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L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

post #1 of 24
4/17/08 at 6:04pm
Thread Starter 
Bertrand Duchaufour, probably the most adept at using incense notes and author of fragrances such as Timbuktu, Mechant Loup, Kyoto and others, has been hired by L'Artisan parfumeurs as their in-house perfumer.

Good move? Bad move?

http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scenteds...isan.html#more
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post #2 of 24
4/17/08 at 9:43pm
These are a few of his other creations. Most were done under time constraints and the houses often wanted him to use the accords he’s already famous for. He’s one of the most talented perfumers out there and will have far more freedom as an in-house perfumer. An excellent move.


Acqua di Parma Cipresso di Toscana (2005)
Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta (2003, with Jean Claude Ellena)
Amouage Jubilation XXV for Men (2007)
Comme des Garcons series 1, Leaves: Calamus & Mint (2000)
Comme des Garcons series 2, Red: Harissa & Sequoia (2001)
Comme des Garcons series 3, Incense: Avignon (2002)
Comme des Garcons series 3, Incense: Kyoto (2002)
Comme des Garcons series 5, Sherbet: Cinnamon & Peppermint (2003)
Comme des Garcons series 5, Sherbet: Rhubarb (2003)
Eau d'Italie Bois d'Ombrie (2006)
Eau d'Italie Eau d'Italie (2005)
Eau d'Italie Paestum Rose (2006)
Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver (2006)
Lalique Flora Bella (2005)
L'Artisan Aedes de Venustas (2006, home fragrance)
L'Artisan Dzongkha (2006)
L'Artisan Mechant Loup (1997)
L'Artisan Patchouli Patch (2002, with Evelyne Boulanger)
L'Artisan Timbuktu (2004)
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post #3 of 24
4/17/08 at 9:47pm
Colonia Assoluta? Must be a great nose
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post #4 of 24
4/17/08 at 9:50pm
I say good move too. Thanks Pluran for posting the list. It is a list of great ones: Kyoto, Patchouli Patch, and Timbuktu are great ones in my collection. Dzongkha might be joining them.

Great that L'Artisan picks a guy who can make a wide range of things, and be an edge-pusher as the house grows and grows.
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post #5 of 24
4/17/08 at 10:06pm
When a house acquires an in-house perfumer, what is the likelihood that another perfumer would be asked/allowed to make a new fragrance? No more Olivia Giacobetti for L'Artisan?
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post #6 of 24
4/17/08 at 10:12pm
GREAT NEWS!
I wish them all the best and sending him rays of happiness and inspiration!
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post #7 of 24
4/17/08 at 10:27pm
Very good news indeed! Dzongkha and Timbuktu are among my fave L'Artisan scents and I'm looking forward to his future fragrances.
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post #8 of 24
4/17/08 at 11:13pm
Great news! I can't wait to sample Eau de Liane, his new but unreleased creation for L'artisan as part of the travel series.
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post #9 of 24
4/17/08 at 11:21pm
Brilliant move for L'Artisan, and, I hope, for Duchaufour as well.
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post #10 of 24
4/17/08 at 11:40pm
I am totally on a wavelength with Bertrand Duchaufour. Without a doubt, he is my favorite perfumer.
This is AWESOME for L'Artisan. Perhaps more potent and longer lasting scents. YAY!
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post #11 of 24
4/18/08 at 12:22am
Holder of the famous incense torch award !
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post #12 of 24
4/18/08 at 12:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluran View Post

These are a few of his other creations. Most were done under time constraints and the houses often wanted him to use the accords hes already famous for. Hes one of the most talented perfumers out there and will have far more freedom as an in-house perfumer. An excellent move.

Totally agreed!!!
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post #13 of 24
4/18/08 at 5:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisW View Post

When a house acquires an in-house perfumer, what is the likelihood that another perfumer would be asked/allowed to make a new fragrance? No more Olivia Giacobetti for L'Artisan?

I have been wondering about this too, not only Olivia Giacobetti but also Anne Flipo.
L'Artisan for me is very much light and bright floral scents, so hiring Bertrand Duchaufour was a surprising move from L'Artisan, though Duchaufour has worked many times for L'Artisan in the past. L'Artisan has shown its desire to develop towards new directions, that much is clear, and I hope this collaboration will turn out to be fruitful, Duchaufour is after all very talented.
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post #14 of 24
4/18/08 at 7:44am
A great move by L'Artisan. Might be a litttle limiting for Bertrand. He is creator of many of my favorites. A new one that was just released that he created for Miller Harris is called En Sens de Bois and is masterful. It stands up there with Jubilation XXV, Avignon, Kyoto, Timbuktu for quality of incense.

Bravo for L'Artisan.
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post #15 of 24
4/18/08 at 11:32am
He's extremely talented and creative. I'll look forward to having a sniff of any of his creations. I just hope he doesn't do what Jean Claude Ellena did when he became Herme's in-house perfumer. Mr. Ellena hasn't done anything worth buying since he chose to be Herme's in-house perfumer.
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post #16 of 24
4/18/08 at 12:20pm
What does an in-house perfumer do as a job description? Don't the big 6 fragrance/flavorings companies do the creation of the scents to the budget and aesthetic goals of their clients?
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post #17 of 24
4/18/08 at 12:24pm
His resume speaks for him. It was obviously a good choice.

.
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post #18 of 24
4/18/08 at 3:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DustB View Post

Great that L'Artisan picks a guy who can make a wide range of things, and be an edge-pusher as the house grows and grows.


Do Parfumeurs (I hope I'm using the correct term) as talented as this get picked up by a House such as L'Artisan or do the Parfumeurs decide with whom they want to go? Or is it a mutual agreement? Who solicits whom? I would think that in some cases the House would have the upper hand and in others the Parfumeur. What's the case here? I'm not really sure how it all works.
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post #19 of 24
4/18/08 at 6:34pm
Looks like a good move to me.
Gary
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post #20 of 24
4/18/08 at 7:18pm
I feel somewhat bittersweet about this news.
I think it was a wise decision (i admire BD very much) for L'Artisan, but at the same, i am really going to miss Olivia Giacobetti's contributions to the house.
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post #21 of 24
4/18/08 at 7:23pm
Good decision. Lets see what comes out of the arrangement.
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post #22 of 24
4/18/08 at 7:25pm
It is not just a coincidence that Dachaufour did some of the best scents in the Comme des Garcons line (just look at that list that pluran posted - wow!). I say, good move, indeed.

Good for me to, because my Neiman Marcus has an in-house L'Artisan booth with all of the scents making it extremely easy for me to get ahold of these scents, sample and learn about.
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post #23 of 24
4/19/08 at 6:40am
I'm really bummed if it means no more Olivia Giacobetti for L'Artisan. I've sampled most of their line and the three I own (and love very much) are Dzing!, Passage d'Enfer, and Fou d'Absinthe, which I think are all by Olivia G. Does anyone know if this news threatens the continued production of these three? I'm especially concerned about Passage d'Enfer, since incense is his specialty. i'd be really interested to hear from anyone out there who knows how these kinds of things generally play out. Is it back-up bottle time or would that be a silly over-reaction?
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post #24 of 24
4/19/08 at 6:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

[...] my Neiman Marcus has an in-house L'Artisan booth with all of the scents [...]

Colour me jealous!

The best gamne in town locally is Macy's and Sephora. I'd *kill* for a local Barney's and/or Neimann!
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