Mitsouko Lovers will either love me or hate me for this...

Originally Posted by rtamara41




Here's the rub
It is the closest thing I have ever smelled to capturing the essence of my vintage bottle of Mitsouko parfum.
Perhaps a bit less smoky, more veil like, but my, my, my, ladies, if you love Mitsouko, this perfume is going to be a must have for you.

Originally Posted by zatarain

well, in that case Mia, you need to check this out STAT...

and send me a decant.

and thanks rtamara in any case!

Originally Posted by rtamara41

My pleasure, Mia Kulpa. A few more details:
I believe the presentation will be in a similar bottle to the ones pictured here:
http://www.aedes.com/brand.php?brand_id=86&cat_id=1
and will run about $225 a bottle...

Originally Posted by dimples

Ugh!

OK... it's a must have.... blind to boot!

Bottle split.... anyone out there?

Originally Posted by mastorer

There is one small problem with a true return to classic chypre perfumes, purplebird 7. A defining note in any classic chypre is oakmoss absolute. Perfumers have their hands tied when it comes to using this delightful ingredient. The Powers That Be have declared it taboo for being an allergen to some people. One more time the masses of people who have absolutely NO problems with it must bend to those few who do. The same is true for orris absolute. Wouldn't a sane person think that simply a statement of contents would suffice? But no, everyone must pay. Even though our grandparents did just fine with oakmoss, orris and many other wonderful things in both men's and women's fragrances. As a perfumer, this pisses me off. We do have synthetic oakmoss, but it really doesn't hold a candle to the real thing. I hope that this collaboration of Molinard with Aedes is blatantly breaking the "rules."
Put me down as a great fan of Mitsouko, btw ;-)
...Michael Storer

Originally Posted by mastorer

Dear Minou2 et al,

A very good question. Actually, except for ever more complex European Common Market labeling laws, to my knowledge most all of the 'rules' of what is allowed and what isn't are dictated by IFRA (International Fragrance Association), which is a self-governing body. Since most (or all) small niche houses are not members of IFRA, our usage (or levels of usage) of IFRA restricted substances is on our own shoulders. For instance, I have no one looking over my compounding ready to penalize me for using a ton of oakmoss or orris root, or whatever else I choose. IFRA studies such things as number of incidents of allergic reaction among the population in general and makes recommendations or rulings on "safe usage levels" as to percentage of the material allowed in the fragrance concentrate (if at all). We non-member niche perfumers try to follow those guidelines, too, as we have no statistics to dispute their findings. Having said that, many perfumers complain that IFRA has grown rabidly cautious in the last ten years or so and runs frightened because their idea is to self-govern to keep the law-makers from stepping in and perhaps exerting even tighter controls.

If I overstep the bounds of IFRA I'm taking a risk that I will run into allergic reactions among my customers. Since I have no statistics to follow, I have no idea how big that risk would be. Having said that, our parents consumed a lot of oakmoss, etc. in fragrances of old, so I suspect the risk is not really that high. In fact, I may come out with a fragrance using real oakmoss, perhaps judiciously mixed 50% with synthetic. This is actually a great advantage that niche perfumers have. We haven't taken an oath to uphold IFRA's rules so have the leeway to reintroduce more of the fragrance notes of yesteryear. One's own conscience as an artisan selling to the public is the only limit-setter, but it's a responsibility I for one take seriously. If you're interested, IFRA has a website. There is some information you can read without being a member. Go to: http://www.ifraorg.org

Originally Posted by mastorer

Dear Minou2 et al,
IFRA (International Fragrance Association), which is a self-governing body....
If I overstep the bounds of IFRA I'm taking a risk that I will run into allergic reactions among my customers....I may come out with a fragrance using real oakmoss, perhaps judiciously mixed 50% with synthetic.

Originally Posted by purplebird7

Whatever happened to the option of putting a warning label on the perfume that it contains allergens? Would that remove your liability for a reaction?
I hate to see a 50/50 product when the inclusion of any oakmoss would "violate" the safety requirement. Might as well use the real thing all the way.
I believe that you are correct in assuming that oakmoss as safe as other ingredients. The IFRA is also trying to regulate citrus, and we peel oranges and lemons every day with our hands. Grocery stores are not frightened of lawsuits because the owners and managers are completely unaware of the "danger" of citrus peels.
One more issue, and I will drop the natural vs synthetic topic because it can be a hot button for people: allergies are not the only risk with aromachemicals, many chemicals can expose the wearer to other problems, and it is impossible to test everything for every adverse reaction. Hair dye is a case in point, and it is booming in popularity.

Originally Posted by Kyra

For the lucky eleven waiting to hear, I don't think anyone will be dissapointed. Very much in the style of the virtually unobtainable Quadrille! Ur Chypre! And because I'm dearly fond of you all- I was able to overcome the temptation to take the most expensive bath of my life and enter a witness protection program.