Top note: Aldehyde Complex, Bergamot Oil, Galbanum, Gardenia, Peach
Middle note: Carnation, Jasmin, Jonquil, Lily of the Valley, Orris, Rose
Base note: Amber, Castoreum, Myrrh, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Vetiver
Top Note: Galbanum, Hyacinth
Middle Note: Rose, Jasmine
Base Note: Oakmoss, Patchouli
This time, I'm wearing an older EdT formulation. (I'm not sure if it's the original 1970 version, but it's definitely pre-2007.) I can safely say that this version is more complex than the new one, if not as "clean" or "brisk." It is very obvious to the nose that the top note is more complex right from the moment of application; the gardenia and peach notes support the other opening factors quite clearly. The drydown is also more evidently elaborate, where the myrrh and animalic notes especially stand out and strengthen the last chord. The middle still seems to have a hyacinth note, but it is considerably denser with the carnation and additional white florals, particularly the green-tinged lily-of-the-valley. The orris also adds an earthiness that is no longer there in the 2007 version. Nothing I say here is meant to dis that newer scent; it is beautiful and well-made in its own right brighter, cleaner, brisker, altogether more suited to the "modern" taste. But the older scent is a green chypre in the classic mold, comparable to Chanel No. 19 and others in that style.