Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Female Fragrance Discussion › Help me pick rose/pipe tobacco/leather frags?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Help me pick rose/pipe tobacco/leather frags?

post #1 of 31
8/7/08 at 2:46pm
Thread Starter 
So I'm a month or two into my fragrance explorations. At this point, there are three areas in particular I'd like to focus on trying:

1) Roses. I seem to be doing fine on the white flower front, but I haven't yet found a rose fragrance with the right balance for me. I'd love a full-blown dark red rose with just the right balance of sweetness. To give you an idea, Le Labo Rose 31 was too spicy, dusty, and dry for my tastes; Aoud Rose Petals was close to my ideal except for when it turned slightly too dry and powdery; Stella was too sweet; and another frag (can't remember which) smelled like grandma's soaps.

2) Leather. Didn't really pick up leather in Kelly Caleche or Parfum de Therese. Dzing! smelled more like pleather and hay to me. I'd love a leather jacket smell.

3) Pipe tobacco, preferably unburned. Brings back fond memories of relatives. I can't stand cigarette smells, though, and that's sometimes walking a fine line! Oddly, I got the slightest touch of pipe tobacco from Crystal Flowers, which made me love it more.

Unfortunately, I still have limitations, although I'm working on them. I can't do: heavy amber; iris; or any powdery or vanilla note other than the slightest touch.

So, wise people, what should I try next?
Reply
Reply

Features on Basenotes

Basenotes Reader Awards 2013 - Finalists Announced.
Greatest Hits: Annick Menardo
Petals Falling From The Sky - A Report From The Cote d'Azur's Bataille De Fleurs
post #2 of 31
8/7/08 at 3:18pm
Roses...

Hmmm maybe Domenico Caraceni is a bit on the male side - and dry, but to me it is all about roses and tobacco.

Un Rose by Frederic Malle and Sa Majeste la Rose by Serge Lutens are both true-to-the-flower roses. Not very sweet and so really beautiful! To me pretty unisex.

My favorite rose scent is Dark Rose by Czech & Speake but it is really hard to get. A bit soapy and a little "ashy".

For another, different take on roses, try Rose Poivree by The different Company. Roses with dirty twist (and not mud dirt). Also true to flower, not so sweet but very animalic.
Reply
Reply
post #3 of 31
8/7/08 at 4:05pm
Hey Puss'cat - difficult to be someone else's nose smelling someone else's skin - even with your excellent qualifications...

Here's what my nose likes on my skin:

Leather - SL Cuir Mauresque - well oiled saddle leather, a bit of raunch.

Roses - the classic: La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty - a little difficult to come by. Close second: Bulgari Rose Essentielle.

Pipe Tobacco - Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille - I know, I know - you're not crazy about vanilla. But there's not that much of it and it's classy-creamy and it comes off eggsackly like your cherished Uncle's unlit meerschaum!!
Reply
Reply
post #4 of 31
8/7/08 at 10:06pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Pelle and Taolady. Some excellent suggestions to add to my growing "to try" list.

Taolady, you have a good point about differences in noses and skins. (On a tangent, I understand some scientists claim individual chemistry doesn't make a difference, but I also know that can't be right. I have a friend who is my evil scent twin chemically. If it smells good on me, it's horrible on her, and vice versa. We've even sprayed at the same time, and there's a noticeable difference.) That being said, I figure that if those smell good on and to you, there's at least a chance they'll smell good on me, and it's as good as any reason to focus on those. (Without direction, I tend to get distracted very easily in the wonderful world of fragrances. )

Oh, and I must get my hands on the Tobacco-Vanille immediately (your description makes me purr).
Reply
Reply
post #5 of 31
8/7/08 at 10:14pm
Ava Luxe Kretek and Venezia are great tobacco scents. Venezia has tobacco and rose.
Reply
Reply
post #6 of 31
8/7/08 at 10:35pm
Hey BlackCat! Let me second Rose Poivree. Don't let the dirty thing throw you - it's very pleasant. Supposedly it used to be dirtier, but the samples now are very easy to like. My wife's fave is YSL Paris - a very classic rose (but, yeah, not exactly youthful), and she also thinks that Creed's rose scent (Fleur de The Rose Bulgare) is the most authentic she ever smelled. I also don't get enough leather from Kelly Caleche. Burberry London (men's) has a great tobacco note. My wife liked it when we tested it for me in the store. But I'm also in the market for Tobacco-Vanille. I'm interested if you find a really nice leather of any kind.

Glad your scent explorations are progressing so rapidly!!!
Reply
Reply
post #7 of 31
8/8/08 at 12:55am
Hi BlackCat! I love both Une Rose and Rose Poivree - both beautiful and on my "want a whole bottle" list. If you want to try an amazingly fresh, true-to-life rose soliflore, I also recommend Sonoma Scent Studio's Velvet Rose.

Don't know much about leather and tobacco yet, so I will be reading this thread eagerly.
Reply
Reply
post #8 of 31
8/8/08 at 5:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackCat View Post


1)...a full-blown dark red rose with just the right balance of sweetness.

Rose Poivrée is in my top five, slightly sweet peppery roses and the most well blended civet note ever. Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit wears like a leather chypre with a dash of rose. Miller Harris Rose en Noir is worth testing as well. Additional reading: http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=204632

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackCat View Post

2) I'd love a leather jacket smell.

Tom Ford Tuscan Leather.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackCat View Post

3) Pipe tobacco, preferably unburned.

Without a doubt, Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille. The vanilla is woody, not powdery. Michael Kors Men has an excellent tobacco note as does Parfum d'Empire Fougere Bengale. There are many tobacco scents but for the most realistic pipe tobacco I select Tobacco Vanille. Additional reading:
http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=213663
http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=201714
Reply
Reply
post #9 of 31
8/8/08 at 5:54am
I LUV leather notes. My favorite is Chanel Cuir de Russie, but Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman smells more like a "true" leather to me. Both are wonderful scents. The ones you mentioned in your first post have really subtle leather notes, so it's not surprising you weren't satisfied with them. Do a board search here and you will probably find lots of leather threads -- most in the men's forum but leathers tend to be unisex anyway. Tom Ford Tuscan Leather is also a true leather but didn't appeal to me personally--it reminded me of leather upholstery, complete with stain-proof coating.

For a tobacco smell, I like Etat Libre d'Orange Jasmin et Cigarette. Miller Harris has a nice tobacco, and for something that's more light and summery, Santa Maria Novella Tobacco Toscano is nice. You could also try SL Fumerie Turque--I think that's more of a pipe tobacco.

I won't even get into rose -- there are so many!
Reply
Reply
post #10 of 31
8/8/08 at 7:14am
I second Cuir Ottoman as a rich, rich leather, wonderful to wear. A second choice, lovely in summer is Diorella, lemon and leather.

I love the new Ava Luxe, Rosa de la Luz. It is well worth a try.

Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille. Yes. I good choice.
Reply
Reply
post #11 of 31
8/8/08 at 8:41am
Leather: SL's Daim Blond. (apricot suede)

Tobacco: Idole de Lubin has a nice tobacco note, plus lots of other yummy stuff.

Rose: you could try Parfums MDCI's Rose de Siwa, but it may be too sweet for you. I tend to think of it as "Stella for grownups." A little more sophisticated.
Reply
Reply
post #12 of 31
8/8/08 at 8:55am
Leather: Chergui
Rose: Ungaro III
Pipe Tobbaco: Cuir d'Arabie
Reply
Reply
post #13 of 31
8/8/08 at 8:59am
Roses: Comme De Garcons Series 2 Rose
Leather: Parfum D'Empire Cuir Ottoman
Pipe Tobacco: Bogart Pour Homme
Reply
Reply
post #14 of 31
8/8/08 at 9:04am
Rose--Nahema. In parfum form preferably. (Kind of surprised it hasn't been mentioned yet, but I'm a real Nahema fan so it's always on the brain!)

Leather--Still working with this one, but Daim Blond for more of a sueded soft, apricot leather; Jolie Madame for a stronger one. There's always Bandit but the amber doesn't work on me personally, but if it did it's really amazing. I've heard wonderful things about Cuir Mauresque (harder to come by in the US, but by decant it can be found).

Pipe tobacco--I also agree that Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille is true to the scent of unlit pipe tobacco without toooooo much vanilla. I've just tried it and it's lovely.

I'll also be watching this thread for good leather recommendations...

Reply
Reply
post #15 of 31
8/8/08 at 9:19am
Rose: No. 88 by Czech & Speake
Leather: Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford
Pipe Tobacco: Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford or Spiriteuse Double Vanille by Guerlain
Reply
Reply
post #16 of 31
8/8/08 at 5:29pm
My favorite pipe tobacco scent is Ginestet Botrytis. It smells exactly like my granddaddy's pipe tobacco, if it was dipped in honey. Absolutely heavenly to me. Warm, comforting, complex and just wonderful. Can't get enough of it.
Reply
Reply
post #17 of 31
8/8/08 at 6:16pm
Rose: Black Aoud by Montale or A*Maze by POTL
Leather: Tuscan Leather by TF
Pipe Tobacco: Tobacco Vanille by TF
Reply
Reply
post #18 of 31
8/9/08 at 9:01pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks, everyone--great suggestions. And I'm getting the idea that Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille might be the one to try for pipe tobacco!

Aussiemama, I've been dying to try Botrytis. I love Sauternes, and I was figuring they might be a reference point. Sauternes plus pipe tobacco. . . mmmmmm, sounds great.

I'm sampling Rose Poivree tonight. I like my frags a bit "dirty," so it may be right up my alley. I'll report back later with how it went.
Reply
Reply
post #19 of 31
8/9/08 at 10:09pm
Hi again,
If you're checking out Botrytis, you might consider giving Frapin 1270 a go too. It's dryer with woods, but also has a wee bit of a pipe tobacco feel to it. Botrytis is very sweet--lovely too, though.

Also, Cuir d'Arabie from Montale is a leather scent too--once you get through the initial sharpness it dries down to a very realistic leather.
Reply
Reply
post #20 of 31
8/10/08 at 3:29am
Well I'm getting plenty to add to my 'must smell' list too.

Can I add Tabac Blonde to the list of recommendations?
I know it got hammered in The Guide but I still love it for its leather and flowers with a whiff of tobacco. In parfum it's absolutely beautiful but my edt is lovely too.

And I know you said you weren't up for heavy ambers yet Blackcat but if and when you are, you should try Ambre Narguile from Hermes. It's a sumptuously rich, dried fruit honeyed tobacco. Delicious in cold weather.
Reply
Reply
post #21 of 31
8/10/08 at 5:26am
For rose, try (just for laughs) Paris by YSL It's a completely full-on rose with a nice supporting cast for company. If you try to divorce your mind from the era it's from and just sniff it; I hope you'll see the quality of the rose composition in there. I used to wear it religiously back in the day (wouldn't wear it now because of the memories, but it deserves some recognition when roses are mentioned, I feel).

For pipe tobacco, I'm a little stumped...I wanted to find a fragrance that accurately captures the smell of dry vanilla pipe tobacco too! It's totally one of my favourite childhood smells.

Unfortunately, Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille felt like the smell of wet, almost decomposing tobacco with a bourbon-like alcoholic vanilla note. I found it quite stomach-turning.

Whereas Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac was a surprising, woody, smoky tobacco-y find - quite a good blend, if not specifically PIPE tobacco!

And I second Caron's Tabac Blond. Yes, it used to be exquisite, now it's just "very good", but that's the thing - it is still very good. (Again, not a pipe tobacco though; a lovely dry tobacco scent).
Reply
Reply
post #22 of 31
8/10/08 at 6:21am
Rose WITH tobacco ?
OK- Fifi Chachnil has both.
Gorgeous.

Gotham- rose/ leather/ incense

I Profumi di Firenze's Tabacco- rose and tobacco.

[I took you literally, honey ]
Reply
Reply
post #23 of 31
8/10/08 at 6:49am
Ava Luxe's FILM NOIR for leather
YSL's CINEMA edp for tobacco
and for rose Caron's ROSE
Reply
Reply
post #24 of 31
8/10/08 at 8:10am
Oh, I forgot: a good 'straight' rose is Yves Rocher's Secrets d' Essences Rose Absolu. Also fantastic is the fact that it comes complete with supporting products such as deodorant, body lotion and shower gel: excellent for amping up the rose element in a fragrance.

Funnily enough I smelled pipe tobacco this week and thought how lovely it was and how much I like the tobacco note in perfume. Combine it with leather and roses and you've got... oooh, I don't know what, but I like it!!!!
Reply
Reply
post #25 of 31
8/10/08 at 12:38pm
Sounds like I REALLY need to sample Tobacco Vanille ...

For leathers, I like: Bandit, Cuir Mauresque, Cuir Ottoman, Paco Rabanne La Nuit (there's roses in that too), Chanel Cuir de Russie, Tabac Blond, and Derby.

For tabacco, I like: Chergui, Michael for Men, Fumerie Turque, and Habanita (although some complain about a hefty dose of powder, you probably wouldn't like that), SMN Tobacco Tuscano.
Reply
Reply
post #26 of 31
8/10/08 at 6:04pm
Thread Starter 
Wordbird and Chaya, perhaps we've designed a new fragrance here - or at least a new fragrance brief! I originally thought of the three notes separately, but you're right, the three mixed together could be incredible. Chaya, thanks for the "two-fers"!

Nukapai, I've been meaning to try Paris for awhile. I wasn't into frags in the 1980s, so hopefully, it will smell new to me. Although probably not--my guess is that I smelled it a lot on others without knowing what it was.

O.K., so I tried Rose Poivree. Very interesting. I think I might try spraying it rather than dabbing. It was rather faint on me. I got lots of pepper up front, and the rose took awhile to come out, and even then, it was a bit peppery and dusty. Until I exhaled onto my arm, when I got back a perfect, full, beautiful red rose. Now how come it took breathing on the frag to produce it? Blowing on your arm as you sniff it sure adds an awkward element to the Basenotes salute! I got just a hint of the animalistic "dirty" note--I really liked that aspect.

I'd love to hear other impressions about the frags mentioned in this thread from people testing them for the first time.
Reply
Reply
post #27 of 31
8/10/08 at 6:11pm
Demeter Pipe Tobacco

for a cheaper alternative, but I've never tried it.....
Reply
Reply
post #28 of 31
8/10/08 at 8:46pm
Great recommendations....a lot I need to try.

I can recommend:

Rose: Lutens Rose de Nuit and Goutal Rose Absolue (rose fragrances are tricky, though)
Leather: Cuir de Russie
Tobacco: Chergui
Reply
Reply
post #29 of 31
8/11/08 at 1:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackCat View Post


Nukapai, I've been meaning to try Paris for awhile. I wasn't into frags in the 1980s, so hopefully, it will smell new to me. Although probably not--my guess is that I smelled it a lot on others without knowing what it was.

You're probably spot on with that - many of us wore it in the 80s

Nevertheless, it's a lovely, good rose - so do give it a sniff
Reply
Reply
post #30 of 31
8/11/08 at 6:16am
I've thought some more.
More roses: Gres cabaret for salty rose - odd but very good.
Jo Malone Red Roses - gets a lot of love from the slebs; I like Tesco's super-cheap knock off. (Tesco is a British supermarket)
For a cheapish thrill try Crazy Libellule and the Poppies Divine Alcoves Amoreuse/In Love. It's a solid stick and the fragrances there are excellent. (If you are desperate to spend some money on the website to get free shipping, I can also recommend the peach and sandalwood Dans Tes Bras/In Your Arms and I know that the Encens Mystic from the Shanghaijava collection also gets a lot of good reviews here.)

For tobacco, try to get hold of a sample of Ava Luxe's Shisha. It's a good replication of the rich apple tobacco smoked in shisha/hookah pipes.
Reply
Reply
post #31 of 31
10/15/08 at 6:35am
  • Nlb
  • offline
  • Gender:
Two strong choices that actually include all of those elements:

1. "Eau Suave" by Parfums d'Empire (although, there is a hint of soap to it, which may be "grandma's soap" accord !)
2. "AMaze" by People of the Labyrinths.
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Female Fragrance Discussion

Features on Basenotes

Basenotes Reader Awards 2013 - Finalists Announced.
Greatest Hits: Annick Menardo
Petals Falling From The Sky - A Report From The Cote d'Azur's Bataille De Fleurs
Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Female Fragrance Discussion › Help me pick rose/pipe tobacco/leather frags?