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Carthusia - Numero Uno (from a sample)

post #1 of 15
9/3/08 at 12:53pm
Thread Starter 
I was very eager to see what Carthusia was all about after reading thru interesting quotes in Blogs and the constant praise and admiration this House has. It didnt disappoint...however, it didnt smell unique..in other words, i was familiar with the accords in it and it reminded me of few scents it must have been possibly inspired from...

Numero Uno opens with a very boozy accord, in a very nail polish remover kind of way...this accord very soon progresses to a very tart, bright, citrus notes... the effect of Orange peel is very very similar to YSL Live Jazz with a healthy dose of Lavender..its some where in transition from Top to Mid notes that it Uses Thyme in a powdery, copperish way that we are so used to and done in a elegant way in one other scent. The scent that im refering too is PDN New York. Numero Uno relies heavily on this Herbal accord which was so well crafted by PDN in her Masterpiece New York...the mid notes is merely a combination of YSL Live Jazz and PDN New York, not as spicy and balanced as NY though...

somewhere in the base, the accords get very crowded and it almost a colossal display and disturbing collage of animalic notes on a base of mushy green vetiver and incense. somehow, it's very raw and real.. seems out of place..maybe it was intented to be raw in it's approach..but again, for someone who has YSL LJ and PDN New York..it'll be hard to ignore the similarities...at the same time, Fans of the same would rever this scent with same passion.

Does anyone else see the NY comparison...?
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post #2 of 15
9/3/08 at 1:08pm
Don't know about Numero Uno.

I will say that Carthusia Uomo is a very nice scent that I purchased about 6 weeks ago. High-class stuff that is very virile. My wife digs it on me. It's like taking an aquatic and injecting an 80's power vibe into it.

That said, it takes 10-12 sprays to get any projection.
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post #3 of 15
9/3/08 at 1:11pm
Thread Starter 
i know of one more member on BN who swears by Carthusia UoMo i think the whole of BN knows him. i'm so eager to try tht one out, i tell you..
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post #4 of 15
9/3/08 at 1:23pm
I do find similarities, but like you, I find Numero Uno much cruder. It's very wet whereas New York is quite dry. Don't get me wrong I love NU, it just doesn't do the finesse thing like the sublime NY.
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post #5 of 15
9/3/08 at 2:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jenson View Post

i know of one more member on BNer who swears by Carthusia UoMo i think the whole of BN knows him. i'm so eager to try tht one out, i tell you..

Who could this mystery man be, Jenson???
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post #6 of 15
9/3/08 at 2:39pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post

Who could this mystery man be, Jenson???

ahh, the mystery man himself.
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post #7 of 15
9/3/08 at 2:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jenson View Post

ahh, the mystery man himself.

Oh, MOI?
Yeah I knew he must be hot as well as intelligent

Indeed, I MUCH prefer the Uomo over the Numero Uno. You should definitely give it a try Jenson.
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post #8 of 15
9/3/08 at 3:08pm
I received a generous sample of this scent from a fellow basenoter. I thought it was divine. It is very clean and pure expression of the chypre genre I think. I think NU is aptly compared to the original Chanel pour Monsieur. I like it! They share many similarities.
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post #9 of 15
9/3/08 at 3:17pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post

I received a generous sample of this scent from a fellow basenoter. I thought it was divine. It is very clean and pure expression of the chypre genre I think. I think NU is aptly compared to the original Chanel pour Monsieur. I like it! They share many similarities.

somehow, the similarities between PDN NY and Chanel PM is not the herbal one but somethign else..cant put my finger on it...but, the Similarities between PDN NY and NU is the Herbal one.....is Thyme the link between NY and NU....? what is that note in PM which actually defines the overall smell of it on a broader perspective...? it smells very clean and tranparent in PM and the very same set of notes hides in PDN NY (initially) behind this wall of powdery, coppery herbal note (which i presume is Thyme and is present in the same fashion in NU as well)...mrclmind- im sure you could help me out on this one...
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post #10 of 15
9/3/08 at 3:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckW View Post

Don't know about Numero Uno.

I will say that Carthusia Uomo is a very nice scent that I purchased about 6 weeks ago. High-class stuff that is very virile. My wife digs it on me. It's like taking an aquatic and injecting an 80's power vibe into it.

That said, it takes 10-12 sprays to get any projection.

This is probably because Numero Uno is an Eau de Parfum and Uomo is an Eau de Toilette.

jenson - did you spray this sample on, or dab it from a sample. I think NU is way more masculine than New York, or Pour Monsieur, for that matter. It's one of the few fragrances I own a full bottle of, that smells like it has a hairy chest. Seriously, it's my favorite chypre, right after Mitsuoko.
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post #11 of 15
9/3/08 at 3:44pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

This is probably because Numero Uno is an Eau de Parfum and Uomo is an Eau de Toilette.

jenson - did you spray this sample on, or dab it from a sample. I think NU is way more masculine than New York, or Pour Monsieur, for that matter. It's one of the few fragrances I own a full bottle of, that smells like it has a hairy chest. Seriously, it's my favorite chypre, right after Mitsuoko.


I did Spray from an Original Carded Sample. and yes, it's way stronger that NY and PM, no doubt on that. on the strength scale NU>NY>PM.

btw, i loved it till midnotes..after that it all got too much for me...it was like a bottle of it broke right under my nose...very strong, without any borders a scent so intense, one coudl taste it. but again, im sure it was meant to be that way, to be enjoyed that way...just my intial impressions u know ...for someone who has tasted the refined NY and PM, this was downright rowdy.
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post #12 of 15
9/3/08 at 3:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jenson View Post

somehow, the similarities between PDN NY and Chanel PM is not the herbal one but somethign else..cant put my finger on it...but, the Similarities between PDN NY and NU is the Herbal one.....is Thyme the link between NY and NU....? what is that note in PM which actually defines the overall smell of it on a broader perspective...? it smells very clean and tranparent in PM and the very same set of notes hides in PDN NY (initially) behind this wall of powdery, coppery herbal note (which i presume is Thyme and is present in the same fashion in NU as well)...mrclmind- im sure you could help me out on this one...

I believe the note they all share is Oak Moss.
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post #13 of 15
9/3/08 at 3:51pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post

I believe the note they all share is Oak Moss.


hmm...and im thinkin if its the use of (Kitchen) spices in NY and PM that links them...thnx for the input Ruggles....
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post #14 of 15
9/3/08 at 10:46pm
Nice review buds

The only Carthusia I've sampled is Mediterraneo and I liked it.
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post #15 of 15
9/3/08 at 11:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jenson View Post

somehow, the similarities between PDN NY and Chanel PM is not the herbal one but somethign else..cant put my finger on it...but, the Similarities between PDN NY and NU is the Herbal one.....is Thyme the link between NY and NU....? what is that note in PM which actually defines the overall smell of it on a broader perspective...? it smells very clean and tranparent in PM and the very same set of notes hides in PDN NY (initially) behind this wall of powdery, coppery herbal note (which i presume is Thyme and is present in the same fashion in NU as well)...mrclmind- im sure you could help me out on this one...

The thing that really sets PM apart IMO is the absence of bergamot from the top notes. This was kind of a departure in its day. The chypre accord is handled instead with lemon, petitgrain and sweet orange blossom creating the top notes and an oak moss base wherein the patchouli has been replaced with vetiver. The top and bottom have the chypre dance going on within 5 minutes of development. There is some slight spice in the center that is listed in basenotes as cardomon; The lemon/petitgrain/neroli top and vetiver bottom is what gives it what you describe as transparency IMO.

I still don't see much relation with PM and NY, but I do with NY and PMC. NU has floral and herbal elements missing in PM but in regards to scent family NU and PM are siblings IMO. In the more complex oriental genre, NY and PMC share much more.
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