Andy Tauer's new Unnamed Vetiver: 1st Impression

Lonestar Memories, Incense Rose, Incense Extreme & L'Air du Desert Marocain seem to all dry down to a certain Tauer-ade likeness in the base. It would be interesting to know if this Vetiver moves in a similar direction.

His blog gives a date of October 2008

Talk about great customer service. I emailed Mr. Tauer last Friday for a sample and here is his reply:

"Indeed, you are very late. But I love your interest in my work.
I prepared 100 envelops and they are all gone. Then I had plan B and made beforehand an extra of 10 for the late bloomers. They are all gone , too. And then I have plan C. Meaning, I make a little bit more of the fragrance than I needed for this 3 year blogging thing and I printed some extra cards.Thus, we engage in plan C, for you. I poured it, glued it and will send it off in 2 hours. If you get it and have questions about: Just ask. I am at your disposal.
Fragrant greetings to you.
Best
Andy"

Can't wait to smell it!

wow.....thats one nice guy

Andy's a very cool guy. That's why I sometimes feel bad for not being able to admire his more recent releases. Although I'm waiting in hope for something new by him to blow me away, I'm afraid I can only wait so long...

I have a similar story, regarding Mr. Tauer, and his kindness.So as a result I also have a sample in the mail.I own,three of his fragrances, and one of his works Orris, may break into my top 5 list.I'm hopeing his Vetiver offering is equally as well blended.So, it would seem that he is concerned about the people that form his customer base.Refreshing in this day, and age,when some couldn't care less about customer service.

This is perhaps my most anticipated scent of the year. Couple Andy's kind heart and talent with my love for all things vetiver and....I am excited.

What a class act. If only some of the major houses were so responsive and in touch with their clientele.

I am really looking forward to this also!

JEALOUSJEALOUSJEALOUSJEALOUS!!!!

This is me being jealous of you. Get a good look.

Bah! Pbbbbbbbbbbbbbbt!!!!

Yeah, a really interesting and generous person with his time and perfume and postage. I like the blog both for what he has to say about frags and for his reflections on work: the ways in the which he takes on the utterly mundane business of gluing labels and filling boxes much in the same spirit as the actual composition. Seems to hold out hope for some kind of unity of the daily with the extraordinary. Love Andy's whole enterprise.

Was there a dominant vetiver note here? It doesn't sound like the vetiver is a major player. Sounds like an incense fragrance with vetiver among a lot of other things.

I smelled this at his appearance at ScentBar (or a version of it) and thought it was just wonderful. I wish I was quick enough to get a sample of it. Oh well...

That's the funny thing. It is and it is not. You smell vetiver clearly from the beginning and than it goes to the background and the clary sage-lily of the valley accord takes the lead. Sometimes it looks like there is no vetiver in it, but the next second you smell it again. It becomes stronger again and reminds you it's still a vetiver fragrance. A kind of switching play...

This is the major difference with "uninterrupted" vetiver fragrances like the one from Guerlain, Sycomore, Encre Noire etc. The dark inky vetiver of Andy's has some resemblance with vetiver of Encre Noire. But the clary sage-lily of the valley accord makes it very uniqe - this accord is as strong and prominent as the vetiver itself.

Today I am wearing Tauers new Vetiver. Here's my initial impression...

Its really very astonishing... extremely unisex... my wife and I are both wearing it and singing its praises!
There is a delicious softness in the opening, but vetiver is also very "present"... there is a beautiful dustiness (cedar) beneath, and the light florals/greens are beautifully juxtaposed against a soft, creamy tonka heart. I wouldn't say I could liken it to any one specific Tauer release... but there is a very distinctive "red thread" running through this, and his other creations.
There's no incense here (at least, to my nose) as suggested by another user above.

This is a fantastic addition to Tauer's portfolio. Absolutely top notch!
I will write a full review later, and post it in my blog.

I've put my review in a new thread and later found this one has already begun. Well - let's keep everything in one place. I place it here:

The perfume opens with a bitter sweet citrus freshness of grapefruit supported by a spiciness of clary sage. And than from the depth of the fragrance comes vetiver. It spills like a pot of black ink filling everything with dark, slightly smokey, earthy and herbaceous aroma. The bitter sweetness of coumarin from Tonka beans supports and emphasizes the aromatic medicinal part of vetiver from one side and from another side it re-echoes with a bitter sweetness of a grapefruit note. White floral and slightly spicy accord of clary sage and lily of the valley jingles above dark vetiver-coumarine ravine. Although the vetiver note is very prominent and present at the background I am not sure if it’s a vetiver fragrance – a very beautiful clary sage accord of this perfume takes a lead on my skin at some moments making the vetiver just to follow and support at the background. At another moments it surrenders to vetiver becoming just a soft part of it. The play between the Clary sage-Lily of the Valley accord and Vetiver is like a dance.

I have put some more information about the colours and imaginary association with this perfume on my blog - here

UPDATE: Andy told about the pepper explosion at the beginning. I couldn't recognize it at the first sniff (may be hidden behind the bitterness of grapefruit or what I describe as spiciness of clary sage) - I shall try it again...

As promised a little earlier, I have just added a slightly more expanded review of Tauer's "Vetiver Dance" to my blog. Please visit the link in my siggy

I was also lucky enough to get one of the samples, and Ihave to agree, this is really a winner in my book and as soon as I can preorder I will!...The vetiver is present throughout the composition, but I would say it is part of the ensemble and not necessarily the star. To me, it is an impressionistic veitver rather than a realistic one.

I've only worn it once, but can't wait to wear it again.

Regards,
Steve

I wish somebody tells him to start making 100ml bottles as well. Lonestar Memories is probably one of the best scents I have smelled in the past couple of years or so. This vetiver one definitely sounds very intriguing.

I know exactly what you're talking about Dimitri.

I saw 'red' when I tested Orris, Incense Extreme and Incense Rose also. It kind of reminds me of the smell of a crushed flower stamen (you know, like lillies have). Maybe it's the iris (orris)?

I guess the rest of us fall under plan D for the October release. What a gracious and wise business man is Andy. I'm just starting to get into his line and like it alot so far. Dimitri's review of L'air du Desert Marocain piqued my interest so that I think that I'm gonna be in for a bottle soon after purchasing a decant. Congrats to those who fell under Plans A through C. Lucky dogs.

Update - To my pleasant surprise, Mr. Tauer actually sent me a 2.5ml glass sample. Received in a well protected cardboard envelope with a letter ....all for less than a week from Switzerland!
Agree with what others have said in the previous posts. It is a different take on Vetiver. It is unlike many of the other vetiver scents which starts with a citrusy opening. Vetiver takes a back seat and intermingles with the rest of the notes. It is not loud. However, I did get a strong medicinal/earthy type of smell on the top note for about 5 minutes, perhaps just to my nose. The scent wears close to the skin and lasts quite a long time on me. .

I received my sample yesterday as well.

I have to say that after wearing it last night, that it is not working for me. Maybe it is the Lily of the Valley or Clary sage, I am not sure at this point. I didn't care for the drydown either. This morning I smelled my wrists and it smelled like a sweaty bottom on me. I want to like this one really bad. I will continue to try it, but the first impression is that I wanted more earthy vetiver. I got more sweetness and floral than I wanted and a sweaty bottom smell at the end.

Hopefully my nose will do a 180 at some point. I am in the extreme minority at this point so maybe my nose is sucking big time.

You think I would like it? L'Air is so totally unlike anything that I hvae laid my nose on (well, the burnt rubber note of Bulgari Black qualifies). that I would want to try this. I have had problems with Vetiver in the past. Either too soapy - Creed Original Vetiver - or too earthy - the Guerlain Vetiver that Mando Christo gifted me about 4 or 5 years ago was like raw damp earth. Vetiver Extraordinaire was okay, but the chocolate predominated. Id be interested in revisiting this, as Tauer seems like the guy who has a vision, and does not want to come out with say 16 scents all at once, but to get the one scent right. That is why I have not tried Tom Ford, because one day, he is designing clothes, the next day, there are like 15 scents under his name.

You are more than welcome to try it finsfan. I have the sample. Let me know...my gut feeling is that it is not your cup of tea though.

Well, Jock, after you have finished it, if there is enough to put on the wrist, yeah, some day Id like to stop by and try it out. But no rush, and if you use it up, no biggie. Despite not wanting to accumulate bottles, I have gotten Tangerine Verte, Scent Intense and now Piper Nigrum (love it, but got the smaller size).

Ah... it begins!

I think that anticipation of a dark earthy slightly mossy and woody vetiver is what may cause disappointment. It's not a vetiver as expected and learned from "classic Vetiver" fragrances. It was difficult for me too to abstract from the idea of expected Vetiver fragrance and accept the Vetiver Dance as it was - a fragrance where Vetiver is a major, but not the only leading component.

Another problem point may be caused by Clary Sage - it gives a sophisticated twist to the whole fragrance. But it's a tough one - flowery from one side, but medicinal herbal from another. It's pretty good tamed by Andy, but still can turn too medicinal on someone's skin.

In your particular case it looks like floral Lily of the valley - Clary Sage accord is more prominent than expected and dominates the Vetiver note. I think here is not much to do about. Except - try this perfume again as NOT-vetiver fragrance - just a kind of new perfume you don't know anything about - no expectations, no prejudices - just total nirvana ;-)

I am surprised about dry out on your skin - sweet? I defenitely had a dry out very similar to L'air du desert marocain... I hope you'll get something similar too on your skin.

I think you are correct on all counts. I should try to wear it next as just a new frag and not thinking of preconceived notions or expectations. The drydown hit me like it had myhrre. Myhrre seems to give me that arse note more often than not, but there is no myhrre listed. Thanks for the insight. I am not giving up on it for sure....

Hey Guys. Looks like this is now going to be released Either October 4th or 17th per Andy Tauer website!! He looks like he will once again be in LA releasing this scent at Scentbar/Luckyscentt. This is another scent I forgot about and cant wait to smell. I believe it will be an instant buy as I am a green scent fanatic as well as a Tauer scent fanatic!! I cant wait for this one.

http://www.tauerperfumes.com/blog/

Dimitri, I don't know if you noticed but I was visiting Andy Tauer's blog today and he cites your blog as one of his daily reads!

I think AromaX is making a great point.

I was browsing the little spa/gift shop at my gym yesterday afternoon (killing some time, waiting for Ray to take a shower) and I noticed they had some essential oils. I hate smelling already blended oils, because I never really know what is inside the blend. But they had some pure eucalyptus, sage, lavender and another I can't remember. The sage oil was just as described above. Really medicinal yet strongly aromatic (herbal) and it hits the top of your nose. Reminded me of a strongly scented skin balm (like BenGay or something like that).

I've never zeroed in on sage in fragrances. I do remember many years ago, an acquaintance of mine was a massage therapist and she used to burn sage after her massages and I guess I always associated sage with that smell. But of course, sage (in a non burnt state) smells totally different. It's almost like a really, really medicinal lavender.

After all, I could sample Vetiver Dance which I awaited impatiently as I'm not only a Vetiver lover but also appreciate almost all of Andy Tauer's other creations very much.
But unfortunately I can only confirm JWS's experience: a beautiful, rounded Vetiver at the beginning that turns into a sweaty, cloying note during the drydown on my skin. No trace of Vetiver is left after half an hour, and I can't bear that pungent accord in the end - and it is clary sage indeed, reminding me of a highly toxic lavender mutant.
There's a similar note in the drydown of Reverie Au Jardin, not as strong as in Vetiver Dance, but still it keeps me from wearing RauJ more often.

Ah, what a disappointment. Maybe Andy will launch another vetiver one day, heavy on the Vetiver and without clary sage... or, even better, the amazing, stunning Hyacinths & the Mechanic ...

For anyone interested in sampling Tauer's Vetiver Dance prior to its october launch, please visit my blog using the link below, as I am currently running a small Vetiver Dance competition. More info there.

Hi Dimitri. Great opportunity. Thanks for that. I just published a comment. I hope I get an opportunity to win one. I love Andy's work. Great Blog!!

This vacation I was browsing through still unknown fragrances and grabbed for a Gray Flannel I never smelled before. I was really surprised by its resemblance with the white flower accord of Andy's Vetiver Dance. It's not the same (more hyacinth and less pepper), but shows the direction. So, if you want to get an idea about what Vetiver Dance smells like - try layering of Encre Noire and Gray Flannel ;-) I did try it with Vetiver from Guerlain (2 sprays + 1 spray of Gray Flannel) just to give someone a general idea what direction to think about Andy's Vetiver Dance (I didn't have a sample with me). But personally - I still prefer the original ;-)

Thanks for your comment. I just see that you are describing the smell of Sage while it's not the same as the Clary Sage. The last one has the similar name to a common Sage, but the smell is very different. Sage is much more medicinal and Clary sage is more floral/white floral.

And to be completely honest - clary sage seems to be something I get from Andy's Vetiver - but I can't say if he really used it of it's a combination of something else I smell like clary sage. He might also use the sage in his fragrance.

I am having the same problem with this one. I do like the opening, but really hate the drydown.

I will try it again, but have a feeling that this one is not going to work for me

I hate to hear that. I hated to be negative about it, but it is what it is. Hope that others find it more to their liking for sure.

Damn! I was hoping to be proven wrong with this one (I haven't tried it but, based on most of the lukewarm reviews, the writing's on the wall). Oh, well, maybe next time...