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Burr gives Paestum Rose by l'Eau d'Italie 5 stars

post #1 of 31
1/25/08 at 7:14am
Thread Starter 
'Its rose aspect is ancient, blended with the smell of old stone Paestum was a classical Roman city known for its roses yet it also somehow (heres the trick) smells utterly contemporary...'

Read more here: http://themoment.blogs.nytimes.com/2...-leau-ditalie/
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post #2 of 31
1/25/08 at 7:38am
Seeing as I am unfamiliar with this perfume, anyone who knows concur with this review?
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post #3 of 31
1/25/08 at 7:47am
I love and own 2 of the Eau d'Italie fragrances, but this one didn't work for me.
I found the rose to be too literal and loud for me. I had the same problem with Twill Rose.
Both seemed more feminine than unisex.
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post #4 of 31
1/25/08 at 9:49am
Thread Starter 
I haven't smelled it.

Am I the only one that reads Burr's review as a similar description of Domenico Caraceni? Or for that matter, No. 88 by Czech & Speake.
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post #5 of 31
1/25/08 at 10:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

I haven't smelled it.

Am I the only one that reads Burr's review as a similar description of Domenico Caraceni? Or for that matter, No. 88 by Czech & Speake.

There are similarities between these three. They are all highly complex blends with Rose as a prominent feature. For me, they all suffer the same problem of trying to "masculinise" the rose by slapping lots of traditionally masculine notes around it. Paestum Rose does that the least but is so complex that my nose gets grumpy, like a room full of colours and I don't know where to look. No. 88 is my favourite as it seems to have more clarity to me. DC is clearly a very good blend but to me the spice and rose just seem to belong in different places, I do need to test it further though.

In general I prefer fewer, clearer notes and rose works best for me with less going on around it. A great rose note is one of my favourite things in the world and I find it annoying when it is obscured with clutter.

Pass the Fleurs de The Rose Bulgare this way .
Montale Attar? Yes please.
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post #6 of 31
1/25/08 at 10:20am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post

Paestum Rose does that the least but is so complex that my nose gets grumpy, like a room full of colours and I don't know where to look.

Love that description hirch.

Overall, I think I enjoy 'busy' fragrances. But I can easily understand the oddity of a 'busy' rose fragrance and conversely the comfort of a simple, understated rose fragrance.

It's funny you give props to the Bulgari rose scent. Renee (rtamara41) spoke about it on the 'mind f*ck' thread quite glowingly and although Bulgari are not one of my favorite houses, I definitely want to smell it next time I'm at Sephora. I guess I assumed it would be too feminine, but I looks like I guessed wrong.
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post #7 of 31
1/25/08 at 10:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Love that description hirch.

Overall, I think I enjoy 'busy' fragrances. But I can easily understand the oddity of a 'busy' rose fragrance and conversely the comfort of a simple, understated rose fragrance.

It's funny you give props to the Bulgari rose scent. Renee (rtamara41) spoke about it on the 'mind f*ck' thread quite glowingly and although Bulgari are not one of my favorite houses, I definitely want to smell it next time I'm at Sephora. I guess I assumed it would be too feminine, but I looks like I guessed wrong.


That is Creed's Fleurs de The Roise Bulgare (translates as Flowers of Bulgarian Tea Rose). Though I am not usually a wearer of feminine scents and I like my traditional masculines, I find rose not to be a feminine note for me.

Not a big bulgari fan myself.
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post #8 of 31
1/25/08 at 10:40am
This Rose deserves her 5 stars, because, if it works with your skin, this scent is an amazingly dark and spicy beauty. Blooming black roses (just imagine, because we have orchids as well somewhere else )with some dusty incense, and a dash of oriental spices, giving that refreshing feeling some perfumes of the far East do. A dark violet scarf of thick, buttery silk.
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post #9 of 31
1/25/08 at 10:40am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post

That is Creed's Fleurs de The Roise Bulgare (translates as Flowers of Bulgarian Tea Rose). Though I am not usually a wearer of feminine scents and I like my traditional masculines, I find rose not to be a feminine note for me.

Not a big bulgari fan myself.

OK, got it.
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post #10 of 31
1/25/08 at 10:56am
I gotta say, this Paestum Rose fragrance intrigues me and I hope to smell it one day - Duchaufour is certainly the king of darkness/master of incense. Perhaps hirch or others who have worn it can describe it in more detail ?

As for Hirch's vote for less cluttered rose fragrances, nothing beats Creed's Fleurs de Bulgarie in my book - the stunning mix of bulgarian roses, a bit of bergamot, and ambergris and musk (all of the highest quality) results in a fragrance which is very wearable by men after 20mins. The private collection Fleurs de the Rose Bulgare is suprisingly unisex as well, with a lot of tangy green notes mixing with bulgarian roses. Fleurs de The Rose Bulgare is more suitable for spring and summer and yea I think its suitable for men from the first spray !
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post #11 of 31
1/25/08 at 11:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post

In general I prefer fewer, clearer notes and rose works best for me with less going on around it. A great rose note is one of my favourite things in the world and I find it annoying when it is obscured with clutter. Pass the Fleurs de The Rose Bulgare this way

Creed's use of the Bulgarian rose note is genius. Their Fleurs de Bulgarie (new), is a rose, jasmine, ambergris and musk powerhouse. As striking as Montale's Black Aoud.
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post #12 of 31
1/25/08 at 12:04pm
someone gave me a sample of Paestum Rose, along with two other of the Eau d'Italie scents, and I know I will buy this. I've come to realize that I adore rose-based scents; C&S No. 88 and Black Aoud (as well as Attar) are utterly captivating, not to mention far afield from the everyday. However, from the small amount I own, PR is my favorite of the lot. Far and away my favorite of the lot. Not quite sure how so, but to my mind it is the use of incense, making it very dry and not at all sweet.
The only disparaging things I would ever say about 88 and BA is that I find situations where I wouldn't wear them, albeit few. The PR might very well be my own holy grail, and I'm convinced it's not at all the thrill of the hunt: the one that I don't own yet.
I would also give it five stars out of five, but I'd do the same for C&S and Montale. If one can see a place for both No. 88 and Black Aoud in one's collection, I'd say there's also a spot for Paestum Rose.
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post #13 of 31
1/25/08 at 12:30pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zztopp View Post

I gotta say, this Paestum Rose fragrance intrigues me and I hope to smell it one day - Duchaufour is certainly the king of darkness/master of incense. Perhaps hirch or others who have worn it can describe it in more detail ?

I haven't smelled it.

However I found a review of it at NowSmellThis from 2006. Quoting, 'Paestum Rose starts with a rush of peppery spices, but it quickly settles into a softer blend, with the black currant adding a touch of sweetness. The florals come on slowly, and like the spices, they are soft...' Article here.

'
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post #14 of 31
1/25/08 at 5:40pm
I love Paestum Rose and have recommended it a few times before to some BNers seeking recommendations for rose fragrances. I am not sure if there are a lot of fans here for this fragrance but everyone should at least get the chance to smell it. An unusual take on rose with an excellent, comforting drydown.
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post #15 of 31
1/25/08 at 5:42pm
I look forward to trying it -- I certainly love Bois d'Ombrie.
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post #16 of 31
1/30/08 at 5:05pm
Got a sample from Aedes today along with Parfum de Rosine. Paestum Rose is a spicy, waxy rose with some tea notes and incense. I'm not blown away by it. For me It's in the same school as Iquitos: LOUD.
The Rosine, I don't remember which one it is, is much more subtle and natural, it may be too femme for me though.
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post #17 of 31
1/30/08 at 5:53pm
Paestum Rose - 5 ? I understand he also sees D&G Light Blue (f) as "transcendental" - 5
But how does that relate to Guerlain, Rose Barbare - 2
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post #18 of 31
1/31/08 at 12:54am
Narcus, as far as I can remeber, when I smelled Rose Barbare chez Guerlain in Paris more than one yeah ago it left me completely cold. Nothing thrilled me at all there while I went completely nuts over Bois d'Armenie
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post #19 of 31
1/31/08 at 5:52am
If you've smelled CDG's Ouarzazate, you've smelled Paestum Rose. They're remarkably similar, with of course the addition of rose (although its very subtle).

I realize Duchaufour didn't create Ouarzazate, but it seems so fitting that he should have! Its like the same platform was used, but in a different context. Similar to how a similar base was used for his Rhubarb by CDG as Piment Brulant by L'Artisan. Although based on completely different aspects, they share similar ingredients that link them.

I'll stop rambling...Paestum Rose is quite nice, but having already owned the CDG, it didn't make my "must-have" list.
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post #20 of 31
1/31/08 at 9:11am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnifiscent View Post

Narcus, as far as I can remeber, when I smelled Rose Barbare chez Guerlain in Paris more than one yeah ago it left me completely cold. Nothing thrilled me at all there while I went completely nuts over Bois d'Armenie

So many other people have comments similar to yours Magnifiscent. When I first heard about Rose Barbare I was instantly excited: Guerlain; rose; Francis Kurkdjian - what more could a rose lover ask for.

But ultimately I think Bois d'Armenie (which I have smelled, and LOVE) stole the thunder from Rose Barbare. It's just not different enough, it seems, to warrant getting a lot of admirers here and elsewhere.
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post #21 of 31
1/31/08 at 9:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

It's just not different enough, it seems, to warrant getting a lot of admirers here and elsewhere.

Totally agreed, it's not bad... it's just another average classic rose themed scent, not enough to justify any excitement and even more the price.
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post #22 of 31
1/31/08 at 10:19am
I've always really like this one, to me it smells of apple cider with a bit of rose. Very warm and comforting.
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post #23 of 31
6/18/08 at 3:43pm
Snatched up a bottle of this cheap & I'm liking it alot. A little like the "Hotel Costes" of rose scents (do all hotel lines do the laid back fragrance thing?). I find the bottle design horrid, actually, but the juice is comforting, less melancholy-macho than Caraceni and not as gothic and demanding as 88. Transparently light citrus, spices and sweetness frame a delightful, center-stage rose note, with presence, but not loud on me at all. Lightly applied this will do for me what Aoud Damascus failed at (it was simply banal on me rather than comforting).
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post #24 of 31
6/18/08 at 10:27pm
What's left a few hours later is a dead ringer for Burberry Brit . Not a bad thing in my book.
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post #25 of 31
6/19/08 at 1:46am
Btw, Mike, did you have finally the chance to smell Paestum Rose which was actually the topic of this thread? I did and at least on me smells fabulous.
Ruggles, I must say on me it doesn't turn so spicy and loud, quite far from iquitos. The rose note is really good, made dewy by peony and stays "liquid" and running through all the stages of the scent. I can see just hints of pepper and green currant leaves on the top, but the drydown it's a marvellous blend of resins where mhyrr, opoponax and benzoin rule with a sweet yet not cloying balsamic creamyness, something thick but not obstusive in which the dewy rose is still trapped and preserved. It's totally unisex to me and maybe even a bit on the masculine dandish side.
If I'd have to compare it with other masculine roses I'd say this is close to No. 88 where the incense and soapy notes have been totally replaced by dense resins and hints of spices. Again I don't recall the stones and temples link even if I see the 5 stars (but I'm nuts over mhyrr and resins hehe), it doesn't smell of stones like i.e. Messe de Minuit does. The only links with the roman Paestum can be two: the town was described by the historics as a place with wonderful roses growing first, and second balsams and resins were heavily used at the time of romans in perfumery as vehicles for mixing scented oils. that's all.
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post #26 of 31
6/19/08 at 2:26am
Parfums de Nicolai do two excellent Rose scents which I have had the pleasure of recently. Rose Pivoine (stunning and very sexy on a woman) and Jardin Secret which uses (I think) Moroccan roses and is both rare and spectacularly beautiful, with a long slow drydown.
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post #27 of 31
6/24/08 at 7:05pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnifiscent View Post

Btw, Mike, did you have finally the chance to smell Paestum Rose which was actually the topic of this thread? I did and at least on me smells fabulous.

I have not Magnifiscent - but thanks for the reminder. So many scents to sample...

Here's the thing: I haven't liked any of the L'Eau d'Italie scents I've tried, which surprised me because I usually love Duchaufour's creations. But a few of his scents (Timbuktu, Dzonghka, Eau d'Italie, Bois D'Ombrie...) I really don't like. Then there's others (Jubilation XXV, Piment Brulant, Avignon) that I absolutely love. I guess I'm approaching Paestum Rose cautiously.
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post #28 of 31
6/25/08 at 1:09am
Oh c'mon boy, don't be shy, you have the gupts for it I know
Jokes aside, when I first tried Dzonghka I was a bit skeptical due to the fact that, despite I can see the charm of Timbuktu per se, on me it's just blah, smoked candifloss, simply uninteresting and plain. But then I tried Dzonghka and on me it's simply WoW! Same for the Eau d'Italie where L'Eau d'Italie was not that great deal while the others are stunning; I also tried the last Magnolia Romana and it's really original and pleasant, an ozonic and green floral staying on the dry sparkling side. Absolutely unisex and intriguing for a maglolia lover.
Same for Paestum Rose, I really look forward to knowing your thoughts Mike.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

I have not Magnifiscent - but thanks for the reminder. So many scents to sample...

Here's the thing: I haven't liked any of the L'Eau d'Italie scents I've tried, which surprised me because I usually love Duchaufour's creations. But a few of his scents (Timbuktu, Dzonghka, Eau d'Italie, Bois D'Ombrie...) I really don't like. Then there's others (Jubilation XXV, Piment Brulant, Avignon) that I absolutely love. I guess I'm approaching Paestum Rose cautiously.
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post #29 of 31
7/25/08 at 2:52pm
My wife just bought a bottle of this today. She snached it up at first whiff. Amazing spicy rose scent, my favorite of all her perfumes.
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post #30 of 31
7/28/08 at 2:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post

I love and own 2 of the Eau d'Italie fragrances, but this one didn't work for me.
I found the rose to be too literal and loud for me. I had the same problem with Twill Rose.
Both seemed more feminine than unisex.

Which ones have you got and what do you think of them?

Can't say that the bottles are exactly knocking me out, but a couple of the descriptions sound very interesting.
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post #31 of 31
7/28/08 at 7:48pm
Thread Starter 
I smelled this finally!

I was at the Duty Free in Newark Airport and doused about 3-4 sprays on, during my 5 hour layover there. I liked it! I get the slight apple cider vinegar note bront82 mentioned - but, it didn't ruin the scent profile and just further deepened the rose accord. I need to sample again, but for now I was impressed.
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