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Washington Tremlett BLACK TIE

post #1 of 31
1/9/08 at 2:52am
Thread Starter 
WOW!

I recently discovered this excellent fragrance by English Bespoke Shirt Tailors "Washington Tremlett" whom were responsible for dressing Katherine Hepburn and the theatrical cast of "My Fair Lady". They have also dressed the Onassis family amongst many high profile people. I was also told they are said to have been the ones who originally invented the term "Black Tie".

I sampled two mens scents from their portfolio, and "Black Tie" is a winner! It holds destinct similarities to C&S No.88, but oozes class with its understated composition! Here is how its described online:

A bloomy bouquet, which rises in a heartnote, to perpetuate in a rich basenote of precious woods.

top-note: saffron, nutmeg, galbanum, sage
heart-note: roses, geranium, tuberose
base-note: sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli, musk

It doesnt come cheap (140 for 100ml), but I like the No.88-esque nuances it has to offer, and it will sit nicely alongside it. It will definitely be a future purchase of mine when my cards recover from my recent scent-shopping expedition!

Are there any other BN'ers who have experienced this great fragrance yet?
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post #2 of 31
1/10/08 at 1:13pm
Dimitri,

Can you elaborate on the "distinct similarities to C&S No. 88" and on the "No. 88-esque nuances"?

Also, how prevalent and prominent is the tuberose note in this fragrance?

Would you classify is as a predominantly rose fragrance?

Thanks.

scentemental


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post #3 of 31
1/10/08 at 2:23pm
Also, where can it be obtained? Online?

Edit:

I answered my own question:

http://www.ausliebezumduft.de/index.php?cPath=23_442
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post #4 of 31
1/10/08 at 10:28pm
Thread Starter 
Hi Scentimental,

When I describe BT as being in kind with Czech and Speake's No.88, its not a frivolous observation.... BT really is a scent that shares many similarities.

To me, No.88 is the sensory equivalent of walking into an Indian emporium with thick incense burning, and the scent of rose-water in the air.
Black Tie is cleaner somehow - without the "gritty" dryness of 88s incense-like accords. In fact it smells like good Turkish Delight... beautiful rose and powdered sugar, but also with precious sandalwood burning beneath.
I cannot distinctly detect tuberose, but I do feel it has lent itself to the composition by lifting it into a unique floral blend where rose does take center stage.

BT is not as heavy as 88... there is a transparency to this scent that 88 lacks, but it is distinctly British and evokes feelings of nostalgia and class. In saying this, I felt BT had disappeared on me when I sampled it, but many hours later, still caught the odd whiff as I turned my head... "ooooooooh" I thought, "I smell DAMN good!"...

As posted earlier, when I manage to purchase a bottle, I will enjoy the varied nuances both of these scents have to offer.

It can be bought online at www.ausliebezumduft.de / www.parfumchannel.de / www.thedifferentscent.de and other online retailers.
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post #5 of 31
1/10/08 at 11:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post

Hi Scentimental,

When I describe BT as being in kind with Czech and Speake's No.88, its not a frivolous observation.... BT really is a scent that shares many similarities.

To me, No.88 is the sensory equivalent of walking into an Indian emporium with thick incense burning, and the scent of rose-water in the air.
Black Tie is cleaner somehow - without the "gritty" dryness of 88s incense-like accords. In fact it smells like good Turkish Delight... beautiful rose and powdered sugar, but also with precious sandalwood burning beneath.
I cannot distinctly detect tuberose, but I do feel it has lent itself to the composition by lifting it into a unique floral blend where rose does take center stage.

BT is not as heavy as 88... there is a transparency to this scent that 88 lacks, but it is distinctly British and evokes feelings of nostalgia and class. In saying this, I felt BT had disappeared on me when I sampled it, but many hours later, still caught the odd whiff as I turned my head... "ooooooooh" I thought, "I smell DAMN good!"...

As posted earlier, when I manage to purchase a bottle, I will enjoy the varied nuances both of these scents have to offer.

It can be bought online at www.ausliebezumduft.de / www.parfumchannel.de / www.thedifferentscent.de and other online retailers.


Greetings Dimitri,

An excellent description, and a real top job in describing what sounds like a very interesting fragrance.

I am much obliged.

Many thanks,

scentemental

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post #6 of 31
1/10/08 at 11:33pm
It sounds intriguing and I'm looking forward to trying it. Thanks Dimitri.

Do you smell a lot of saffron?
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post #7 of 31
1/11/08 at 12:11am
Thread Starter 
Hi Pluran,

I can smell saffron, but only in a minute quantity. It lends a sort of honey-like exotic (Persian-style) note to the mix.
Do you like the smell of saffron?

Dimi.
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post #8 of 31
1/11/08 at 12:23am
Dimitri, hearing you rave about this scent made me run for my sample and give it a full wearing today . I will report back later with my impressions. So far it's very pleasant.
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post #9 of 31
1/11/08 at 12:25am
Thread Starter 
Nice one BrothaG!

I look forward to another perspective on this one!
Dimi
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post #10 of 31
1/11/08 at 12:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post

Hi Pluran,

I can smell saffron, but only in a minute quantity. It lends a sort of honey-like exotic (Persian-style) note to the mix.
Do you like the smell of saffron?

Dimi.

Thanks Dimi,

A little saffron goes a long way, but it sounds ok here.

Can't wait to try the stuff.
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post #11 of 31
1/11/08 at 12:55am
Thread Starter 
A little footnote as these 2 scents evolve on my skin... the "Black Tie" is rather linear "what you see is what you get". The rose and spices are as prominent now as they were when first applied.

The No.88 however does tend to change on the dry down... on me, the rose accords recede and the spicy/woody incense-like notes move to the front.
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post #12 of 31
1/11/08 at 6:37am
OK, so I'm wearing Black Tie today and am now pretty far into its drydown. I've never tried No. 88 so I can't compare it to that, but either way you've done a great job describing this scent, Dimitri.

A prominent rose that stays visible all the way through, never too cloying, but clearly of quality like you mentioned. Spicy notes that bring just the right balance and depth.
In the final drydown, it's still very similar to its previous stages, only more mellow and faintly woody. Definitely one of the better rose scents I've tried.
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post #13 of 31
1/11/08 at 6:53am
Thread Starter 
Thanks BrothaG...

I too wanted to report back here... the Black Tie is still going strong on the back of my hand now some 7 hours after application. Its rose accord is superb.

The No.88 is a very whispy puff of dusty incense by now.

As much as I love the No.88, I am personally leaning towards the Washington Tremlett as my preferred of the two. As BrothaG describes above, this is amongst the best rose scents Ive ever experienced.
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post #14 of 31
1/11/08 at 6:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post

Thanks BrothaG...

I too wanted to report back here... the Black Tie is still going strong on the back of my hand now some 7 hours after application. Its rose accord is superb.

The No.88 is a very whispy puff of dusty incense by now.

As much as I love the No.88, I am personally leaning towards the Washington Tremlett as my preferred of the two. As BrothaG describes above, this is amongst the best rose scents Ive ever experienced.

Dmitri, but is it better than Domenico Caraceni???? I like DC better than C&S 88
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post #15 of 31
1/11/08 at 6:56am
You asked the question that was on my mind?
(Now listening, holding ear with left hand)
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post #16 of 31
1/11/08 at 6:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post

You asked the question that was on my mind?
(Now listening, holding ear with left hand)

great minds think alike, dear
I wonder, oh wonder, what he will say????
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post #17 of 31
1/11/08 at 7:02am
Thread Starter 
*giggles*
Shall I or shan't i answer...
*holds breath*....

Actually the truthful response is that I've never had access to Domenico Caraceni, and thus cannot comment. Though Im sure its every bit as delightful as you rtamara and jock suggest it to be.
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post #18 of 31
1/11/08 at 12:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post

*giggles*
Shall I or shan't i answer...
*holds breath*....

Actually the truthful response is that I've never had access to Domenico Caraceni, and thus cannot comment. Though Im sure its every bit as delightful as you rtamara and jock suggest it to be.

SHOCKING!!! Someone get this man some Domenico Caraceni!!
Seriously. I think you may need this one. I spray my sample on myself in the privacy of my home, can't really wear it out, but I surely enjoy it.
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post #19 of 31
1/31/08 at 6:16am
Gents and Ladies,

Black Tie is now available at luckyscent.com!

http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/detai...1603&section=2
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post #20 of 31
3/18/08 at 2:56pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtamara41 View Post

Dmitri, but is it better than Domenico Caraceni???? I like DC better than C&S 88

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtamara41 View Post

SHOCKING!!! Someone get this man some Domenico Caraceni!!

rtamara, I followed your advice, and am now armed with a new Domenico Caraceni edt sample, and will wear it as my SoTD tomorrow (Wednesday). Will let you know how it goes!

As a footnote... I also posted in another thread this evening that there are also similarities between Black Tie and Aoud Lime. Now which to buy??! *groan*
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post #21 of 31
3/20/08 at 12:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post

Hi Scentimental,

When I describe BT as being in kind with Czech and Speake's No.88, its not a frivolous observation.... BT really is a scent that shares many similarities.

To me, No.88 is the sensory equivalent of walking into an Indian emporium with thick incense burning, and the scent of rose-water in the air.
Black Tie is cleaner somehow - without the "gritty" dryness of 88s incense-like accords. In fact it smells like good Turkish Delight... beautiful rose and powdered sugar, but also with precious sandalwood burning beneath.
I cannot distinctly detect tuberose, but I do feel it has lent itself to the composition by lifting it into a unique floral blend where rose does take center stage.

BT is not as heavy as 88... there is a transparency to this scent that 88 lacks, but it is distinctly British and evokes feelings of nostalgia and class. In saying this, I felt BT had disappeared on me when I sampled it, but many hours later, still caught the odd whiff as I turned my head... "ooooooooh" I thought, "I smell DAMN good!"...

As posted earlier, when I manage to purchase a bottle, I will enjoy the varied nuances both of these scents have to offer.

It can be bought online at www.ausliebezumduft.de / www.parfumchannel.de / www.thedifferentscent.de and other online retailers.

I don't smell any similarities between BT & #88. I wear #88 quite regulary and love it dearly. Black Tie just smells awful on me. I've had 2 samples of Black Tie from Luckyscent and Washington Tremlett is pure garbage IMO.
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post #22 of 31
3/20/08 at 12:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebeck View Post

I don't smell any similarities between BT & #88. I wear #88 quite regulary and love it dearly. Black Tie just smells awful on me. I've had 2 samples of Black Tie from Luckyscent and Washington Tremlett is pure garbage IMO.

so you didn't like it?
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post #23 of 31
3/20/08 at 12:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredricktoo View Post

so you didn't like it?


The point being, if there were simalarities I would have liked it. Nothing in common at all.
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post #24 of 31
3/21/08 at 5:51am
I have to disagree with the beck on this one. I really like Black Tie. I think it's excellent.

Black Tie, Washington Tremlett is one the very nicest masculine rose fragrances I've tried. In fact it is probably my favorite of the bunch - except for Rose 31- my favorite. Black Tie doesn't remind me of C&S 88 at all, but in this case that's a good thing as it is much lighter and easier to wear. The fragrance is a diaphanous rose with just a hint of saffron blended + a touch of oud wood + patchouli / vanilla base. Reminds me considerably of some of Montale's lighter rose concoctions like Aoud Damascus or Aoud Rose Petals. The saffron is a minor note that doesn't stand out much but adds a slight textural contrast to the floral lift from the roses, geranium and tuberose. The base is light patchouli tamed with vanilla backdrop to the tapestry of rose and spice mixture. The oud scent is very light, but always present, however the medicinal woodiness might not be oud at all but a cleverly balanced note of patchouli in contrast to the rose. Anyway its a very nice and subtle counterpoint for the lightness of rose. Another very distinctive fragrance to come from a small bespoke clothier.
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post #25 of 31
4/29/08 at 3:18am
Thread Starter 
Just noticed a new Washington Tremlett release on ausliebezumduft: Washington Tremlett - MPH

http://www.ausliebezumduft.de/kosmet...oducts_id=3906
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post #26 of 31
4/29/08 at 9:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzlepuff View Post

The fragrance is a diaphanous rose with just a hint of saffron blended + a touch of oud wood + patchouli / vanilla base. Reminds me considerably of some of Montale's lighter rose concoctions like Aoud Damascus or Aoud Rose Petals.

I must agree. Of course, I wear Black Aoud so much, so when I first smelled BT I automatically made a mental assocation with BA. But later on, it showed itself to be a much more light rose and aoud note - just like AD (I haven't smelled ARP).

I also had an olfactory association when I smelled Black Tie, of the rose in Kelly Caleche by Hermes (the Hermes note pyramid calls it climbing rose) with aoud added.
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post #27 of 31
4/29/08 at 9:28am
Ladys and gentlemen. My previous posts on Black Tie must be disregarded. I ordered another sample and agree with all the positive statements and similarities to #88. It seems Royal Heroes was in my first sample vial instead of Black Tie. No wonder it didn't smell like it was touted. Black Tie is simply awesome.
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post #28 of 31
4/29/08 at 9:53am
Thread Starter 
Lol... I did think your first response was a little "misguided" thebeck!
Glad theres another BT fan in the fold
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post #29 of 31
8/19/11 at 11:59am
I just semi-bling-bought this due to Dimis raving about it and Dimi, your front windows are safe!

Very nice, very sophisticated frag, whose only minor drawback is its short life.
I get 3 hours and afterwards it becomes a nice skin scent bubble.
However, it's nowhere near being a dealbreaker.

Dominant player IMO are obviously the rose but also the Galbanum/sage up top (admittedly I more often than not smell the two together so I have a hard time telling them apart), Geranium during the development and the patchouly base (!).

Very, very nice indeed.
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post #30 of 31
8/19/11 at 12:09pm
I put Tremlett's Black Tie Ahead of Caraceni, Amouage Lyric, Black Aoud and just a little above Rose 31, Paestrum Rose, Tauer's Incense Rose/Rose Chypree or Hotel Costes. I put it above all other Rose Masculines Besides Windsor, No. 88, Vintage Egoiste, and Homage.
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post #31 of 31
8/20/11 at 9:37am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by timaru View Post

I just semi-bling-bought this due to Dimis raving about it and Dimi, your front windows are safe!

Very nice, very sophisticated frag, whose only minor drawback is its short life.
I get 3 hours and afterwards it becomes a nice skin scent bubble.
However, it's nowhere near being a dealbreaker.

Dominant player IMO are obviously the rose but also the Galbanum/sage up top (admittedly I more often than not smell the two together so I have a hard time telling them apart), Geranium during the development and the patchouly base (!).

Very, very nice indeed.

Im pleased it was a favourable outcome timaru!
My fave male rose by far. I find it both rich and transparent at the same time.
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