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Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

post #1 of 50
Thread Starter 
I love things with an old-fashioned, distinguished, weighty, elegant, artistocratic twist to them - and that includes perfume. What would you say are the top 10 perfumes that could be described in such terms?
Anything that would pass as modern, too youthful, unisex, flirty in a "mall" kind of way, candy-trendy would constitute the exact opposite of what I am interested in. Others might be in between...but what are the top 10 old-fashioned, heavy-weights in your opinion?
post #2 of 50
(NO PARTICULAR ORDER)

1.) Youth Dew by Estée Lauder

2.) Bellodgia by Caron

3.) Joy by Jean Patou

4.) Estée Lauder Private Collection (Not really an "old" frag, but smells vintage in its opulence.)

5.) Sirène by Vicky Tiel (")

6.) Fidgi by Guy Laroche (")

7.) Ysatis by Givenchy (")

8.) Must de Cartier (")

9.) Victorian Posy by Penhaligons (")

10.) Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez


Runners up: Ambre Canelle by Creed, Habanita by Molinard, Molinard de Molinard, Je Reviens by Worth, Estée Lauder Beautiful, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Lancôme Magie Noire, Chanel Coco, Chanel #5, Chanel #19, Chanel Cristalle, En Avion by Caron, Organdy by Givenchy, Tabac Blond by Caron, L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain, Estée Lauder Cinnabar, Paris by Yves St. Laurent, Opium by Yves St. Laurent, Volupté by Oscar de la Renta, Champagne/Yvresse by Yves St. Laurent
post #3 of 50
There's old, and then there's old. Other BNers will resurrect the inventions of Guerlain for their lists, so I'll take a slightly different tack.

A number of the fragrances from the perfume shops of New Orleans smell like they have been carried forward from a hundred years ago, some for their innocence, but over-archingly for their simplicity. This does not make them dull, but classic, and truer to the origins of perfumery. However, I have to say I don't think of them as heavyweights, so take that for what it's worth.

If you're sewing up your own historical costume and want to step back in time, I recommend sampling Hové's:
1 RUE ROYALE
2 CAMELLIA
3 TEA OLIVE
4 VETIVERT
5 LAVANDE
6 CLOCHETTES DES BOIS
7 GINGER BLANC
8 PURPLE VIOLET
9 HONEYSUCKLE
10 MAGNOLIA
post #4 of 50
Vol de Nuit
Narcisse Noir
Patou 1000
Joy
Chanel #5
24 Faubourg
Boucheron
Must de Cartier
post #5 of 50
Chanel No 5
Chanel No 19
Bellodgia
Fleur De Rocaille
Joy
Fidgi
Vivara
Cinnabar
Rive Gauche
Tresor
post #6 of 50
Many Carons:
Bellodgia
Poivre
Farnesiana
Fleurs de Rocaille (the original with the S)

Joy
Shocking
Arpege
Bal a Versaille
Jolie Madam
Miss Balmain

Plus Esther Holman's scents all have the classic touch (and I think the 3 sister scents do too)
post #7 of 50
Je Reviens
Shalimar
Infini (Caron)
Sublime (Jean Patou)
Le Dix (Balenciaga)
Coco
Antilope (Weil)
Baghari (Piguet)
Volupte (Oscar de la Renta)
Mystere (Rochas)
post #8 of 50
Memoire Cherie
Blue Grass (original)
Arpege
My Sin
Quadrille
Le Dix
Narcisse Noir
Femme
Mystere
Sortilege (original)
(and 1 more for good measure)
Mademoiselle Ricci
post #9 of 50
Some of the names I'm reading here make me queasy, but not because I dislike them. I remember Ysatis, Tresor, Paris, and Beautiful as modern fragrances I enjoyed when I first began acquiring and wearing perfumes. It's like hearing a favorite song on the radio, and realizing you're listening to the oldies station. Sigh.
post #10 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by an_oud_girl View Post

Some of the names I'm reading here make me queasy, but not because I dislike them. I remember Ysatis, Tresor, Paris, and Beautiful as modern fragrances I enjoyed when I first began acquiring and wearing perfumes. It's like hearing a favorite song on the radio, and realizing you're listening to the oldies station. Sigh.

Again, I listed the ones I listed not because they're "old" or "vintage," but because they're opulent and rich and (per my standards, anyway) almost belong to another era. A lot of Eighties frags are like that -- even in men's frags. (Penhaligons' Eighties frags and Givenchy's 80's frags and many YSL Eighties frags are like that.)
post #11 of 50
Not in order of preference:

Bouquet di Violette Borsari 1890
Après L'ondée - Guerlain 1906
Narcisse Noir - Caron 1911
L'Heure Bleue - Guerlain 1912
Mitsouko - Guerlain 1919
Habanita - Molinard 1921
No. 5 - Chanel 1921
Shalimar - Guerlain 1925
Joy - Patou 1930
Je Reviens Worth 1932
post #12 of 50
I love old-fashioned fragrances. Here are my picks that take me back to another time in history.

Rochas Femme
MItsouko
Chanel No. 5
Chanel No. 22
Shalimar
24 Faubourg (not old, but old-fashioned)
Joy
L'Air du Temps
Fracas
Youth Dew
post #13 of 50
Thread Starter 
Thank you so much for your responses. I just wanted to make a list that I would get to sample in time though i am pretty sure none would surpass #5 in my book, with the exception of maybe lasting power and sillage.

I tried Fracas last year and I wanted really badly to love it because of its strength and "weight"...but unfortunately, the reaction it has with my skin is quite bad. On the one hand I love its "old-fashion"-ness and distinction from today's ligh-weight, superficial fragrances- but on the other hand I have to admit it really stinks on me. My husband said yuck the moment he smelled it on my wrist, a few good hours after applying it.

I would have liked to have it take the role of "evening"perfume in my limited wardrobe but it is not going to happen. I am hoping to find one perfume that is as evening, weighty and prominent as Fracas...but is...not Fracas!
post #14 of 50
I've listed some that I adore and others that simply don't like me but are true old classics. These are in no particular order:

1. Mitsuoko (Guerlain)
2. Bois di Violette (Borsari)
3. Marechale (discontinued Crown Perfumery)
4. Bellodgia (Caron)
5. Joy (Jean Patou)
6. Shalimar (Guerlain)
7. No. 5 (Chanel)
8. My Sin
9. Narcisse Noir (Caron)
10. Je Reviens (Worth)
post #15 of 50
Thread Starter 
Speaking of Fracas...I also tried Baghari Fracas today and it seemed much more amenable than Fracas. A bit more soapy and not offensive. I looked for reviews but there's none. How do you find this one compared to Fracas in terms of lasting power, sillage as well as fragrance itself?...
post #16 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by syracusa View Post

Speaking of Fracas...I also tried Baghari Fracas today and it seemed much more amenable than Fracas. A bit more soapy and not offensive. I looked for reviews but there's none. How do you find this one compared to Fracas in terms of lasting power, sillage as well as fragrance itself?...

Oh Baghari is quite different than Fracas. It has much more of a gourmand quality, lots of sparklly aldehyde. It has jasmine, violet, and rose, and it drys down to a wonderful amber/powder base; delicious. I find it starts out quite strong, has a lovely sillage, and lasts for the whole day. I love Fracas in the summer, but I love Baghari in the cooler weather. Nice choice.
post #17 of 50
I kept trying to come back to the ideas of "heavy weight" as well as "classic," and "feminine." After deliberation, this is my list. The first 4 I like very much and do wear. The following 6, even though I don't wear them, round out the ideas of "classic" and "heavy weight" in my mind.

Shalimar
Joy
Chanel No 5
Chanel No 22
L'Air du Temps
Mitsouko
L'Heure Bleue
Youth Dew
Apres l'Ondee
Narcisse Noir
--------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally Posted by syracusa View Post

I tried Fracas last year and I wanted really badly to love it because of its strength and "weight... On the one hand I love its "old-fashion"-ness and distinction from today's ligh-weight, superficial fragrances- ...

Wow- each to his own. Fracas, to me, is a very modern, clean, bright floral without a hint of powder. I'd never describe it as "weighty" or "old fashioned." Works great with my chemsitry though- a very soft and pretty tuberose scent. This one seems to be love it/hate it with very few reactions inbetween.
post #18 of 50
Caron: Tabac Blond, Narcisse Noir, Nuit de Noël, N'Aimez Que Moi, Poivre
Guerlain: Après l'Ondée, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Shalimar, Vol de Nuit
Jean Patou: Joy, Sublime
Chanel: No 5, Cuir de Russie, Bois des îles, Coco
post #19 of 50
Try Crown of Gold, it has a distinct vintage quality.

To me Fracas smells quite modern, unlike Mitsouko which, although elegant, definitely has an old-worldness to it.
post #20 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chengfun View Post

Try Crown of Gold, it has a distinct vintage quality.

To me Fracas smells quite modern, unlike Mitsouko which, although elegant, definitely has an old-worldness to it.

So interesting to see how a perfume performs differently and comes off so differently for various people. When I first smelled Fracas, it instantly (and I mean INSTANTLY) reminded me of my grandmother's closet, her clothes, her ways ...and those of other women of her generation (though I am not sure she ever acutally had Fracas but I think she may have...I have vague memories of some black perfume bottles...).
To me it smells clearly like Old Europe - which is really nice on the one hand because I miss my childhood land...but on the other hand, when I try to use it myself, it just plain STINKS on me. And I wanted so badly to be able to pull this one off.
It is extremely heavy in a nauseating kind of way; and I am the type who actually prefers stronger perfumes, I tend to avoid the light and airy. Baghari was much better but still far from achieving that "million dollar" sensation that #5 does it on me. This #5 thing that I had avoided for years by virtue of a completely silly belief (OLP) smells unbelievably on me. I never iamgined this could have been exactly the smell I had been looking for - for years. I could literally bathe in this stuff.
My only problem is that I adore the fragrance so much I cannot help noticing its somewhat moderate strenth, power and sillage. Not the best I've seen in this regard. When I walk around with it, all I want to do is to just TALK to the perfume and tell it to JUST SAY IT LOUDER!!!!
On me, #5 performs very discreetly, it is a stay-close-to-the-body perfume...- very different from the "cloying/strong" smell reported by some. While some people love this quality (the discreet-ness), I prefer more spalsh. If only #5 could talk louder, like Fracas does, I would be in heaven.
But the fragrance itself is literally UNBEATABLE in terms of distinction and grace.

My goal is to discover all old-fashiony, elegant perfumes that are very, very close to Chanel #5. I would just like to at least know them all...
--------------------------------------
And speaking of Youth Dew and all other Estee Lauder fragrances. I tried them all once, about a year ago...and I had to conclude that this is a House with perfumes that aspire to be classy but end up in a mediocre, lowly, drug-store fragrance mess upon drydown. Definitely a house I will always stay away from.
post #21 of 50
I have several more, but these are the ones that first came to mind:

Lady Caron
Shocking
Oscar
Mitsouko
Joy
Tabac Blond
Nahema
L' Heure Bleue
Opium
Narcisse Noir
post #22 of 50
Have you tried Liu, by Guerlain? It is a no. 5 smell-alike (I prefer it to 5, but I don't wear either) and may - not sure - have more sillage or strength. Others on the board will know better about that than I. But if you haven't sniffed it, you definitely should.
post #23 of 50
My top ten odlies, in no particular order:

Chanel Cristalle
Chanel No 5
Chanel No 19
L´Heure Bleu
Madame Rochas
Mitsouko
Rive Gauche
Roma
Samsara
Shalimar

Some of these isn´t so very old... I hope these will become classics, too!
--------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally Posted by syracusa View Post

My goal is to discover all old-fashiony, elegant perfumes that are very, very close to Chanel #5. I would just like to at least know them all...

syracusa, you should at least sniff at Madame Rochas, if this is your goal. It was inspired by Chanel No 5 and Arpege, and I do find a bit of No 5 in it. Madame Rochas is creamier, brighter and a little bit louder compared to No 5, at least on my skin...
post #24 of 50
Thread Starter 
Seattlelight and Margareta,

Thank you for the No 5 smell-alike tips - I will definitely try both Madame Rochas and Liu by Guerlain.

At lunch I went on another sniffing ride to try some other oldies.I thought I'd give Joy a try, as I heard it is in the same family as No 5. It was funny. I found it frilly and mediocre in an old-fashion way, a far cry from the authoritative, aristocratic No 5. Not even close - although I can still see how this is a floral.
There was a note in it that conjured images of a lower-middle class anglo woman (more American rather than Enlish), puritanical, with burgeois aspirations, the type who collects dolls, speaks in a high voice, is and lives in a far away suburban MacMansion decorated in kitchy Victorian style...

Bu contrast, No 5 evokes images of the quintessential lady, not exactly "pretty like a flower" in features, but so classy and well-bred that when she steps out of her car (or wherever she steps out from), all others just plain freeze.



I'll see who Madame Rochas and Liu will bring over...)
post #25 of 50
syracusa!

Let Madame Rochas linger on your skin for several hours before judging her. We all have different skins, but if she sings as lovely on your skin as on mine, you will find something very classy, and yet very alive and fun!

I am not a fan of Joy either... I´m holding my fingers crossed that Madame Rochas won´t dissapoint you! Please, let us know here on the board!
post #26 of 50
I will add one that has not been mentioned yet:

Arpege by Lanvin
post #27 of 50
Syracusa writes of joy, "I found it frilly and mediocre in an old-fashion way, a far cry from the authoritative, aristocratic No 5. Not even close - although I can still see how this is a floral. There was a note in it that conjured images of a lower-middle class Anglo woman (more American rather than Enlish), puritanical, with burgeois aspirations, the type who collects dolls, speaks in a high voice, is and lives in a far away suburban MacMansion decorated in kitchy Victorian style."

Really? I don't get that at all from Joy. I find Joy explosively floral and very complex, if a bit dated. What you wrote is, however, an exact description of almost (but not every) Mary Kary women's fragrance I've ever smelled.
post #28 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvlampboy View Post

Syracusa writes of joy, "I found it frilly and mediocre in an old-fashion way, a far cry from the authoritative, aristocratic No 5. Not even close - although I can still see how this is a floral. There was a note in it that conjured images of a lower-middle class Anglo woman (more American rather than Enlish), puritanical, with burgeois aspirations, the type who collects dolls, speaks in a high voice, is and lives in a far away suburban MacMansion decorated in kitchy Victorian style."

Really? I don't get that at all from Joy. I find Joy explosively floral and very complex, if a bit dated. What you wrote is, however, an exact description of almost (but not every) Mary Kary women's fragrance I've ever smelled.

I never smelled Mary Kay anything because I never saw them anywhere; but from what I know about Mary Kay's image, I would stay very away ...anyway.
post #29 of 50
Actually, Mary Kay's Tamerisk for Men was a great frag -- bottles still pop up on eBay, and the frag has its devotees (myself included) here on the board. Quattro wasn't bad, either. I'm just not very familiar with the women's frags. The ones I've smelled were pretty bad, but that's not to say they all are. As with Avon (another company that produces mostly dreck), though, there are definite exceptions. I bought three bottles of Mesmerize for Men for gifts last year; all were greatly appreciated. Even today, I get weepy when I smell Sweet Honesty (my paternal aunt's frag of choice when I was young). Even the lesser companies still turn out a winner now and again.
post #30 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Margareta View Post

syracusa!

Let Madame Rochas linger on your skin for several hours before judging her. We all have different skins, but if she sings as lovely on your skin as on mine, you will find something very classy, and yet very alive and fun!

I am not a fan of Joy either... I´m holding my fingers crossed that Madame Rochas won´t dissapoint you! Please, let us know here on the board!

Margareta,

I will certainly try this one. I've been meaning to for a while because my mom mentioned it a few times and funnily enough, I remember LOVING, as a child, all fragrances my mom used to wear when she was young (No 5, L'Air du Temps and Madame Rochas). I am always surprised when I hear women saying that they don't want to smell like their mothers. I am the exact opposite, if I could smell EXACTLY like my mother used to when she was young and wearing all those hot perfumes - I would be SOOO happy. I just don't think I have her great chemistry.

So Madame Rochas is surely an upcoming sniff. Trouble is I don't know where to get it from. I haven't seen it anywhere. Who carries it?
post #31 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by an_oud_girl View Post

Some of the names I'm reading here make me queasy, but not because I dislike them. I remember Ysatis, Tresor, Paris, and Beautiful as modern fragrances I enjoyed when I first began acquiring and wearing perfumes. It's like hearing a favorite song on the radio, and realizing you're listening to the oldies station. Sigh.

Yup. Big ditto from me. :-(
post #32 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvlampboy View Post

Syracusa writes of joy, "I found it frilly and mediocre in an old-fashion way, a far cry from the authoritative, aristocratic No 5. Not even close - although I can still see how this is a floral. There was a note in it that conjured images of a lower-middle class Anglo woman (more American rather than Enlish), puritanical, with burgeois aspirations, the type who collects dolls, speaks in a high voice, is and lives in a far away suburban MacMansion decorated in kitchy Victorian style."

Really? I don't get that at all from Joy. I find Joy explosively floral and very complex, if a bit dated. What you wrote is, however, an exact description of almost (but not every) Mary Kary women's fragrance I've ever smelled.

OK...maybe I was a little harsh with Joy. I just re-smelled the little white card I sprayed and once it settles, IT IS better, though nowhere close to No 5. However, the first impression I got at the store was terribly frilly and lilac-smelling (though I don't think it's got such a note in it).

But you're right, I am no longer sure about the kitchy Victorian suburban housewife...
post #33 of 50
Try Burlington Coat Factory if there's one nearby. The ones here and in Kansas City always have it, it seems.
post #34 of 50
This would be my list:

Narcisse Noir
Shalimar
L'Heure Bleue
Chant d' Aromes
Eau de Soir
1000 de Patou
Arpege
My Sin
Fille D'Eve
Joy (you need to smell this one agaiun, maybe several times)


Also: Femme de Rochas, Jolie Madame, Balmain de Balmain, L'Interdit (the original), 24, Faubourg, Cuir de Russie, Chanel # 22, Angelique Encens, deneuve, Bakir, Replique, Parure, Le Dix, dieci
post #35 of 50
Can't believe nobody said Creed Vintage Tabarome. This is the stuff Bogart and Churchill wore. My favorite scent, but please apply sparingly lest you will smell like a humidor.
post #36 of 50
These are not necessarily haute couture, but some my from my grandmother, mother and a girlfriend or 2. Not necessarily old, as in classic.

My Sin
Chanel #5
Emeraude
Cachet
Wind Song
l'air du Temps
Chantilly
Tussy
Various Avon Scents

I always remember an old (probably DeVilbiss) atomzier on my grandmother's vanity, but I haven't a clue what was in it.
post #37 of 50
Here are my Top ten OF, NM Fragrances:

Chanel No.5
Eau Sauvage
Tweed (my Mum wore this)
Arpege
L'Air du Temps
Youth Dew
Habanita
L'Aimant (my Aunt's standby)
Jicky
Shalimar
post #38 of 50
Thanks Ladies .. I now have a nice list to choose from for gifts for mom & my aunt .. cheers .
post #39 of 50
I just tried Joy for the first time today. (I love all the old Guerlains.) It seemed like straight jasmine! It is strong, but I don't get any elegance, structure, complexity...maybe a little warmth under the jasmineand that's it. It smells like something my 5-year-old could wear to a birthday party. Maybe I need to smell it next to a drugstore jasmine scent to appreciate it more.
post #40 of 50
Thread Starter 
The only one I like from Patou is Sublime. The others are just plain...wrong.
post #41 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by syracusa View Post

The only one I like from Patou is Sublime. The others are just plain...wrong.

That is funny, I love all of the Patou fragrances (Ma Collection), but cannot wear Sublime. I have tried, and would love to; the newest scent from Patou that agrees with me is Ma Liberte, and sometimes we do not interact well.
Tell me how Sublime is on you, I would love to hear.
post #42 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by syracusa View Post

So interesting to see how a perfume performs differently and comes off so differently for various people.

My goal is to discover all old-fashiony, elegant perfumes that are very, very close to Chanel #5. I would just like to at least know them all...

I find it endlessly fascinating how different skins and noses react to these little bottles of chemicals we love so much. And like you, Syracusa, I am currently exploring 'the classics'. I feel I should know what Arpege and Joy smell like, as if it's a stage of my perfume education. Perhaps it's a maturity thing (in perfume-loving terms, not age).

You were asking where to find Madame Rochas - it seems to be widely available in online discounters at the moment. As are so many of these classics.
post #43 of 50
Chanel N°5 by Chanel
Opium by Yves Saint Laurent
Youth-Dew by Estee Lauder
L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain
Mitsouko by Guerlain
Cabochard by Gres
Bandit by Robert Piguet
Habanita by Molinard
L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci
Arpege by Lanvin
post #44 of 50
I think you would enjoy vintage Coty L'Aimant, another aldehydic floral in the same family as N°5, but slightly warmer, rounder and more carnal, for lack of a better word. It's lovely. By all accounts the current formulation is a far cry from what it used to be, though, and it's easily available in vintage formulations.
post #45 of 50
If you already know Fracas just give a chance to the other side of the coin : Bandit. May be it will work
post #46 of 50
I like Sublime once you get past the opening note, which I think is that synthetic pineapple-like aromachemical. However, my decant is a couple of years old and may well be an older version.
post #47 of 50
My favourites types of perfume!

First by Van Cleef and Arpels
Visa and Bandit by Robert Piguet
Eau de Cartier
Mitsouko by Guerlain
Sublime by Jean Patou

The old French perfumes have a richness and class you just don't get now
post #48 of 50
Those of you who like Chanel Nº5 will very probably enjoy Amouage's Gold . Syracuse, I would say that fits your definition in the opening message of this thread.
post #49 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrs H View Post


The old French perfumes have a richness and class you just don't get now

I can't agree more.
post #50 of 50
I love:

Samsara - to me, it's a bit modern actually - a very pretty jasmine/sandlewood scent
Opium
Coco
Diorella
Cabochard
Safari
Jean Louis Scherrer
Halston - love this one!
Mackie
Nicole Miller
Fracas - I love this one too. The body lotion is particularly beautiful.

oops, is that more than 10?
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