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New Hermes Un Jardin apres la Mousson - article from WWD

post #1 of 32
Thread Starter 
Copied from WWD Online article (link here: http://www.wwd.com/search/article/122805)

Hermes Garden Grows With Third Jardins Fragrance
By Ellen Groves

PARIS India in monsoon season inspired Hermès Parfums' latest eau.

The scent, called Un Jardin après la Mousson, or a Garden After the Monsoon, in English, will bow in May as part of the French luxury brand's yearlong tribute to India.

For the third fragrance in the Jardins series, Jean-Claude Ellena, Hermès' in-house perfumer, traveled to Kerala, in southwestern India, where he was inspired by nature's revival following the region's annual rainy season. The global introduction of the unisex scent, which features vegetal, floral and spicy notes, will coincide with the beginning of the monsoon period in Kerala.

With the latest addition, Hermès executives expect the Jardins series, which also includes Un Jardin en Mediterannée and Un Jardin sur le Nil, to generate a quarter of its fragrance sales in 2008. Last year, Hermès' fragrance sales grew 20 percent year-on-year to 118.9 million euros, or $163 million at average exchange. Industry sources estimate Un Jardin après la Mousson will generate 16 million euros, or $24 million at current exchange, at wholesale in its first year.

"The Jardins series' particularity is that it's a meeting between Hermès' yearly theme, its perfumer and a place," explained Catherine Fulconis, Hermès Parfums managing director.

For Un Jardin après la Mousson, Ellena wanted to capture an unexpected aspect of India, so he visited Kerala several weeks after the long-awaited monsoon rains ended when nature had started to spring back to life. Though Kerala is a region renowned for its spices, Ellena eschewed hot spicy notes in favor of cooler vegetable notes such as cardamom, coriander, pepper, ginger and ginger flower. He also included a vetiver accord of his own creation.

"In India, your senses are arrested everywhere, you have a desire for calm," explained Fulconis. "This was the idea of après la Mousson. While India abounds in colors and noise, with this fragrance, one has a moment of rest."

The fragrance's heavy glass bottle resembles those of the other scents in the Jardins collection. Its graduated green and blue color recalls the clouds of a monsoon and the vivid green of nature reborn. A frieze on its outer carton, designed by artist Karen Petrossian, who has also created Hermès scarves, is a playful take on nature, featuring elephants and monkeys taking refuge under umbrellas.

The eau de toilette will be available as 100- and 50-ml. sprays, priced at 83 euros, or $122 at current exchange, and 60 euros, or $88, respectively. The fragrance's ancillary line includes a body lotion and a bath and shower gel, priced at 39 euros, or $57, and 33 euros, or $49, respectively, for 200 ml., as well as a body mist for 42 euros, or $62, and a dry oil for 40 euros, or $59, both 100 ml.

A gift set containing a 100-ml. fragrance, a scented home decoration and a book by journalist Sarina Lewis, published in eight languages, including Malayalam, the language of Kerala, will be sold in Hermès boutiques and select department stores for 115 euros, or $169.

Single-page advertising, created by the Publicis agency, shows an elephant's trunk shielding the fragrance from monsoon raindrops with a leaf.
post #2 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

For Un Jardin après la Mousson, Ellena wanted to capture an unexpected aspect of India, so he visited Kerala several weeks after the long-awaited monsoon rains ended when nature had started to spring back to life. Though Kerala is a region renowned for its spices, Ellena eschewed hot spicy notes in favor of cooler vegetable notes such as cardamom, coriander, pepper, ginger and ginger flower. He also included a vetiver accord of his own creation.

Sounds very interesting. I look forward to trying it.
post #3 of 32
Thanks for posting Mike.
Can't say I'm excited though on the basis of the other ones or Elenas recent creations.
post #4 of 32
Thanks for reporting! I do want to test it but I agree that my excitment is reserved. I think sur le nil is fresh but honestly it is too fem for my nose to handle. I do love it on women though. I have had a soft spot for the meditereanee and I go back and for with my torrent love affair with it. Most recnetly I was thinking of ordering some more. Everytime I do though, it gets cloying on me and sooner or later, I get rid of it.
post #5 of 32
Kerala? It has to have a banana note.

Come on Ellena, wave those two scent strips of vanilla and peach and conjure the smell of banana before our unbelieving eyes!
post #6 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by zztopp View Post

Kerala? It has to have a banana note.

Come on Ellena, wave those two scent strips of vanilla and peach and conjure the smell of banana before our unbelieving eyes!




The scent of "impression of banana".
post #7 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post



The scent of "impression of banana".

Pardon my french for I thought it was just another excuse for Ellena to use his favorite notes like cardamom, coriander, pepper, ginger in yet another creation ( I am coming off a heavy Ellena testing session burning my nose off on Declaration, Angelique sous, and p. samarcande)
post #8 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post

Thanks for posting Mike.
Can't say I'm excited though on the basis of the other ones or Elenas recent creations.

My thoughts as well...
post #9 of 32
Something to look forward to! I fell for BOTH of the earlier "Jardin"s in transit at London Heathrow and boarded the next plane a proud owner of two new Hermes fragrances (talk about buying impulsively as I only had minutes to make a flight connection) - and before I knew Basenotes existed! I didn't realize I was being such a help to Hermes sales at the time.
Thanks for yet another great post!
post #10 of 32
Thread Starter 
You're welcome all.

Un Jardin sur le Nil was the fragrance (along with Ambre Sultan) that brought me into Basenotes. It will always evoke wonderful memories for me.

Most likely I will be buying the new Jardin blind. I'm that excited!
post #11 of 32
I enjoy the two Jardins quite a bit. My nose is not as sophisticated as Basenoters that precede me. I just know what I smell and I know what I like. I'll be looking towards the decants and will pick one up when they're available.
post #12 of 32
This scent and Comme des Garcon's 888 are 2 that I can't wait to sample.
Gary
post #13 of 32
i find the whole series beautiful so far, although too sheer to wear myself. i'd almost buy them just to sniff in the privacy of my home...
post #14 of 32
I thought Nil was a tad too feminine for me at first as well, but I grew to love it and get compliments when I wear it so who cares? I also like Mediteranee, but what I like in it is what's similar to Nil and what I don't like is the fig note which is not a favorite. I am very eager to try Mousson!
post #15 of 32
i bought un jardin sur de nil blind and although i do find it overall pleasant....i was dissapointed......maybe its a bad bottle, maybe its just me but all i pick up is linear grapefruit note which is pleasant but not inspiring in any way, shape or form......i thought Mediterranee was a bit better, because i sensed sweeter notes that i felt were missing from sur De nil....

i will be looking forward to the new fragrance, but i will not make that mistake again and purchase a full bottle blindly.
post #16 of 32
i love fragrances the "resemble" wet vegetation (excluding demter's...)
if this has similarities to the character of Angeliques sous la pluie.......i'm probably going to love it since im in a "sweet vegetal" phase

estimated release in US?

Quote:
Originally Posted by G.303 View Post

This scent and Comme des Garcon's 888 are 2 that I can't wait to sample.
Gary

ditto
post #17 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by squirrelmilk View Post

estimated release in US?

...the scent, called Un Jardin après la Mousson, or a Garden After the Monsoon, in English, will bow in May as part of the French luxury brand's yearlong tribute to India...
post #18 of 32
Supposed to be released in May according to Robin (nowsmellthis)

edit: mike outdraws me again
post #19 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

...the scent, called Un Jardin après la Mousson, or a Garden After the Monsoon, in English, will bow in May as part of the French luxury brand's yearlong tribute to India...

oh...ma bad

perfect! by then, i have money for my hermès wallet!
post #20 of 32
Thanks Mike. Elena is hit or miss for me, not when it comes to great scents but whether they are feminine or masculine. I own both the Jardins but Nil is too feminine for my liking.

TNMA
post #21 of 32
After finishing the Ellena-Hermes part of Perfect Scent I wondered if Hermes had given up on the Indian garden altogether. But here it comes. Thanks, Mike! Catherine Fulconis, Hermès (new?) Parfums managing director seems to be the real news, though. I had almost developed an affection for Mme Gautier . She and Ellena seemed to get along particularly well.

Mine is a rather unemotional respect for Ellena's concepts. I do not need Terre d'H on myself. I love him for Globe and Eau de Campagne, but these were starting points he seems to have moved away from. All of his more recent perfumes are best suited for modern women with limited needs or time for romantic hours. They all have class, though!
post #22 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

You're welcome all.

Un Jardin sur le Nil was the fragrance (along with Ambre Sultan) that brought me into Basenotes. It will always evoke wonderful memories for me.

Most likely I will be buying the new Jardin blind. I'm that excited!

I am as well! I have a bottle of the Un Jardin en Méditerranée and will be sampling the new one as soon as I can!!

(I do note that it looks to be marketed as a woman's scent rather than unisex. I wonder what that means as far as juice?)
post #23 of 32
I think what a lot people don't realise about Sur Le Nil is that it needs to be under-sprayed to get the best out of it. It's really potent and has massive sillage and longevity. I really wish half the frags I bought had this amount of muscle. I can wear one spray of this divided between two palms and adorned accordingly and that is enough. Anymore and you are going to start over-powering small countries.

It is a wonderful scent though for a warm day. While the rest of the fragrance market is fetishistically going for their "zesty citrus opening", Sur Le Nil is just as refreshing but soooo different.
post #24 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bromo33333 View Post

(I do note that it looks to be marketed as a woman's scent rather than unisex. I wonder what that means as far as juice?)

Hermes has always marketed the Jardin's as unisex - I am surprised at your concern. What, to you, looks like Hermes is marketing the scent to women?
post #25 of 32
This is one that I can't wait to sample.
Gary
post #26 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Hermes has always marketed the Jardin's as unisex - I am surprised at your concern. What, to you, looks like Hermes is marketing the scent to women?

Don't people agree here that fragrance classification should be secondary for your decision what to wear and what not? If that's true for the 'feminines' it must be valid for 'unisex' fragrances also. "Equally suited for men and women" is just another classification given by the house. At least two thirds of all fragrances offered by Malle, Lutens, and some others - without gender specification - have been designed with a female wearer on mind, I am sure. The Jardins just smell like a womans dream, and the bottles underline the impression. Where do you buy them in America - ladies counters or men's?
post #27 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by narcus View Post

The Jardins just smell like a womans dream, and the bottles underline the impression. Where do you buy them in America - ladies counters or men's?

Womens counters
post #28 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Womens counters

Yuppers.

But the concern was the unisex designation for the previous 2 in the database here and "female" for the new one.

This would not stop me, but I do enjoy the herbaceous quality of the perfumes that one could not pin down to any sex in particular even with a conservative approach to notes and scents.

I was just wondering if they kept up this in the new one, or had they decided differently?
post #29 of 32
Thank you so much for the article...i can't wait to test it out.
post #30 of 32
Thread Starter 
In my post above, I was expressing my surprise at what I thought was Bromo suggesting that Hermes the company itself was marketing the Jardins to women.

I never thought this was the case. Yes, American shops do this. Basenotes database does this. But Hermes, I thought, always marketed all of the Jardin's as unisex.

Is this correct?
post #31 of 32
well you can look at the hermes website. the jardin series are in the mixte category
post #32 of 32
Thread Starter 
I just found out there here in the US, the new Jardin will be exclusive to Saks Fifth Avenue (and the Hermes boutiques) first, and therafter to other stores (Neimans, Bloomingdales, the usual suspects...)
--------------------------------------
I called Saks tonight and they have this in stock!

Oh look...and there goes my debit card - magically slipping out of my wallet for a blind buy.
--------------------------------------
I just found out the Saks here in Miami (Bal Harbour) has this in stock. I just might blind buy this tomorrow - that's how excited I am about it!
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