Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Male Fragrance Discussion › MFD Archive › New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
Your favorite incense or minimalist fragrances?

Do we have a new category of perfume developed since the turn of the century? This new category defies the labels we now have for fragrance, in my opinion. They are not oriental, but sort of, and they are not wood, but are made of woods. Some call them incense, but many don't really smell of traditional incense at all. They are described as minimal, transparent. natural and very subtle. These minimalist frags include the wearer as part of the experience because they become a part of your aura more so than traditional fragrances which seem to be apart from the wearer. Their subtlety often causes muddled reviews because people almost don't know how to tune in their senses to pick up all the subtle nuances.

In Perfumes, The Guide Luca Turin states, "One day, time permitting and dramatis personae willing, I will trace back to its origins the startlingly novel and beautiful style of perfumery exemplified by Mark(c) Buxton's CdG2W and Bertrand Duchaufour's Timbuktu." Turin goes on to say that apparently Buxton began this style first with Anthracite Homme in '91 four years prior to Duchaufour's first "incense" but the two worked together during the 90's where they solidified this new style. Turin also gives CdG props with "all credit to Comme des Garcons for giving this deceptively minimalist style a space in which to take root and flourish . . .".

Buxton and Duchaufour created many greats in this style for Comme des Garcons, L' Artisan, and many other houses as well. Other noses have joined this trend too and many houses now try to add to the "incense" category with their own versions.

This category is what got me intrerested Basenotes in the first place when I discovered CdG Kyoto and Avignon. What are your favorites in this incense/minimalist/transparent/woody style?
post #2 of 19
Lalique's Encre Noire comes to mind... so does cK's Be. Both are pretty minimalist.. You don't wear them.. They wear YOU
post #3 of 19
And, let us not forget the new Incense Extreme by Andy Tauer. This is truly a minimalist creation with, I think, 7 ingredients. It is fantastic.

Buzzlepuff, thanks for the wonderful post. It is very insightful and has given me lots to think about. Brilliant.
post #4 of 19
Paprika Brasil by Hermes
Palisander (Series 2: Red) and Sequoia (Series 2: Red) by Comme des Garcons
mb03 by biehl parfumkunstwerke
Rousse by Serge Lutens
Bois Farine by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermes
post #5 of 19
Tumulte is entirely cedar and incense on me. Nothing else. No sweeteners, no sparklies, just cedar and incense. It is entirely cedar at first, then the delightful incense joins the party about 20 minutes later and that is all you get. Luckily, I love it, but if I didn't, I would be sitting in the same olfactory discomfort for a long time.
post #6 of 19
Thread Starter 
Some great ideas.

Also really impressive in this style is Amouge Jubilation XXV - a multi faceted mystery, but kind of expensive. It has woods, oud, spices, and incense mixed with florals to lighten it up a little - rose, I think.
post #7 of 19
French Lover by Frederic Malle & first hour with Le Labo Vetiver 46
post #8 of 19
Douce Amere - if I didn't know, I would swear it was JCE or Duchaufour (or even Giacobetti) not Sheldrake who did this one. I think it's actually quite complex, but transparent it is.
post #9 of 19
Perhaps I'm mistaken, but the new Davidoff Adventure would fit well in this category. I'm curious if somebody else does see it, too?
post #10 of 19
Ouarzazate
Hinoki
Incense Extreme
Kyoto
post #11 of 19
I think Hindu Grass and Absinthe by Nasomatto can be added to this list.
post #12 of 19
Molecule 01 and Marc Birley perhaps. They are not my favorite, but perhaps we are missing those.
However, I do not need the need of creating a new category for these perfumes
post #13 of 19
Probably not many would agree with this, but I'd say Hypnose Homme falls into this category... if one doesn't exercise the urge to bathe in it.

Worn lightly, it seems to be so ethereal- subtle hints of lavender and mint appear interspersed with patchouli and musk that blend well into the skin. The problem is, even applied heavily, the scent is still great (to my nose), and many people don't realize that just less is truly more with this one.
post #14 of 19
[QUOTE=whosyourcaddy05;1216806]Tumulte is entirely cedar and incense on me. QUOTE]

ill second that...of wht i have so far only Tumulte fits the bill.
post #15 of 19
Passage D'Enfre by L'Artisan
post #16 of 19
Armani Prive Bois d’Encens
Bond Silver Factory
post #17 of 19
I'm still trying to get a handle on this and was about to suggest L'Homme de Coeur. And while it's subtle it's not transparent because of the muskiness and because of something that stands in for, but isn't, an 80's vanilla and moss basenotes accord. There's still a wall of sound thing there. If I think about this lovely, modern masculine in comparison to Timbuktu, for instance, it seems that one of things we're talking about is a relative lack of basenotes. Or basenotes that play a different part in the composition. Whatcha think?
post #18 of 19
All four in the Escentric Molecules range.
post #19 of 19
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

From Scent Notes, Chandler Burr's column in NYTimes' T Magazine...

"Then there is perhaps the most brilliant way to use wood: render it invisible. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who frequent Sicily, asked the perfumer Olivier Cresp to locate its soul in scent."

Read the rest of the article here - http://www.nytimes.com/2007/10/07/st...e/07scent.html
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: MFD Archive
Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Male Fragrance Discussion › MFD Archive › New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .