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Leather or Woody Chypres

post #1 of 17
1/3/08 at 7:10am
Thread Starter 
which are your favorites in this olfactory group?

I am enamored of Van Cleef & Arpels pour homme

what are your favorites in this group?
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post #2 of 17
1/3/08 at 7:23am
Leather: Tabac Blond by Caron - the high priestess of leather chypres, IMO.

Woody: I'm gonna say Acier Aluminum by Creed, but I'm not really sure if the Chypre Police agree that AA is a chypre
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post #3 of 17
1/3/08 at 7:28am
Tiffany for Men - Woody Chypre
Cuiron is my favorite leather but don't really think it is a chypre.
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post #4 of 17
1/3/08 at 7:37am
Antaeus in this category?
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post #5 of 17
1/3/08 at 7:44am
Leather: Derby by Guerlain, Royal English Leather by Creed and Aramis 900.

Woody: Chanel Pour Monsieur, New York by Parfums de Nicolai and Tiffany for Men.

(Mike - Edwards classifies Acier Aluminum as a chypre - i.e. Mossy Woods)
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post #6 of 17
1/3/08 at 7:44am
Derby
Jules
Yatagan
Bandit
Bel Ami
Lonestar Memories
and of course: Van Cleef & Arpels p.H.

I deeply love my Tabac Blond Extrait and Knize Ten but think of them rather as leathery-orientals than leathery-chypres.
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post #7 of 17
1/3/08 at 9:53am
Derby and Jules
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post #8 of 17
1/3/08 at 12:27pm
OH! I forgot about the incredible Derby.

Is Derby a leather chypre or a woody chypre? Or both?
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post #9 of 17
1/3/08 at 12:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

OH! I forgot about the incredible Derby.

Is Derby a leather chypre or a woody chypre? Or both?

Not very woody, a leather chypre to my nose.
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post #10 of 17
1/3/08 at 1:01pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lasta View Post

Antaeus in this category?

Yes it's considered a woody chypre by osmoz
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post #11 of 17
1/3/08 at 1:01pm
Yes leather. Hi Roman.
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post #12 of 17
1/3/08 at 1:09pm
Thread Starter 
another of my favorites Eau d'Italie Bois d'Ombrie is a woody chypre.
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post #13 of 17
1/3/08 at 1:20pm
Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque
Dior Jules - though Edwards calls it a fougère
Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme (vintage)
Chanel Cuir de Russie
Guerlain Derby - I actually like the new stuff better
Grès Cabochard - My gf's favorite to wear (vintage is much better)
Santa Maria Novella Patchouli
Leonard Pour Homme
Caron Yatagan
Givenchy Gentleman (vintage) - though it could be more aromatic
Creed Vintage Tabarome
Rochas Maccasar
Aramis 900 Herbal EDC - though I rarely wear it
Hermès Bel Ami (vintage)
Knize Ten
Robert Piguet Bandit - I don't wear it but wish my gf liked it because along with Cabochard there's hardly anything better to smell on a woman.
Caron Tabac Blond is great but too sweet, esp. the drydown in parfum concentration.
Various Vetivers (they're woods, not greens)
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post #14 of 17
1/3/08 at 1:31pm
Among leathers it's Knize Ten, Aoud Cuir d'Arabie, Parfum d'Habit, Eau d'Hermes, and Dia, which Edwards lists as a "dry chypre(!)," which is his code for "leather."

Among woody chypres pride of place goes to Santal Noble, followed perhaps by Iris Bleu Gris (another whacky Edwards classification, if you ask me), Yatagan, and Acier Aluminium. (Though I find the sweet ambery base in the latter more oriental than woody.)
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post #15 of 17
1/3/08 at 4:12pm
Favorite leather or woody chypres-

CdG Avignon
CdG 2Man
Cuir Oranger, Miller Harris
Domenico Caraceni (chypre?)
Borneo 1834
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post #16 of 17
1/3/08 at 4:36pm
For leather Chypres, I think that Bel Ami and Knize Ten lead the pack.
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post #17 of 17
1/4/08 at 2:51am
Cypres-Musc, anyone?
Now there's a Woody Chypre

In Perrfumenet's Encyclopedia of Perfumes, Antaeus is listed as a leathery chypre--Go figure.

Maybe they're right and osmoz is wrong. But I doubt it, considering that the original Montana PH is also listed in the encyclopedia as leathery chypre (?)
I'd tend to think woods/ fruit ---but the fruity sub-category does not exist there for men.

What the hell, both frags are great.

As is the aforementioned Cuir d'Oranger by Miller Harris--and I still don't know if it's a bonafide chypre but it sure is a great leather.

Cheers,

Mario
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