Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens - a mini review

I gave Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens a second full wearing today, from a sample (thanks leopoldo) and I feel as if I have taken a giant leap forward into understanding, appreciating and encompassing the iris note in all of it's facets.

Yes, the top notes are rooty-tooty (beet root?) and carrots (see the Carrot Silver Mist thread here). A little dirt, but definitely cold dirt. The iris note interwoven at this point does have that classic 'lipstick' smell that only I get from iris, however (maybe I'm used to it already, maybe this scent is different?) it isn't quite as powdery as other iris scents (Dior Homme, Hiris, Prada Infusion d'Iris). I find the dirt provides just the right backdrop to the iris scent. It's incredibly hard to describe in words, because it smells nothing like other scents that smell like dirt (Route du Vetiver, Dark Earth, Dirt by Demeter) - no other scent captures the smell of cold dirt like ISM.

The middle and base notes allow the scent to really fill out and deepen to a resolutely iris absolute accord. It not only smells more like iris, the smell is more wide-angle (iris HD!) - I swear I got the visual image today of how clouds might smell in the sky. Not ozonic. Just airy, ethereal... I hope I'm not coming across as too artistic and fluffy in my descriptions, but this scent really does evoke a feeling of serenity and meditation in me. Long stretches of time today, I thoroughly enjoyed moving around my office in articulated silences - in awe of this scent swirling all around me. It also manages to avoid being sweet on my skin, although many reviews I've read about ISM mention it as a gourmand. Strange.

Longevity is excellent, sillage is above average - fans of Dior Homme should love this, since I think it smells entirely unisex.

I must say that personally, I prefer a much greener iris note (Le Labo Iris 39) - but today's encounter with ISM has left me with a firmly rooted respect for this scent. Serge Lutens has done it again.

Well here's the thing - my boss (who's French) just went to France to celebrate his birthday for 3 weeks. I know that if I ask him, he'll most likely bring me back something like this if I ask him to, and pay him for it when he returns. I've never bought a bell jar of any Serge fragrance - if I do, this would be my first.

I'm mostly hedging because of cash flow and also since I really do love the green aspect of Iris 39 a little more (in my head).

I think for now, I need to retest both side by side (I'm sure I can decants from TPC) and then make my final decision then.



Wow - sofresh. I can relate.

All night tonight, I keep getting whiffs of it, and yet I know that it is no longer on me (i've been to the gym, I've showered and applied an entirely different fragrance)...but yet, there it is in my consciousness. This happens ever so often with certain fragrances (it happened the first time I smelled Ambre Sultan). I'm sure it's my mind...but it's nice to know that I'm not the only one who experiences this.

When I first got to Basenotes, I hadn't even smelled iris - I had no idea what it smelled like.

Of course, that all changed when I experienced Dior Homme - and really, I would highly recommend that you try DH first. Once your nose has become used to that aforementioned 'makeup' or 'lipstick' note that iris gives off, then I think you'll be ready for something as brash and intense as Iris Silver Mist.

UPDATE: I now own a bottle of this magical stuff! My first bell jar. It's so cute!

Everyone who likes iris notes in fragrances owes it to themselves to try this scent.

Iris Xanadu.

Thanks snafoo.

I think I smelled Bois d'Iris once - but that was in my iris hatin days, so I guess I need to re-smell it again. Plus when I tested it I dabbed it on from a vial rather than spraying it from a bottle and I know that with JC Ellena scents, I need to SPRAY IT ON. I'm thinking ISM is slightly more evanescent or 'silvery' than the damp woody of BdI. But I'm just guessing.

I currently have Orris Noir by Ormande Jayne, Iris Noir by Yves Rocher and Terre d'Iris by Miller Harris - in my 'to sample' pile. So let's see how these stack up against the ISM.

Thanks guys.

Yeah, sofresh, my Ambre Sultan bottle is a little jealous now that there's a new bell jar in town!


So I was right - cool. I thought Bois d'Iris was 'damp'. I want to resmell it then. Damp wood? Sounds lovely, like Route du Vetiver by MPG, which I own and love. Would you agree?

I did not like Iris Poudre - it was a huge colossal powder puff of an iris fragrance. Ech.

I was reading The Guide last night and I noticed what you said about Turin's big-thums-up on ISM. I also noticed he puts it only in a class with 28 La Pausa by Chanel. Which I know nothing about, since not many of us guys talk about it (or wear it) due to it's price point, exclusivity, etc. From what I can see by going thru the BN archives, the guys who love 28LP love it for it's very natural take on iris, which on the other hand gives it much less longevity than the ISM. Regardless, next time I see a Chanel boutique, I'm def going in there and dousing my arm with 28LP. Or atleast No. 19. Still - those Chanel razor-sharp aldehydes usually scare me off.


LOL.

When I got the bell jar opened up, I of course needed to show it off to Ray. He loved it and wanted to immediately smell it on me. As soon as I handed him my arm to smell, he looked at me and said, 'What is that smell....I know what that is...what is it?' I instantly replied, 'Carrots?' His eyes lit up. 'Carrot juice! Fresh, squeezed carrot juice. Exactly!' We both laughed. Of course, like you say, that sharp, dirty, root vibe calms down after a bit - and then it gets all mist-y. Thus the name.

Glad you got to find that emotional/mystical side of ISM by giving it a second chance N.

Great!

It is everything that Dior Homme wants to be - just better. Less sweet, no leather, crisper/starchier (and stronger) iris. I'm thinking you're gonna like it.

LOL.

Well, as I said above in my review, if it wasn't for DH I would never have fallen in love with ISM. For what DH is: a designer, department store, mid-priced mens fragrace with prominent iris top notes - it is pretty fantastic. Sure beats Infusion d'Homme and Power by Kenzo in my opinion in the 'iris' category.

I specifically mentioned DH to Ruggles because I know he had a falling out with that scent and I wanted to give a 'sweeping generalization' of the differences.

Now I really want to try it. Not too aldehyde prominent to your nose?

There's unconfirmed rumours that Chanel will release some of the Exclusifs in parfum concentration. If so, it sounds like 28LP would be a good candidate. But then it would be even more expensive! Jeez...

To my nose (or shall I say, on my skin) ISM is so un-sweet. I can understand that chewy sensation you describe, but it is not 'edible' to my nose. I prefer it that way. Sweet iris just makes me think of Dior Homme which is OK, but not as satisfying to me as ISM.

Iris Taizo sounds good.

I have always thought this.

I mentioned on another thread (about Infusion d'Homme) that the conditioner my gym stocks in the locker room showers smells prominently of iris also. Once my nose became 'aware' of iris - it was unmistakeable the first time I took a shower and smelled that conditioner.

It used to be 110 Euros. But I think it increased..?

Perhaps my lipstick threshold has been raised? Seriously, I think I have to come to appreciate the raw, vegetal character of the iris absolute accord - even though it encompasses the lipstick note. Funny how your nose can adapt to certain notes, after some time.

I39 sour huh? Pity, it's such a wonderful, civet-heavy 'alive' iris scent on my skin.