Smelled the new L'artisan by Bertrand Duchaufour

Sounds like it might be Eau de LIane, if it's the the same frag as described in This Blog Entry.

If so, sounds intriguing and it looks like an October release date. Which would be a good time for a green scent around these parts.

Very interesting. His last scent for Eau d'Italie was very much like you described...perhaps he's taken a turn for the worst!

It might be an indication of high-end niche trend then; Diptyque's recent Eau de Lierre is all green with ivy.

Thanks for that info DustB. I think one of my Diptyque samples is Eau de Lierre. Wasn't sure what it was about. But that sounds intriguing.

I agree with sofresh: this one could be along the lines of Magnolia Romana. I actually liked Magnolia Romana, so I for me the new scent holds promise.

I liked Magnolia Romana, but it was a bit mundane for Duchaufour...I guess I was expecting something with a bit more punch. I wouldn't turn down a bottle, but I doubt I would buy one either.

What makes it 'feminine' smelling to you musclegod007? Florals? The overall effect?

So do I! I really found Magnolia Romana a nice turn on the marine notes from Duchaufour and probably the brightest and wearable of Eau d'Italie scents. Green scents and colognes are indeed the latest trend in perfumery. Duchaufour is one of the most interesting noses around lately and I guess, even if it will be a turn on the theme of Magnolia Romana, he won't disappoint us. I also have high hopes on this scent because it's the first scent concocted as in-house nose, and maybe he's not so dummy in putting out something boring.

Magnolia Romana didn't smell at all "feminine" on me. The sharp, peppery kick it packs makes it squarely unisex to my nose.

Here, by the way, is my full review, for those who don't browse the Directory:

****

Neither of the two earlier Eau dItalie scents Ive tried Sienne lHiver or Bois dOmbrie pleased me much, but I just had to know what Bertrand Duchaufour, master of dark, smoky incense, would do with an aquatic floral. Magnolia Romana goes on with a blend of green floral notes and smoky (yes smoky,) nutmeg so beautifully calculated that I want to freeze the opening in place for hours. But after a few minutes an aquatic accord wells up to douse the smoke, and Magnolia Romana emerges quickly and dramatically from veiled mystery to limpid clarity. Bright rose, crisp cypress, and ozone/calone notes blend into an accord that smells more of lotus than magnolia to me, while a very hard-edged cedar interacts with the rose to yield a nose-tingling peppery accent.

Its that sharp, peppery edge that keeps me engaged as Magnolia Romana develops. Its bitter dissonance rescues the scent from the comfortable blandness that ruins so many watery florals. Another redeeming feature is an utter lack of sugar. Most similarly structured scents I know wallow in gobs of tropical fruit syrup, but this one eschews the melon margarita mix for a bracing shot of Campari.

Once it reveals its cool, bitter heart Magnolia Romana remains linear for three or four hours before folding down into its cedar base. Though not a weak scent, it wears close to the skin, even when applied generously. Magnolia Romana is not a scent for those who enjoy filling a room with their fragrance, but I can recommend it as a warm weather option for anyone who hankers after a sugar free variation on the aquatic green floral theme.

26 June 2008