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Are Chanel No.5, 22, Tabac Blond etc REALLY Vetiver scents???

post #1 of 6
6/25/08 at 9:35pm
Thread Starter 
An article about vetiver entitled "Oil and water mix - and how" appeared in the Essential liftout (a style/lifestyle supplement) in today's Sydney Morning Herald and I really can't get my head around it.

Acknowledging that vetiver was a popular note in men's fragrances mid century (i.e. Guerlain, Givenchy, Carven), the writer says that "before then, vetiver was the note that sounded the liberation of women. Chanel was a big player of this freedom tune in No. 5 and No. 22, as were other famous vetiver sisters who bobbed their hair and threw away their corsets in early 20th century - classics such as Mitsouko, Tabac Blond and Habanita."

Now I have never really considered No. 5 or 22 as vetiver scents - yes they may have vetiver in them, but aren't they predominantly floral aldehylic scents? I am not sure I would put them in the same company as Guerlain Vetiver or the new Chanel Sycomore. Similarly with Tabac Blond and Mitsouko, probably as far from vetiver scents as I could imagine.

Those of you who know these scents better than I, would you consider them a family of "vetiver sisters" or has the writer got it a little wrong?
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post #2 of 6
6/26/08 at 7:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Santemon View Post

I am not sure I would put them in the same company as Guerlain Vetiver or the new Chanel Sycomore.

Me neither.
Vetiver-scents are relatively dry and unsweet.
If one is tempted to lump fragrances into the "vetiver category," simply based on the fact that vetiver is a component, regardless of the presence of florals or fruits or musks, that category would soon be overflowing with new chypres, too.
And by the way, if Nos. 5 and 22 are to be included, pray tell, why not No. 19 also?
I think the writer's premise is overblown.
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post #3 of 6
6/26/08 at 7:46am
I don't consider those scents to be "vetiver" in any manner.
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post #4 of 6
6/26/08 at 7:01pm
...and not every sweet vanillic fragrance is a gourmand...not every citrus scent is a cologne...not every scent that contains floral components is a floral....
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post #5 of 6
6/27/08 at 3:12am
No. 5 and No. 22 are loaded in sandalwood in the base, not vetiver. Nor Tabac Blond or Mitsouko are vetiver scents at all.
Not even all vetiver scents are unsweet; take for example Cartier Le Baisier du Dragon: it has a heavy green vetiver base, but it's loaded with sweeter top/middle notes like peony, gardenia, amaretto etc...
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post #6 of 6
6/27/08 at 5:22am
In regards to this discussion, I am reminded of my last "Sniff 'n Speak" experience. I alternated between 4 fragrances which had plenty of citrus in the notes. However, only 3 were predominantly citrus. The remaining one only really had citrus in it, I suppose in the same way cake batter would have eggs. You can sort of tell it is there, but it no longer is identifiable as citrus.
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Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Female Fragrance Discussion › Are Chanel No.5, 22, Tabac Blond etc REALLY Vetiver scents???