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Perfumes of The East III: Top Quality Agarwood Oil

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
Dear friends, today I received another batch of attars from India. This time, I received a bottle of the very best Grade A Agarwood oil. Yes, it is the real thing. So I decided to write down a review as soon as possible. I wore it only once, so my judgment might change a little bit after I become familiar with the attar. But I do believe that this first impression is accurate. So here is my review of the agarwood oil:

Comparing the grade A Oud to the grade C Oud that received previously, I noticed that this time there are absolutely no medicinal topnotes. They completely disappeared. The perfume begins with a blast of Horse Stable instead of just Horse Saddle. Yes, it is sharp wood, horse saddle and horse manure, all together in a very dry combination. The perfume evolves a little bit, and after an hour or so it becomes woodier and less sharp. It reminded me of the smell of a sawmill, however it is a darker smell and still animalic. I had another perfume that smelled like a sawmill, called Equus, by Lalique. But Equus is so much lighter and not animalic at all. It is this sharp, dark animalic character that distinguishes agarwood from the other woods.

I can assure you guys, there is nothing more masculine, more rustic than this attar. This is how a real cowboy smells like after spending a day in his ranch, taking care of his horses. This is for men only: it is the essence of the man who lives near nature; a savage and natural perfume. If you are American and ever had a crush, or just admiration for John Wayne and Montgomery Clift in "Red River", or even for the "Marlboro man", agarwood will suit you.

All perfume lovers should try this perfume at least once. It is quintessentially exotic and unlike any other fragrance that I had tried before. As I mentioned in my previous review, it is quite difficult to wear it, because western noses are not be prepared for something so powerful. But who cares about conventions when passion rules our hearts?

Lucius
post #2 of 11
Glad to see you back, LV. We missed your inputs and reviews .
As for the Oud - how different are the two - did you compare them on each hand? I would love to smell some horse stable smell myself!!
post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
AK3D, I haven't compared them side by side yet. But that is a great idea. I'll do it tomorrow and post the results here. The thing that really stands out in the grade A oud is that it smells completely natural, without any medicinal notes. I believe it will also be more powerful and long lasting, but I need to run the test to confirm it.

.
post #4 of 11
This stuff sounds really good. I definitely do rustic. My wife will hate me for it, but this could put my Kouros and Yatagan to shame!

I may even have to break out the old jean vest to wear this stuff.
post #5 of 11
Dhenal Ood :

I get a *lot* of Manure, Dust and HAY, yep lots of HAY... like a dusty environment after the stallions have just charged, Kicking up dust and fragments of hay in their wake...

The one I have is incredibly thick, thicker than Honey I'd say. It has a perfectly controlled sillage though, which makes it all the more wearable for me. It rises wonderfully alongwith body heat evenly dissipating the animalic notes all around you. It's very long lasting and dries down to a great smelling smoky leather. It's tenacity and rich compostition also makes it a great candidate for layering, to add a kick to frags that are lacking in that department

I agree with LV above when he says it might be somewhat difficult to wear for some because of its nature. This will definitely be an acquired taste for many, including myself.


Mukhallat Ood :

What a sumptuous blend! definitely an oriental at heart, it runs on 70% Mukhallat and 30% Oud oil. It's one of the sweeter blends I tried with enormous lasting power and sillage, two dabs lasted me all day with enough sillage to please a moderately sized roomfull of people

Tremendously balsamic, it dissipates notes of precious Indian Agarwood, Amber and a good amount of Mysore Sandalwood with added Patchouli and Musc all around the wearer. My nose also detected some slightly floral notes but I had a hard time identifying them as they never really rise above the rest. This is best suited for warm weather.
post #6 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by javagreen View Post

Dhenal Ood :

I get a *lot* of Manure, Dust and HAY, yep lots of HAY... like a dusty environment after the stallions have just charged, Kicking up dust and fragments of hay in their wake...

The one I have is incredibly thick, thicker than Honey I'd say. It has a perfectly controlled sillage though, which makes it all the more wearable for me. It rises wonderfully alongwith body heat evenly dissipating the animalic notes all around you. It's very long lasting and dries down to a great smelling smoky leather. It's tenacity and rich compostition also makes it a great candidate for layering, to add a kick to frags that are lacking in that department

I agree with LV above when he says it might be somewhat difficult to wear for some because of its nature. This will definitely be an acquired taste for many, including myself.


Mukhallat Ood :

What a sumptuous blend! definitely an oriental at heart, it runs on 70% Mukhallat and 30% Oud oil. It's one of the sweeter blends I tried with enormous lasting power and sillage, two dabs lasted me all day with enough sillage to please a moderately sized roomfull of people

Tremendously balsamic, it dissipates notes of precious Indian Agarwood, Amber and a good amount of Mysore Sandalwood with added Patchouli and Musc all around the wearer. My nose also detected some slightly floral notes but I had a hard time identifying them as they never really rise above the rest. This is best suited for warm weather.

I gather these were local products and not the stuff by Al Hamarain or the like?
post #7 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post

I gather these were local products and not the stuff by Al Hamarain or the like?

Local, ofcourse but of Export quality.. some of the same which was sent to Lucius. Al Hamarain too would probably be sourcing the raw materials necessary from similar sources.
post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Folks, my nose was congested today, so I couldn't run the experiment. But I'll do it soon. I will also review some of the other attars.

I had a surprise yesterday. I discovered that one of the attars is almost an exact copy of XS by Paco Rabanne. I never expected that an attar could smell like a fresh, modern western perfume. But it does. It is called Arfat.

.
post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by javagreen View Post

Mukhallat Ood :

What a sumptuous blend! definitely an oriental at heart, it runs on 70% Mukhallat and 30% Oud oil. It's one of the sweeter blends I tried with enormous lasting power and sillage, two dabs lasted me all day with enough sillage to please a moderately sized roomfull of people

There is also a lot of saffron in the opening. I think that is what gives it the sweet 'rounded' aspect. If you get some on your clothes, its going to last even longer!

Quote:
I had a surprise yesterday. I discovered that one of the attars is almost an exact copy of XS by Paco Rabanne. I never expected that an attar could smell like a fresh, modern western perfume. But it does. It is called Arfat.

Arfaat.. Hmm. It came across as floral/woody fragrance with a mildly fresh opening. I couldn't pinpoint the relation to XS, but now that you mention it....
post #10 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AK3D View Post

Arfaat.. Hmm. It came across as floral/woody fragrance with a mildly fresh opening. I couldn't pinpoint the relation to XS, but now that you mention it....

AK3D, it is true, it is only the topnotes that are fresh, and these are the ones that remind me of XS. The middle/base notes are different. XS keeps the fresh notes for a long time, so it is not the same thing...
post #11 of 11
Thread Starter 
Today I tested both agarwood oils. Here's my report: The grade A oil lasts longer, has no medicinal notes, is darker and has the horse stable smell that the grade C oil doesn't have. It also has a kind of balsamic top note, and an ambery basenote that is noticeable behind the "horse stable" and "horse saddle" notes. The grade A oil is much more concentrated...it is very, very dense. But the funny thing is, the grade A oud stays closer to the skin than the grade C oud.

So, this was my experience with the Oud attars. It would be nice if other folks could share their experiences with Agarwood oils from other places.

Lucius

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