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The Definitive Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermes Thread

post #1 of 25
4/30/08 at 9:07pm
Thread Starter 
Me and Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermes go way back.

I used to collect catalogs when I was a kid. Yes, mail order catalogs. I had thousands! It was a weird hobby. When you request catalogs from companies, I inevitably started getting even more catalogs from companies that think you're a 'catalog shopper' and my collection of catalogs grew. Well, during this time, I got a catalog from a toiletry / grooming company (I can't remember the name now) and I remember buying a men's sampler pack where I first smelled No. 88 by Czech & Speake, a few of the classic Hermes (I think it was Equipage?) and Eau d'Orange Verte also. Growing up in Miami, the EdoV wore extremely well. Crisp, clean, just strong enough to create that uplifting feeling upon application yet light enough to splash all over (even on my face) when I applied.

When I arrived here at Basenotes, it seemed natural that everyone liked the scent. I ordered a small bottle of the Concentree Eau d'Orange Verte - a 'stronger' version of EdOV that (I learned) smelled similar, yet different. I soon found out that there even more formulations, which made it confusing to know which one was the 'best.' Another thing that confused me: I always thought EdoV has 'orange' in it, since the name has 'orange' in it. Perhaps a Basenoter who is experienced in the French translation can help explain this better than me, but I believe it is a description of the citrus (lime) not a literal use of the word 'orange'. Confusing, right?

There's a ton of threads all over the mens board about the differences in the EdoV line, so I thought it was time to create one thread devoted to the ENTIRE LINE, with pictures, descriptions, comments, etc. So here it goes:

- The original that started it all, Eau d'Orange Verte (pic here) this is an Eau de Cologne formula, introduced in 1979 and created by perfumer Francoise Caron (who also did Rose and Palisander by CdG). It was originally released as Eau de Cologne d'Hermes and then later changed to Eau d'Orange Verte. It has notes of bergamot, lemon, mandarin, mint, jasmine, orange blossom, patchouli, moss and cedar. I have never owned a bottle of this, only a sample when I was young. It has quite a tanginess to it, that the Concentree misses - in addition the opening top notes of EdoV are zingy, fresh. Hermes markets it as a unisex scent and it's only drawback is its incredibly low longevity. As with most quality citrus fragrances, this lasts about 15 minutes, before it altogether disappears. If you're a fan of 'cologne' type splash fragrances, you'll love this. Bottles (correct me if I'm wrong here guys) are 3.3 oz, 6.5 oz and 13.5 oz as well as refreshing moist towelettes (box of 12) and a ton of bath/after bath products.

- The second most popular variation of the scent is Concentree d'Orange Verte (pic here) this is an Eau de Toilette formula, introduced in 2004 and created by perfumer Jean Guichard (who also did Obsession by Calvin Klein) - this is for those (like me) who must have something longer lasting. To achieve this, though, the scent suffers in the top notes by featuring less of those aforementioned zingy top notes and transitioning much more quickly into the wood base. The citrus is softer and more...diluted (which is not what one expects from something named Concentree, right?). Bottles are 3.3 and 6.5 oz...and a new size I just saw for the first time: a set of three 1 oz spray bottles (perfect for travel on airline carry on bags!). The difference between the Concentree bottle and the EdOV is not easy to detect. Notice in both pictures, that the Concentree version has a darker green glass, that is not entirely transparent but it more frosted glass.

- Aroma d'Orange Verte (pic here) - I have no information about this. It's described by Hermes as 'Icy Energizing Spray' and if I am most interested to see if the scent of this is the same as the EdOV, perhaps with just a 'cooling' effect. I have been eyeing this as a blind buy for quite a while, so anyone's experience with this would be helpful. Bottle is 3.3 oz spray only.

- Eau d'Orange Douce (pic here) - same thing for this one, no info. Bottle is 3.3 oz natural spray.

One more thing: Both the EdoV and the Concentree d'Orange Verte are also sold in cylindrical glass 2.5 oz spray bottles (pic here), that fit into a Hermes leather case (pic here)
- for those discriminating travelers. Honestly, I have no use for these high end leather fragrance cases, but the fact that you can buy both fragrances in a 2.5 oz refill bottle is noteworthy.

So, did I leave any 'version' out of this list? If so, please reply to this thread and I'll include it on my list.

Turin gave (in The Guide) both EdOV and CdOV four stars, wherein he said, 'Hermes essay in bracing simplicity is a daily treat.' Your comments, about the whole line, are welcomed!
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post #2 of 25
4/30/08 at 10:49pm
While much is made of the poor longevity of the citrus, I think that most are missing out on the superb if subtle oakmoss drydown of the EdoV, which I find lingers for hours. And in truth, do any of us really wish to smell like a bitter orange ALL DAY? While I found it inferior to Bigarade Concentree on first comparision, I think that the fleeting experience of citrus may in fact be superior, in practice, to a prolonged one.
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post #3 of 25
4/30/08 at 11:29pm
One other thing that distinguishes Concentré d'Orange Verte from Ed'OV is that it features peppermint. To me, that makes all the difference. It's the main reason I prefer it. Peppermint is pretty intensely green, I think.

I agree that the Concentré greatly improves the longevity. Carlos has a good point about the oakmoss drydown in Ed'OV, though. That makes it a contender, in spite of the fugitive nature it shares with most hesperidic scents. It seems a lot of noses find that some prominent green notes help to relieve that problem (if it is a problem).
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post #4 of 25
4/30/08 at 11:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos View Post

While I found it inferior to Bigarade Concentree on first comparision, I think that the fleeting experience of citrus may in fact be superior, in practice, to a prolonged one.

To me, Bigarade Concentree is a horse of a different color, instead of doing a simple clean cologne, it does a beautiful contrast of clean (orange) against dirty (cumin). In many ways, BC shares much more in common with Eau Sauvage and its juxtaposition of lemon and civet, than in does with EdOV.

I definitely do agree that the dry down of EdOV is stunning and does last. I think on this subject I am extremely biased, however, as this particular Hermes has and probably always will be my first love. As perhaps my first real cologne, EdOV ushered in for me a luxuriousness about fragrance, the pampering touch of a splash, and of course, the fleeting nature of true EdC. While much is made about longevity, colognes are meant to be used in quantity and repeatedly. On a hot day, nothing is quite so nice as a fresh burst of cologne whenever one feels like it, not just in the morning.

Like Mike, I have been extremely curious about the updates and brothers (or sisters if you will) of this wonderful fragrance - Aroma and Douce. I doubt that they could be bad ... although I do still prefer the softness and lightness of the original to the stamina and increased brutality of the Concentree.
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post #5 of 25
5/1/08 at 12:04am
I recently ordered (and received) the cologne version of Ed'OV. I had been wondering about whether I should order the cologne vs the concentree. Dimitri was a big help in deciding (we had exchanged a few samples living in neighboring scandinavian countries - and I got some of his Ed'OV). I hope he won't mind that I quote him in part of a PM about Ed'OV:

""The Ed'OV is indeed a fantastic scent! It was a scent I wore at uni (some 15 years ago now) that many people recognized as being "me"... and I've never been without it since Its only the staying power that is disappointing. I do stick to the EDC version though, as the EDT and Concentrée versions don't seem to preserve the purity of the EDC.""

I wasn't aware of any oakmoss in the drydown. That is significant!
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post #6 of 25
5/1/08 at 1:37am
Nice thread. I remember having a sample of the original Ed'OV a few years back and to me, it just smelled like Lemon Pledge. I'll have to revisit it. I remember a nice SA from SAKS gave me some samples of the bath products from the "Aroma..." line, including, I think, a sample of the Aroma EDT (or spray or whatever it is). It was actually really nice and I liked it better than the original Ed'OV. I can't recall a lot about it specifically, but the Aroma bath gel had a nice pithy/pulpy marmalade quality that I enjoyed. I've been thinking about getting a bottle of the Energizing Spray myself.

I have a bottle of Concentré and I enjoy it often. Whereas the original was more "juicy", the Concentré seems more "chewy", like orange bubble gum.

I love this line.
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post #7 of 25
5/1/08 at 1:50am
Thanks mike for this interesting thread, and no probs Scentsual for quoting my PM.

I adore this scent, and many of the products related to it.
As mentioned above, I was introduced to EdOV in my first year at university (1991) when my mum worked for a big fragrance house. I recall she came home with bottles and bottles of freebies that were awarded to her upon completion of her week-long training course. Amongst 12 or 15 bottles of Versace, Boss and Biagiotti fragrances, I came to adopt the OdOV EDC. I wore it for the better part of a year and have never been without it since.

The body line was named "Aroma d'Orange Verte" some years ago, and comprised (amongst many things), an amazing soothing massage oil, a calming body emulsion, a zestful exfoliating gel, and wake-me-up shower gel. All products which I purchased and enjoyed with my wife.
Nowadays however, the body line bears the original name (EdOV), and we have come to use the Shower Gel, Hand Wash and moist towelettes in our everyday life.
The EdOV bath-bombs would make an attractive addition to our commonly-used products... if we a bathtub that is.

My love affair with the EDC and body range is already 17 years young, and not about to end yet!
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post #8 of 25
5/1/08 at 2:07am
Eau d'orange Verte is very long lasting, as it easily lasts two to three times longer than 4711 on my skin.
Renato
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post #9 of 25
5/1/08 at 8:39am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post

Thanks mike for this interesting thread...
_______________________________

The body line was named "Aroma d'Orange Verte" some years ago, and comprised (amongst many things), an amazing soothing massage oil, a calming body emulsion, a zestful exfoliating gel, and wake-me-up shower gel. All products which I purchased and enjoyed with my wife.
Nowadays however, the body line bears the original name (EdOV), and we have come to use the Shower Gel, Hand Wash and moist towelettes in our everyday life.

You're welcome Dmitri.

The bath/body line is the most confusing part of the line..!? From what I've figure out (from the Hermes official site as well as a few online retailers inventory), the bath shower gel, still has on the box (and on the tube) 'Aroma d'Orange Verte' and the color is orange (plastic) as opposed to the soap, hand soap, towelettes and all over body shampoo which have on the box and products, 'Eau d'Orange Verte' and are green in color and packaging.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Indie_Guy View Post

Nice thread. I remember having a sample of the original Ed'OV a few years back and to me, it just smelled like Lemon Pledge.

_______________________________

I can't recall a lot about it specifically, but the Aroma bath gel had a nice pithy/pulpy marmalade quality that I enjoyed. I've been thinking about getting a bottle of the Energizing Spray myself.

Luckily, I never got the 'Lemon Pledge' association with EdOV - ever so often, a new citrus I try does smell like that (the new L'Occitane one, for instance) and it can be extremely hard to shake the associations of cleansers from the smell. I myself get Joy Dishwashing Liquid associations all of the time!

And yes, that Aroma d'Orange Verte bath gel you mentioned is called Marmelade d'Oranges Exfoliating Wake-Up Shower Gel and here is a picture. But then, confusing things, they also stock an after-bath gel (non soapy - more of a lotion, in the form of a gel) named Orange Givrée Freshness Wake-Up Gel and here is a picture, where it looks EXACTLY like the shower gel.
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post #10 of 25
5/1/08 at 9:10am
Mike, this IS confusing... these are the exact products to which I was referring in my first post...

Here is a link to the Aroma d'Orange Verte body line on Google shopping.

And here is the packaging for the body line now.

My guess is that the AdOV body line was originally created to accompany the original EdOV cologne line. Until the release of the AdOV body line, the only body products offered with EdOV, were a soap (here) and a stick deodorant which both bore the "old logo".
In fact, take a look at this example where the two were paired together.
About 5 or 6 years ago I distinctly recall being given an authentic gatefold sample pack of the AdOV body line, which contained sachet samples of the energising body wash and calming massage oil etc, but the 1.2ml COLOGNE sample included in that pack was EdOV (EDC)... NOT AdOV Icy Energising Spray, which you can see here.

So lets retrace. EdOV underwent a repackaging in recent years. The old was this, and the new, this.

Therefore, Id assume the AdOV Icy Energising Spray was produced in limited quantities to accompany the range as a spin-off.
Meanwhile, a new, fuller EdOV body line was being created and re-packaged, which will account for all the body shampoos, handwashes etc that we see everywhere today in the plain orange packages such as the one in second link at the top of this message.

What say you?
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post #11 of 25
5/4/08 at 4:15pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post

Mike, this IS confusing... these are the exact products to which I was referring in my first post...

Here is a link to the Aroma d'Orange Verte body line on Google shopping.

And here is the packaging for the body line now.

My guess is that the AdOV body line was originally created to accompany the original EdOV cologne line. Until the release of the AdOV body line, the only body products offered with EdOV, were a soap (here) and a stick deodorant which both bore the "old logo".
In fact, take a look at this example where the two were paired together.
About 5 or 6 years ago I distinctly recall being given an authentic gatefold sample pack of the AdOV body line, which contained sachet samples of the energising body wash and calming massage oil etc, but the 1.2ml COLOGNE sample included in that pack was EdOV (EDC)... NOT AdOV Icy Energising Spray, which you can see here.

So lets retrace. EdOV underwent a repackaging in recent years. The old was this, and the new, this.

Therefore, Id assume the AdOV Icy Energising Spray was produced in limited quantities to accompany the range as a spin-off.
Meanwhile, a new, fuller EdOV body line was being created and re-packaged, which will account for all the body shampoos, handwashes etc that we see everywhere today in the plain orange packages such as the one in second link at the top of this message.

What say you?

Well Dimitri, I read your post 3 times, and I can't seem to understand what you're saying because some of the picture links you posted above are not working. Can you fix them, or perhaps re-post a clarification?
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post #12 of 25
5/5/08 at 12:16am
All the picture links seem to be working for me? But let me try to rephrase... chronologically as I suspect it...

1. The Old EdOv EDC packaging featured the green and white chariot Hermes logo on the box. The original body line of EdoV comprised the soap and deodorant in the same traditional packaging style.

2. Created to accompany the EdOV EDC came the AdOV body products (packaged in the "fruity" orange or green packaging).

3. AdOV Icy Energising Spray was launched as a spin-off from the AdOV line.

4. EdOV EDC is repackaged, showing the words Eau d'Orange Verte in white on a pure orange box.

5. The EdOV body line is extended, and also presented in the new packaging style.
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post #13 of 25
5/5/08 at 2:48pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post

All the picture links seem to be working for me? But let me try to rephrase... chronologically as I suspect it...

1. The Old EdOv EDC packaging featured the green and white chariot Hermes logo on the box. The original body line of EdoV comprised the soap and deodorant in the same traditional packaging style.

2. Created to accompany the EdOV EDC came the AdOV body products (packaged in the "fruity" orange or green packaging).

3. AdOV Icy Energising Spray was launched as a spin-off from the AdOV line.

4. EdOV EDC is repackaged, showing the words Eau d'Orange Verte in white on a pure orange box.

5. The EdOV body line is extended, and also presented in the new packaging style.

Yes - I didn't realize what you mentioned in 4 and 5, but now looking at the packaging you're correct.

One more thing - I just noticed that Osmoz.com gives a lot more information about the Eau d'Orange Douce:

A joyful caress of an eau, in a mint julep hued bottle, Eau dOrange Douce is like a summer glass of orangeade. The fragrance echoes the pyramid of Hermèss classic Eau dOrange Verte, wrapping it in more gentleness and less bite. A fresh, playful, seasonal recipe in which citrus zest meets linden leaves and blossoms. A fleeting pleasure for men and women to share.

Top notes: Petitgrain, Neroli, Green Notes
Heart notes: Orange, Tangerine, Linden Leaves, Linden Blossom
Base notes: Virginia Cedar, Patchouli, Sandalwood

Youll recognize the shape of the Eau dOrange Verte bottle. But the tones have changed to a fresh and transparent mint julep hue.

It mentions that it was released in 2005 - which leads me to believe that Jean Claude Ellena was the one responsible for creating the scent for Hermes (since he was in house perfumer then).

I would love to hear from someone who's smelled this version.
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post #14 of 25
5/7/08 at 1:24am
Today I got my original Eau D'Orange Verte EDC. Stellar stuff-- for the ten minutes it lasts. I'm usually more optimistic and generous than others when discussion a fragrance's longevity, but this is true. I understand that the products in the line are meant to be layered, but I don't like to layer fragrance products-- it makes me feel like I'm walking around in a suit made of cologne.

I think I've found the solution though. Two sprays of Concentré D'Orange Verte under the shirt for lasting power, and then as many sprays of Eau D'Orange verte EDC to the arms/neck as one feels like. This way, you get the beautiful ephemeral "pick me up" of EDOV EDC, and then after it fades, you've got the Concentré continuing on for the rest of the day, quietly doing the heavy lifting.

Like others have said, almost drinkable.
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post #15 of 25
8/9/08 at 7:50pm
Thread Starter 
So, I finally saw a bottle of Eau D'Orange Verte Douce today, at the Hermes boutique in Bal Harbour. I thought I might never see an actual bottle of the stuff, even though it's on the Hermes website - but there it was!

I tested it on a card and it didn't smell very different, but this is one I'm gonna need to test on skin to really see the subtle differences between this and the Eau D'Orange Verte and Concentree D'Orange Verte. I have a sneaking suspicion also that Jean Claude Ellena did this one. More than likely I'm going to contact Hermes store in New York (who I've called before and they're extremely helpful and cooperative) to find out if my hunch is correct.

The bottle looks JUST LIKE the Eau D'Orange Verte...it's not even a shade different. The only way to see the difference is on the label. Same glass, same glass color, same cap, same color juice and same font on bottle. Confusing...
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post #16 of 25
8/10/08 at 1:33am
I like how much EdOV talk there's been lately.... BTW I have the Aroma 'Icy Energizing Spray' and it's just EdOV (original) in a different bottle.

Since this is the comprehensive EdOV thread, I would be remiss in not mentioning that there's an eBay seller who does nothing but sell EdOV. I picked up 5x30ml plastic travel bottles for $20 (though I noticed the price recently went up to $27, but this is a great deal for 5oz of the stuff).

This thread prompted me to actually look at Hermes' website.... the bath products line is quite extensive, and very expensive! I also looked at the TdH stuff.... really didn't even know there was shower gel, shaving cream, spray deo, etc. for TdH. Hermes must be limiting distribution. Hermes seems to have the greatest disparity between boutique/website cost and discount online retailer cost. The difference is astronomical. I love EdOV but wouldn't pay what they want on the website (same for TdH, which is $70/50ml).
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post #17 of 25
8/10/08 at 3:30am
Whose this ebay seller? I'm looking to pick some of this stuff up. I should of bought it yesterday when i had the chance
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post #18 of 25
8/10/08 at 7:12am
Great work Mike.

I can only add this question to this thread: Does Air France still offer dOV satchets to its first class passengers ?
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post #19 of 25
8/10/08 at 9:15am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbBD View Post

I like how much EdOV talk there's been lately.... BTW I have the Aroma 'Icy Energizing Spray' and it's just EdOV (original) in a different bottle.

Since this is the comprehensive EdOV thread, I would be remiss in not mentioning that there's an eBay seller who does nothing but sell EdOV. I picked up 5x30ml plastic travel bottles for $20 (though I noticed the price recently went up to $27, but this is a great deal for 5oz of the stuff).

This thread prompted me to actually look at Hermes' website.... the bath products line is quite extensive, and very expensive! I also looked at the TdH stuff.... really didn't even know there was shower gel, shaving cream, spray deo, etc. for TdH. Hermes must be limiting distribution. Hermes seems to have the greatest disparity between boutique/website cost and discount online retailer cost. The difference is astronomical. I love EdOV but wouldn't pay what they want on the website (same for TdH, which is $70/50ml).

So, you have Aroma Icy Energizing Spray, huh? You don't notice any differences in the scents? Really?

Yes, I noticed the same thing yesterday - Terre de Hermes deodorant sounds like something I might want to pick up, if I can find it at a discounted price.
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post #20 of 25
2/15/10 at 1:11pm
Has anyone smelled the original 1979 formula?
I have seen the older formula, called simply "Eau De Cologne"(not EDOV), and it is listed as containing Sandalwood and Honeysuckle, which is not listed in the 1997 version, or the new 2009 formula, which includes black currant bud and Buchu.

I assume the original had more oakmoss, but are the sandalwood and honeysuckle noticeable?

I think our directory needs updating, because these three formulas 1979, 1997, and 2009, are clearly not identical.
As I have smelled the 2009 and it is greener and longer lasting than the 1997 version. It is now part of the "les colognes" collection and packaged accordingly.

I am very interested in the 1979 version.
Any comments or questions ?
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post #21 of 25
2/15/10 at 2:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DULLAH View Post

Has anyone smelled the original 1979 formula?
I have seen the older formula, called simply "Eau De Cologne"(not EDOV), and it is listed as containing Sandalwood and Honeysuckle, which is not listed in the 1997 version, or the new 2009 formula, which includes black currant bud and Buchu.

I assume the original had more oakmoss, but are the sandalwood and honeysuckle noticeable?

I think our directory needs updating, because these three formulas 1979, 1997, and 2009, are clearly not identical.
As I have smelled the 2009 and it is greener and longer lasting than the 1997 version. It is now part of the "les colognes" collection and packaged accordingly.

I am very interested in the 1979 version.
Any comments or questions ?

I had lost site of the other thread where you raised this question. Sorry bout that. Once I get rid of this sinusitis I'll carefully compare my vintage (Hermes Eau de Cologne) and the 1997 version.
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post #22 of 25
2/15/10 at 2:07pm
Thread Starter 
I would kill to smell the '79 version.
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post #23 of 25
2/15/10 at 2:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Turin gave (in The Guide) both EdOV and CdOV four stars, wherein he said, 'Hermes essay in bracing simplicity is a daily treat.' Your comments, about the whole line, are welcomed!

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Givaudan (sorry, German)

It seems that Givaudan is the creator behind the scent. They managed to resemble grapefruit with a greater longivety than the original:

http://www.givaudan.com/givcom/v/ind...001053410aRCRD

Whether or not especially this base has been used. The "essay" that has been mentioned by Turin is not of Hermes but of Givaudan. Comments on fragrance should be read with a grain of reason. To big the enthusiasm with olfactory sensations sometimes.

For me this "Eau" isn't to special in its pungent attitude. Very chemical, not unpleasant by clearly so. I enjoy e/g Borsari Acqua Classica more. The citrus is rounded with pine - it relies on two refreshing ingredients with different longevity. A more complete concept while its olfactory signature remains quiet. Exactly what I expect a Cologne to be. The Eau Orange & Verte from Givaudan is a bit of a squaller compared to that. Applied liberally it is first radiating, strong but fades with an exponential rate, what is fast ...
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post #24 of 25
2/15/10 at 2:34pm
I wore the original in the late 70s and remember it not having much longevity back then, an hour or so, tops. A green/orange citrus blend with some herbs, essentially a classic eau de cologne. I always thought the original was where Ellena took his cue from for the Hermessence collection as so many of them are just as fleeting.
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post #25 of 25
2/19/10 at 10:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

I would kill to smell the '79 version.

I have a job for you.
It invloves a man by the name of Henn-ree Quiss-inge-her. your payment shall be 9 ounces of the 1979 eau de cologne hermes. PM for further briefings.
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