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Thoughts on Guerlain Homme and more....

post #1 of 23
7/21/08 at 1:37am
Thread Starter 
Was in Paris a few days ago and was given a sneak-sniff of the new men's fragrance since L'instant Homme excluding Bois D'armenie, Cuir Beluga and Double Vanille. I really hate doing this as I am a huge Guerlain fan but in my opinion, this house is definately on the down slide if this is the best they can do. Nothing original or evoking about this 'new' fragrance. I have sampled this many times before. The blast of lime and some citrus blossom(lime or lemon) is so extreme, it hangs around for an eternity to the point of hijacking the entire production. And where is the so-called mojito note? So I can appreciate the lime at this point but where's the rest? Ah! Just caught a tiny whiff of it after 3 hours! The best way for me to describe this is if you sprayed Neroli Sauvage half a dozen times followed by a spritz of Double Vanille. It definately has that Neroli Sauvage top/basenote combination with the addition of cocao/tonka and maybe a little benzoin.
To wrap it up, HUGELY disappointing. GUERLIAN, you have to do better than this mess I'm afraid.
Sampled the reformulated Mitsouko and it is no different to the old, maybe a little more metallic, less voluptous. Came away with Habit de Metal, Cuir Beluga and Double Vanille.

Ciao!
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post #2 of 23
7/21/08 at 2:34am
Well, I'm ignoring all that I just read, and I'm still looking forward to the new male scent

Ignorance is bliss, as someone put it...
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post #3 of 23
7/21/08 at 2:52am
Hehe me too So often have I dismissed a new Guerlain fragrance after 1 or 2 sniffs (Philtre d'Amour, Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune, Guet-Apens) only to find out that it's a new masterpiece 1 month after. I've finally learned that I need at least one month before I can judge a new Guerlain "correctly".

Quote:
Originally Posted by shifts View Post

Well, I'm ignoring all that I just read, and I'm still looking forward to the new male scent

Ignorance is bliss, as someone put it...
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post #4 of 23
7/21/08 at 6:18am
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I sniffed the new Guerlain for men yesterday & I thought it was fantastic!
'Course, I'm a bit biased when it comes to Guerlain.
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post #5 of 23
7/21/08 at 7:18am
Isn't a mojito pretty much lime + tequila anyway?
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post #6 of 23
7/21/08 at 8:01am
That first description actually sounds really good to me! Looking forward to it.
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post #7 of 23
7/21/08 at 8:50am
Mojito is lime, rum and sugar. I imagine Spiritueuse Double Vanille mixed with Impériale and it makes my mouth water...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony87 View Post

Isn't a mojito pretty much lime + tequila anyway?
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post #8 of 23
7/21/08 at 7:06pm
Mojitos always have muddled mint mixed with the lime, rum, and sugar. Otherwise, you are looking at a Rum Collins... (which doesn't sound nearly as good).

Remember what Luca said about Carthusia Io: "Creating a minty fragrance without making you think of toothpaste is a task beyond the reach of Carthusia..." I think the the Guerlain creative team will be able to balance the note *just right*.

Teddius
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post #9 of 23
7/22/08 at 1:24am
Gosh yeah, I forgot the mint, which is odd since I LOVE drinking Mojitos! So it must be Spiritueuse Double Vanille, Impériale PLUS Herba Fresca!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teddius View Post

Mojitos always have muddled mint mixed with the lime, rum, and sugar. Otherwise, you are looking at a Rum Collins... (which doesn't sound nearly as good).

Remember what Luca said about Carthusia Io: "Creating a minty fragrance without making you think of toothpaste is a task beyond the reach of Carthusia..." I think the the Guerlain creative team will be able to balance the note *just right*.

Teddius
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post #10 of 23
7/22/08 at 2:14am
Hey, sorry to spoil the party but maybe you lot should read this thread:

http://community.basenotes.net/showt...n+homme&page=4
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post #11 of 23
7/22/08 at 4:39am
I'm keeping my fingers crossed anyway. It sounds like the brief was a mass-appeal commercial scent, but those can be enjoyable too (think Allure Homme Edition Blanche, which is creeping its way up the Bay's best-seller list). I doubt that a more subtle, "artistic" release would be surrounded by so much hype as the new Homme seems to be. I think we might expect too much from this frag if we don't keep in mind the ad campaign and the hoopla surrounding it. It's a massive commercial launch... it would be too bad if they tossed us another Bulgari, considering it's Guerlain, but we can probably blame the LVMH influence there.

Besides which, let's have a look at what Thierry Wasser has done in the past. Dior Addict, Emporio Armani Diamonds, Diesel Fuel for Life pour Femme, Calvin Klein Truth? I think they may have known what bed they were making when they hired him. Why couldn't they get Patricia de Nicolai--a Guerlain family member--instead of him?
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post #12 of 23
7/22/08 at 7:35am
i live in Paris and still wonder where one can have smelled the new Homme here : in the flagship store ? because i'ven't seen any advertisement for it
but i'm very impatient to smell it

Guerlain needs to find a new position in the modern perfumery
"donner un avenir Ã* son passé"
if they want to stay an active perfumer and not a glorious souvenir in our memeories they need to be more aggressive, create perfumes that will correspond to the taste of current times
in France the name Guerlain is still associated with "grandes bourgeoises" wearing fur coats with heavy perfumes ...
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post #13 of 23
7/22/08 at 8:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sumandre View Post

Came away with Habit de Metal, Cuir Beluga and Double Vanille.

Double Vanille can still be purchased in Paris? How much is it there?
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post #14 of 23
7/22/08 at 9:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd4t View Post

Double Vanille can still be purchased in Paris? How much is it there?

SDV has become a permanent of the Guerlain collection
you've got now spray and splash bottles
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post #15 of 23
7/22/08 at 10:36am
The mojito notes sound like Tommy Bahama's Set Sail for St. Barts. Maybe Guerlain should call this Set Sail for St. Tropez...
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post #16 of 23
7/22/08 at 10:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by germanomio View Post

SDV has become a permanent of the Guerlain collection
you've got now spray and splash bottles

But the original bottles gave you both options. Am I missing something here?
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post #17 of 23
7/23/08 at 8:58am
I've tried the new Guerlain Homme this afternoon but evaluating it is difficult because they only propose a perfumed card that you rub on your wrist to reveal the perfume
rather frustating...
what i can say is that it seems very fresh with a strong citrus/lime opening associated to a note of fresh mint very natural (the association of both reminds citronnella or verbena)
in the heart i perceived a note of pelargonium/geranium
but the drydown was nearly unsmellable (i guess it comes from the support)
it isn't comparable to any other fragrance i know , and not at all comparable to other Guerlain
it is supposed to be released on August 25th
can't wait to smell it from a full fresh bottle
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post #18 of 23
7/23/08 at 10:04am
Thanks to a wonderful Guerlain-fan I will get a "rub-card" in the mail one of these days. Gosh all the hype this scent has already got! Can't wait to smell it...
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post #19 of 23
7/24/08 at 12:43pm
I've tried and worn this for the first time. Thanks Roberto!
I like it, but then again I have a weakness for lime notes. It's perfect for summer.
Yes, it's very un -Guerlain and made to sell. It's no Heritage, and certainly no Habit rouge.And yes, I understand some hardcore classic Guerlain fans will be dissapointed, but if this makes the Guerlain brand known again with the youngsters, maybe they will move on to the more classic Guerlains.
I think it's time Guerlain wants to make good sales for a change and this is their try. So be it.
Very modern and simple and yet it has something adicting, ..to me anyway.
This will be a favorite of mine for warm summer nights.
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post #20 of 23
7/25/08 at 12:37am
It's wrong to think that Guerlain is not about simplicity. Pierre François Pascal Guerlain said: "Make good products, never compromise on quality. Always stick to simple ideas and apply them scrupulously." And Jean-Paul Guerlain said: "Luxury is something pretty and discreet. Luxury must not be something brash."

Many think that Guerlain scents are very complex. They are not, really. If Guerlain Homme is as well-composed and with the high-quality ingredients that can be expected from Guerlain, then it can be as simple as may be without me getting disappointed
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post #21 of 23
7/25/08 at 4:33am
Is it too soon to know if any U.S. retailers will be carrying this?
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post #22 of 23
7/25/08 at 4:38am
Thread Starter 
To answer a few questions from fellow basenoters, SDV can be purchased at the flagship Guerlain Store 68 Ave CE for 155 euro. On where you can get a sample of the new fragrance GH, I have to admit the young lady who attended to me kindly felt I deserved the sample, esp. after the money I had spent in the store. No sample, just a sprtiz on the wrist and spray-card.

Ciao!
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post #23 of 23
7/26/08 at 5:20pm
For Americans/Canadians looking for an SDV fix a bit closer to home, the Montreal boutique has the 75ml bottles as of two weeks ago. Toronto might still have it as well.
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