OK, although I pledged to resist any new "niche line" which spring up like mushrooms these days, I gave some of the Odori fragrances a try after I heard the head behind them was Enzo Galardi, who also created the BOIS 1920 series (which I appreciate a lot).
First of all, don't expect something too adventurous or avant-garde. The scents mainly center on a certain note or accord, but their appeal lies in their complexity which makes them much more multi-faceted than typical soliflores. In the stages of their development, they highlight different facets of each note. They all are very wearable (i.e. means office-capable), perfectly suitable for women and men and their longevity is quite good (EdT concentration).
Zafferano (saffron) is my favourite in the line. I love saffron, but in fragrances, it is often used in a very sweet and gourmandy context. Zafferano starts fresh and a bit fruity with notes of saffron, raspberry and cedar. Then, step by step, floral undertones gain presence: a hint of jasmine, lily and rose. The saffron isn't overly dominant, but present all the time. The base (amber, rosewood) is smooth, soft and warm. Saffron lovers: don't miss this.
Iris (the note of the year 2007) plays masterfully with the two different perspectives on that plant: its floral (petals) and earthy (roots) aspects. Odori's Iris starts earthy-soft, green, and a bit powdery. Anise and heliotrope give a tad of sweetness, before after a while the iris blossom climbs to the surface and adds a floral touch. In the drydown there's a whiff of amber and vanilla. In contrast to "cold" iris perfumes (e.g. Lutens' wonderful Iris Silver Mist or the raw, stemmy-green and for me almost unbearable milky Paprika Brasil) it's a cool yet sunny iris scent that shares some similarities with Chanel's No. 28 but lasts longer. A good choice for spring.
Cuoio (leather) changes deeply from the beginning to the drydown. It starts fresh and cologne-y with bergamot, orange and a hint of ylang-ylang: bracing and almost a bit generic. But then it takes an astonishing development. Vetiver and ginger take the stage, and the freshness changes to a green, deep, almost bitter dryness. In a Djedi look-alike contest, Cuoio could prevail over Vero Kern's Onda and Miller Harris' Vetiver Bourbon: the resemblence to Guerlain's all-time vetiver icon - at least in the middle of its development - is striking. The base with amber and patchouli isn't by far as interesting as the long-lasting heart. Nevertheless, Cuoio is my number two in the range.
Spigo (lavender) is very nice and well-constructed, but nothing exceptional. If you're looking for a really long-lasting lavender scent, try this. Bergamot, lemon and lavender in the top; sage, cedar and lavender absolue in the heart, and amber and vanilla in the base.
My samples of Tabacco and Gli Odori are still waiting for me and I'll review them later, if they're interesting enough.
The bottles are quite beautiful, the price isn't (150 EUR / 100 ml), but the Odoris for sure belong to this year's more mentionable launches so far.
First of all, don't expect something too adventurous or avant-garde. The scents mainly center on a certain note or accord, but their appeal lies in their complexity which makes them much more multi-faceted than typical soliflores. In the stages of their development, they highlight different facets of each note. They all are very wearable (i.e. means office-capable), perfectly suitable for women and men and their longevity is quite good (EdT concentration).
Zafferano (saffron) is my favourite in the line. I love saffron, but in fragrances, it is often used in a very sweet and gourmandy context. Zafferano starts fresh and a bit fruity with notes of saffron, raspberry and cedar. Then, step by step, floral undertones gain presence: a hint of jasmine, lily and rose. The saffron isn't overly dominant, but present all the time. The base (amber, rosewood) is smooth, soft and warm. Saffron lovers: don't miss this.
Iris (the note of the year 2007) plays masterfully with the two different perspectives on that plant: its floral (petals) and earthy (roots) aspects. Odori's Iris starts earthy-soft, green, and a bit powdery. Anise and heliotrope give a tad of sweetness, before after a while the iris blossom climbs to the surface and adds a floral touch. In the drydown there's a whiff of amber and vanilla. In contrast to "cold" iris perfumes (e.g. Lutens' wonderful Iris Silver Mist or the raw, stemmy-green and for me almost unbearable milky Paprika Brasil) it's a cool yet sunny iris scent that shares some similarities with Chanel's No. 28 but lasts longer. A good choice for spring.
Cuoio (leather) changes deeply from the beginning to the drydown. It starts fresh and cologne-y with bergamot, orange and a hint of ylang-ylang: bracing and almost a bit generic. But then it takes an astonishing development. Vetiver and ginger take the stage, and the freshness changes to a green, deep, almost bitter dryness. In a Djedi look-alike contest, Cuoio could prevail over Vero Kern's Onda and Miller Harris' Vetiver Bourbon: the resemblence to Guerlain's all-time vetiver icon - at least in the middle of its development - is striking. The base with amber and patchouli isn't by far as interesting as the long-lasting heart. Nevertheless, Cuoio is my number two in the range.
Spigo (lavender) is very nice and well-constructed, but nothing exceptional. If you're looking for a really long-lasting lavender scent, try this. Bergamot, lemon and lavender in the top; sage, cedar and lavender absolue in the heart, and amber and vanilla in the base.
My samples of Tabacco and Gli Odori are still waiting for me and I'll review them later, if they're interesting enough.
The bottles are quite beautiful, the price isn't (150 EUR / 100 ml), but the Odoris for sure belong to this year's more mentionable launches so far.
