Nice review Mike! And Helg too!
Ooh I just got this a couple of days ago. The first time or two I tried it, it was just a loud, brash, potpourri.
Ironically, my perception of it has changed in that I see it as something very smooth. It's full of cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon. All dark and dry spices, leaning towards the bitter with uncharacteristically very little sweets, though to start off there's some honey and a little musk keeping it warm and soft.
Those are the first to go, leaving a suprisingly light veil of spices.
I'm shocked at how poor the longevity of this is - or at least how fast my nose forgets it! I have to test to see if others can smell it. I suspect it's more impressive in warmer weather, though it very much smells like fall.
I find that often the haute concentration perfumes in the Lutens line are some of the softest amd shortest lived. I guess the high concentration is just to keep them alive!
This is definitely try before you buy as the bitterness, barky and pungent character of some of the spices are sure to put off some.
I'd give it a five stars, but the longevity is really frustrating.