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Russian and Eastern European Fragrances

post #1 of 29
1/4/08 at 6:15am
Thread Starter 
Osmoz.com is featuring "The Russian Winter" this month with purchasing suggestions and historical views.

Fragrantica.com is a Slavic fragrance site with reviews and a bulletin board such as Basenotes.

Humiecki & Graeb Skarb is getting reviews here. A Czechoslovakian fragrance which is being advertised like no previous fragrance in my memory. Evoking Men's tears, the feelings of having your country occupied and a lot more.

In the past week or so Moscow has had a big Fragrance award show.

Your thoughts about the past, present and future of fragrance in this part of the world?

Folks who grew up in this part of the world and Basenoters logging in from these places.

Do you see a Rennaisance in this indusrty?

Everyone, what are your favorite Russian fragrances. Ladies participating here can you tell your sisters to weigh in.

I'm extremely curious.

Thanks

I need a nap

Gary

PS I just ordered a shitload of Cuir d'Russie decants from an outfit whose name will not be mentioned but they know who they are. So I'm fully invested in this.
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post #2 of 29
1/4/08 at 6:26am
I like "Red Moscow" in whatever language you wish to use! Discovered it in Budapest in 1979. Also have a "Hyacinth" Russian scent. Got both in a little Russian shop in the Chicago area last year. Red Moscow has heavy carnation and clove notes - I understand it was originally sold as "Empress' Favorite" but
of course that got nixed after the revolution.
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post #3 of 29
1/4/08 at 7:56am
I'd love to hear some suggestions also - I'll be in Russia (and other Eastern Europe countries) this summer on a cruise and I'd love to sniff some scents that I've never encountered before.
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post #4 of 29
1/4/08 at 12:37pm
French perfumes in soviet times were a deficit
The most popular scents were:
Climate parfum (Lancome). Lancome has discontinued Climate in parfum
Fidji parfum Guy Laroche. (I think you can get Fidji parfum only in Paris. I wrote e mail to Guy Laroche c.s., but haven't received the reply)
Magie Noire
Poisin Dior
Opium YSL

Krasnaja Moskva (Red Moscow) was a very popular scent in soviet times, but, as my mother says, this scent was horrible (she does not like carnations). Russian women wanted to get French perfumes.

There are some Russian designers who have launched their scents f.e. Valentin Yudaskin etc.
I am not very well informed, but I think, that there aren't any good Russian scents.

In Latvia there is old and a very cheap perfume brand - Dzintars. http://www.dzintars.lv/
I do not think you can find among them anything interesting

What is best in perfumery is MADE IN FRANCE
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post #5 of 29
1/4/08 at 12:49pm
What scent would you say is characteristic for Russia? I mean like for example curry is for India, incense for japan, lavender for the south of France, lemon for parts of Italy, you know, the clichés. There must be something like this for (parts of) Russia. No?
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post #6 of 29
1/4/08 at 1:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Domingo View Post

What scent would you say is characteristic for Russia? I mean like for example curry is for India, incense for japan, lavender for the south of France, lemon for parts of Italy, you know, the clichés. There must be something like this for (parts of) Russia. No?

I am Lithuanaian. Lithuania regained the independence in 1990. But 10 years (I was born in 1980) I lived in soviet Lithuania (Lithuania was a part of the Soviet Union). I speak Russian, understand and feel their culture, literature (Cechov, Dostojevskij, Charms et...), humour, movies etc..

And you know what scent comes to my mind when I think of Russia? Not contemporary Russia, reighned by money and power, but Cechov's, Tolstoj's Russia? - it's Tobacco Vanilla by Tom Ford

I just feel the same as written in this qoute from
http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot...-blend_27.html

"It is winter, snow is falling softly, there is the smell of bonfires in the air and the sound of bells...Is it Christmas? Perhaps. It is definitely somewhere in Russia, and most probably even not in the 21st century, maybe even not in the 20th. Tobacco and vanilla go wonderfully well together, and in this particular fragrance the balance of the two accords is perfect".

mikeperez23(or pluran) told in some earlier post abour a Russian woman entering the room and smelling the best vanilla scent ever - Tobacco Vanilla.
For sure, she was rich etc.
Nevertheless my image of Russia,- and the poor one,- is Tobacco Vanilla. Maybe it's Moscow, big theatre where Cechov's "Three sisres" is played. Or it's a small village somwhere in Siberia. Everywhere I can smell Tobacco Vanilla..
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post #7 of 29
1/4/08 at 2:57pm
Thread Starter 
I couldn't have asked for a better more informational post to this thread if I'd have tried.

I need to have a bottle of Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanilla at my side now as I re-read "The Brothers Karamazov" by Dostojevskij.

I read Marina's http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot...-blend_27.html blog all of the time and believe she is either Eastern European or Russian herself.

Thank you so much Dreamer
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post #8 of 29
1/4/08 at 3:05pm
Tobacco Vanille is wonderful stuff. I can't wait to own some soon.
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post #9 of 29
1/4/08 at 3:08pm
I have a good friend who lives in Poland. He told me alot of the guys wear, Salvador Dali, LAGUNA.
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post #10 of 29
1/4/08 at 3:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamerII View Post

mikeperez23(or pluran) told in some earlier post abour a Russian woman entering the room and smelling the best vanilla scent ever - Tobacco Vanilla.
For sure, she was rich etc. Nevertheless my image of Russia,- and the poor one,- is Tobacco Vanilla. Maybe it's Moscow, big theatre where Cechov's "Three sisres" is played. Or it's a small village somwhere in Siberia. Everywhere I can smell Tobacco Vanilla..

One of my clients is from Moscow, her name is Aziel, and one day last September I walked into our conference room and it was filled with the most glorious smell of vanilla. There sat Aizel, dressed head to toe in black, dripping with diamonds - I asked her what she was wearing. Her response was, "Tobacco Vanille from Bergdorfs." She seemed to have bathed in it and as far as I was concerned, it was the way to wear it.
I always think of this captivating woman when I smell it.
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post #11 of 29
1/4/08 at 3:30pm
I have a question: does anybody know Edgar by Dzintars? Some friend is looking for it or for something that smells like Edgar. They used to produce it in Soviet time but I guess now it's discontinued.

So can anybody help? Or should I open a new thread?
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post #12 of 29
1/4/08 at 5:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamerII View Post

mikeperez23(or pluran) told in some earlier post abour a Russian woman entering the room and smelling the best vanilla scent ever - Tobacco Vanilla.
For sure, she was rich etc.

sorry, that story was told by you Ruggles
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post #13 of 29
1/5/08 at 12:00am
OK, I`m from Russia So it`s my duty to respond.

There`re some good perfumes from the brand Novaya Zarya. Krasnaya Moskva (Red Moscow) is amongst them. I should mention that most of frags are made to copy some successes, i.e. Green Tea, Climat, etc. They even mocked some bottles from Guerlain...
I recommend to try Golden Amber, Magic Patchouli - they are good.
And they are cheap enough - between 10 and 30 bucks per 100 ml.

Other brand is MLM-brand - Faberlic, so you need to find your personal consultant - or find them in the web. Their colognes were made by Pierre Bourdon and they are good enough for their price. I use two colognes of them, but there`re many more...
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post #14 of 29
1/5/08 at 4:11am
Isn't it true that back in the Soviet times, they have tried to copy Chanel No. 5 and sold it under a Russian brand?
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post #15 of 29
1/5/08 at 6:48am
Skarb is Polish not Czech.
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post #16 of 29
1/5/08 at 8:36am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_Frances View Post

Skarb is Polish not Czech.

you're right Joe, from The Scented Salamander "Skarb means "treasure" in Polish; it is the name of the first fragrance put out by the niche perfume brand Humiecki and Graef"

I have no idea of the nationalities of the owners of the company. I based my assumption on the ad copy below.

"One is reminded of the tears streaming down on the faces of Czechoslovakian men standing on the streets when the German Nazis invaded Prague in 1938."

reading the two parts of the article in the blog I come away only knowing that this scent is supposed to give allusions of the Slavic experiences during WWII

http://www.humieckiandgraef.com

all of the addresses and phone numbers on the contact page of the H&G site appear to be German
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post #17 of 29
1/5/08 at 9:58am
I saw a "Poppy" scent at the Russian store - is anyone familiar with it? I couldn't try it and I'd already bought enough that day, but the fellow was pushing it.

There`re some good perfumes from the brand Novaya Zarya. Krasnaya Moskva (Red Moscow) is amongst them. I should mention that most of frags are made to copy some successes, i.e. Green Tea, Climat, etc. They even mocked some bottles from Guerlain...
I recommend to try Golden Amber, Magic Patchouli - they are good.
And they are cheap enough - between 10 and 30 bucks per 100 ml.

Other brand is MLM-brand - Faberlic, so you need to find your personal consultant - or find them in the web. Their colognes were made by Pierre Bourdon and they are good enough for their price. I use two colognes of them, but there`re many more...[/QUOTE]
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post #18 of 29
1/5/08 at 2:17pm
Thank you for a very surprising answer, DreamerII! Never would have thought about linking this type of scents to Russia in a million years...

Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanilla is on my next sample list for sure!
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post #19 of 29
1/5/08 at 3:08pm
What about Lobogal? I received a set of their samples, but was not allowed to post a review of it anywhere.
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post #20 of 29
1/5/08 at 5:52pm
If you in Lithuania, look for Juozas Statkevicius Boutique in Vilnius. You can get his Eau de Parfum there.
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post #21 of 29
1/5/08 at 11:17pm
oh, how could I forget Juozas Statkevicius (Statkus)

http://www.statkevicius.com/

He is famous designer and launched the scent, which is available at luckyscents, firstinfragrance etc.

Those, who like CdG Insence , DK Black Cashmere, CL Tumulte for men should try it.

Here is the description of his perfume:
Ingredients text:

Incense is at the very heart of this composition. It embodies contrasts such
as shadow and light, past and modernity, simplicity and complexity, power
and softness. These paradoxes make it one of the most difficult elements to
master in perfume creation, as the perfect harmony can only be reached with
infinitely subtle balances.

By creating a precious case of white jasmine, patchouli, and coriander
around the incense, Fabrice Pellegrin allowed it to reveal its true beauty,
without appearing too dark, to dense or too austere. Vanilla, Benjoin, and
Muscs, also contribute, thanks to their lusciousness and modernity, to
domesticate the incense and let it fully express its ambery and warm notes.

Cashmere wood and coriander bring a noble character and subtly enhance this
indulgent and unique combination, for an intense, authentic and lasting
perception.
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post #22 of 29
1/6/08 at 9:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeram1 View Post

What about Lobogal? I received a set of their samples, but was not allowed to post a review of it anywhere.

Lobogal is the brand of a Russian family - I cannot help with their family name, but I`m pretty sure that it begins with LO. As for other letters BO stands for Boris and GAL stands for Galina - the names of founders.
First pair was good, then they launched trio or quadro of perfumes...
I haven`t dig in their business, - still I think they made it with french perfumers.

Also I remember one more MLM cosmetics brand Mirra-Lux (Myrrhe-Luxe) which used to carry 5 perfumes made by one of the oldest Russian perfumers. And their scents are really good.

By the way - Edgars by Dzintars still available here, in Russia
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post #23 of 29
1/7/08 at 11:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by vezerne View Post

I saw a "Poppy" scent at the Russian store - is anyone familiar with it? I couldn't try it and I'd already bought enough that day, but the fellow was pushing it.

There`re some good perfumes from the brand Novaya Zarya. Krasnaya Moskva (Red Moscow) is amongst them. I should mention that most of frags are made to copy some successes, i.e. Green Tea, Climat, etc. They even mocked some bottles from Guerlain...
I recommend to try Golden Amber, Magic Patchouli - they are good.
And they are cheap enough - between 10 and 30 bucks per 100 ml.

Other brand is MLM-brand - Faberlic, so you need to find your personal consultant - or find them in the web. Their colognes were made by Pierre Bourdon and they are good enough for their price. I use two colognes of them, but there`re many more...

[/QUOTE]

Red Poppy is a famous/infamous perfume from the Soviet era, I believe, but nothing that a Russian woman would wear if she could buy French perfume. My favorite image is of the devil in The Master and Margarita (Bulgakov's novel that inspired the song "Sympathy for the Devil") who comes to town to tempt the Muscovites with French perfume--Caron and Guerlain, as it happens.

CdG has captured a very Russian moment in their Zagorsk incense series--if only the monastery actually smelled as good as the CdG fragrance!
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post #24 of 29
1/7/08 at 11:21am
CdG has captured a very Russian moment in their Zagorsk incense series--if only the monastery actually smelled as good as the CdG fragrance![/QUOTE]

Yes, Zagorsk would be the second scent, which smells Russian
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post #25 of 29
9/13/11 at 10:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post

Lobogal is the brand of a Russian family - I cannot help with their family name, but I`m pretty sure that it begins with LO. As for other letters BO stands for Boris and GAL stands for Galina - the names of founders.
First pair was good, then they launched trio or quadro of perfumes...
I haven`t dig in their business, - still I think they made it with french perfumers.

Also I remember one more MLM cosmetics brand Mirra-Lux (Myrrhe-Luxe) which used to carry 5 perfumes made by one of the oldest Russian perfumers. And their scents are really good.

By the way - Edgars by Dzintars still available here, in Russia

Hello, if you interesting about Mirra-lux products please visit online shop: www.mirra-lux.co.uk. Thanks
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post #26 of 29
9/13/11 at 10:30am
What are some of the contemporary Russian fragrance houses? I am not familiar with any.
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post #27 of 29
9/13/11 at 10:45am
Yes, this is interesting. Anybody else able to shed some light on this subject, or are there NO contemporary Russian fragrance houses?
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post #28 of 29
9/13/11 at 11:17am
Another question, instead of reply: even if this scent is seen as cheap and vile, does anybody know where to purchase "Chypre"- not the Coty classic, but the Russian scent?
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post #29 of 29
9/13/11 at 11:39am
Skarb is definitely a weird and interesting fragrance, though its aquatic notes turn me off as something I would wear. It is a very interesting composition. It reminds me of the smell of a salt marsh on the seashore -- bitter, salty, and marine.
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