I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

This article is a good overview of the house:
http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-c...ven-scent.html

Unfortunately the reviews directory is down, but this thread might help:
http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=200041

Thanks for that, I think i'm going to grab a sample of it (trying out samples with the whole Aedes 7 for $15 thing) The name initially put me off, as I thought it would generally smell like bad quality run of the mill synthetic potpourri

Anyone know where I can get some samples from this house? Thanks!

Potpourri is on my shopping list for the bedroom. SMN Peau d'Espagne is the holy grail among all quality leathers. But be warned, most people find it too old, too tarry and heavy. You also have to like the numbing kind of carnation as in Antaeus. I simply love that there are still perfumes completely not in tune with modern times. This smells as if it had escaped the wrath of Savonarola, and one drop only will do for the day.

Acqua di Cuba is hardcore tobacco like a fine cigar. Awesome stuff.
Check the out here:
http://www.lafcony.com/smn/

I recently received samples of AdC and Toscano. As far as I know, both are still available.

I sampled AdC last week and thought it was better than C&S Cuba and Havana.

I tried the Toscano this afternoon and it blows everything else away. One spray on the top of my hand over seven hours ago and it is still going strong! Toscano has just become a must-have fragrance for me!

I have a sample of Russa (Russian Cologne) that I have not tried yet. I have not tried Gold Musk (don't have a sample either). I will give you my thoughts on Russian Cologne whenever I get a chance to try it properly.

Now this sounds interesting, particularly as it comes from a man who carefully phrases praise and criticism alike. Please, what is Toscano about, TwoRoads?

Colonia Russa is a magic blend of bitter orange and balsamic/ambery notes.

It is both uplifting and melanchonic/nostalgic, a classic gentleman scent of old school.

I use it in the cold season as a signature scent, while in summer I tend to switch to Sicilia or Neroli, for a fresher scent, when I'm in the mood for oranges (it happens quite often to me).

The lasting power is not bad, but like many colognes not outstanding (4 - 5 hours and sometimes more).

My reaction surprised me as well!

My nose is not very sophisticated, but Toscano gave me the impression of sitting in a well-worn leather armchair at dusk smoking a cigar (Toscano, presumably) while looking out over a vanilla plantation with the fragrant smell of bourbon and vanilla pods in the air.

Sounds like Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford.

I have samples, Tobacco Vanille included, coming from the Tom Ford boutique in NYC.

At least, I think they are coming - it has only been a couple weeks since they were promised.

Thanks for that impressive image, TwoRoads! Indeed, there is an Italian brand for cigars named Toscano, and even a cigar club: Maledetto Toscano (thanks Google!) .
While at it, I also found a review published on Now Smell This. It has been written by my favorite reviewer over there: Kevin S.

Thanks for the link, narcus!

-As the only shop in Scandinavia, my local perfumery has now started to sell these fragrances . I have not tried any of them yet, but I`m very cuorious. What is worth checking out? Is it only EDC concentration? Aqua di cuba sounds intresting.

My favorites are:

Nostalgia (gasoline on a clean ambery base)
Peau DEspagne and Marescialla (two "ancient" leathers. The former being more animalic while the latter more mossy).
Melograno (tart opening evolving into a complex, and very classic, drydown)
Muschio Oro (spicy-citrusy. Does great during spring/summer)
Ottone (an amazingly rich fougere with incense)
Fieno (hay)

I'm working my way thru these as well - they opened here a month ago (pix in the Hong Kong 2011 Thread).

I have noticed with several that the opening can be confused and quite aggressive - typical of more classic compositions involving several elements that need a few minutes to tuck their shirts in and get presentable. This is a good sign, IMO, because it tends to suggest there is a story to tell - I'm getting a bit fed up with the modern 'pretty smile up front and vacuous gaze for a couple of hours after' approach to perfumery - the get 'em with the first spritz 'front loaded' stuff. People who need to be wowed at first sniff need not apply - you actually have to get on the bus for the whole ride with most of this stuff. I'm inclined to say it would be almost pointless trying to get a handle on these on paper too, as they have an artisanal rawness that needs warmth to get them off the ground.

I bought Fienno, Pot-Pourri, Tobacco Toscana & Melograno. I think some of the ones alrarom mentions are great, but as there are no samples I literally go in, apply one on each wrist, and that's it till next time, so just working my way thru them. Peau d'Espagne, Marisciella & Ottone would be my recs to try for the more full bodied classic masculine styles.

And . . . there is a sort of a 'house note' I am picking up which I like that has a sort of rustic vibe. Interesting house style. It's not 'haute parfumerie' by any means, if anything these feel outdoorsy and quite 'earthy' to me, which is a nice change from some of the 'slick' niche stuff around. They feel grounded.

Oh yes, most definitely. Thanks for pointing this out Mr.Reasonable. I collocate this "note" somewhere bewteen an earthy/outdoorsy vibe and something, let's say, pharmaceutical (not to be intended as medicinal but more like herbal).

I'll also second the Pot-Pourri suggestion. How could I have forgot about this?

I have the Cuba and it has amazing longevity and very good strength. Probabley too much, actually. It actually lasted through a washing machine !! Even though many SMN's are marked as EDC, they are very well made. I don't feel that EDC is an accurate way to descrive the strength of Cuba. If anything, it is a well radiating EDP.

A lot of guys, unfortunately just make blind judgments. They make comments that SMN Cuba and Toscano don't last long, but only because they read as edc's. Not because that particular person sampled it. I feel SMN gets the opposite treatment of other niche brands that are loved like Lutens and Creed ( not niche really, but I will play along) and Le Labo. People just don't want to believe SMN can be that good. The Lutens, Creed and other over hyped brands get ample opportunity to be loved.

Give them a shot. I highly recommend this label. Another favorite of mine is Opoponax.

Ok, thanks! I will def. check those out next time I`m down-town

Back in 2003 when I joined Basenotes SMN was a very big topic.....If I remember correctly it was one of the main Niche Houses that everyone loved.....Seems like there are so many to talk about now.....and SMN doesn't seem to be as hot as it was when I joined.....Gary

I agree. Santa Maria Novella gets too little notice nowadays. It is a line not carried by many dealers so it goes under the radar. I rediscovered it this year and have to admit I am really enjoying SMN. I also really like their approach to fragrances. There is always a little bit of the rustic aspect in their fragrances and also something unexpected. They take the road less traveled by - on most things. Also, there is a a centuries old feel to many of their fragrances. They use quite of a bit of contrasting dark notes to offset the primary theme note of any fragrances they do. For instance: the Sadolo is truly dark and medieval with a tar like opening. My favorite fragrances from Santa Maria Novella are: Patchouli (the best pure patch, imo), Maresciella (nutmeg incense), Potpourri (eucalyptus), Nostalgia (old motor oil), Hay, Acqua di Cuba, Tobacco Toscano, Peau de Espana (dark leather), Melograno (pomegranate incense). The one that is an absolute stand out to me is SMN Patchouli.

I have tried several from this house, but I don't really like them. It's funny to say, but I always get some dusty feeling from them. Almost like I can taste chalk! :-)

They sell some wicked hair lotion if you are going for the mafioso look and they have a potpourri that is quite nice.

Couldn't agree more: Quite destabilizing opening yet nonetheless enjoyable.

You're welcome.

I have a sample of Potpurri and like the drydown very much.

I'm not a giant fan of SMN's fragrances, but I love the almond soap (at about $15.00 per bar, I only use it a few times a year).