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A Rose is a Rose is a Cabaret, by Gres.

post #1 of 30
Thread Starter 
Last year while foraging through the women's side of my favorite designer perfume shop, 42 Street perfumes, I discovered Gres' Cabaret.
I'm always on the look-out for a good, masculine rose. I believe I've found my favorite. Peppery rose over sandalwood. Nothing goth going on, thank god.
As usual, I felt like a geek about liking it as it is rarely discussed here. Well, to my surprise, Luca Turin likes it too, and who couldn't use a little validation.

"Cabaret (Grès) ★★★★ woody rose $$
Divine surprise! I was not aware of the existence of
this fragrance, despite it having been around since
2003. Given Cabaret’s fugly bottle and Grès’s
recent Marlene Dietrich series, I was ready for the
worst. Ten seconds after putting it on a strip, I was
smiling beatifically, for this brilliant Michel
Almairac composition turns out to be a landmark,
among the earliest of the recent slew of
transparent woody roses and one of the best.
Looking back over the years, as TS points out, it
all started with Almairac’s Voleur de Roses for
L’Artisan Parfumeur (1993), which smelled great
but did not quite work. Cabaret’s combination of
pink pepper and incense up top makes it
wonderfully fresh, while a clean rosewater note
and huge musk gives it a down-pillow softness
that makes you want to go back every hour and
spray some more. Makes a superb masculine. LT "
Luca Turin. September '08 supplement to The Guide.
post #2 of 30
I've always loved this one... it being a gal pal's signature scent.
At our biweekly cribbage fests, I dab a touch to my wrists on the DL. It is relatively inexpensive also, no?
post #3 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oaksbluff View Post

I've always loved this one... it being a gal pal's signature scent.
At our biweekly cribbage fests, I dab a touch to my wrists on the DL. It is relatively inexpensive also, no?

I actually bought it online. 50 ml. for less than $20. I agree with Turin, the bottle is truly horrendous - think I Dream of Jeannie.
post #4 of 30
I read that too and went to the basement the next day and through a couple of cardbooard boxes - and there it was: a set with a nice red spray thing for a ladies handbag, and two refills of perhaps 20ml ea. Smells harmless and pleasant - is that all? I may be the only who 'understands' Tommy Girl and Beyond Paradise, but this ?? I might just as well follow Burr's advice and wear D&G Blue (woman).
post #5 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by narcus View Post

I read that too and went to the basement the next day and through a couple of cardbooard boxes - and there it was: a set with a nice red spray thing for a ladies handbag, and two refills of perhaps 20ml ea. Smells harmless and pleasant - is that all? I believe to 'understand' Tommy Girl and Beyond Paradise, but this?? I might just as well follow Burr's advice and wear D&G Blue (woman).

He gave it four stars, not five. Rose is always presented in such a dire way in men's fragrances. I like my rose light and transparent. I think of Cabaret as a rose-themed, eau de cologne; perhaps with a little more tenacity. I find it refreshing and well balanced.
post #6 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

He gave it four stars, not five. Rose is always presented in such a dire way in men's fragrances. I like my rose light and transparent. I think of Cabaret as a rose-themed, eau de cologne; perhaps with a little more tenacity. I find it refreshing and well balanced.

Putting my 2 cents here on the guy's side...

Ruggles, I agree it is a transparent rose and can absolutely see it as a masculine fragrance as well. There is a warmth and musky-sexiness to it, I find. I was pleased to see Turin's rating, as I think it is often a forgotten fragrance. They make a masculine Cabaret as well, and it's funny because just last night I wondered about it (for husband) since the woman's is so good. Maybe I'll just hand him my (tacky) bottle!
post #7 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

He gave it four stars, not five. Rose is always presented in such a dire way in men's fragrances. I like my rose light and transparent. I think of Cabaret as a rose-themed, eau de cologne; perhaps with a little more tenacity. I find it refreshing and well balanced.

Would you compare it to Rose Water by Santa Maria Novella? Which, to me, is a 'rose-themed eau de cologne'.
post #8 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Would you compare it to Rose Water by Santa Maria Novella? Which, to me, is a 'rose-themed eau de cologne'.

I've never smelled the SMN; now I have to. Thanks.
post #9 of 30
I recall liking the men's Cabaret but never tried the womens.' I dislike florals of any sort (on me or on others) but have been surprised by the mighty rose. Currently I find Parfums Rosine makes a sublime masculine rose scent, Twill Rose, that oozes class and sophistication.

Cheers,
Al
post #10 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

He gave it four stars, not five. Rose is always presented in such a dire way in men's fragrances. I like my rose light and transparent. I think of Cabaret as a rose-themed, eau de cologne; perhaps with a little more tenacity. I find it refreshing and well balanced.

Who said five? Ever tried Paris ? Although she calls it roaring rose Tania S gave that one four stars, and I agree: three plus one* for tenacity and for being (borderline) masculine (for guys who insist) .
post #11 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by narcus View Post

Who said five? Ever tried Paris ? Although she calls it roaring rose Tania S gave that one four stars, and I agree: three plus one* for tenacity and for being (borderline) masculine (for guys who insist) .

It's the War of the Roses!
post #12 of 30
Well done Ruggles
Its good to hear someone bring this one up in a thread .
It sells for under $20 online for a large bottle .
How does it compare to Ungaro III or Iquitos , in the sillage & longevity facets ?
As these two are the only rose heavy frags I reallly know well .
post #13 of 30
Ruggles !!
But, Looking at it in context: TS gave Voleur dR two* and I better not comment that at all.
It would be harder to argue against LT's more generous 4* granted to Fléchiers Une Rose,
but can anybody seriously think UR and Cabaret **** are in the same class of perfumes? Even
Rose Poivrée*** is better than Cabaret, me thinks. Only the price speaks for the latter.
post #14 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by narcus View Post

Ruggles !!
BOT, Looking at it in context: TS gave Voleur dR two* and I better not comment that at all.
It would be harder to argue against LT's more generous 4* granted to Fléchiers Une Rose,
but can anybody seriously think UR and Cabaret **** are in the same class of perfumes? Even
Rose Poivrée*** is better than Cabaret, me thinks. Only the price speaks for the latter.

My point is, I find Cabaret well made, balanced and affordable. I like Cabaret and so does Turin. I felt like a geek for liking it and championing it, but now I'm feeling some validation. I am not comparing it to any specific scent and I'm not interested in tearing Turin and Sanchez down - I did that before, to a certain extent, which I now feel a bit silly about.

In response to Dimitrios, the longevity is good, 5 hours + the sillage is about average. To my knowledge Cabaret doesn't have any aldehydes in it, so it shares very little with Iquitos. I've never smelled Ungaro III. I'd say Cabaret feels like something either Commes des Garcon or L'Artisan could have done.
post #15 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

In response to Dimitrios, the longevity is good, 5 hours + the sillage is about average. To my knowledge Cabaret doesn't have any aldehydes in it, so it shares very little with Iquitos. I've never smelled Ungaro III. I'd say Cabaret feels like something either Commes des Garcon or L'Artisan could have done.

I have never smelled Cabaret or Iquitos, but I have smelled Ungaro III and it is aldehyde prominent, to my nose.
post #16 of 30
Cabaret is great frag for men and women too. Was there any frag for men similar to Cabaret in 80-ties ? I frequently smelt somethitng close to Cabaret in Eastern Europe in 80-ties on men and it was amazing.
post #17 of 30
Popping in (with Lushsoup) from over in the girls corner...

I think Cabaret would make a smashing guys' rose! The bottle does look "I Dream of Jeannie-ish"! It has a somewhat dry character that I appreciate on a man. Another one I enjoy (on both) is Stella McCartney's Rose Absolute Intense. (It's not listed in the basenotes directory ) This is the only frag by Stella worth wearing IMO. Quarry is the one who got me started on it, and I believe her DH wears it!
post #18 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

...I like my rose light and transparent. I think of Cabaret as a rose-themed, eau de cologne; perhaps with a little more tenacity. I find it refreshing and well balanced.

I'm glad this thread was bumped, as I didn't see it before. I agree with Ruggles' comments above, and I'd add that there is a salty character to this fragrance that I love. I'm with others - this is a fragrance that could work well on men as well as women!
post #19 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by noodles View Post

Was there any frag for men similar to Cabaret in 80-ties ? I frequently smelt somethitng close to Cabaret in Eastern Europe in 80-ties on men and it was amazing.

Well, have you sampled Iquitos (1987) yet ? Iquitos certainly tried its best to not only challenge Kouros' (1981) and Antaeus' (1981)strength, but even kill them sillage-wise. There wasn't anything else in rose until 1990 when Égoïste joined the competion. The original Égoïste for men was certainly a proud floral too! Now it's just a boring fragrance for softies, whereas Iquitos at least reminds me of a top class woman impersonator.
post #20 of 30
I have a decant of the EDP of this one and like it too.

]I've searched the online perfume stores for an EDP version but have come up empty. The few I have found are quite expensive.

Anyone know of a good source for the EDP as opposed to the EDT?
post #21 of 30
Since I posted above, I have smelled Cabaret and thought it was very interesting.

I remember it as a poor-man's Rose 31. Of course, that's a sweeping generalization - but somehow if you removed most of the cumin and toned down the snankaliciousness of R31, you'd be left with the better behaved Cabaret.

Not a bad thing, but also nothing that is FBW for me right now. I already have a handful of 'good guy' rose scents in my wardrobe (Pruning Shears) and To Get List (vintage No. 88, Nahema, etc..)
post #22 of 30
I happen to have sampled (and reviewed) Cabaret recently, and was also positively impressed. I'd have no trouble wearing it as a man: it's a drier, more transparent rose than most of the heavy hitters from the 80s, and to my way of thinking its woody foundation is pretty gender neutral. It's also lighter and less potentially lugubrious than some of the big masculine rose scents like No. 88, Rive Gauche pour Homme, Lyric Man, and the Montale ouds.
post #23 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butthead53 View Post

I have a decant of the EDP of this one and like it too.

]I've searched the online perfume stores for an EDP version but have come up empty. The few I have found are quite expensive.

Anyone know of a good source for the EDP as opposed to the EDT?

I thought Cabaret (the women's version) only came in EDP. Is that not correct? It can be found in many online stores for $20 per bottle or less.
post #24 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vibert View Post

I happen to have sampled (and reviewed) Cabaret recently, and was also positively impressed. I'd have no trouble wearing it as a man: it's a drier, more transparent rose than most of the heavy hitters from the 80s, and to my way of thinking its woody foundation is pretty gender neutral. It's also lighter and less potentially lugubrious than some of the big masculine rose scents like No. 88, Rive Gauche pour Homme, Lyric Man, and the Montale ouds.

Thanks for the word about Cabaret. I've nearly snagged it a couple times on ebay.
Vibert, would you please say a word about where to smell for the rose in RGpH. You've written this before and I completely trust you but I can't seem to locate it. Am I looking perchance for something as dry-herbaceous as the rose in, say, Black Aoud? If that comparison makes sense to you then maybe I've got it.
post #25 of 30
I have been using Cabaret for some time and found it to be another one of those sleeper fragrances that is well made and yet very inexpensive as well. If only the bottle could be redesigned.
post #26 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post

Vibert, would you please say a word about where to smell for the rose in RGpH. You've written this before and I completely trust you but I can't seem to locate it. Am I looking perchance for something as dry-herbaceous as the rose in, say, Black Aoud? If that comparison makes sense to you then maybe I've got it.

You read my mind Strollyourlobster, I wanted to ask Vibert the same question.
post #27 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post

Thanks for the word about Cabaret. I've nearly snagged it a couple times on ebay.
Vibert, would you please say a word about where to smell for the rose in RGpH. You've written this before and I completely trust you but I can't seem to locate it. Am I looking perchance for something as dry-herbaceous as the rose in, say, Black Aoud? If that comparison makes sense to you then maybe I've got it.

The rose is front-and-center to my nose, acting as the principal structural member from about ten or fifteen minutes after application. It is a dry, woody rose, and yes, there is a parallel with Black Aoud (and No. 88), though Cabaret's rose is considerably lighter and quieter. It is most certainly not "floral" (or florid) in the traditional sense.

Hope that helps!
post #28 of 30
I sampled it but found that it gets boring fairly quickly. My top pick for a great cheapo non-gothic rose is Chopard Natural Black. It has excellent dynamism, doesn't smell synthetic, and is well balanced.
post #29 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post

I thought Cabaret (the women's version) only came in EDP. Is that not correct? It can be found in many online stores for $20 per bottle or less.

My bad.

I was thinking of Gres Cabochard.
post #30 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by narcus View Post

Well, have you sampled Iquitos (1987) yet ? Iquitos certainly tried its best to not only challenge Kouros' (1981) and Antaeus' (1981)strength, but even kill them sillage-wise. There wasn't anything else in rose until 1990 when Égoïste joined the competion. The original Égoïste for men was certainly a proud floral too! Now it's just a boring fragrance for softies, whereas Iquitos at least reminds me of a top class woman impersonator.

Thanks for your answer. I have to try Iquitos.
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