes sound lovely...mine...not so much. I think its the cassia (not to be confused with cassie, a la freddy malle). Its a weird, tangy note...hard to describe. Maybe Mr. Guerlain can help me describe it? Might just be me, but I find parfum/extrait concentrations have the biggest difference in the topnotes...that's why I was hoping to try it to see if its the case with AL (wishful thinking of course).
Reply
Reply
post #17 of 33
11/16/07 at 11:38am
Thread Starter 
I guess it doesn't really matter what notes it has since I can't find a bottle of it anywhere except offered on ebay by someone in Japan

Oh well - another prayer to the Perfume Goddess is in order - maybe I'll find one at a yard sale.
Reply
Reply
post #18 of 33
11/16/07 at 11:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post

I guess it doesn't really matter what notes it has since I can't find a bottle of it anywhere except offered on ebay by someone in Japan

Oh well - another prayer to the Perfume Goddess is in order - maybe I'll find one at a yard sale.

Can you call your closest Guerlain boutique to ship it to you? (I assume Manhattan)
Reply
Reply
post #19 of 33
11/16/07 at 12:49pm
Thread Starter 
Checked all the stores that carry Guerlain in Manhattan - none have it. But you inspired me to keep checking - found a review which mentioned a source in England. So have ordered from scent direct uk - gift wrapped - lol - for me from Santa
Reply
Reply
post #20 of 33
11/16/07 at 1:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post

Checked all the stores that carry Guerlain in Manhattan - none have it. But you inspired me to keep checking - found a review which mentioned a source in England. So have ordered from scent direct uk - gift wrapped - lol - for me from Santa

Try Guerlain in Toronto (where I got mine).

416-929-6114

If you still have trouble, let me know and I'm sure I can track down a bottle for you.

edit - oh...so, you already ordered the bottle from England??!
Reply
Reply
post #21 of 33
11/16/07 at 3:02pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks sofresh - I'll keep Toronto in mind for future Guerlain hunts - am planning to drive up there in the spring - where is the store located?
Reply
Reply
post #22 of 33
11/16/07 at 6:31pm
Guerlain is on Bloor (with the rest of the upscale stores).
Reply
Reply
post #23 of 33
11/26/07 at 11:32am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofresh View Post

Try Guerlain in Toronto (where I got mine).

416-929-6114

If you still have trouble, let me know and I'm sure I can track down a bottle for you.

edit - oh...so, you already ordered the bottle from England??!

Thanks for the info on the Toronto source - the English seller cancelled my order. So called Toronto and they are happy to ship!

Nice to know that I don't have to wait to drive up there this summer.
Reply
Reply
post #24 of 33
11/26/07 at 11:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post

Thanks for the info on the Toronto source - the English seller cancelled my order. So called Toronto and they are happy to ship!

Nice to know that I don't have to wait to drive up there this summer.

You're very welcome...all the ladies that work there are very nice.
Reply
Reply
post #25 of 33
10/28/09 at 1:00pm
I am wearing this today, for the 1st time - and I concur with Mr. Guerlain as it being sort of a cross between Mitsouko and Chamade. Although (maybe it's the aldehydes) I also am reminded a bit of Chant de Aromes.

Has anyone smelled the Eau de Cologne of this, and care to comment on the differences between it and the EdT which I am smelling now?
Reply
Reply
post #26 of 33
10/28/09 at 3:20pm
You don't think it's the oakmoss-vetiver-bergamot mix that reminds you of Chant d'Arômes? Not really sure there are any aldehydes in Parure. Parure is such a special scent, have never smelled anything like it, so masculine and leathery, yet rosy, and to me the big sister of Derby who should have been released in 1976 if you ask me! Parure has really become my secret Guerlain jewel. BTW: I finally chose the famous Yoko Ono pic for the Parure period, think it fits nicely: http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.co....html#equality

Parure EdC is very close to the EdT, just less longevity. I think the potency of the fragrance makes it difficult to really alter - normally the Guerlain EdC's are more herbal and mellow, but not this one...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

I am wearing this today, for the 1st time - and I concur with Mr. Guerlain as it being sort of a cross between Mitsouko and Chamade. Although (maybe it's the aldehydes) I also am reminded a bit of Chant de Aromes.

Has anyone smelled the Eau de Cologne of this, and care to comment on the differences between it and the EdT which I am smelling now?
Reply
Reply
post #27 of 33
10/28/09 at 10:29pm
I went to get Chant d'Aromes at Imaginationperfumery and they were closed down. So regretting my delay. Congratulations on your score! I would love Parure and Apres L'Ondee in bee bottles, too.
Reply
Reply
post #28 of 33
10/29/09 at 6:29am
Parure to me is a glowing, ghostly jewel in my sample collection. I have about three drops left in a generous sample that was gifted to me, (thanks to good old bbBd who obtained his bottle from a Paris shopper, btw) It was instant infatuation at first sniff for me, and the full wearings I allowed myself were luxurious orgies of celebration in it.

Don't have the flexibility in my wallet to hunt for a bottle at the moment, but I am treasuring the ghost in my sample box.
Reply
Reply
post #29 of 33
10/29/09 at 7:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Guerlain View Post

You don't think it's the oakmoss-vetiver-bergamot mix that reminds you of Chant d'Arômes? Not really sure there are any aldehydes in Parure. ...

Parure EdC is very close to the EdT, just less longevity. I think the potency of the fragrance makes it difficult to really alter - normally the Guerlain EdC's are more herbal and mellow, but not this one...

Maybe it is those notes that seem 'sharp' and 'shiny' to my nose - it could be. Although I am very sensitive to aldehydes, much more than most people.

Thanks for confirming what I thought, about the EdC. Another Basenoter said the same thing you did, that the EdC and the EdT are almost alike.
Reply
Reply
post #30 of 33
10/29/09 at 7:23am
There's a Parure 'sucrier' bottle for sale on Ebay UK. It's the prettiest thing:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GUERLAIN-PARUR...item33526dea88
Reply
Reply
post #31 of 33
10/29/09 at 11:37am
The plum note in Parure is a real lesson in how fruit notes were handled by the masters before the term "fruity floral" or fruity anything, really - became an equivalent for "mediocre". It is similar to how plum is inserted into Silences by Jacomo - not sweet, not jammy, but green and almost astringent - think of how a piece of plum peel tastes - it's bitter, right? Parure to me has always been a dusk scent - I always associate the slipping of daylight into darkness with it, similar to the way others feel about L'Heure Bleu. I believe the large splash bottle of Parure that I used up was in eau de cologne concentration, although back in the '80s when I purchased it, Guerlain's edcs were of a strength comparable to today's edts. I also went through a small edp spray, but not in the gold-cage bottle. I almost bought a bottle of Parure in extrait back in the '80s, with that fantastic stopper made of grey glass shaped like a wind-whipped flag or an ocean wave. I truly wish I had acted on that thought while it was still possible!
Reply
Reply
post #32 of 33
10/29/09 at 12:07pm
Honestly, if I hadn't read the Basenotes reviews, I would never have called the note I smell in Parure is plum. It smells fruity, but like you said it has that acidic, varnish-like quality to it. Of course, now I smell it and my mind/nose registers: plum!

Today, wearing it again, I am again amazed at the similarities to Chamade.

I'm still not sure if I like Parure.
Reply
Reply
post #33 of 33
11/2/09 at 12:42pm
For those looking:

I found a 1oz bottle of the EDT at Palm Beach perfumes for around $99. The only other Guerlain they have is Shalimar.
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Female Fragrance Discussion

Features on Basenotes

Petals Falling From The Sky - A Report From The Cote d'Azur's Bataille De Fleurs
Greatest Hits: Annick Menardo
Basenotes Reader Awards 2013 - Finalists Announced.