All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, October 4, 2008 ★★★ AMBER

Oooh, oooh, ooh! Excited about this! Too many good things to choose from... Ambre Narguile, Ambre Russe, Ambre Sultan...
Yay!
Though with my habit of wearing too much of a good thing and wearing one thing on one wrist and another on the other I pity anyone behind me in the queue at the supermarket on saturday.

On Saturday I think I'll wear one of my most ambery scents,Madame X.

I'm really looking forward to this one because amber is something I haven't yet explored in any depth. I'll be interested in what everybody wears. I once thought I didn't like amber - too strong - but it's a presence in a few of my favorite fragrances, so...I don't know. For last month's gender bender SnS I wore my husband's ambery Obession, which I fell in love with and happily realized that I could pull off. But I'll be looking for something different this time.

Oh nice

I might go with Ambre from L´Occitane which I love, or Ambre Sultan which I didn´t love as much but maybe it´s time to try it again.

Ooh! I'm in too!

This time I'll give Marc Jacobs Amber a good go!
I found this in a store near me a little while ago and think Im loving it.

Top Notes of Crystallised Ginger & Star Anise.
Heart Notes of Amber, Lys and Cassia Bark.
Base Notes of Cashmere Wood & Benzoin

I am in! Now which one - so many good ones to choose from!

Cool- I'm in... 'an I just got a sample of Ambre Sultan to boot! Yeah,baby...YEAH!!!

My very favorite category! Which to wear, which to wear? I love so many ambers, but of course my HG amber is Ambre Russe!

Oct 4 is my wedding anniversary. I think I'll usher in the cooler weather (it's sooo welcome, at last!) with Tabac Blond I bought at the NYC boutique before they closed it. (2005) A fun trip with DH for his art show.

What timing! I'm in the depths of my amber exploration. I think I have 40 samples. Trying to find the elusive amber that contains no vanilla (and no incense).

I'm in! Who knows? I may try sampling them all.

Which may mean lots of to remove those that are . Unless, of course, I get lucky with the first one.

But I'll do it for the of Basenotes.

How do I pick just one?????

I'm with her!!!!

I stopped by the Jo Malone store in the mall last night. It's not selling like hotcakes there anymore because they are sold out and not getting any more! All they have left is a candle!

I'm in!

Word!!

Ahh, Hoos, what we do for love! I want to be where you are right now. I've been planning to begin an amber exploration, too, just haven't been able to get around to it! I LOVE amber and there are soooo many to try.
I'm so excited to read about everyone's wearings. I'll wear the only amber I currently have (and that's a big currently soon to change), it will be Tom Ford Amber Absolute, from a sample.

Amber - oh yeah! I'm in. I just can't decide which one. I have two straight-up amber scents, and a whole lot of amber drydowns. Hmmm. Maybe I'll wear them all! I mean, over the course of the day - not all at once. Indeed - this could be interesting!

OK, I started a little early, and since I wear Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe for the majority of any given nights, here are the notes:

(from luckyscent): tea, incense, vodka, champagne, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, ambergris, vanilla, leather

I must admit, I don't smell champagne. I do get a boozy note, but I can't say it is really vodka, either. It has alot of leather and tea (fermented or cured notes), amber, vanilla, spice and smoke (incensse). I love it, and obviously (since I wear it so often) found it full bottle worthy.

I'll be wearing my favorite amber - Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens

Top notes: Oregano, Bay leaf, Coriander, Myrtle,
Middle notes: Angelica, Patchouli
Base notes: Labdanum, Styrax, Tolu balsam, Benzoin, Sandalwood

I'm in.

This is an easy category for many of us, it seems.

I think I'll mix it up with some favorites (Ambre Sultan) and new ones I haven't tried (Dark Amber & Ginger Lily by Jo Malone, Ambre Precieux by MPG)

Yes, I plan to try some "uncharted amber territory" tomorrow

I've got three vials and a bottle lined up on the counter. Going to take a page from VM I Hate Civet's book and try them on all at once!

I'm going with Youth Dew Amber Nude on one wrist, Ambre Russe on the other. Possibly also Ambre Sultan on the old cleavage. Decided against Ambre Narguile because it is heavily tobaccoed to my nose.
How sad am I that I sat there with Perfumes The Guide last night deciding for and against each candidate?

I'm with you

(I'm sitting on the fence on this one - with envy and wistful glances at your lovely amber scents. I've admired Ambre Sultan for ages, but haven't managed to buy it yet. Have fun on Sniff & Speak day!)

I love 'em all !
But I need 'portable' today-
So, I bathed in YR's Voile D'Ambre gel, then put on Geisha Noire !
[It fits in my pocket at work]

I always feel "annointed" in it; like Ambra Aurea, it makes me feel almost holy.

Poo! Forgot about SnS and have applied Bergamotto Marino.
Will wear my amber as my SotE instead!

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Precieux
Notes: myrtle, lavender, amber, vanilla, nutmeg, ambergris, peru balsam, tolu

I love amber scents, and this delightful fragrance is no exception. The aromatics add a pleasing airiness and "spikiness" to the sweeter, richer notes, give them some breathing room. The result is a skillfully balanced, versatile fragrance that is at once stimulating and soothing. I'd put it at about halfway between Etro Ambra (golden and sweet) and Ambre Sultan (dark, intense). A beautifully composed, high quality scent, typical for this house.

For this months Amber theme i've chosen Ava Luxe's Madame X. the notes are:

Coriander,Acacia,Farnesiana,Freshly cut hay,Jasmine,Rose,Labdanum,leather,Incence,Patchoul i,oakmoss,civet,ambergris,castoreum,sandalwood,mys ore,musk and vanilla.

On me the scent opens with a very buttery and oily smell.It's quite spicy too.Gradually the amber takes over with a touch of patchouli and maybe some incence.As the scents dries down it develops into a more animalic smell and a gorgeous leather note.

I'm not that familiar with ambers and sometimes I find them to be too sweet,but this scent is gorgeous I think

Inees, how strange....Madame X is anything BUT an amber scent on my skin

I started the day in Profumum Fiore d'Ambra. The only three notes given are opium flowers, amber and spices. Fiore d'Ambra is an easy to wear and not overpowering amber fragrance. I have no idea what an opium flower smells like and which spices are at play here, since everything is very soft and well blended. However, of the amber based scents I own, this one is the most similar in feel and smell to real ambergris tincture.

P.S. I've decided that actually, I am kind of participating in S&S Saturday, given that Byzance becomes so ambery on me so quickly (the big soap from its opening mercifully passes in minutes and somehow I skip the part where this is supposed to chiefly be a floral oriental; Byzance just goes woody, vanillic, soft, musky with a hint of a floral idea in the somewhere). If someone sniffed me now and knew anything of perfume categories, they'd think I'd be wearing a vanilla-amber with a hint of floral.

This scent is meant to contain sandalwood - I could believe that it might even be actual sandalwood, rather than synthetic, given how it develops and how drawn to its dry-down I seem to be. I am concerned about the availability of the "good stuff" though, so it's likely that if this scent contains the real deal, it'll be the Aussie kind.

In time for amber sniff 'n' speak, I have a sample from LIB (thank you very much) of Parfumerie Generale L'Oiseau de Nuit. Here is a good description from LuckyScent.com:

Notes: cistus labdanum, liqueur of davana, benzoin, leather

"Cistus labdanum is the key ingredient, an amber-like, resinous scent thats like sweet, earthy honey. A swirling core of fruit and floral notes are set ablaze by the addition of benzoin and penetrating note of liqueur of davana. Very sweet and earthy all at once..."

Many different notes can be used in an amber accord: labdanum, vanilla, benzoin, balsam, tonka, coumarin, heliotropin, and chemicals that provide creamy notes. The choice depends upon which aspect of the amber is desired to be featured--edible? woody? sweet? animalic? floral? fruity? haylike?

In L'Oiseau de Nuit, labdanum and benzoin are chosen, creating a woody, sweet, slightly animalic note. Also featured prominently in this perfume is davana, an Indian flower that has been described as having notes of apricot, licorice, hay, or raisins. To me, its influence is decidedly fruity, like a very mellow pineapple. I'm not sure if the leather note is actually added (via castoreum or the like) because it is not terribly strong or realistic (bitter or smoky). I believe it comes, part and parcel, with the labdanum which has its own animalic tendencies. Overall, this is a strong, pleasant, somewhat fruity amber that is decidedly feminine and highly enjoyable for me because it smells like it contains a high percentage of naturals; therefore it has a deep, interesting scent even though it is not complex. The quality makes it three-dimensional and long-lasting.

Sooo funny. I wore Ambre d'Or last year for SnS (my first one!). After that wearing I had promptly forgotten what it smelled like (besides amber). This time - not so much fruit. More flowers. Not as much soap. More vanilla. Doesn't seem to have much sillage this time around - though I'm not sure it is a result of residual stuffiness from the crud or if the year-old decant is beginning to lose some of its ooomph.

I started off with L'Artisan's Ambre Extrême and was struck by the play-doh note right away, so I countered it on the other arm with Gaultier²: amber, musk, vanilla. Rich and warm, it will linger sweetly until tomorrow morning.

This has been the toughest SnS for me because this is very close to my favorite note/accord and I have a number of ambers I like very much.
Neil Morris Burnt Amber, SL Ambre Sultan, Jo Malone Dark Amber and Ginger Lily, Baldessarini Ambre, L'Occitane Ambre and Cerruti 1881 Amber.
So this was a choice for me but in the last couple of months I have found one amber that really stands out on me and that's:

Montale Blue Amber

There are others on the list above that have more complexity or use amber in more creative ways but when I am in the mood for amber this is the one I turn to. It is a striaghforward blast of amber that surrounds and envelops you in a bubble of scent. Over the rest of the day that amber mellows down to as the bubble contracts around you and finally the base kicks in and the vanilla wafts in to close the development of this one.

I frankly haven't done my *homework* to know some of the other scents in my wardrobe containing prominent amber notes, so I found one in which amber is spelled out in it's title.

I've always associated amber with scents I cannot wear (Bandit, Habanita). I am testing out Ambre Narguile and I am enjoying the cinnamon and resinous feel. It's eye-opening--maybe there are amber scents I CAN wear. I would have never pushed myself to try amber again without SnS this month, and without the generosity of our beloved Quarry. How fun!

.

It's my favorite time of year because I can wear my favorite fragrances & they smell their best.
Resins are favorites too, so I'm happy to participate today. There are so many wonderful scents to choose from. I thought I would wear a favorite of mine but one you don't hear a lot about on basenotes because it isn't in the directory. Kingsbury Fragrances is owned by a lovely aromatherapist, Dorothy McCall. I love her Classic Amber II which is not only chock full of delicious amber but contains three gorgeous natural jasmines. Although I am generally not a lover of florals, "real" jasmine is my exception.
This fragrance is deep, dark, rich & divine...not for the faint of heart, probably NOT a daytime scent and if I remember correctly, in very limited quantities. (Due to the jasmine.)

Amber is easy to love, for me (and a lot others too, I see).

I am wearing Ambre Precieux by MPG, for the very first time (from a sample - thanks Ron199).

Extremely woody and resinous when applied, I almost didn't smell the amber for the first few minutes - but then it arrived: puffy, soft and restrained. I wish it had a little more 'punch'. Of course, Ambre Sultan is so much more diffusive (and AS is one of my favorites for this reason), this seemed to hover only slightly higher in the 'air' than I would've liked. Nice and totally wearable. Just not as profound or engaging as I expected.

For those Blue Amber by Montale lovers - I sprayed some BA (from a sample) on my husband this morning - so he could participate in SnS too. He thought it smelled very formal, dark and almost industrial/petro-chemical oriented. Which suprised me. To me, BA is comfy, linear - a fluffy blanket of amber that just kind of sits there and goes into a fetal position. Funny, how different our perceptions are, isn't it?

I have tested Blue Amber a few times. The first couple of times, I found it to be sort of half-way between Ambre Precieux and Amber Sultan. However, the last time I tested it, it smelled metallic and harsh, as you say Mike, petro-chemical.

This is the perfect day for sampling ambers. It's cool and raining and I'm all wrapped in coziness...

On the right wrist, my first wearing of Ambre Sultan. It's not what I expected, which was a very dark and musky amber. Most of you probably already know it's a very herbaceous amber. It's quite beautiful, but, like many Serge Lutens I've tried so far, is fading away very rapidly - so much that I'm barely able to get the base. Next time I'll apply it more liberally.

On the left wrist, Amber Absolute. Now this is what I love! It starts out amber-vanilla with spiciness, and is now amber-labdanum with dry incense. I keep inhaling my wrist and exhaling with a "mmm ohmygod." It's magic, at least to me. I love that the 4ml Tom Ford sample is lasting so long, but this may soon be a full bottle purchase. I know I mustn't be too hasty, though; there are many other ambers I'd like to try.

I am wearing what has become my favorite comfort scent for bed. Ambre de Cabochard. I just love this scent! I am so suprised that it is so ignored. It is smooth and warm with just the right amount of sweetness and I just love going to sleep with it. I have had alot of perfume dreams wearing this. The best was when I had a bespoke made for me, I was so suprised that I dreamed that but it was great! Maybe someday in real life The notes are Top ~ ginger, cinnamon, mandarin orange & cardamom. Mid ~ cyclamen, tuberose & lily of the valley. Base ~ tonkabean, amber, patchouli, musk, vanilla & woodsy notes.

First fragrance I wore this morning was Violet Amber, a perfume oil made by Sensuous Beauty, which I bought in Whole Foods. The violet smells candied and sweet up top, and the amber glides in smelling salty and medicinal. It's pleasant but a strange combination. The fragrance oils in this perfume are carried in jojoba oil.

Next this morning, I tried Sarah Jessica Parker's Covet from a decant that Musse sent. I quite like this fragrance. It opens with a sharp green peppery geranium, with lemon, then lavender, which is a bit like anise, a sweetness that is supposed to be chocolate (though I can't identify it as rich chocolate, it smells more like white chocolate maybe) comes in, and the amber comes later, with some kind of musky base. The amber here isn't medicinal (different type of amber?). The lemon/amber combination in this one reminds me a little bit of Chanel's Allure, but friendlier and more charming, though with an edge. Interesting frag.

This afternoon, it's Calvin Klein's Obsession (women's version), which is currently one of my favorite fragrances. Asha sent me her mini that came in a coffret. Apparently, I'm not the only one enjoying Obsession again. I've been reading posts from others who are rediscovering it, or discovering it for the first time. I think this is the edp. It opens with orange, then immediately the amber comes in with its infirmary odor. But in Obsession the medicinal funk doesn't hang around, rather it is sweetened by vanilla and I'm not sure what all else. It's very nice. There might be some cinnamon or nutmeg. I'm really not sure. It's not foody, but quite sweet. The current ads with Eva Mendes for Secret Obsession would suit the old Obsession equally well - it's a sexy fragrance. I love Obsession for men, too, which I wore for last month's SnS.

I'm still learning to love amber. I've never much cared for it except in combination with vanilla and musk as a base note, which is pretty common in floral oriental fragrances. I'm not sure that a straight up salty metallic amber would be my thing - but there are a lot of ambers out there, and I'll be trying them out as I go. I love that amber, the fragrance note, smells like the color of amber, the resin fossil. Even the sound of the name...amber...suits them both.

I've had my sample of Blue Amber ready for days. But I've still got this horrible cold and I can't smell a thing. I gave it a go and seemed to smell something chemical, medicine-like behind the amber. But don't trust me. Better luck next month.

I finally remembered to to a Sniff 'n' Speak - I'm in the Gap's White Amber, one of my favourite bargain scents. Amber + incense + a whisper of vanilla.

I love Gap White Amber! I Think I'll wear it tonight Thanks!

I do hope you enjoy your sample, Quarry - I was lucky enough to score a 30ml bottle of the perfume and a big bottle of the bath oil (also divine!) on Ebay, after repeated failed attempts. It is lovely - and quite unique imo.

I have been wearing Ambre Sultan (inter alia) all day and it is still going strong 12 hours on. I don't normally do the more hardcore ambery scents - Jo Malone or EL Intuition or Five o'clock au Gingembre is normally as ambery as I like to go, but I am finding it interesting and impressive in an abstract way. I think I like my amber to hum along in the background rather than smack me round the gills with a resinous lump. And I know about these things, having been to a museum full of the stuff in Poland!

Today I am testing new ambers. I wear the standby's so often (Amber Russe, Ambre Precieux), I thought I would take this opportunity to give full wearings to some of the samples I haven't given much time yet.

Left arm: Hermes Hermessence Ambre Narguile
Notes: benzoin, labdanum, musk, vanilla, caramel, honey, sugared tonka bean, grilled sesame seeds, cinnamon, rum, coumarine and white orchids (from NowSmellThis)

Right arm: Ava Luxe Ambra Tibet (thanks to Pebbles!!!!)
Notes: Tibetan amber, cardamon, Madagascar vanilla, ambergris, civet (from Ava Luxe web site)

Both started similarly--light spice, vanilla, a touch of leather and powder. The opening of each was really enjoyable, and different from most things out there. Unfortunately, neither stayed in this sweet spot.

As I have mentioned many times before, my skin dries scents out. Both of these are supposed to be very sweet, I am sure. Reviews of AN in the directory talk about its foody, sweet, sometimes cloying qualities. Well, on me, the sweet is gone, and all I have left now is tart, dry baby powder. The top notes were gone in a flash, and the middle was bypassed, going straight to the powder. This happened within 1 hour. I applied liberally since the Hermessences are known to have poor longevity, but it did not seem to matter. For most of the rest of the drydown, I have something that smells very similar to a baby's butt. I can see how this would work with the right skin chemistry--it reminds me of Bond Chinatown and Montale Sweet Oriental Dream. It may be worth looking into it if those other fragrances are appealing.

This is the first time I have tried the Ava Luxe, and I had no idea what to expect. I applied liberally with this one also, since it didn't seem very strong right out of the vial. The opening was beautiful, and I actually prefer it to the Hermes. It is a bit less "staunch" in its minimalism, and yet retains so much charm and perhaps some innocence (if a scent can have such a quality). AT has a bit of a modern leather note similar to the sharp leather found in Ambre Russe and some of the new Parfumerie General leather scents. That seems to be just the nudge needed in the top notes to give it a bit more balance than the Hermes. I sure wish this stage lasted longer, but given the affordable price of Ava Luxe frags, maybe needing to refresh a couple times a day is not all that bad. The dry down is very straightforward--mostly a simple vanilla skinscent. But I must say it is lovely, not pretentious, and not a caricature of vanilla (which is often the case with strong vanilla scents).

Neither of these really compare to my "go to" ambers for complexity or longevity. Of what I have tried in the Hermessence line, I must question the price, given the behavior of some of the compositions. I think it is normal to expect better performance out of a high end frag, and I just have not been getting it with Hermes. For the Ava Luxe, I am reminded of Comme des Garcons--very straightforward, affordable, modern, and most important--not FUSSY. This is a line I will enjoy exploring more!

In common with many of you, I'm in Ambre Sultan today. I love the medicinal/herbaceous top notes, and it dries down to a warm, comforting base.

I wore Dark Amber & Ginger Lily Cologne by Jo Malone next.

Does anyone else get that blast of coconut, from the top notes. Surprising, to say the least.

It fades almost instantly, and turns into a metallic incense (Fans of Nu by YSL and Silver Factory by BN9, take note). Not smoky, just kind of humming along in the background behind the florals. And then a lot more florals. A very pronounced orchid and lily note predominates this scent. Not a dark scent (as the title might imply) rather bright actually.

Where the hell is the amber? On my skin, the amber is almost nonexistent.

Striking, different and unique for Jo Malone. But unwearable for me.

Many thanks to Asha for those great experiences/reviews! (Lemme know if you want samples of the divine Chinatown and SOD!!

Segueing into the evening in another "old standby" Voile d' Ambre...spiced up with Kouros (a sample from another divine - KBE.) K is a great spicy woodsy guy's frag that I love but can't carry off. Gives a nice jab to the gentle veil, however.

Up until several weeks ago, I wouldn't have had a single frag to try in this SnS. I've always been afraid of amber--I think my skin magnifies them until they're nausea-inducing. I've learned I can use gentle ambers, but strong ambers (Blue Amber, I'm talking to you) turn into scrubbers on me.

However, last month, the lovely Tovah gave me a generous sample of Fiore d'Ambra, one of the afore-mentioned gentle ambers. I agree with Lady in Black, it's very well blended. I don't get much in the way of floral and only gentle spices.

I tried this side-by-side with my cheapie fragrance oil Auric Blends Amber (which I found for $6 several weeks ago. Both are very nice, and I can see why people find amber to be a good comfort scent.

The edge goes to the Fiore d'Ambra as more nuanced. better-rounded,and less linear. But Auric is holding its own, which is surprising given the price differential.

This is my favorite Sniff 'n' Speak ever! (Quarry, was this originally your concept? I really look forward to these monthly threads!)

From reading today's entries, I've decided that AMBRE RUSSE, AMBRE PRECIEUX, and L'OISEAU DE NUIT (*love* that name!) will be added to my "want to sample" list.

Here's what I explored today, in a rare (for me) multiple sampling:

Sonoma Scent Studio AMBRE NOIR
Notes: Labdanum Absolute, Rose, Vetiver with Mitti, Oakmoss Absolute, Aged Indian Patchouli, Texas Cedarwood, Indian Sandalwood, Olibanum, Myrrh, Castoreum
This is silky smooth, deep and rich, with incense and dry woods. It's lovely but not quite "me" - too big and sophisticated, I think.

Hermessence AMBRE NARGUILE
Notes: Amber, Benzoin, Labdanum, Musk, Vanilla, Caramel, Honey, Sugared Tonka Bean, Grilled Sesame Seed, Cinnamon, Rum, Coumarine, White Orchids
Luscious gourmand, not as sweet as I'd expected. Reminds me of a certain chewy honeyed toasted sesame seed candy that I used to adore as a child. This one's moving up on my wish list, with the colder weather looming.

Jo Malone DARK AMBER & GINGER LILY
Notes: Black Cardamom, Pink Pepper, Ginger, Night Jasmine, Orchid, Water Lily, Rose, Black Amber, White Pepperwood, Leather, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Kyara Incense
I have a bottle of this one. It's a complex blend that to me is elegant and more intellectually than sensually pleasing. Haven't completely figured it out yet, but that seems to be part of its charm!

Montale BLUE AMBER
Italian Bergamot, Bourbon Geranium, Coriander, Patchouli, Vetiver, Amber, Vanilla
I keep sniffing and sniffing at this one - it's almost mesmerizing. There's an interesting element that reminds me of slightly smoking engine oil or gasoline (or both?), that to my surprised nose makes it all the more appealing. I think I'd call it sexy!

What wonderful timing!
I received a sample of the new Aerin Lauder Private Collection: Amber & Ylang Ylang today. Its a premoistened mini towelette on a folded card.
Notes are:
Top: Italian Bergamot, Geranium oil, Ylang Absolute
Middle: Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Cinnamon Ceylon (that's the way it's listed), Incense
Base: Amber, Sandalwood and Vanilla
From the little sample, I definitely want to try more of this. My chemistry amped up the vanilla but it's definitely good quality vanilla.

I discovered this thread only after applying Vetiver Oriental for a semi-formal brunch engagement. So I decided to wear PG's L'Ombre Fauve as my scent of the evening. This is a beautiful musked amber (or ambery musk) that is perfect for the cooler days and nights ahead.

Notes from luckyscent.com

amber, musk, woods, incense, patchouli

.... although I think that there is a hint of leather or castoreum that adds an animalic character to this fragrance.

I LOVE amber so today was a no brainer, almost. Too many to choose from but Chayas post reminded me of my decant of Geisha Noir. If you have not tried this and you like amber a little bit I highy recommend you try it immediately Notes are: Black Amber, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean ( a divine combination for me) it smells much more complex than 3 notes would lead you to believe. Now after my evening shower I have on the divine Hermes Ambre Narguile.

Today was a break in LA from some really nasty heat (nearly 100 all week); it was overcast and a bit showery. I wore Ambre Sultan and was feeling glorious in it's glottal ambery warmth..

Tonight I am testing another new amber, Montale Patchouli Leaves.

Notes: patchouli, oak, vanilla, amber, white musk, cystus ladaniferus (from luckyscent)

On first application (from a dabber), the scent is strong, sharp and rooty--the typical "head shop" patcouli. Within a few minutes, the sharpness fades, and the sweet vanilla and amber peeks out a bit. This scent is developing very quickly, and is taking on a foody and slightly metallic quality. There must be some spices in this frag, even though they are not listed. However, I have never smelled oak as a note, but I can see the resemblance of this strange foody, chewy metallic scent to the smell of oak when it is being milled in the woodshop. Needless to say, the quick development means the "head shop" quality becomes much more subdued, and the woodyness of the oak (and probably the labdanum) blend with the patchouli to balance it. I smell what seems to be that sharp leather note from Ambre Russe and Bois 1920 Real Patchouli (and several Parfumery Generale scents), too, although it is not listed.

The development seems to have slowed a bit after the first few minutes, and PL is settling into what I hope will be an earthy patchouli amber--sweet, sour, bitter, woody and resinous. I am worried about the longevity given how quickly it has changed, but that remains to be determined in a longer wearing.