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New Vetiver of Andy Tauer - short review

post #1 of 11
7/7/08 at 2:18pm
Thread Starter 
The perfume opens with a bitter sweet citrus freshness of grapefruit supported by a spiciness of clary sage. And than from the depth of the fragrance comes vetiver. It spills like a pot of black ink filling everything with dark, slightly smokey, earthy and herbaceous aroma. The bitter sweetness of coumarin from Tonka beans supports and emphasizes the aromatic medicinal part of vetiver from one side and from another side it re-echoes with a bitter sweetness of a grapefruit note. White floral and slightly spicy accord of clary sage and lily of the valley jingles above dark vetiver-coumarine ravine. Although the vetiver note is very prominent and present at the background I am not sure if its a vetiver fragrance a very beautiful clary sage accord of this perfume takes a lead on my skin at some moments making the vetiver just to follow and support at the background. At another moments it surrenders to vetiver becoming just a soft part of it. The play between the Clary sage-Lily of the Valley accord and Vetiver is like a dance.

I have put some more information about the colours and imaginary association with this perfume on my blog - here or at http://aromax-on-line.blogspot.com/2...fragrance.html
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post #2 of 11
9/3/08 at 2:27pm
Can't find the other thread so I'll post my impression here. I received my Vetiver Dance sample today from Dimitiri's raffle (thanks!) and had to try some right now. I don't get too much grapefruit, a nice spicy pepper opening tough which blooms into an interesting clary sage - floral - vetiver combo with the vetiver - this is after 20 minutes - playing a supporting role. This creamy-green floral-herbal accord reminds me of two old classics - vintage Nino Cerruti ph and Jil Sander Background. I'm wearing some Background on the other arm right now and while VD is less floral and more woody-green (because of the vetiver, of course) I find a very similar vibe in both. I don't have my Cerruti here for actual comparison but from memory would guess it is even closer. So, in my scent universe, this evokes clear retro connotations - very good ones, too. This is a very smoothly textured perfume, quite unisex or metrosexual and I would think it best suited for spring and cooler summer days. Autumn calls for a bit more ruggedness when it comes to Vetiver, but that's just my opinion. The excellent ingredients and great craftsmanship shine through here. It's the best vetiver I've tried since Villoresi (and I prefer it to Lubin's Vetiver and Guerlain, too, but then I can't handle that tobacco-vetiver combo at all).
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post #3 of 11
9/3/08 at 4:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AromaX View Post

The perfume opens with a bitter sweet citrus freshness of grapefruit supported by a spiciness of clary sage. And than from the depth of the fragrance comes vetiver. It spills like a pot of black ink filling everything with dark, slightly smokey, earthy and herbaceous aroma.

thnx for your post! you make me want to try this out! where is Jock wiht Scents!!? our inhouse Vetiver expert...
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post #4 of 11
9/3/08 at 4:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jenson View Post

thnx for your post! you make me want to try this out! where is Jock wiht Scents!!? our inhouse Vetiver expert...

If I am your in-house vetiver expert, then dogs fly and rain falls up. I just love to wear vetiver frags but haven't a clue as to why I like the vetiver frags that I do and dislike some as well (looking at Vetiver Dance).

Most vetiver experts would argue that the frags I love that have vetiver in them, probably shouldn't even be considered vetiver dominant frags.

Sorry Jenson...lol...but me talking to you all about vetiver would be like 'the blind leading the naked'.
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post #5 of 11
9/3/08 at 4:45pm
I also sampled Vetiver Dance, and it goes on a bone dry Vetiver which is over shadowed by Clary Sage, not just a bit, but overtakes the whole top of this fragrance.After this clary sage attack settles down florals enter the picture, but do not support the vetiver in my opinion, but rather distracts from it almost to the point of this not being a Vetiver fragrance. Lilly of the valley, and Clary Sage, and a drowned out Vetiver form the dry down which is dark, and lasts forever, which in this case I don't know if thats a good or bad thing. I think I will put this sample away, and try again in lets say November when the weather is much cooler, and see what I think about it then. I have a feeling I may have a different opinion.
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post #6 of 11
9/23/08 at 6:39am
sampled Tauer Vetiver Dance today. does anyone find its sillage dead similar to SL's Chergui (of course, minus the milky headiness of Chergui). i matter of fact found VD much more interesting and to my taste than Chergui...fact is, im smitten by the hands of the master...cant wait to try Lddm..and other in thr series...a BIG thumbs up, finally, a vetiver to my liking.
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post #7 of 11
9/23/08 at 7:43am
Is a pattern emerging that this is a vetiver preferred by those who generally don't like vetivers?

I love vetiver and, having worn my sample of Vetiver Dance three or four times, I'm still not sure what I think about it. About a minute into the opening there's a combination of notes (grapefruit+black pepper+clary sage, I think) that I really dislike, but that dissipates quicky. And I quite like the dry down.

At the end of the day, I suppose I feel that this is an extraordinarily well-done fragrance that may just not be for me. Though I'm still looking forward to giving it another try.
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post #8 of 11
10/8/08 at 3:16pm
I got to wear Vetiver Dance today for the first time and have a couple first impressions that I'd love some comments on. First, the topnotes remind me very much of Villoresi Vetiver. A celeryseed-like note and some clary sage? And a similar pleasant scorched earth feeling to the initial presentation. But I haven't read this comparison from anyone else, except in reference to the quality of Vetiver Dance, as opposed to the smell.
And second, the drydown reminds me very much of Hermes Caleche, a seldom-mentioned perfume on the male boards. Thing is, I have very little idea of what I'm smelling in Caleche, but suffice it to say that there are elements of mildly aldhehydic floral chypre to the drydown. It's a more interesting ride than the Villoresi, but finally perhaps not a different enough take on vetiver for me to lay out the money.
Can't decide if I'm more disappointed that it's not love at first sniff, or relieved that it seems like I can keep my money. I'll keep smellin' and thinkin', at any rate. Thoughts?
PS Several hours later VD (huh, hadn't thought of that) is still evolving. There was a coda to the topnotes (how is that possible?) and now I'm getting a very warm nutmeg and musk accord. This is interesting, complex stuff. I bow to Mr. Tauer.
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post #9 of 11
10/8/08 at 6:46pm
I smelled Vetiver Dance on paper this weekend. I am looking for a particular vetiver, inspired by vetiver essential oil that I have. In comparison, VD smells nothing like the real thing. So, I dismissed it as being "not vetiver", but it would be interesting if I try it again just on its own merits (especially given the comparison to Chergui).
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post #10 of 11
10/8/08 at 8:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post

... And a similar pleasant scorched earth feeling to the initial presentation....

Javanese vetiver often has a smoky feel.

Personally, I think Vetiver Dance is one the greatest variations on the vetiver/tonka theme ever made. It has Andy's signature feel of a wisp of smoke (?) lingering on the edge of preconsciousness. I have worn it off and on for almost a month. Vetiver Dance never fails to intrigue me and confound my attempts at deconstructing its notes and accords. However, I just want to wear it and enjoy the experience.

Fans of Dior Eau Noire and Hermessence Vetiver Tonka take note.
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post #11 of 11
10/8/08 at 9:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post

VD (huh, hadn't thought of that) is still evolving.

LMAO! Microbiologists everywhere are in complete agreement with your findings!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post

This is interesting, complex stuff. I bow to Mr. Tauer.

Very exciting. I'm not sure which of his scents is going to be my first bottle now, but this one is a must for sampling. The scorched earth note, under control, is the part of some vetivers that I like. Yes!
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