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Grown up Gourmand?

post #1 of 32
5/14/08 at 3:53pm
Thread Starter 
I recently asked for recommendations for a grown-up vanilla and got some very good replies (thanks!), so I'm going to ask for suggestions for something slightly different...a grown-up gourmand. Something complex, layered, with a full blooded development a la a classic Guerlain, but in the gourmand category. The Camptoir Sud Pacifics of the world are just too unidimensional and juvenile on me. For example, I love Profumum Confetto, Satellite Ipanema, and Profumi di Pantelleria Jailia to name a few (I also love the notes in Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale, though on my skin it does not work for some reason). Anyway, just wondering what your favorite complex gourmands are..??
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post #2 of 32
5/14/08 at 6:55pm
Ya know, I really like the Hanae Mori HM (men's) on me. It's nowhere near as sweet as a lot of the feminine gourmands. Give it a whirl.
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post #3 of 32
5/14/08 at 6:57pm
Iris Ganache (Guerlain)
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post #4 of 32
5/14/08 at 7:13pm
I like L'Artisan's Saffran Troublant, and I also think Luten's Un Bois Vanille (while not officially 'gourmand') may please you. Please be sure to sample both, as they are somewhat similar.
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post #5 of 32
5/14/08 at 7:22pm
Spiritueuse Double Vanille... some people get basic vanilla, while I get something complex that shifts all day long between different combinations of straight vanilla extract, booze, tobacco, and leather.
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post #6 of 32
5/14/08 at 8:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tang View Post

Spiritueuse Double Vanille... some people get basic vanilla, while I get something complex that shifts all day long between different combinations of straight vanilla extract, booze, tobacco, and leather.

I agree - SDV is fantastic.

A more affordable grown up gourmand: Black Orchid by Tom Ford
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post #7 of 32
5/15/08 at 12:58am
Mike, never would I have thought that Black Orchid would fall in the gourmand category
But then, the definition of "gourmand" is one of the hardest, because it is very different from person to person.

I would recommend you try Ambre Narguilé from the Hermessences series. A classy, grown-up gourmand amber
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post #8 of 32
5/15/08 at 2:04am
Pink Sugar, don't get fooled by the cotton candy top notes, the drydown is definitely on the trad. and grown-up side,

Then there's Sonia Rykiel "red sweater" and of course Angel
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post #9 of 32
5/15/08 at 3:31am
Hermes Elixir des Merveilles

Notes of chocolate-covered candied orange peel, caramel, vanilla biscuit (vanilla sugar, tonka bean), creamy milk, sandalwood, incense, resins, ambergris, Peru balsam and balsam of Siam, oak, patchouli and cedar.
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post #10 of 32
5/15/08 at 4:47am
I think Shalimar is sort of gourmand...at least in the higher concentrations.

EDIT: I forgot to mention Chanel Bois de Iles--the gingerbread is almost edible
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post #11 of 32
5/15/08 at 4:54am
My favorite gourmands are sweet and spicy, or dessert-like...

Lolita Lempicka - Slightly sinister magic forest candyland.
Tom Ford Black Orchid - I agree with Mike, I find this truly gourmand (truffle, coconut, etc.).
Kenzo Flower Le Parfum - This spicy oriental scent just blew me away, almond makes it gourmand to me.
Angel - a bit of a cliche by now maybe...but still brilliant, and so many variations of it.
Jicky - my latest big, big love, it's quite dessert like lemon/vanilla; simple yet comlex. Pure genius.
Thierry Mugler Innocent - another dessert scent, praline/caramel deliciousness.
Bond No. 9 Chinatown - fruity/syrupy/spicy/floral/musky
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post #12 of 32
5/15/08 at 4:58am
Tig, I know only orange and rose Sonia Rykiel sweater. Which one is red? Was it LE?
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post #13 of 32
5/15/08 at 6:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alicka61 View Post

Tig, I know only orange and rose Sonia Rykiel sweater. Which one is red? Was it LE?

The orange one is often referred to as the red sweater (the discontinued Eau de SR with liquorice note was the blue sweater).
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post #14 of 32
5/15/08 at 6:19am
How about Aomassai, by Parfumerie Generale? I've only tried a sample, but I think it will be something to splurge on for next winter.

Notes from Luckyscent:
Caramel, toasted hazelnuts, licorice, bitter orange, spices, wenge wood, vetiver, balsam wood, incense, dried grasses, resins.
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post #15 of 32
5/15/08 at 7:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post

Hermes Elixir des Merveilles

Notes of chocolate-covered candied orange peel, caramel, vanilla biscuit (vanilla sugar, tonka bean), creamy milk, sandalwood, incense, resins, ambergris, Peru balsam and balsam of Siam, oak, patchouli and cedar.

Great suggestion, I totally agree! it's incredible. I would also suggest you to try Cartier Le baisier du dragon edt with its luscious amaretto note: a divine chypre-gourmand!
Going niche, another good call is the more expensive Aomassai together with Musc Maori from Parfumerie Generale to which I also would add Lutens Borneo (patchouli and cocoa beans) and Mandarine-mandarin (orange marmelade).
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post #16 of 32
5/15/08 at 7:46am
How about A*Men Pure Coffee or its more expensive counterpart New Haarlem by Bond? I'm not a big gourmande fan, but coffee scents do it for me.

Oh, both are very unisex btw, even if marketed for men.
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post #17 of 32
5/15/08 at 7:52am
My new fave, Moss Breeches has bee's wax and vanilla. Yum!
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post #18 of 32
5/15/08 at 12:54pm
Guerlain INSOLENCE
Guerlain Shalimar parfum
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post #19 of 32
5/15/08 at 1:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asha View Post

I think Shalimar is sort of gourmand...at least in the higher concentrations.

EDIT: I forgot to mention Chanel Bois de Iles--the gingerbread is almost edible

Seconded!
Funnily enough, Eau de Shalimar isn't too bad.

I also find Serge Lutens Chergui is very complex vanilla smelling, though technically it is a hay scent ...
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post #20 of 32
5/15/08 at 1:17pm
Thread Starter 
Great suggestions all..this was so fun, and now I have lots of samples to order, and frags to revisit! You all are awesome.

Dewey eyed--I'll look for a sample of Hanae Mori HM today!

seattlelight--I have a sample of Iris Ganache, and just recently (2 days ago) tried it...LOVE it.

ubuandibeme--I'll have to try the L'Artisan. I have SL's Un Bois Vanille in a large decant and wear it often. Like toasted vanilla marshmallow powder. My kids love it on me, too!

Tang and mikeperez I have tried Spirituese DV without any success. It just doesn't work on me. Smells great on my sister-in-law, however...weird how that works. And Mike, I have a thing against Tom Ford. I find many of his ads misogynistic, so I won't buy anything of his. My loss I guess, because some of his frags are really great.

Lady in Black: Ambre Narguile is just yummy. I may invest in a full bottle Thanks for reminding me how great it is...haven't worn it for a while.

Tigrushka..I'll definitely have to try the Rykiel. And I've been hindered from trying Pink Sugar because of the marketing which so obviously seems aims at the very young. Now I'll have to go to my local Sephora for a spritz and keep an open mind. Unfortunately, Angel has a very powerful BO accord on my skin...I'm talking 5 men on a fishing boat for two weeks BO. Oh well!

Petruccijcc--yes yes yes, Elixir dex Merveilles is just awesome. Thanks for reminding me. Must buy STAT!

Asha..I just put Bois des Iles in my cart at The Perfumed Court..thanks for the recommendation.

Lilybelle: what a great list. Thank you! There are several fragrances on it I have not tried, but will!

Tang: Aomassai is, if I recall, just yummy, and exactly what I mean by grownup gourmand. I have a sample from Lucky Scent, but I have not sniffed in a while. Time to revisit!

Magnifiscent: Love the suggestions, several of which I have not tried. I thank you, and the Perfumed Court thanks you (credit card groaning now).

So Fresh, girlsodeadly, and bromo33333, thank you for the suggestions! Samples will be ordered.

Ruggles..never thought of Moss Breches as gourmand, but I will have to re-sniff my sample. Thanks.


Again...thanks everyone. Being a newbie I really appreciate all the help I can get! Liz
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post #21 of 32
5/15/08 at 4:24pm
Flowerbomb and Nuits de Noho are two that have never let me down.
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post #22 of 32
5/15/08 at 5:36pm
There are two that never let me down also:

Red Aoud by Montale

Aomassi by Parfumarie Generale - Just bought a bottle for my Wife for Mother's Day. She loves it.
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post #23 of 32
5/16/08 at 2:46am
I third my newest frag, Hermes Elixir des Merveilles, and I secound Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon. Both are grown up, and not so obvious gourmands.
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post #24 of 32
5/16/08 at 4:16am
Actually, I love Eau de Shalimar: it smells like lemon custard, and it's just delicious. I can't stop sniffing my wrists when I wear it.
I also love Safran Troublant and the wonderful Ambre Narguile (candied nuts ). However, many of the so called "gourmand scents" are too sweet for me.
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post #25 of 32
5/16/08 at 12:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofresh View Post

How about A*Men Pure Coffee or its more expensive counterpart New Haarlem by Bond? I'm not a big gourmande fan, but coffee scents do it for me.

Oh, both are very unisex btw, even if marketed for men.

Oh, I do loooooove the coffee scented Angel! I wanted to buy it for my husband, but I know he won't wear it. Perhaps you're right - I'll just get some for myself!
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post #26 of 32
5/16/08 at 3:11pm
I'd like to be another voice for Aomassi, it's the sort of dessert you have when you're dining with the grown-ups and have spent a great deal of money on the preceeding courses and booze. I'd also mention Mazzolari Lei, it's got a drier version of chocolate, more like the natural cocoa pod, and I've had a lot of compliments on it. Did anyone suggest Micallef's Note Vanillee? It's not all vanilla, it has citrus, vanilla, honey and a boozy undertone. I love all of these and I'm not a gourmand lover.
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post #27 of 32
5/19/08 at 6:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreams&drafts View Post

I'd like to be another voice for Aomassi, it's the sort of dessert you have when you're dining with the grown-ups and have spent a great deal of money on the preceeding courses and booze. I'd also mention Mazzolari Lei, it's got a drier version of chocolate, more like the natural cocoa pod, and I've had a lot of compliments on it. Did anyone suggest Micallef's Note Vanillee? It's not all vanilla, it has citrus, vanilla, honey and a boozy undertone. I love all of these and I'm not a gourmand lover.


I'm glad you mentioned Note Vanillee. I think few have tried this one because in the USA you need to get samples from fourseasons. Simply puts Guerlains Spiriteuse Double Vanille to shame. Vanilla lovers really need to experience Note Vanille. It will spoil you for all others.
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post #28 of 32
5/19/08 at 7:00pm
Surprised no one has mentioned Musc Ravageur? Cinnamon... mmm.

Also, Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy is sweet; I think opinions may vary as to whether it's juvenile or not.
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post #29 of 32
5/19/08 at 7:28pm
Hi! I too tried the Sud Pacifique fragrances and found them to be - I don't know - too simplistic? Have you tried Ayala Moriel's fragrances? I recently ordered several samples from her, and really enjoyed her Cabaret, which really does smell like the confection called Turkish delight - all rosewater-y and almond-y. Yummy, very interesting fragrance. She has three others that sound foody: Finjan, a "spiced Turkish coffee gourmand"; Guilt, with its "bouquet of choocolate and orange blossom"; and Immortelle l'Amour, that I think is supposed to smell like cinnamon pancakes with maple syrup (!)

I intend to try them all, though not sure about the last one as I don't like the taste of maple syrup. Fun thread!
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post #30 of 32
5/19/08 at 7:39pm
Plus Que Jamais
Shalimar extrait
Angel
Immortelle Amour from Ayala Moriel
Vamp by Ava Luxe, kind of a sexy cotton candy
Rahat Loukhoum by Keiko Mecheri
Arabie by Serge Lutens
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post #31 of 32
5/20/08 at 7:18am
Firstly I will advise you slighlty different. It's not typically categorized in the gourmand section, but there is a candied fruits top note that is mixed perfectly with patchouli and vetiver: it's Coco Mademoiselle edp. A similar but fruitier one is Liberté by Cacharel. Osmoz lists both in the chypre category, but they are borderline. However, you may like a true fruity chypre as Deci DelÃ* by Nina Ricci, yummy with the raspberry and peach top notes.

For something more obvious in the gourmand category: Hypnotic Poison, with its almond and tonka notes and Kenzo Amour with delicious rice and milk notes.

At last, another perfume with a rich peachy-violet sillage: Trésor by Lancôme.

The pyramids of these fragrances:

Coco Mademoiselle edp:
Top notes: Orange, Bergamot
Middle notes: Rose, Jasmine
Base notes: Patchouli, Vetiver

Liberté:
Top notes: Bergamot, Mandarin Orange
Middle notes: Orange, Icing Sugar, Sun-drenched Flowers
Base notes: Patchouli, Vanilla, Vetiver


Deci DelÃ*:
Top notes: Peach, Apricot, Raspberry, Boronia
Middle notes: Jasmine, Freesia, Azelnut, Orris
Base notes: Patchouli, Vanilla, Sandal, Styrax


Hypnotic Poison:
Top notes:Coconut, Plum, Pimento, Apricot
Middle notes: Rose, Lily of the valley, Sambac Jasmine, Tuberose
Base notes: Sandal, Jacaranda wood, Vanilla


Kenzo Amour:
Top notes: Frangipani, Blossom
Middle notes: Cherry Blossom, White Tea, Frankincense
Base notes: Thanaka Wood, Rice, Vanilla


Trésor:
Top notes: Peach, Apricot, Pineapple, Bergamot
Middle notes: Rose, Orris, Heliotrope, Jasmine
Base notes: Sandal, Musk, Vanilla
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post #32 of 32
5/20/08 at 3:26pm
I'll add my recs:

Theorema - tangelo, cream, spices
Organza Indecence - vanilla, woods, spices, smells like wonderful spiced custard
Nirmala - same vein as Nuits de Noho and Angel only more wearable to me
Mira-bai - cassis and pralines
Eau de Reglisse - citrus, ginger, licorice, vanilla
Gourmandises - fruit rose jam and saffron
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