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Dec '07 Details magazine - The Ultimate Guide to Buying Cologne

post #1 of 32
Thread Starter 
In the DETAILS magazine (Dec 2007) the article titled, 'The Ultimate Guide to Buying Cologne' appeared. Some highlights from the article (which I previously had scanned and posted here, but removed) are:

- Colognes fall into categories (three): citrus, spicy and green - they listed examples of citrus as Acqua di Gio and Polo Blue, spicy as Old Spice and Obsession for Men, and green as Marc Jacobs for Men and Chanel Allure Homme
- The fragrances you choose are affected by how you dress and your skin tone - they even quote Robert Gerstner (co-owner of Aedes) saying, 'if you're the whitest guy on the planet, I wouldn't run out and get something with incense'
- They suggest taking samples home to test them, especially when you're dropping $200 + for bottles; if you try on fragrances at the stores do not try more than four; put sprays on crook of each elbow and on each wrist
- Wait 15 minutes after you apply a fragrance to judge it accordingly
- Generally well made colognes cost between $150 and $200; inexpensive fragrances are mass marketed and contain cheaper ingredients however fragrances MORE than $200 / bottle are rarely worth it;
- Seven new scents worth seeking out: Diesel Fuel for Life, Gucci Pour Homme II, Chanel Allure Homme Sport, Polo Explorer, Hugo XY, Z Zegna EXTREME and Lacoste Elegance
- Killian Hennessey (owener of By Killian fragrances) gave us his 'rules' on wearing cologne: Don't put cologne on wrists [he thinks its a feminine gesture] he suggests putting it on the chest and both sides of the neck because 'that's the place a woman is going to smell the scent on you'; you know you've put too much on if you feel uncomfortable with the scent you just applied; It is ok to reapply citrusy and fresh scents and more risky to reapply ambery woody scents
- The classics and who wore them: Franco Zeffirelli wore Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligons; George Washington wore Caswell Massey Number Six; James Bond [Iam Fleming] wore Floris No. 89; Sean Connery wore Jicky; Winston Churchill wore Creed Tabarome; Cary Grant wore Acqua di Parmal Colonia; Robert Redford wore Christian Dior Eau Savage
- The Cologne Glossary listed 9 notes and the scents that has them: Ambergris (Azzaro Pour Homme); Bergamot (D&G Pour Homme); Cardamom (Dior Homme); Civet (YSL Kouros); Coriander (Armani Attitude); Geranium (Calvin Kleins Eternity for Men); Sandalwood (Creed's Green Irish Tweed); Tonka Bean (Chanel Allure Homme)
post #2 of 32
I think they did as good a job as can be expected from a magazine that has two pages to give a rough description of everything about fragrance. Nice job of mentioning some choices other than the current flavors of the moment too.
post #3 of 32
ginger in dior homme?
sandalwood in GIT?

hmmm....
post #4 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by yonggoh View Post

ginger in dior homme?
sandalwood in GIT?

hmmm....

Dior Homme has cardamom, which smells like a more complex ginger spice. Wearing it in warm weather brings it out more. GIT has sandalwood in the drydown.
post #5 of 32
And nowhere to be found is the "old man smell" nonsense....
post #6 of 32
Thanks for posting this article. I found it quite informative and always like to know how others apply their fragrances. The photographs are very nice as well, especially the one of Eau Sauvage, mid spray.
post #7 of 32
I like the article itself, but I don't like any of his "Seven new scents worth seeking out" and I think the "Cologne Glossary" would be grossly misleading to the average sniffer. Why select those particular fragrances as examples for those specific notes? I think this whole thing is a big f#cking advertisement. Killian seems like a douche, too.
post #8 of 32
Quote: "Paying 200 USD for a milliliter of fragrance" WHAT????
Quote: "Well-made cologne costs between 150 and 200 USD" WOW!!! That`s a PR article or what?
Quote: "Even the priciest ingredients, such as vetiver" - You should compare prices, author! Maybe someone could sell you the ounce of mud for the price of Cadillac?

They should also open the eyes of a reader about how much average 100 ml bottle of lux scent costs in production... I`ve asked some parisian producers about it - prime cost of any lux bottle with juice (Dior, Guerlain, CK, etc.) is not more than 10 euro!!!
And now they are talking about the price - of marketing, PR, advertising, distribution, sales persons, etc...
post #9 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scentronic View Post

Killian seems like a douche, too.

I'm sorry, but that made me laugh out loud. Perfect delivery!
post #10 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scentronic View Post

I like the article itself, but I don't like any of his "Seven new scents worth seeking out" and I think the "Cologne Glossary" would be grossly misleading to the average sniffer. Why select those particular fragrances as examples for those specific notes? I think this whole thing is a big f#cking advertisement. Killian seems like a douche, too.

I agree about the seven scents they mention. They go on about how well-made fragrances are more expensive, and then the best they can recommend is the mass-market stuff?
post #11 of 32
"If you're the whitest guy in the planet, i wouldn't run out and get something with insense."

LOL
post #12 of 32
Out of interest Mike, is their any mention of either Basenotes or me in the article? The reason I ask is that in October I spent a considerable amount of time helping the writer of this piece with definitions of ingredients and researching who wore which classic fragrance - in return (it was promised) for a mention of the website.

Now I spent a good deal of time helping them, at a time when I've enough to do on the website.

post #13 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Basenotes Admin View Post

Out of interest Mike, is their any mention of either Basenotes or me in the article? The reason I ask is that in October I spent a considerable amount of time helping the writer of this piece with definitions of ingredients and researching who wore which classic fragrance - in return (it was promised) for a mention of the website.

Now I spent a good deal of time helping them, at a time when I've enough to do on the website.


No there is not.

If I were you I would write a letter to the editot of Details. The author Kayleen Schaefer should have referenced you or Basenotes, Grant & if she didn't atleast your letter could appear in the Letter to the Editor section.
post #14 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

No there is not.

If I were you I would write a letter to the editot of Details. The author Kayleen Schaefer should have referenced you or Basenotes, Grant & if she didn't atleast your letter could appear in the Letter to the Editor section.

Grrrr, that's the second time this year. (A similar trick happened in the UK with the Independent on Sunday too).

That's it - no more unpaid research for journalists!
post #15 of 32
What made me chuckle most was the thought of fey Kilian Hennessy luring the ladies in with his manly chest spray and avoiding scenting his wrists...

Bwahaha.
post #16 of 32
Typical PR drivel. Big talk of luxury serving to push mediocre mass market frags, misleading suggestions (why don't they reference Art of Shaving's sandalwood for sandalwood etc. pp.?) and basic infos you can google in 3 seconds. From that perspective it's perhaps no loss basenotes wasn't mentioned, although it might have led some readers to genuinely useful, reliable and indepth information. I agree, though, that this is the most you can expect these days. It's painful sometimes to read journalism from the Seventies, because you realize just how low that trade has now sunk in many quarters (I guess it's been reformulated too many times)
post #17 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by zztopp View Post

Dior Homme has cardamom, which smells like a more complex ginger spice. Wearing it in warm weather brings it out more. GIT has sandalwood in the drydown.

The article is littered with half-truths and just plain inaccurate information.

First, there's no Anise in Allure Homme any way you slice it.

Also, he says if you own Dior Homme/Jil Sander clothing, you will like "green, clean scents"???? Well, those who wear Dior/Sander (clothing that is) have exquisite tastes and probably won't settle for green/clean scents. IMHO Dior & Sander scents suit their clothes well. The Green/Clean crowd probably wear Polo, Abercombie & Nautica clothing anyway.

And his final mistake is aligning fragrance cost with quality. This couldn't be farther from the truth.

Never heard of By Killian fragrances either. The dude sounds like a Charlatan to me.
post #18 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Basenotes Admin View Post

Grrrr, that's the second time this year. (A similar trick happened in the UK with the Independent on Sunday too).

That's it - no more unpaid research for journalists!

Well, I think you partly got him back by having the entire article appear in your website, presumably without permission. Usually that is a copyright violation.
post #19 of 32
Regarding the glossary and recommendations, I believe they deliberately chose scents that are readily available to most people, and recognizable designer names no doubt played a part. How much of this is "dumbing down" and how much is paid product placement is anyone's guess.

My loudest snorts of derision, however, were reserved for the stereotyping of what type of person should wear what type of fragrance. At different times I dress like two of the three stereotypes given, and in no case would I follow the recommendations given.
post #20 of 32
Fragrance on the wrists is feminine? Whatever. I say, put it anywhere you have arteries.

I agree that Killian seems like a douche. He'll probably never know what it's like to have a woman actually interested in him rather than his money/status. [/jealousy]

P.S. Hennessey is totally the Acqua di Gio of cognacs.
post #21 of 32
I agree - the seven scents recommended pretty much wreck the credibility of the rest of the article, a real shame. The rest of the info might be useful to some (though presumably not many people who post here).
post #22 of 32
Thread Starter 
Hey everyone - so that Grant has no problem negotiating with Details about the error in Basenotes not being credited in the article, I'm going to remove the scans from my original post and post some 'highlights' from the article.

Thanks for everyones interest in the article. Hearing your comments (negative and positive) is the main reason why I posted the scans. Sometimes I feel like we Basenotes members write much more realistic, informative and honest information about fragrances than multi-million dollar publishing corporations. This is one of the main reasons why I support this site.

If you want to see the scans of the article (that I will be removing any second now) PM me.
--------------------------------------
Scan removed - but my interpretation of the article has been added. Enjoy!
post #23 of 32
Am I the only one that hasn't gotten my issue yet? I ordered a subscription about almost the same day the information that a magazine was going to be available, and have yet to receive the pilot issue. Or am I just a tad impatient .
post #24 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by artemesia View Post

Am I the only one that hasn't gotten my issue yet? I ordered a subscription about almost the same day the information that a magazine was going to be available, and have yet to receive the pilot issue. Or am I just a tad impatient .

I hope you're talking about the Basnotes Magazine and not Details.
According to an e-mail I received a week ago the pilot issue is delayed and they are working on getting it out as soon as they can.
post #25 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post

I hope you're talking about the Basnotes Magazine and not Details.
According to an e-mail I received a week ago the pilot issue is delayed and they are working on getting it out as soon as they can.

Haha! Hopefully SMM, otherwise he's taking "patient" to a whole other level!
post #26 of 32
Thanks for posting this great article Mike
LOL on the part that said
"If your the whitest guy in the world
you shouldn't buy something with incense
in it"
post #27 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23

article



Magazine writers... God bless them for trying.
post #28 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by artemesia View Post

Am I the only one that hasn't gotten my issue yet? I ordered a subscription about almost the same day the information that a magazine was going to be available, and have yet to receive the pilot issue. Or am I just a tad impatient .

Wow I must have been really tired when I posted that I missed the whole part about this being from another magazine called Details, which has nothing to do with the basenotes magazine. whoooops.
post #29 of 32
- Generally well made colognes cost between $150 and $200; inexpensive fragrances are mass marketed and contain cheaper ingredients however fragrances MORE than $200 / bottle are rarely worth it;
- Seven new scents worth seeking out: Diesel Fuel for Life, Gucci Pour Homme II, Chanel Allure Homme Sport, Polo Explorer, Hugo XY, Z Zegna EXTREME and Lacoste Elegance

... none of these cost anywhere near $150
post #30 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Critic View Post

- Generally well made colognes cost between $150 and $200; inexpensive fragrances are mass marketed and contain cheaper ingredients however fragrances MORE than $200 / bottle are rarely worth it;
- Seven new scents worth seeking out: Diesel Fuel for Life, Gucci Pour Homme II, Chanel Allure Homme Sport, Polo Explorer, Hugo XY, Z Zegna EXTREME and Lacoste Elegance

... none of these cost anywhere near $150

And I've seen 4 of the 7 they chose at Marshalls for under $30.
post #31 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post

Typical PR drivel. Big talk of luxury serving to push mediocre mass market frags, misleading suggestions (why don't they reference Art of Shaving's sandalwood for sandalwood etc. pp.?) and basic infos you can google in 3 seconds. From that perspective it's perhaps no loss basenotes wasn't mentioned, although it might have led some readers to genuinely useful, reliable and indepth information. I agree, though, that this is the most you can expect these days. It's painful sometimes to read journalism from the Seventies, because you realize just how low that trade has now sunk in many quarters (I guess it's been reformulated too many times)

I agree with this old post.

Fashion magazines are notorious for reviewing the latest scents and are, in some senses, pimping them for the companies. (See the women's magazine "Lucky"--it's all one big ad for clothing, scents and shoes.)

I saw a recent "feature" in Vanity Fair recommending Etiquette Bleue and Nomade by Parfums D'Orsay like they were something new. And then that "faux" legend again...
post #32 of 32
Men's magazines articles are trashy, barely concealed advertisements and atrocious writing. I never buy them and if I do read them, it's at the bookstore with a cup of coffee.
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